₦airaland Forum

This Saturday I was able to pick up the rest of my items for my upcoming DIY (Coolant flush and Power Steering rebuild). Here are some pics

BluStreak: Ah! I have always been a DIY fan. Just that lately I am getting lazy due to too many things on a brothers hand. And did I pay dearly for it? Yes unfortunately. I had to change a whole engine I6 E320 American Version just because my transmission compensator oil seal gave way and the engine started sucking oil into the manifold and caused the car to smoke, mechanics claimed the engine has packed up and suggested a complete engine change due to the lack of original piston rings and other repair accessories. After the engine change the smoke continued they then discovered a certain hose is sucking up the transmission fluid into the engine and decided to block it. The result was a troubled gear shift and slips.

I eventually consulted oga google and it led me to an MB forum where I discovered the problem that cost me over a 100K was just as a result of the transmission modulator that would have been replaced with less than N30k with labour or a lot less with DIY.

Lesson learnt. Any issue now or in the future will go thus: Google > DIY before consulting a mechanic.

I recall January this year on my way returning to Lagos after the Xmas holidays, the oil change light on my 07 EOD came on. I panicked! I got a safe placed parked, checked the oil level and texture, after ascertaining they were ok, I continued my journey. Returning here, I had an oil change and the mechs couldn't get the light to go off. They said I will have to take it for a computer reset. I googled and bingo, I found the solution: turn ignition on, hold down this button, press that button and press that other button and capish! It was done. I cleared the oil change warning.

So my peeps DIY first o seriously.

I concur, 100%. It's amazing what our mechanics claim to know sometimes. And there's nothing more annoying like trying to guide a mechanic on a repair and he's like...You can't teach me my job

Still expecting ordered gallons of OEM Honda coolant and Power steering fluid to kick off. Should be picking up these fluids tomorrow. Watch this space

As I prep for my next DIY(As listed in the 1st post) here are some of the parts which I got from the states:
1. Automatic tensioner
a. Front view

b. Rear view


2. Power steering repair kit


3. Serpentine belt

redcliff: I remember having issues with my fuel pump and i changed it about four times with the help of mechanics, yet it was still giving the same problems, humming sound and jerk. I just vex go ladipo and i bought a new fuel pump assembly and changed it myself and till tomorrow, the car is still intact, no single sound and my temperature needle stop functioning and when i went to the rewire omg, this man almost dismantled my dashboard and still did not get it fixed. I had to stop him when i found out he was going too far.. I just googled what could be the cause and i found out it was my temperature sensor and when i changed it, whola! it stopped.

Thumbs up! There is really a dearth of good mechanics in Naija, especially outside the big cities.
I still remember during the time I was having the power steering noise, my mechanic told me "Odikwa ka odibago weak". He recommended replacing it.
I did the DIY with a part that costs less than $2 and its been 2 years and the noise has never returned. It always pays to just do a little google search on the problems you notice on your car before heading to any mechanic.
Team DIY

Hello everyone,

This tread is for car DIY enthusiasts to share their DIY history or list planned ones. I guess (Siena's will fill the whole Nairaland )

Here a list of my past DIYs (on 2003 Accord 4cyl, LX, US spec)
1. Fuel pump assembly change (2011)
2. Oil and filter changes (Every 3 months)
3. Power steering o-ring change( this was to fix a whine that occurs each time the car was cold) 2011
4. Serpentine belt replacement. (2013)
5. Transmission fluid replacement (2013)
6. Throttle body cleaning (As needed)
7. Replacement of AC relay (2011)

Planned DIYs
1. Replacement of Automatic tensioner
2. Power Steering rebuild (replacement of seals. Current one leaks from one of the seals)
3. Coolant flush.

As you list yours remember to state the vehicle and trim. You never know you may solve a fellow Nairalander's problem.

mecussey: piyke...in Owerri, the signal was recently boosted a whole lot. Incase if you stay at ikenegbu or World bank area, you may have to remove the gain to limit interference and strong signal.

How do I do this?

Oga mecussey and all the Gurus, I currently have CTL with the usual antenna but it freezes a lot lately. Adjusting the antenna position only relieves the cracking temporarily.
I also happen to have a 60cm multiTV dish. Can I use this dish to track CTL (in combination with my CTL (trend) decoder). Will this reduce the freezing?
I am in Owerri. Thanks in advance

lonelydora: ContAct Nairaland "luvinhubby". Real name is Mr. RowlAnd on 08039121412.

Thanks a lot. I've reached out to him, unfortunately the stuff is unavailable. Anymore links anyone?

Okay I'm trying to buy the original honda OEM coolant, but haven't come across it yet (Base:Owerri). I plan to do a radiator flush and refill with the original stuff. I know those that stock the OEM Toyota/Nissan ones in Enugu, but sadly the same guy doesn't have that for Honda.

Does anyone have the link for any person that sells this? I'll do the job DIY .

Thanks in advance.

I drove o. Initially, I did the journey in two segments, later when I mastered the act of pulling it off in one day, I did it as previously stated a good number of times.

One thing is clear in all of this, THE UK IS STRUGGLING.

[/quote]

JaaizTech: update: P0420 code is back. Hmmm sad, but car still drives better than before.

@nissan do you happen to have bando serpentine belts for accord 2003 2.4 litres engine.

Nissparts I'm also interested in the OEM serpentine belt for a 4cyl, 2003 accord LX. If you have it you can shoot me a quote for delivery to owerri via PM thanks.

Signed boldly in black. Seun please glue this to the front page for as long as it would take.

This brings to mind the level of reasoning of most our senators. Utter rubbish

I really don't see the point of a golden smartphone With the frequent release of upgraded versions the very expensive golden smartphone becomes obsolete.

Imagine having a golden IPhone 3 in 2013. I guess for those whose aim is to flaunt, this would be fine. For me all I need is a phone that is smart. Period.

joeluv: Enugu underground link road in progress

Joeluv thanks a lot for your pics in this thread. This Underground links to where?

I de miss Enugu die, just managing Owerri :'

[quote author=nadia_SA]Well i grew up in a household which lived 90% take-a-ways and the other 10% my elder sis use to cook..

My mom a full time pastor so she hardly cook just buy buy and had no time to teach me how to cook at an early age. I'm older now(19) and live away from my home, have my own little family..

My problem is every time i cook i BURN my food always (first thought it was cause i'm on bbm/wasapp, but even if i stay in the kitchen it burns somehow .

If it doesn't burn it doesn't taste good at all at all. I've tried adding spices and all but it still doesn't taste any better! I really do not what to do now ... I want my food to taste like other women's food not like i was just playing and wasting food...[/quote]Do you have at least 1 friend who cooks good food? If yes, fix up a couple of days together to learn common recipes, one at a time. This should help you.
Nobody was born knowing how to cook. Anyone who wants to learn badly enough will become a good cook.

cretin: ok good u fixed it. you sounded like you knew a bit abt cars....guess thats why we assumed that u wud hv checked the basic things first...like filter/plugs

also go a step further by changing the a/c air filter...its inside ur glove box or pigeon hole as per naija sl;angs

Thanks a lot. My dear I'm learning o, trying to know my car better. I've started doing my servicing and other minor tasks myself. I purchased a Hyanes service manual for 2003-2011 accords. Just doing it for the fun of it. I changed my plugs in December 2012 with OEM Iridium NGK plugs so I didn't think plugs would be the issue.

Happy I'm getting better...

miccodb: I've fixed dis problem  an EOD b4 n I can guarantee ur vehicle has some DTCs jus probably ur mechanics have killed d bulb. From ur explanation its gotta be ur fuel or air lines. Ur mixtures don't add up quick enuff when ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ crack open the gas. Whers ur location? I can troubleshoot dis for ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊. But d last tym I fixed dis d problem was as simple as a low oil pressure. Funny ryt?

Already fixed. No codes at all, I have a scanner that accesses powertrain, transmission, ABS and SRS.

Also all the bulbs come on when you turn the ignition.

Siena: ^^^ Why would you "clean" your air filter element, instead of replacing it at the prescribed intervals??

You know you don't always find original products in Nigeria. Like I mentioned above I tried replacing it, but just couldn't get an original product until I got to learn of this guy that stocks OEM Honda products.

Once, I replaced it with a fake one and my MPGs tanked. Well from now will always replace at the recommended times.

sultaan: Stopp right there you mean they were talking of the Maf and you never checked the air filter!

The MAF is between the throttle body and filter carbon/oil builds up on the throttle body, the MAF before it gets to the filter.
Either too much oil in crankcase or bad pvc valve

Don't get me wrong, I guess I didn't put it well. I wasn't saying the filter was soaked in oil. I was just saying the filter had gone beyond the usual dry dust that can be blown out using compressed air.

Since I bought the car (2009), I've never changed the filter, I've just been using compressed air to clean. I last cleaned it in December 2012, Infact I changed and reverted back to the original after I noticed a drop in MPGs with the new fake one. The filter has tried as its been overdue for changing according to the service manual.

Also, there was no deposits on the upfacing side of the filter which proves that everything was coming from outside air.

My oil is at the perfect level as I know that too much oil in the crankcase can damage the engine. The car also maintains the same oil levels in between my 3 monthly services, I've never have to top up in between.

The culprit was my clogged Air cleaner element known by local mechanics as "engine filter"

I got into Enugu this morning and drove straight to Enugu mall in search of WD-40, I found it at game however, after reading what was on the can, I decided not to use it on the MAP sensor.

Next I went to my mechanic @ EN, by this time the symptom was now occurring when revving the car in the stationary position.

Once I demonstrated the fault for him, he went straight to my intake housing and pulled out the intake hose, to my relief the car revved as normal. The old one had oily dirt on it. I replaced the part and the rest they say is history.

I couldn't believe the overall improvement in performance, acceleration is more prompt and previously lost power restored. It also sounds deeper when accelerating and my MPG is much improved.

I thoroughly tested the car today on my trip back to Owerri...loads of power

I wish to say a very big thank you to Siena, Ikenna, nissparts, lonelydora and everyone who gave their time to resolving this. You guys rock!

GOOD NEWS

Problem Solved!!!!

I repeat Problem Solved!!!

Details to follow shortly....

cretin: REALLY!..WHAT DO U WANT TO do with wd -40?.
if u r in ph go to ikoku..its there..or parkshop ph/lenu shopping mall abacha rd...
but pls o...dont use wd 40 inplace of maf cleaner.

Siena: WD-40 is oily, and will certainly poison the hot film in a good MAF. It's okay for cleaning electrical contacts, but for MAF / MAP, that's a no-no.

nissparts: I'm sorry I'm lost.
What do you want to do with WD-40?
I hope it's not for cleaning the MAP/MAF sensor?

sultaan: WD-40 is a penetrating oil, you might need electrical contact cleaner like a crc maf cleaner 05110

nissparts: I'm sorry I'm lost.
What do you want to do with WD-40?
I hope it's not for cleaning the MAP/MAF sensor?

You guys are all on point. Saw the WD-40 at game but then when I read the instructions it clearly Saud it leaves a film which isn't good for a MAP.

Ikenna just confirmed the absence of WD-40 at shoprite. heading to game...

Ikenna351: I arrived Enugu this afternoon, drove to Shoprite and found the WD-40 out of stock. Well, will try the Abuja Shoprite when i get back.

Ikenna.

Thanks for the headsup, leaving Owerri in the next 20 mins. I'll check to see if game has in their auto section. Will buzz you soon.

Ikenna351: Replacing parts at random is not always ideal, because you could get more frustrated when you dont get results as you replace parts. Lol! Trust me, it can be very frustrating.

Back then, before i got my 505 v6 Electrical workshop manual, comprising of wiring schematics and sensor values of the car, i would take the car to APO, asked them to bring used parts of the sensors or components i want to test or change. I would swamp them in, like 4 or 5 of them. If i see any improvement, i would ask for the amount. If they say 5k, i would price it N700., knowing that they wouldnt sell to me at that price. I would them leave them and seek for a new one (if thats what i intend to buy anyway). My point is, i was using used parts to confirm if my sensor or component is still ok or the faulty. Nice tip! Lol! But when i got the manual, i now check the values with my DMM. If the DMM read below factory value (resistance, volts or both), i would know the parts would need to be changed.

In your case, even if you apply my old method of diagnosis, it maynot work since you will need to drive the car to know if there will be any change or not. Hmm! Which way now?

If i may ask, where your MAF positioned? Is it mounted directly on the intake manifold or mounted elsewhere, but connected to intake manifold via a vacuum line?

Am asking the above question because, if its mounted directly on the intake manifold, you can pull it out, clean it and put it back. Some people have claimed they cleaned theirs with Carb cleaner and it started working again. But some will argue that carb cleaner will be too harsh for the MAP, since its made of plastics. Here is proper fluid for cleaning MAP, the MAF or throttle body cleaner, but where will you see them in Nigeria? But you never know, you may find such in Shoprite. At least, i was surprised to see WD-40, meant for cleaning electrical connectors or contacts, etc. I saw it at Enugu Shopite last Xmas, 30/12/2012. You can try shoprite first.

Then if the MAP is not mounted on the intake, check the condition of the vacuum line, right from the MAP sensor to the intake. If any leak or crack is detected,replace it. If there is carbon build up inside the hose, clean it out and put it back. It may put life back into the non-functioning MAP sensor.

The speed sensor in Peugeots controls only the speedomter, variable ratio steering and ABS in some models. Unless Asian cars have Vehicle speed sensor and also speed sensor separately, i wouldnt know.

I will be in Enugu too this weekend, but i dont know if i will have enough time to go round the town.

Ikenna

Thanks a lot for the advice Ikenna, my MAP is just beside the throttle body. Never knew shoprite would have fluid for cleaning electrical components. Infact it was because I know carb cleaner isn't good for electrical components like MAF that made me think of replacing it.

Well, once I come into Enugu I'll hola you. One thing I like about this challenge is that I havent given the car to any mechanic tear apart. I'm learning.

I did a test drive yesterday with no change. So I'll proceed to troubleshoot the MAP sensor as recommended by Siena. I've inspected the intake hose and made sure everything is fitted tight.

Should be at Enugu by the weekend to see if I'll pick up a new MAP sensor at coal camp. I've also read that a malfunctioning VSS can cause similar symptoms. will explore that route too.

Still need your assistance with any info you feel will be beneficial...

Siena: Not every MAF issue triggers a CEL. Even if it's still within spec, it could still be faulty. Remember, voltage rises and falls with airflow.

You need to get it tested. A diagnostic tool with measuring block capability. May need to be a dedicated Honda OBD platform. Voltage tests can also be carried out with a digital multimeter. Do you know what make it is? If it's a BOSCH MAF, I can tell you how to test it.

Most Japmobile's run DENSO, Hitachi, Mitsubishi etc MAF's though, and I'm not conversant with the pin-outs on these.

Ikenna351: Some MAFs have IAT inside them. Since yours have separate IAT, I would suspect it has MAP instead, since you are saying yours doesnt have MAF, and I doubt if it has AFM.

So, I wouldnt rule out AFM, MAF or MAP yet, since they could give similar symptom when they fail too.

But it got me thinking. If your injectors are clogged, you should be experiencing hesitation, misfiring or rough idling. Hmm! But then, you said the problems started after introducing bad fluid in the fuel system and combustion chambers. That shouldnt affect MAP then. Anyway, if there is no improvement by tomorrow or next, then do as Siena suggested. Look for the MAP and swap in another and see if any improvement. If yours is the type that can be cleaned, do so and put it back and check for result. If its MAF, unplugging it will make the car run better, if the MAF is faulty. Am not sure about MAP, but you can try that.

By the way, have you checked to be sure you dont have any vacuum leak?

Ikenna.

Thanks again guys. It has a MAP just as Ikenna suggested. wasn't able to do a test drive today, it rained massively today so no speeding.

Siena its a Denso MAP, once I do a test drive that isn't successful I'll proceed to troubleshoot the MAP as suggested.

In also forgot to mention that I read Livedata from the car, before I added the injector cleaner, I focused on fuel trims STFT never showed the car was running lean even at high RPMs so that tells me the fuel pump is still good. It never ran rich too. fuel trims typically lay within +-5%

elektra80: My 4 cyl 2005 Honda Accord behaves funny sometimes. When i start in the morning it works normal, revs high for a few secs and then gets to normal after about 45-60 secs.. the rpm stays on 1,000. While driving it works normal and when I match the brake it starts reving high at 1,200 rpm. Sometimes it even moves forcefully by itself while I'm matching the brake on bad roads. When I put it in neutral the rpm goes to 1,500 and when I put in park it goes as high as 2,000 rpm. This leads to high fuel consumption. I know this is not normal, it doesn't happen all the time, sometimes its very smooth but I hate it when it revs really high and rough. it just happened again today while driving back from church. I just started it now and it works normal while parked. I'm afraid when I drive again this would happen. Pls I need help from the professors.

I believe you need to clean your throttle body. Is your check engine light on?

Today I added Mobil Injector cleaner as suggested by Ikenna. Would drive it for some days before attempting another test, this should provide enough time to clean any clogging in the fuel system. I've also used this opportunity to clean the fuel filter. Fingers crossed...