₦airaland Forum

Next, you would need to remove the fasteners and bolts beneath the front bumper. The plastic fasteners are marked in red while the bolts(4) are marked in blue. 2nd pic is a different view

After removing the fasteners on the top and lifting off the plastic covering, your car should look like this...

Next you would have to remove plastic fasteners and bolts, both above and beneath the front bumper. The fasteners are marked. First the ones above...

To remove, use the flat tip screwdriver to pry the inner portion of the fastener and then the whole piece.

Please never work under a vehicle supported by jacks alone! I know of a patient that died from working underneath a car supported by a jack. Unfortunately, the jack failed and...You can imagine. Enough said.

First Since you would be removing the front bumper, you will need to jack up your 2003 Honda Accord.

First, to bring down your headlight for cleaning you will need to remove your front bumper (Do not fear, its not hard!). In my case the dust covers on the right front headlight has been missing and dust had collected and made the light less desirable

I had been postponing but finally decided to take the bull by the horn!

Lets go there!

This DIY is for all those who have dirty headlights on account of missing dust covers i.e. due to these missing seals, dust finds its way into the interior of your headlights turning it brown. It does not address the cleaning of "yellowness" on the glass itself

Stay tuned for the complete DIY procedure I love DIY!


Tools Required (Must)

1. Flat screwdriver
2. 10" wrench or spanner
3. Jack
4. Support stands

Optional required tools
1. Replacement bumper fasteners (You will understand why as we go on)

Recently completed DIYs apart from previously listed:

1. Fuel filter cleaning.
2. Servicing of right front wheel brake calliper: A worn seal was leaking brake fluid that made the handbrake light come on despite the handbrake not being engaged. Brought down the calliper, took it to Camp (Enugu) where the offending seal was replaced then I remounted it and bled the system.
3. Adjusted handbrake height (4-7 clicks): I have noticed that Accords unlike Toyota's need more frequent adjusting of drum brakes.
4. Inspected and cleaned spark plugs.
5. Attempted replacing PCV valve: Can you imagine, got a Berck and Arnley PCV valve (From US) for the I4 03 Accord and while fixing it the part broke on tightening. I just cleaned the old one with petrol and put it back. I am going to leave a 1-star review for the part on Amazon from where I bought it . Thank God the old one still rattles.
6: Cleaned EGR valve

Still plan the following:
1. Transmission filter replacement
2. Change brake fluid
3. Replace air cleaner element with OEM (Part already arrived)

davo3286: I am a passionate 'DIYer'.

2007 Honda Accord SE, 2.4L I4; Alabaster Silver Body with Black Interior - Sold
1. Changed disc rotors and brake pads
2. Repaired power steering pump. Fixed whine noise on power steering pump by replacing o-ring
3. Changed engine seating
4. Changed engine oil, cabin air filter, engine air filter and oil filter
5. Flushed and changed coolant
6. Did resonator delete
7. Installed Air Filter Minder device
8. Did underside & underhood routine inspection after a major travel & after the rainy season...walkaround inspection of car body, tires & wheels

2010 Honda Accord EX-L, 3.5L V6; Pearl Black body with Black Leather Interior - Current
1. Changed ATF
2. Change engine oil, carbin air filter, oil filter and topped up coolant with distilled water
3. Did resonator delete
4. Replaced entire airbox (air intake filter and box) with K&N Cold Air Intake System...will upload picture if required
5. Install Air Filter Minder device - Planned
6. Replace OEM front brake discs with Aftermarket Drilled and Slotted Discs - Planned

**Wash engine after any major travel and after each service (oil change) to remove spilled oil and keep engine clean and looking good
**Take to the pit (lube bay) for lubrication, general routine inspection - body, tires, wheels, lights & underside inspection after any major travel
***Polish interior (seats, dash, side walls) once in a month
****Polish body once quarterly

PS: ALWAYS USE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED OIL AND FLUIDS and believe me your car engine will be happier.

Please upload the pics for our benefit

9icetoo: I agree that anything that isnt desired in a mixture is an impurity. However, lead does not decrease the octane rating of petrol. Before the eighties, petrol was sold with lead in it to prevent detonation> The lead content actually acted as an octane booster. The advent of catalytic converters made lead in petrol undesirable cos of the negative effect it had on the expensive catalytic converters. Other chemical compounds were formulated to boost the octane rating of petrol. Unleaded fuel is not high octane fuel as you believe. Almost all the petrol sold today the world over is unleaded except for very few petrol stations around the world (i don't think nigeria is included) who sell leaded petrol and they clearly mark it out as leaded so you don't mistakenly put the leaded petrol into your modern car. In fact, the dispensing nozzle on a leaded fuel pump will not fit into the petrol receptacle of your modern vehicle. Unleaded fuel is not for high performance cars alone let alone being only for S series or AM whatever. Higher octane petrol are needed in engines with high compression ratios. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the chance of pre-ignition and detonation which could be catastrophic for the engine. Lastly, the higher octane petrol does not supply the oxygen for combustion; atmospheric air drawn into the combustion chamber through your air intake manifold does.
Honda and Acura cars often have engines with high compression ratios sometimes greater than 10:1. With compression ratios this high, low octane petrol will pre-ignite from the immense pressure in the cylinders. The engine management system detects this as knocks and retards the ignition timing which leads to a loss in power. This effect is what the OP noticed. It goes away once you fill up again with a higher octane petrol. Toyotas seem to be immune from this effect because most toyota engines run with moderate compression ratios. My 1.6 litre honda has a higher compression ration ratio than my toyta camry so i am particularly careful about where i buy my fuels for the honda. I refuel the honda at only Total filling stations.

You just upped my knowledge. Good stuff

NumberOne2: So only a link could solve the issue of Honda starting at 1,500rpm?
Mine idles at 1,500 and takes less than 4 minutes to warm up so I guess those that do less than 1,500 on cold start should take longer time to warm up. They both probably end up consuming the same amount of petrol to warm just that one takes LESS TIME.

I have seen cars that idle for up to 10 mins before warming which is just crap. This especially occurs if the THERMOSTAT has been bypassed by connecting the fans directly to the battery.

I concur. My Honda warms up before you can say jack, but I've noticed that my wife's corolla takes like forever (compared to the Honda) for the temp gauge to get to normal.

Ikenna351: Are you sure that 1500 rpm at cold start is your car spec? Because none of my Lions have ever gone beyond 1k rpm at cold start, no matter how cold coolant or weather is. My ES9J4S would gradually drop and stays at 600 - 650 rpm, while my ZN3J will drop to 750 rpm and stays there.

Unless Honda injection/ignition system is that different, anyway.

Ikenna

Its perfectly normal see link below
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22358

chiebube: Thats cool. But for your ride to rise up to 1500rpm on cranking, i think its a bit very odd. At most it should be 1200/1300rpm.

1500 is right on spec, it then gradually drops to 750-800rpm once the car reaches operating temperature

lomomike: No, the OP should mix the palm oil with salt and pour the mixture into his fuel tank. It works best

Siena: Palm oil works better.

You guys just cracked me up now. lol

It's a pity but its real, for some time now (about 6weeks) my 03' Accord had been having starting issues. It was quite classical; first start for the day would be sluggish i.e. instead of the RPM rising to 1500 immediately, it would hover at 500rpm for like 2-3 secs before rising to the usual 1500. This would also repeat itself once the car was left for a long time. It later progressed to stalling on first start and then upon second crank it would start as normal as though it had no problems.

The most amazing thing in this was that there was no CHECK ENGINE light!!!

I have been a steady customer of NNPC Mega station, the main one in Owerri.

In the course of my DIY attempts at fixing the issue, I had pulled out the fuel pump assembly and cleaned it thoroughly. Whilst on that I found some drops of water and tiny black masses (gum like in consistency). After this fix I poured in some injector cleaner, had some relief for about 2 weeks but the problem crept back.

It was my mechanic who suggested that I drive the current tank to reserve and then add another fuel injector cleaner. That I did and for 2days now the car has started in the mornings instantly without any hesitation.

For now, no NNPC (Mega) for me

Any clue at all

Anyone

Just came across these guys and I'm wondering if any of us has used them. If so how was the experience?

www.abspares.com

Earlier last year I had a funny fault which I initially feared to be the transmission but alas a simple change of the air cleaner element ie Engine air filter solved this. Do rule this out.

Rochas - Disorganised

[quote author=prudence.smart]Hello Piyke, is that the steering pump? or could it be liken to the steering pump in Benz[/quote]Yes its the power steering pump. I guess the procedure for a Benz would be different. The procedure here is strictly for the 2003-2007 4cyl accords

ibro360: pls wer can i get d o-ring of honda accord 2005 V6,the power steering pump makes a whining noise every morning and d fluid reservior hav small bubbles.

To further nail the diagnosis, does the whine increase when you turn the steering to any side at startup?
Does the whine reduce after the car has heated up?
Does the sound return with full force after the car has cooled down and you start it again no matter the time of day?

If the answer to all these questions are yes then the most likely cause is PS inlet o-ring (This is the hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump. loosen the size 10 bolt and you'll find the o-ring). I got mine from the US but I'm sure if you take it to a parts market you should be able to get it. Best of luck. It would not take up to 10mins to replace

adanny01: How i wish this procedure will apply for my Toyota prado 2006. The whining sound is unbearable at the moment and the steering fails most times during idle and driving with very low RPM (less than 1000rpm).

I feel the pump is also causing the steering rack some problems as i notice leakage of the oil around the ball joints of the steering arm. The leakage is not alarming but the oil has suddenly turn almost black.

I would have loved to fix the pump to start working again instead of buying a new one.

Also, i wish to know the effect of using a different tire specification other the recommended by the car manufacturer. I have a Honda accord 2003 LX with tyre recommendation of 205/65/15. I wish to purchase the factory alloy of 2003-5 Honda which is a 16inch with probable tire size of 205/60/16.

Fixing the whine you describe may actually be a more simple procedure than this. First are you using the recommended PS fluid for your Prado? Also does the PS fluid in the PS reservoir foam? If it does, that would mean air is entering the system through somewhere. I recommend you Google the problem, search through Toyota fora to see what the most likely cause is. I once had a whine some years back which took less than 5 mins to fix. Good luck.

For the changing the tires of your EOD, I guess it would increase fuel consumption. I can't really say if it would have anymore effects. I've heard Sienna dissect the effect of tires on cars well. I guess he'll be of help on this

uchedydy: Hello house,

plz i really need advice, am hoping to get a car soon, i mean immediately, i have searched the internet for cars in nigeria, found a ford fussion 2008, i have gotten in touch with the seller and he said its direct tokunbo, and that one good tyn abt it is that its parts are available becos the camry 2006(big fool)'s parts fits into it.
Am ready to get a car nw, bt i dnt want to get into problem, as i dnt know anytyn abt the car in terms of economy, fuel consumption and durability and offcourse the claims of the seller abt the parts.
Plz anyone who knows abt this car shd enlighten me abeg.

Again is 1.6m for a 2008 ford too cheap thus shd put me on enquiry?

Plz help me my people, kindly assist me with information.

In buying a used car, always make sure you have a brilliant trusted mechanic accompany you. They would greatly improve your chance of getting a good car. I did this when I bought mine and even went for a spirited test drive with the mech.

After your are done with this procedure, you should have some air in the PS system because of the hoses disconnected. Follow the outlined steps to bleed the air out of the PS system.

1. Start the car
2. Allow it to idle for some minutes
3. Observe the level of the PS fluid in the reservoir, if low add fluid to bring it up to the low mark.
4. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times. NB: You should not hold the steering at either of the locks as this can damage the PS pump even during normal everyday driving.
5. Observe the reservoir and top off to the min mark if needed.
6. Allow the car to idle for some minutes
7. Top of the reservoir to the upper mark

This procedure drives air out of the system. Go for a test drive to confirm all is well.

To reinstall into the vehicle follow the opposite of the already outlined steps. Attached is a pic of the finished job. Been driving for days with no leaks whatsoever.

To replace parts 9 and 10. Remove the roll pin, then remove the Cam ring. Note the indent on the cam ring and the outer case where the roll pin slips into. With the cam ring out, remove parts 9 and 10 which are 2 tiny strips of rubber and plastic. The flexible one is the rubber seal while the harder one is the slipper seal.
Replace both seals first the rubber then the slipper on top of each other in the groove as you found it.
Then replace the cam ring and align the indents on it and the outer case so that the roll pin can slip in. replace the pump housing cap with its new o-ring. Then attach the back plate of the pump and tighten the 4 bolts.

Now set the pump pulley side down and remove the 4 size 12 bolts on the back of the pump. Once these are off, remove the back plate, this would give you access to seals 15 and 17. Seal 17 was the main culprit and it was flattened as well. See the comparison

Remove the Pump housing cap. Its a #19 bolt. Not having a vise made this a bit of a struggle, nevertheless, I was able to hold down the pump with one hand while I removed the bolt with my #19 lug nut spanner. Remove the o-ring on the bolt and replace. Mine was flattened and I could appreciate how it wouldn't hold all the fluid in when i compared it to the new one.

I replaced numbers 9, 10, 15, 17 & 18....

o-rings 15 and 17 were the causes the leakages that I was having.

Resuming...

To begin kindly see the exploded view of the PS pump. Got this on the internet

sultaan: Its good you are getting your hands dirty a little, not because you can't afford to pay a mechanic but the desire to get it right with a better understanding how it works.

I hope you got a Honda power steering fluid because if you use any other fluid it will boil.

So you know there will be a couple of failures in the west some rebuilt unit cost $60 so they just replace.

I know getting to know different parts of the vehicle you will not be surprised by any failure you already know the condition of each system.

On point. Thanks a lot. Yeah, I was able to get the OEM Honda PS fluid