Fostercat:


Sent

radautoworks:


Not a problem. We carry conventional oil too. What weight do you need? We have them all.

CityNGR:

10W-40

radautoworks:


http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgName=CQO&partNumber=CQ640-5QT N9,736 in stock

CityNGR:

Doesn't match a 2001 Mercedes Benz e320

radautoworks:


Your asked for 10w-40...

http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgName=CQO&partNumber=CQ940-5QT N16,728 in stock

CityNGR:

Doesn't match a 2001 Mercedes Benz e320

CityNGR:

Yes I want 10W40 high mileage engine

dru23:


Thank me later I do have the 0w40 ...

CityNGR:

I rather buy 70W 90 oil from radautoworks... Yes!!

dru23:


My brother please Google is your friend... if you what to know the type oil to use on your car .. Google Mobil oil. Com ..very simple .. It will tell you what type of oil is best for your car ....
And whatever product you use ,please Google and read the reviews on it ..don't just buy for the sake of buying...

Below is the oil that I use for my car ....Mobil oil extended performance oil ....better than most oil in the market.. Again google is your friend... if you are interested let me know

3kay945:


Do you have the mobile 5W30? What your location and how much?

radautoworks:
Don't know the fluid specs for your car? Give the. VIN number and receive full specs for your car like below.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EibrCvLdWGM

VolvoS60:


OP,

Interesting thread.

First question: I have some enquiries about a couple of 4wd Toyota vehicles - a V8 Toyota Land Cruiser (2008 model year, 2UZ FE engine, 4.7L) and a V8 Toyota Sequoia (2008 model year, 3UR FE engine, 5.7L). While the Sequoia was built for the US market and bought there, this particular Land Cruiser was bought locally. There are usually no problems buying US aftermarket parts or OEM for the Sequoia but the Land Cruiser owner cannot confidently buy US aftermarket parts (or even OEM) because the vehicle VIN is not recognized. All too often, its a trial and error thing and he ends up with the wrong parts. Very frustrating. Any suggestions? what type of parts? Motor or suspension? Motor should match but suspension usually matches Highlander or 4runner especially if Prado

Second question: We checked the transfer case fluid of both vehicles some months ago and the fluid seemed ok - no darkening or visible signs of degradation – it was clear that both vehicles are very rarely used in low range (4LO). The transfer case fluid has never been changed - in 11 years. Would you still recommend a drain and refill? 11 years is a long time after all… don't recommend if low mileage. Some cars go lifetime

Third question: During our checks a drain and refill of the front and rear differential oil for both vehicles was done. Unlike the transfer case fluid, the diff oil 'looked' very dirty and we felt it was necessary to drain and refill. Quite straightforward although finding the right oil was quite a challenge and we had to settle for Pure Guard Gear oil (85W 90, GL-5). Toyota recommends some weird OEM fluid (Genuine Toyota Differential LT fluid 75W-85) that is very expensive and hard to find. Any options you would suggest for the next drain and refill? 80w90 conventional gl-5 http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgName=LUB&partNumber=780-05
or

http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgName=LCS&partNumber=10043


Fourth question: The ATF seemed ok (still a clear pink? red) but no one seems to know exactly when it should be serviced and how. Your technicians said given the low mileage (less than 60,000km for both vehicles) no service required for now. Owners manual merely recommends an inspection at given intervals. Vehicle owner doesn't want to wait until its too late. When is a good time? should drain and fill at 30,000 miles and do filter at 60,000 miles

Also, when performing transmission service - do your technicians only drain and refill the ATF from the sump or they also disconnect the oil cooler lines to get rid of the old ATF in the torque converter?

radautoworks:
usually the sump but we have the flush machine to empty whole system

VolvoS60:


^^^
Thanks for the prompt response.

Q1. Motor parts - Commonplace parts such as oil filters are a problem. For example, this land cruiser uses a spin-on oil filter. If we try to buy the filter from amazon/summit racing/rock auto etc. and we key in the model year, make of vehicle etc., we will be sold a cartridge filter. Same thing happened when I tried to buy an oil filter from your shop. (Unlike our vehicle, the 2008 Land Cruiser sold in the US is a 5.7L V8 and the oil filters are different). Other parts such as fuel pump assemblies are also a problem - we have two stand alone fuel filters that were bought in error for this land cruiser whereas the correct fuel filter is built into the fuel pump assembly. We are now wary of buying any more parts until we are sure of what we are doing - the VIN would sort this problem out immediately so why don't these merchants use that instead?

Q2. Transfer Case - thanks. Will check the fluid every now and then to be sure it isn't degraded.

Q3. Differential oil (front and rear) - Thanks - although synthetic lubricant is preferred (Red Line or Penrite) when we are ready to drain & refill.

Q4. ATF: From what you say, at just under 60,000km, we are over due for a drain and refill. From personal experience with my own vehicle (Corolla), a drain and refill is definitely better than doing nothing but the old ATF fluid left in the system quickly dilutes the new refill and the benefits of fresh ATF are lost almost immediately. Under what circumstances would you perform a flush? A flush would definitely get rid of nearly all the old ATF but it has its (many) critics. Check out the link below and tell me what you think - I personally prefer the method used by these guys. Do you think this method can also be used to drain and refill for other Toyotas (Corollas, Camrys, etc.)?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h1zcvZW2Zc&index=25&list=PLnjHGTM6N5Zm707ANuXa_xAIp5O-CMlpS&t=0s

VolvoS60:


^^^
Thanks for the prompt response.

Q1. Motor parts - Commonplace parts such as oil filters are a problem. For example, this land cruiser uses a spin-on oil filter. If we try to buy the filter from amazon/summit racing/rock auto etc. and we key in the model year, make of vehicle etc., we will be sold a cartridge filter. Same thing happened when I tried to buy an oil filter from your shop. (Unlike our vehicle, the 2008 Land Cruiser sold in the US is a 5.7L V8 and the oil filters are different). Other parts such as fuel pump assemblies are also a problem - we have two stand alone fuel filters that were bought in error for this land cruiser whereas the correct fuel filter is built into the fuel pump assembly. We are now wary of buying any more parts until we are sure of what we are doing - the VIN would sort this problem out immediately so why don't these merchants use that instead?

we do use the VINs

Q2. Transfer Case - thanks. Will check the fluid every now and then to be sure it isn't degraded.
Q3. Differential oil (front and rear) - Thanks - although synthetic lubricant is preferred (Red Line or Penrite) when we are ready to drain & refill. Look below for 75w90 fully synthetic. Wasn't sure it was in stock which is why I didn't suggest it


Q4. ATF: From what you say, at just under 60,000km, we are over due for a drain and refill. From personal experience with my own vehicle (Corolla), a drain and refill is definitely better than doing nothing but the old ATF fluid left in the system quickly dilutes the new refill and the benefits of fresh ATF are lost almost immediately. Under what circumstances would you perform a flush? A flush would definitely get rid of nearly all the old ATF but it has its (many) critics. Check out the link below and tell me what you think - I personally prefer the method used by these guys. Do you think this method can also be used to drain and refill for other Toyotas (Corollas, Camrys, etc.)?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h1zcvZW2Zc&index=25&list=PLnjHGTM6N5Zm707ANuXa_xAIp5O-CMlpS&t=0s

dru23:


Do you have full synthetic oil filter for 2012 corolla.. And the price please.. It is for a customer

VolvoS60:


^^^
I assume this was meant for someone else? I am a humble parts buyer like most of us here...

VolvoS60:


^^^

Q1: When I checked your shop a while ago the VIN option didn't work out for me. Non-USA vehicle so your database didn't respond.
yeeeaaah only way around that is to get euro based database. another good resource is showmetheparts.com

Q2: I saw the synthetic diff oil on my last visit to your shop a few days ago. Will explore that option ASAP.
cool

Any views on the Project 200 link I provided and their procedure for ATF drain & refill?

radautoworks:
Don't know the fluid specs for your car? Give the. VIN number and receive full specs for your car like below.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EibrCvLdWGM

ciouxox:
JHMCP26898CO26123, THANKS

radautoworks:


So this was a first, my usual spec screen wouldn't pull up for your car so I had to do it manually
Oil 5w20
ATF Genuine Honda Z1 ATF or idemitsu type H or dexIII
Coolant Zerex Maxlife
Refrigerant oil PAG-46

CityNGR:
@radautoworks why can't we just browse through your stock and order what we need without unnecessary gate keeping or am I missing something about how to shop on your platform?

ciouxox:
, Do you stock any, what will it cost me? Thank you so much.

radautoworks:


We don't control our website. It's done by corporate. None of the Carquests or Advances outside of the USA have web portals for ordering. It's a problem with currencies and local taxes, live inventory and regional blocks. While we all run under the same server, it's proved impossible so far to do for the over 30,000 items we carry. Do you have ANY idea how much easier my life would be!!??

But you sort of CAN find what you want. You visit advance's USA site, find the matching parts for your car and then contact us with part numbers for stock status and pricing .... It you could simply send us your VIN and let us do the legwork.

CityNGR:

This is still a big issue. The next shop with a real online presence is gonna send you into retirement!