Mercy95:
If you are in Kenya and want to change Naira to Kenya Shillings, send a DM

There’s no way to contact you, is this still available? I need some ksh

quam9997:
Good morning bosses .. I noticed something in my car this morning, I drove it out myself but only for me to park and I wanted to put it back and drive .. although the gear is in the drive .. the car isn’t on drive it appears that the gear selector is loose. Anyone know how this happened and the fix

Anybody please .. I was told it’s the gear cable I don’t know if that’s correct and the cost

Good morning bosses .. I noticed something in my car this morning, I drove it out myself but only for me to park and I wanted to put it back and drive .. although the gear is in the drive .. the car isn’t on drive it appears that the gear selector is loose. Anyone know how this happened and the fix

Did a deal with @catalyst and I had @wese as the escrow. Deal went smooth and nice 👍🏼

Joyoustimmy:







The code is related to your evap. As you have pointed out that your filler cap (fuel cap) is bad, you need to first change it before you go on with any other diagnosis as regarding your evap system. If the filler cap is not well tightened, it will trigger that code. When you replace the filler cap to a good one and the problem still persist, you can let me know.

Will do that and update, thank you very much

Good morning bosses, having enjoyed my car for a while without any issues other than servicing since I last fixed it. I recently noticed that my fuel gauge keeps dropping even tho there’s fuel there and my fuel cap needs to be replaced but it felt like there weren’t big issues. As for the fuel gauge, after a while it comes up back.

But I recently scanned my car and I noticed this error code. Please my bosses what does it translate too before I contact my mechanic

Can it fly for 80k

Mecoy:


Please where is thus mechanic located?

He’s located in ilasa, lagos

Conner44:


You’d need the services of an auto electrician for this fix.

I believe now is a good time for you to search for the service manual of your accord. All these small-small electrical glitches usually have clear solutions in those types of manuals.

I’ll download it .. thank you

Conner44:


This is electrical. Has to do with the fuel pump housing and its accompanying components.

Do you have any idea how I can sort it

Conner44:


That raising sensor could be your electronic throttle position sensor. I’m wondering why a scan never brought it up. Are you sure that was what the mechanic touched?

Anyway it’s awesome to have this feedback, so you mean your old gearbox is back in your engine and it’s functioning well without those symbols showing on your dashboard anymore?

Absolutely .. function just like before. He did not disclose what he wanted to fix, he just gave me his price and said he wouldn’t collect a fee until he’s done with my car and I’m sure it’s working. So it was a win/win situation

I recently noticed however that my fuel gauge indicator isn’t working and sometimes fluctuates.

Could it have been the bad petrol from black market that clogged the fuel pump or something is faulty in the fuel pump or it’s an electrical issue.

Anybody ever experienced this?

Conner44:


Yeah, once those ‘jaga-jaga’ numbers start showing on the dashboard and a simple fluid change didn’t solve your issue then it’s to change the gearbox. How I wish I saw those symbols sooner I’d have told you what’s up.

Go through luvinhubby for another cvt transmission. He’s in the market right there where they sell it.

Good morning boss, I had a crazy experience with this transmission thingy, I got a new transmission and the same problem still persisted. The person that sold transmission didn’t want to give full refund, lost about 100k as they did not give full refund. To cut the long story short my transmission was still in good condition. So the fuel pump changing, the fluid changing, the transmission changing wasn’t necessary.

It was actually raising sensor that was faulty or Atleast that was the little information the mechanic gave. I’ve fixed it and I’ve not experienced anything for like 20 days now.

I just feel I should drop this Incase there’s anyone else that had this same issue

Conner44:


Yeah, once those ‘jaga-jaga’ numbers start showing on the dashboard and a simple fluid change didn’t solve your issue then it’s to change the gearbox. How I wish I saw those symbols sooner I’d have told you what’s up.

Go through luvinhubby for another cvt transmission. He’s in the market right there where they sell it.

Thank you .. will contact Luvin hubby and give you feedback

Conner44:


After you tested the brainbox did you notice the issue go away? Is that why you’re looking for another ecu to buy?

Because I read that apart from a recall they can update/flash some specific models of these vehicles’ ecu and the issue will be resolved. I guess buying a new updated brainbox is the same as a re-flash that those oyibo dealerships do.

Sorry .. I meant new transmission was prolly dozing off while typing.. apologies for that


But Yh, we tested a new brain box with it and after like 20 mins the issues came back and there was a conclusion that I’ll need to get a new transmission.


I need a plug that’s reliable and affordable for Tokunbo transmission

quam9997:



Thank you.. will update once done.

We tested another brain box with it today just to clear all assumptions that it might be from Brian box. Issue persists which means I might have to get a brain box, anyone has an idea where I can get a good one at a good price?

Conner44:


Wow! I’m just seeing what’s displayed on your dashboard. That stuff that is displayed beside the 3 in your gear display is not supposed to be there except you have one of the more serious cvt issues.

I have some bad news for you. It’s like you’ve purchased one of the Honda Accord units that have a recall out on it because of its gearbox. I’ve read about this somewhere before. There is a website that you can input your VIN number and any TSB’s put out by Honda concerning your particular unit would be displayed.

I’m suspecting that yours would have the TSB for the infamous CVT gearbox recall but in the meantime just keep your fingers crossed. Give me some time to search out the website. When I give it to you just use your vin number on the page where it’s needed so you can see if your vehicle was affected.

If unfortunately your vehicle was affected, and the previous oyibo user didn’t take it in for the recall before selling and shipping to Nigeria then it means you will need to change the gearbox as nothing else can help it.

I’d get back to you on this.

I’d be waiting .. thank you for your time my Oga

Conner44:


The above bolded is the right way to go. Make sure the fluid is fresh and properly gauged before shifting your attention to anything else. The fluid is the life of the gearbox.

Hello my boss .. we’ve flushed the fluid and put a new one but the issues still persist.. i took it to a gear Rewire and they brought out the transmission and cleaned the valve body and all but still the issues persists and the P0796 and P0966 is still there and car still jerking once’s it’s about to enter gear

Conner44:


The above bolded is the right way to go. Make sure the fluid is fresh and properly gauged before shifting your attention to anything else. The fluid is the life of the gearbox.

Thank you.. will update once done.

Conner44:


If the scan is pointing to specific solenoids then that is where the issue is manifesting itself to be picked up by the car’s computer.

What powers solenoids is 12v from the alternator/battery and specific transmission fluid pressures. Sometimes solenoids just get bad and start working erratically before finally shutting down.

Also having low, old or dirty fluid can mess up with the solenoids. Low fluid will need topping off. Old/dirty fluid needs to be replaced and the solenoids cleaned up after the fluid change.

If after you changed the solenoids that first time you had some trouble-free day’s driving the vehicle around before the issue manifested itself again I’d suspect that you bought a bad replacement solenoid BUT if after the change you didn’t notice any immediate improvement that lasted for a few days then I’d shift my attention to the quality of the replacement I just put in before suspecting the transmission fluid or something else.

First of all check the proper way to guage your fluid. The mechanic might have gauged your own like how he does another brand of vehicle

Thank you very much, really appreciate.


I’m going to check the oil gauge from the “check bolt” but I’m thinking of even draining all the oils and put new one make sure it gauged. Then try it after a while, if it persists then will look into the solenoids. I don’t know if that makes sense tho

Conner44:


Baba, remember you’re driving a vehicle with a CVT gearbox. I hope you’ve not used ATF-DW1 in it

If you reduced the transmission fluid I hope it isn’t too low now. Check your owners manual on the proper way to check your transmission fluid level. It’s not the same across vehicle makes and models and your mechanic might be reading its level wrongly. Your symptoms look like it’s indicative of something to do with the transmission fluid not being at the normal level so far you’ve replaced the faulty solenoids with functional units already

I used Honda HCF-2 transmission fluid, but I’ll look up on the manual to confirm what you Judy suggested. But could the error codes still be a result of the transmission fluid, as it’s showing that two solenoid being faulty

Conner44:


Okay, so it was only the code P0796 that came up before you changed the solenoid and used the vehicle for how many more miles before the issue returned and the same code came back with the additional P0966 and P0141?

What type of vehicle is this again? On most accord transmissions their solenoids B & C are usually fused together in a single unit and must be replaced as a whole. It’s possible you purchased a bad replacement before.

2013 Honda accord.. I’m not sure the Mechanic replaced both, but at first it was P0796 and after replacing fuel pump and solenoid c .. that’s when the P0966 came up.


Prior to changing the fuel pump, I topped the transmission oil but it was still the same.


Then we later changed the fuel pump, changed the solenoid C sensor, reduced the transmission oil as the mechanic said it’s too much. After like 30 mins everything cleared and the car was fine until yesterday.


It came back with P0796 and P0966 and the jerking started especially when I change gear from R to D (vice versa) and I can’t go further than 40mph coupled with the car dragging before it moves

Conner44:


From your initial post you claimed to have first scanned the vehicle and gotten a solenoid code which you had replaced before driving for a while and the issue came back again right?

Is this code you’re getting the same as you got before you changed the solenoid before or is this a new code?

Yes .. the P0796 was the initial code of which I was advised to top my transmission oil and also replaced the sensor.

After that the code came back and now the car jerks when I try to push to 40mph and drags before it moves. Like something is holding it form moving well. I have to really accelerate before I’m able to climb some slightly high gallops on the road.


Then when I scanned again which it today, the code is back with 2 others

Dozieson:


Scan again and share codes

These are the codes my small scanner is bringing

jceesquare:

Scan again with a professional scanner and post the code you got.

I only have the portable scanner.. I would look for the bigger one .. but this is the code my small digital scanner keeps bringing

Good evening bosses, I’m experiencing an issues with my Honda accord. It drags whenever I accelerate before it becomes stable then when I’m close to like 40mph. It begins to jerks and I have to slow down. Accelerating now takes times, drags and louder. More like the engine doesn’t have enough power to fire.

When I scanned it’s was showing solenoid sensor. I replaced that and also topped the transmission oil and I’ve gone as far as changing fuel pump. It was fine for two days and now again it has started and I really don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Expert advice is needed.

Good evening bosses, I’m experiencing an issues with my Honda accord. It drags whenever I accelerate before it becomes stable then when I’m close to like 40mph. It begins to jerks and I have to slow down. Accelerating now takes times, drags and louder. More like the engine doesn’t have enough power to fire.

When I scanned it’s was showing solenoid sensor. I replaced that and also topped the transmission oil and I’ve gone as far as changing fuel pump. It was fine for two days and now again it has started and I really don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Expert advice is needed.

Good evening bosses, I’m experiencing an issues with my Honda accord. It drags whenever I accelerate before it becomes stable then when I’m close to like 40mph. It begins to jerks and I have to slow down. Accelerating now takes times, drags and louder. More like the engine doesn’t have enough power to fire.

When I scanned it’s was showing solenoid sensor. I replaced that and also topped the transmission oil and I’ve gone as far as changing fuel pump. It was fine for two days and now again it has started and I really don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Expert advice is needed.

.

kingreign:



Put car in Neutral and try to roll engine with a wrench/spanner, if it rolls fine, if it still doesn’t roll, remove belt and starter motor, roll again, and if it still doesn’t roll, Otilo!

The Rewire tried the first method but I wasn’t sure if he put it on neutral or not but the second one he only removed the belt but did not touch the starter.

In both cases it did not roll

Namzy:


It's possible it's the kick starter. As some can fail without warning.

The Rewire said from the way it was sounding it felt like the kickstarter is trying to force the engine but the engine isn’t responding, They tried to manually roll the engine and even used spanner and hammer, it still did not roll.

It was concluded that it might be a crankshaft.


I’m really confused at this point

Afternoon bosses after replacing my plugs based on the cylinder misfiring code that was showing on my car, it now works fine not until yesterday when the car decided not to kick or turn on again. At first I thought it could be battery, we had it replaced but it wasn’t the issue, and it wasn’t my key fob too. There’s also no error code on scanner but the Rewire that came to check it was saying the kick starter is faulty.

Saying I have to replace, my first question is could that be what’s wrong with it and the next is if that’s what’s wrong, please who has an Honda spare part dealer that sells the item and like how much does it go for.


Responses from the Ogas in the house would be appreciated