₦airaland Forum

All three options have their merits, but based on your criteria for classiness, speed, solidity, luxury, fun, reliability, and practicality, the 2016 Mercedes Benz E350 Luxury might be your best bet. It offers a luxurious driving experience, solid build quality, and a powerful engine while retaining a sense of class and practicality. Plus, its timeless design ensures it still looks sophisticated on the road.
Get consultation and connection to an automobile specialist on www.requestmechanic.com.

Cars coupled from Canada... ( Canadian spec) please avoid they are bound to have rust issues. My opinion though..to get connected to automobile specialist for your mobile issues please go to www.requestmechanic.com and click on request now thank you🙏

Being drunk and driving is a big risk..lots of life is wasted because of this... Another big risk is phone chatting while driving....

jceesquare:
Read your initial post and your response well.
If you understand how a CVT works then you'll know it does not have gears like regular automatic transmission and would not have erratic shifting of gears or slippage while shifting to another gear. You'd also know how not to always lift informations off the internet and paste all the time.

I am just a customer representative on request mechanic and don't know so much about cars...but thanks for the correction..am as well opened to learning, anyways that why I refer them to the website where they could get a specialist for various vehicles on www.requestmechanic.com nation wide. My apologies 🙏

jceesquare:
Copy and paste won't make you realise the car comes with a CVT transmission and not the regular automatic transmission.

..if you read properly I stated from the beginning if it was manual or automatic.. and made suggestions to both fact.. and pinned point to the fact that it needs a proper diagnosis if all is checked mate...

martins946:
Good afternoon gurus in the house. Pls I need your help, my Honda city 2008 check engine light always comes up and when it happens,the car can't move well. After scanned with a small scanner, I saw P1888 and P1887. Pls what is the cause and possibly solution. Help a brother. Thanks

The trouble codes P1888 and P1887 in your 2008 Honda City point towards a problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and potentially the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS). Here's a breakdown of the codes and possible solutions:

Error Codes:

P1888: This code indicates a malfunction in the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit. The VSS transmits data on the car's speed to the Engine Control Unit (ECU) which is crucial for various functions like engine control and transmission operation.
P1887: This code signifies an inconsistency in the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) input signal. This could be due to a faulty sensor itself, wiring issues, or problems within the ABS system.
Possible Causes:

Faulty Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): The VSS is a common culprit for these codes. It might be malfunctioning due to wear and tear, internal damage, or buildup of debris.
Wiring Issues: Damaged or faulty wiring between the VSS and the ECU could disrupt the signal transmission.
ABS System Malfunction: In some cases, problems within the ABS system can cause inconsistencies in the VSS signal and trigger these codes.
Solutions:

Inspect the VSS: A mechanic can visually inspect the VSS for any signs of damage or debris. They can also test the sensor with a diagnostic tool to confirm its functionality.
Replace the VSS: If the sensor is faulty, replacing it with a new one should resolve the issue.
Check the Wiring: A mechanic can inspect the wiring harness for any cuts, breaks, or corrosion that might be affecting the signal. Repairing or replacing damaged wires might be necessary.

Diagnose the ABS System: If there are underlying problems within the ABS system itself, a more comprehensive diagnosis by a qualified mechanic is needed.
If after all these is done and you still have an issue visit your vehicle specialist...or get connected to one on www.requestmechanic.com, click on request now circled in red 🙏

Nexxy007:
hi, Please i have Nissan Qashqai 2007, was working fine until suddenly it doent change gear anymore while driving. I can change to park, neutral, reverse and drive but it stays on just the starting gear, if i floor the accelerator, the rpm just increases and the vehicle can gain a bit more speed but the gear doesn't change, please what could be the issue.

There are a couple of possible reasons why your 2007 Nissan Qashqai isn't changing gears while driving:

1. Clutch Issues (For Manual Transmission):

If your Qashqai has a manual transmission, the problem could be clutch related. Here are some possibilities:
Worn Clutch Disc: Over time, the clutch disc wears down, reducing its ability to grip the flywheel and transfer power to the wheels.This can cause the engine to rev high without accelerating the vehicle effectively.
Faulty Clutch Cable/Hydraulics: The clutch cable (or hydraulic system in newer models) transmits pressure from the pedal to disengage the clutch. If the cable is frayed or the hydraulics malfunction, you might not be fully disengaging the clutch, preventing gear changes.

2. Automatic Transmission Problems:
If your Qashqai has an automatic transmission, the issue could be internal to the gearbox:
Low Transmission Fluid: Automatic transmissions rely on fluid to operate smoothly. Low fluid levels can lead to slipping and difficulty changing gears
Faulty Solenoids or Sensors: Solenoids and sensors regulate the flow of fluid within the transmission to control gear changes. A malfunctioning solenoid or sensor could send incorrect signals, causing erratic shifting or inability to change gears.
Internal Transmission Wear: In severe cases, internal components within the automatic transmission might be worn or damaged, causing difficulty changing gears. These are issues an expert should be able to checkmate, but if the mechanic can't check these out he should run a scan to pin point the problem.. To get connected to an automobile specialist closer to you go to requestmechanic.com and click on request now circled in red

[quote author=deji2443 post=128676317]Am also facing same issue with my Rav4. Engine goes off abruptly especially when I turned on AC staying on break / idle mode. My mechanic suggested to change fuel pump. But later told me that might not be the reason despite paying him for the fuel pump. Kindly help out.[/quote

Run a scan..if a fault is not detected, seek an automobile specialist or get connected to one one on requestmechanic.com..click on request now circled in red

Nemzy:
Hello,
Please my Rav4 engine goes off when I'm not accelerating or in park. I would have to turn it off completely and start it again to get it moving. The mechanic said it was fuel pump and changed the pump and filter and the problem stopped for like a week but it has now started again.
He scanned it and nothing was detected.
What could be causing this issue and how can I fix it?

Your mechanic was right to have changed the pump and filter.. but since it still giving same issue take it him and ask him to look out for these things..

Faulty sensor: A malfunctioning sensor like the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or crankshaft position sensor can send incorrect signals to the engine computer, causing stalling. While a scan might not have picked it up initially, a more thorough inspection by the mechanic might be necessary.
Idle air control valve (IAC): This valve regulates air entering the engine at idle. If it's dirty or faulty, it might not be able to maintain the proper air-fuel mixture for smooth idling, leading to stalling.
Vacuum leaks: Leaks in the intake system can disrupt the air-fuel mixture, causing stalling.
Electrical issues: Wiring problems or a failing crankshaft position sensor could be sending erratic signals and causing the engine to stall.

If all these is checked on and the problems are not solved you need an automobile specialist.. to get connected to one close to you go to request mechanic.com,click on request now circled in red and I assure you it would be fixed🙏

Nemzy:
Hello,
Please my Rav4 engine goes off when I'm not accelerating or in park. I would have to turn it off completely and start it again to get it moving. The mechanic said it was fuel pump and changed the pump and filter and the problem stopped for like a week but it has now started again.
He scanned it and nothing was detected.
What could be causing this issue and how can I fix it?

Faulty Idle Air Control Valve (IACV): This valve regulates the engine's idle speed. If it's dirty or malfunctioning, it can cause stalling, especially when coming to a stop.
Vacuum Leak: Leaks in the intake system can disrupt the air-fuel mixture, leading to stalling.
Sensor Issues: While the mechanic didn't find any codes, some sensor malfunctions might not trigger a check engine light. A faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) could be sending incorrect signals to the engine computer causing stalling.
Electrical Issues: Less common, but electrical problems like a failing crankshaft position sensor or wiring issues could also be culprits. if after all these is checked and it's still faulty seek a specialist.
We could connect you to your automobile specialist on requestmechanic.com by clicking on the button circled in red. 🙏

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Let's have a little chit chat! 💭 Ask us any questions you have about RequestMechanic and we'll answer all of them.

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On average I spend 30k a week,from home to office,and maybe market or hangout.. Toyota Sienna 2gr

Baztardidiot:
Help. I abandoned my car for close to 2months. So yesterday I decided to drive out and suddenly the middle /center console vents no longer blows ac with speed.it feels so low that it couldn't turn my fan diffuser I installed on the vents.now it blows underneath the seats and back vent.passenger and driver vent blows with speed and ac..but the middle suddenly is blowing like very very low speed. I checked the fans .they are working. I checked the gas and its still greenish white. Could it be a blower fuse went bad or something. I do not want to open any dashboard or anything cos it's still in factory state. I'm not comfortable driving then the ac is now blowing my legs and side windows and not in the middle where is much better for easy recirculation. I've also tuned the cluster panel and changed direction,no difference. I also put to outside temperature.no difference. I need ac to blow on my face and not legs.

Debris or dust buildup in the center vents could restrict airflow. Try cleaning the vents with a compressed air can or a soft brush.

Blower Motor Resistor Issue: This regulates the fan speed. A faulty resistor could explain the low airflow from the center vents

If after cleaning the vents, it doesn't work consider a check up with a mechanic...
You could get connected to one on requestmechanic.com... from the comfort of your home or workspace... Click on request now circled in red or fill in your mail on the waitlist thank you 🙏

Bullfallo:
The way kids are scratching and drawing on my car needs to stop and also the dust that settles on the car every morning mean that you will wash the car before going out almost everyday.

I have opted to buy car cover. But The auto market is quite far from my place, As i will need 5k fuel or about 8 real liters round tripping.

I have check online and saw some for 13k to 14k in total plus shipping. But i will still need like 4 liters to go pick it from their stop. I don’t know of the quality yet and if the prices are okey.. does anyone know how much its been sold at the market? You know pictures can be deceiving.

Also I have heard they don’t last because of sun. Can it this last a years or 2?

Below is the cheapest I found

Teach your kids about respecting the car: Consider involving them in car care activities to promote responsible behavior.

Car covering does not guarantee safety...considering the fact that smooth operator (thief) could vandalise your gadgets...bonnets could be opened and closed cleverly..

Advise you leave your car in the open to guarantee safety...or install an alarm if you insist on using the cover..
It's best you buy at the market than online so you don't have a situation of what I ordered Vs what I got...
To get connected to your automobile specialist please click on requestmechanic.com..or fill in your mail on our waitlist thank you 🙏

Emekayoung:
I am currently using honda ATF for my 2006 city. My issue now is that when my car is cold it drives normal,but when it becomes hot it vibrates when i am trying to move from the beginning. But when the car starts moving,it no longer vibrate. And that vibration is only when I am trying to move the car from the beginning while the car has warmed up very well. Please what do I do?

I understand that your 2006 Honda City experiences vibrations when starting from a stop when the engine is hot, but not when cold. While I cannot diagnose the exact issue remotely, I can offer some insights and potential solutions based on common causes for this problem:

Possible causes:

Transmission issues:

Dirty or degraded Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF): Even though you're using Honda ATF, age and wear can cause it to break down and lose its lubricating properties. This can lead to increased friction and internal component wear, causing vibrations when starting from a stop when hot due to thinned fluid and higher operating temperatures.
Faulty torque converter: The torque converter plays a crucial role in transmitting power smoothly. A worn-out or malfunctioning torque converter can cause vibrations, especially when the engine is hot and under load from starting.
Internal transmission wear: Worn gears, bearings, or other internal components can cause vibrations within the transmission, manifesting when the engine is hot and the transmission fluid thins out.

In as much as you are changing your fluids..is best you get connected to a Honda specialist. You could get connected to one on Requestmechanic.com. click on request now which is circled in red or fill in your email add on the waitlist.

[quote author=Fieryblaze post=128028886]I need a very good mechanic between Lekki - Sangotedo strip. I am tired of Mechanics, I just need someone that is honest for God's sake. Why can't we just be honest in this country, charge me whatever amount for your workmanship but tell me actual price of parts and buy original For God's sake. Mechanics are just wicked, and heartless.
PS: Please is it advisable to buy Brand New Steering Pump or Tokunbo? Please Mechos in the house reach out biko🙏 (Please be honest🙏🙏)


Really sorry for the loss of integrity with mechanics...you could go to our website requestmechanic.com and get connected to automobile specialist within your location. Click on the part circled in red which states Request Now.. Thank you

Break free from car headaches. Visit www.requestmechanic.com now for transparent, expert, and hassle-free car care!

The signs are clear - if you've ever felt the agony of car emergencies, or struggled to find specialized care, RequestMechanic is your solution!

Some drivers believe changing oil more frequently than recommended enhances engine performance and longevity.

Let's talk about it!

kingvicking:
I am here in Abuja,
Thanks for your time and advise will have that checked out accordingly

You're welcome 👌

Kingdemu:
No be small vex this guy dey vex me. Must you keep spamming people's threads? With this annoying attitude of yours, I doubt if any sane human would want to contact you

Sorry I you are vexed..but providing solution to mechanical problem is what we do isn't it? Oh yes many sane person do contact us.🙏 I hope you do so too👌

kingvicking:
Good day all,

Please I have a 2007 Automatic Toyota Yaris, petrol, which uses an electric throttle

The issue is that it will accelerate to 70 or 80mph and won't go past that level no matter how u press the gas pedal, it will just become sluggish/heavy

Mechanic said maybe we should change the gas pedal or throttle body

So this morning I scanned the car with my portable Bluetooth scanner
And got 2 error codes
1. P0016 crankshaft position sensor
2. P1585 throttle control unit malfunction
(I have attached the scan result)

Kindly advice on the first steps

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar and click on join the the Wait list.

Prioritize the crankshaft position sensor (P0016): This appears to be the more likely culprit for your specific symptoms, including the inability to accelerate beyond 70-80 mph. Replace the faulty sensor and clear the code. Test drive the car to see if the issue resolves.
Next, investigate the throttle control unit (P1585): If the engine performance issue persists after replacing the crankshaft position sensor, consider cleaning the throttle body (a possible cause for the P1585 code). If the issue remains, further diagnosis and possible replacement of the throttle control unit might be necessary.

Thank you as you put in your mail on our waitlist on Requestmechanic

ReformerD:
Please, what could probably cause occasional hard starts on a Hyundai Sonata? If I start the car in the morning, it runs fine. However, when I park and try to restart it after a while, it has a hard start. If I switch off the car and restart it, the car runs fine again, and there's no engine light code on the car. The mechanic advised me to keep using it until the problem shows itself. Also, the car runs fine.

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.


Occasional hard starts on a Hyundai Sonata with the symptoms you described can have several potential causes. Here are some possibilities, starting with the most likely:

Fuel System:

Vapor lock: This occurs when fuel in the lines boils due to high temperatures, creating vapor bubbles that disrupt fuel flow. It's more common in hot weather and may explain why the first start of the day is fine but later restarts are difficult.
Clogged fuel filter: A clogged filter restricts fuel flow to the engine, making it harder to start. Consider your car's mileage and maintenance history to assess the likelihood of this.
Faulty fuel pump: A weak or failing pump may not deliver enough fuel pressure for easy starting.
Ignition System:

Spark plugs: Worn or fouled spark plugs can weaken the spark needed for ignition, causing hard starts. Check their condition and consider replacing them if necessary.
Ignition coils: Failing coils can disrupt spark delivery to specific cylinders, leading to rough starts.

Temperature sensor: A faulty coolant temperature sensor might send incorrect information to the engine computer, leading to an improper fuel mixture for warm starts.
Battery: A weak battery can struggle to crank the engine, especially after a short shutdown when it hasn't fully recovered. Get the battery tested to ensure it's within acceptable voltage range.

So if after all this routine check and it doesn't solve your problem...then go for a scan.


Thank you, as you put in your mail on our waitlist on Requestmechanic 🙏

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.

Drivetrain issues: Since the shaking began after gearbox work, it's possible something wasn't reassembled correctly, leading to an imbalance or misalignment in the drivetrain. This could include faulty CV joints, bad wheel bearings, or even loose driveshaft components.
Engine mounts: You mentioned replacing some engine mounts, but it's possible others might be worn or damaged, causing the engine to vibrate excessively.

Transmission slipping: If the gearbox wasn't properly serviced or repaired, it could be slipping in the lower gears, causing a delay in response when you slow down.
Vacuum leaks: Leaks in the vacuum lines connected to the transmission can affect its responsiveness.
Sensor issues: Faulty sensors related to the transmission or engine can send incorrect information to the ECU, leading to delayed responses.

I recommend you take it back to that same mechanic and relate the issue..or possibly run a scan.

Thank you as you put in your mail on our waitlist

Continuation

Hey guys its the weekend and these are six tip to maintain your vehicle for longevity.

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar and click on join the the Wait list.

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escohido123:
Pls guys my Honda 2009 refused to start.
When I start it, the lights on the dash board comes on and it cranks but it won't start.
What could be the issue?

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar and click on join the the Wait list.

Here are some possibilities:

Battery:

Weak battery: Even if the lights come on, the battery might not have enough power to turn the engine over fully. Try jump-starting the car or getting the battery tested/replaced.
Dirty or loose battery terminals: Corrosion or loose connections can prevent the battery from delivering enough power. Clean the terminals and tighten the connections.
Starter:

Faulty starter: The starter is responsible for turning the engine over. If it's malfunctioning, the engine won't start. This might be accompanied by clicking or grinding noises when you try to start.
Ignition system:

Faulty spark plugs: Worn or fouled spark plugs can prevent the engine from sparking properly. Check the spark plugs and replace them if necessary.

Faulty ignition coils: These coils provide the spark to the spark plugs. If they're faulty, the engine won't spark and start.

Fuel system:

Clogged fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict the flow of fuel to the engine. It's essential to replace the fuel filter according to the recommended maintenance schedule.

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unikazzy:
Need a candid advise on the above topic pls

BETWEEN PEUGEOT 307 AND 308 WHICH ONE IS MORE BETTER

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.

Choosing between the Peugeot 307 and 308 depends on your priorities and needs. Here's a comparison to help you decide:

Peugeot 307 (2005-2008):

Pros:

Fun and sporty driving experience
Spacious interior for its class
Large cargo space, especially in the estate version
Generally reliable with proper maintenance
More affordable than the 308, especially used
Cons:

Older technology with a less modern infotainment system
Lower fuel efficiency compared to the 308
Some reported issues with the automatic transmission
Safety features not as advanced as the 308
Peugeot 308 (2013-present):

Pros:

More modern and stylish design
Higher quality interior materials and finishes
More fuel-efficient engines with lower CO2 emissions
Advanced safety features, including lane departure warning and automatic emergency braking
Improved technology with a touchscreen infotainment system and smartphone connectivity
Cons:

Less engaging driving experience than the 307, especially in older models
Smaller cargo space compared to the 307 estate
Generally more expensive than the 307, both new and used
Overall:

If you prioritize driving enjoyment, affordability, and practicality, the Peugeot 307 might be a better choice.
If you value modern technology, fuel efficiency, safety, and a more refined driving experience, the Peugeot 308 is the better option.
Here are some additional factors to consider:

Budget: The 307 is generally cheaper than the 308, especially in the used market.
Body style: Both cars come in hatchback and estate versions, but the 307 estate offers more cargo space.
Engine: The 307 has a wider range of engine options, while the 308 has newer and more efficient engines.
Mileage: If you're looking for a used car, consider the mileage and condition of each individual car.
Ultimately, the best car for you is the one that best meets your needs and preferences. I recommend taking both cars for a test drive to see which one you like better.

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lovinhubby2wife:
Hello everyone, you guys are amazing here.
Please my Nissan Altima 2002 is throwing this code:

P0745
Raw code: 0745
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
Transmission fluid pressure (TFP) solenoid - circuit malfunction
Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction



The reason why I scanned it was because it jerks each time I engage the gear from park to drive to reverse, the car jerks slightly. Also when I step on the theto the car revs then jerks before engaging. It's quite annoying.

I got the car recently by the way. Everything else works great.

I took it to a mechanic here in Benin and they said I should get a new gear box which will cost me over 150k. They said they don't recommend working on the transmission.

Will getting a new gear box fix this issue? Or should I just sell the car off and count my losses? I have heard horrible stories of transmission/gearbox nightmares

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.


Here's a breakdown of the code and potential causes, along with recommended steps:

Code P0745:

Meaning: Indicates a problem with the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) solenoid circuit. This solenoid regulates fluid pressure within the transmission, crucial for smooth shifting.
Symptoms:

Jerking or harsh shifting between gears
Delayed engagement when starting from a stop
Slipping gears
Check Engine Light illumination
Potential Causes:

Faulty TFP solenoid: The solenoid itself may be malfunctioning, requiring replacement.
Wiring issues: Damaged or corroded wiring to the solenoid can disrupt signals.
Low transmission fluid: Insufficient fluid can cause pressure problems.
Clogged transmission filter: A clogged filter can restrict fluid flow, affecting pressure.
Internal transmission problems: In rare cases, more severe internal transmission issues might be the culprit.
Recommended Actions:

Check transmission fluid level: Ensure it's at the correct level and condition. Add fluid if necessary.
Inspect wiring and connectors: Look for any signs of damage or corrosion and address them.
Clear the code and retest: Use an OBD-II scanner to clear the code and see if it returns.
Consult a qualified mechanic: If the code persists or symptoms worsen, seek professional diagnosis and repairs.
Additional Information:

Drop resistor: Some Nissan Altimas have a drop resistor for the TFP solenoid, which can also fail. Have a mechanic check it.
Transmission fluid flush: If fluid is old or contaminated, a flush might be recommended.
Remember: Driving with transmission problems can lead to further damage and costly repairs. It's crucial to address the issue promptly.
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cucumbar:
Will be in the market to scout for a 2013/2014 Hyundai Santafe.

Please , what and what should I be looking out for?
I learnt some of the trims had a recall because of engine and power train issues when they get to about 80k miles.

I don’t want to get a vehicle that will be a problem later.
Please, what engine type or trim should i avoid?

Are they easy to maintain and parts readily available?

Won’t mind if anyone has a good offer for me as well.

I will appreciate your input.

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.

To help you choose the right 2013/2014 Hyundai that won't cause future problems, here's some information:

Engines to avoid:

2.0L Theta II G4FS: Some versions of this engine experienced premature engine bearing failure, leading to engine knock and potential failure. Avoid models affected by this issue, which mainly include Sonata and Tucson models from 2011-2014.
1.8L Nu G4NU: While generally reliable, some early versions had issues with excessive oil consumption and timing chain stretch. Opt for later model years (2014+) or do thorough checks for these issues.
Trims to be cautious with:

High-performance trims: If you prioritize reliability and affordability, avoid high-performance trims like the Sonata Sport or Elantra GT. They might have more demanding maintenance requirements and potentially higher risk of issues.
Overall, reliable trims and engines:

4-cylinder engines: The 2.4L G4KC Theta II and 1.6L Gamma G4FJ engines are generally reliable and well-regarded options.
Base and mid-level trims: Opting for base or mid-level trims often strikes a good balance between features and reliability, avoiding potential complexity of higher trims.
Maintenance and parts availability:

Easy to maintain: Hyundais are known for being relatively easy to maintain with readily available parts at affordable prices.
Regular maintenance: Remember, any car needs regular maintenance and proper care to avoid issues.
Finding a good deal:

Car history reports: Always check the car's history report for any accidents, maintenance records, and potential recalls.
Independent inspections: Consider getting a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic before committing to a purchase.

Thank you as you put in your mail on our waitlist 🙏

cucumbar:
Will be in the market to scout for a 2013/2014 Hyundai

I don’t want to get a vehicle that will be a problem later.
Please, what engine type or trim should i avoid?

Are they easy to maintain and parts readily available?

Won’t mind if anyone has a good offer for me as well.

I will appreciate your input.

If you're in Lagos contact roadside assistant by going to www.requestmechanic.com click the red circle "click on Request Now" button to get immediate assistance . Also enter your email to join the waitlist bar by clicking on join the the Wait list.

To help you choose the right 2013/2014 Hyundai that won't cause future problems, here's some information:

Engines to avoid:

2.0L Theta II G4FS: Some versions of this engine experienced premature engine bearing failure, leading to engine knock and potential failure. Avoid models affected by this issue, which mainly include Sonata and Tucson models from 2011-2014.
1.8L Nu G4NU: While generally reliable, some early versions had issues with excessive oil consumption and timing chain stretch. Opt for later model years (2014+) or do thorough checks for these issues.
Trims to be cautious with:

High-performance trims: If you prioritize reliability and affordability, avoid high-performance trims like the Sonata Sport or Elantra GT. They might have more demanding maintenance requirements and potentially higher risk of issues.
Overall, reliable trims and engines:

4-cylinder engines: The 2.4L G4KC Theta II and 1.6L Gamma G4FJ engines are generally reliable and well-regarded options.
Base and mid-level trims: Opting for base or mid-level trims often strikes a good balance between features and reliability, avoiding potential complexity of higher trims.
Maintenance and parts availability:

Easy to maintain: Hyundais are known for being relatively easy to maintain with readily available parts at affordable prices.
Regular maintenance: Remember, any car needs regular maintenance and proper care to avoid issues.
Finding a good deal:

Car history reports: Always check the car's history report for any accidents, maintenance records, and potential recalls.
Independent inspections: Consider getting a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic before committing to a purchase

Thank you as you put in your mail on our waitlist.🙏