₦airaland Forum

I don't know what specification of oil is for your car though. But you got to be certain about the quality of those oils you get, and verifiable sources.

I have heard people say some vendors, and even filling stations, refilled those containers with conventional oils (none synthetic).

This is the final video of the repairs. After the installations was done, we decided to READY the vehicle. Immediately we got it readied, you'd be surprised what came out of the exhaust tailpipe.
Check out the video. So terrible. We had to get the radiator cooling system, entirely flushed, with clean water, before finally introducing Toyota super long life coolants in there.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eltgBWIjXRk

This second video shows when we had finished the repairs, and awaiting installation in the car.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DwmbhJowFI

This is the first of a three part videos on how the battery pack of this highlander was resuscitated.

Some years ago down town somewhere in Surulere, there was a terrible downpour, which wrecked havoc on properties, and possessions.

Unfortunately, there was a highlander that was parked on a low land area of the street, overnight. When the mornings came, owner had prepared set to go to work, but discovered the high voltage compartment had being flooded already.

The only fix was either to replaced the pack completely, or do some swaps. We opted for swapping some part of the high voltage system, and refurbishing the battery pack.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWT-62ZRdME


Disclaimer: Please if you're not comfortable working with HV systems, do not attempt this repair. You could be hurt, or even killed when messing around these systems.

Information such as contained in the blog, are extremely useful, if one adheres to them. They even helped fixers like us breathe some sigh of relief.


Regards

Check out what I saw in there!

Cutting through one of the battery pack cell's segment with a hacksaw.
I could only do this because there is no risks of arching, due to extremely low voltages displayed on my digital meter.

Have you ever thought what exactly is inside of these Toyota hybrid pack modules? Well, I have had such thoughts too. Putting those thoughts into action, I have decided to get some dead modules lying down in the shop; I also ripped them apart, to find out exactly what lies inside. I am doing this for the fun of it though.


See what I have discovered, embedded in here:

https://www.dxta.com.ng/2019/11/06/tear-down-of-a-toyota-hybrid-module/



Regards.

Legalwealth. Na gode. Ubanjigi ya sa mu dace. Amin summa amin.

Nawao oga. You still haven't fixed this issue or you're just managing to see if the whole thing would disappear on its own?

This was the sunroof hoses and appurtenances connected and ready to be secured properly

That's the discharge hoses

Sunroof discharge hose and appurtenances (the black junction like joint). That part too was clogged with organic matter (decayed vegetation), and grit.
I had to used same copper wire to forcefully clear it up.

Making the hole through with the copper wire, would require using some quantity of water to flushed through the hole.

A clogged fuel filler drain port. Noticed the grit blocking the opening. I used a copper wire to forced through the opening

Clogged sunroof discharge hose with a bigger diameter, while the fuel filler drain hose is coloured pink(red).

Front sunroof discharge location shown

Passenger side airbag cover removed

That's the sunroof of the car

Many people must have wondered how water or moisture regularly gets into their cars, at each dawn of the raining seasons, or when they get their cars detailed at a car wash shop. Some of the reasons I have found to be responsible for this problem, is not far fetched from what you all might be thinking.

Well, for you to get a much detailed explanations on this problem, I have written an article, specifically on how you could identity the problem yourself, and use some simple procedures, to have it fixed. This repair would save you some cash, if you're short on funds. Sometimes it pays to DIYer, if you're handy with some basic tools.

I am using my car, as a case study here. Your car's sunroof plumbing might be different from mine.

Here's the link:


https://www.dxta.com.ng/2019/11/04/how-to-repair-water-intrusions-in-your-cars-interior/


Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for any damages that could occur, during any of the disassembly or installations of any of the side airbags.
Don't disconnect airbag connectors. Its fatal, and could kill you.


Regards

Its simple na. Those countries have interests above religion when it comes to China. And its also because of they know that China is strong militarily.

Here's my interpretation:
1. You ran that engine idling for ~18min, which allowed it to get to its operating of 70°C, and also that got the catalytic converters operating at optimum at 510°C. This tells you the catalytic converters are operating efficiently here.

2. This car is in good shape here. The fuel consumption I can say here is within normal thresholds. This you see by the switching value of the SFT. We don't have long fuel trims shifting to the extreme, in order to attain an equilibrium in terms of injection pulse width (commanding the ECU to balance up fuel consumption between rich and lean).

If the fuel economy of this car was problematic, the readings from the MAF readings would have being more than what it is currently.

3. Looking at your O2S, and the switched of the looks from OPENED to CLOSED, for the 18min the engine has being idling, tells me the sensors are in good shape.

4. Comparing the IAT 54°C and AAT 20°C, this tells you that the intake air the car is inhaling has risen to that value, because of the level of engine idling the car was subjected to(70°C).

This is basic physics or fluid mechanics, where fluids or flows towards an are of less resistance.

4. Finally, this car is OK. Has no check engine light kit on the dashboard, and the evaporative emission systems also appears to hold vacuum properly.

The fuel level in that car is more than 1/2 tank, seeing the value displayed on the EVAP portion of the evaporative emission systems.

The car's charging system is perfectly working. Check out the battery's current battery voltage reading: 13.764V.



I have hope this shades more light to the data you presented.

Please do correct me if I'm wrong in some of my conclusions.


Regards.

Thebigkendo. That 7.5A fuse(normal automotive fuse) I just want it in there, just after the battery, to protect that logo, just in case there was any inrushing current. I already had the LEDs regulated to the current limit I want(20-30mA).

7.5A isn't for operating the LEDs logo. If you try that, your logo would be fried.

Thanks for the corrections on the fretboard usage too. Corrections have being effected

empron. The resistors were all connected in series to each of the positive leg of the LEDs, before they were all connected in parallel.

If I did used resistors, all my LEDs would be burnt na. The resistors were used to achieved a desired forward current.

Here's how the prototype logo lights up at night. This was carried out on my worktable.

Setting up the prototype for testing

Infiniti logo placed side by side with the sketched logo

Testing the logo sketch

Logo removed, and a sketch of the logo made on a breadboard. Testing the fitting position

Infiniti front logo ready to Br removed

However, I have decided to purchased an already made LED strips, which I'd designed for the logo. This design, would have a variable resistor, that would vary the brightness of the LED logo at night, and so forth. A 7.5A fuse would be incorporated inline on the battery positive side, up to where the switch would be. I intend to operate the logo independently of other accessories.

I have being battling with how to make an enclosure, the size of my car's logo, that would properly protect the 3mm size LEDs that I have designed as a new logo for my car.

I have thought about getting some sort of flux or candle wax, to spray on the LED tails or terminals.

The reasons for that is to try and prevent corrosions that might hamper the smooth operations of the logo at night, which would affect its lifespan.

Does anyone have an idea of what method to use to prevent corrosion on the LED pins on the fretboard?