₦airaland Forum

If you've got a Hilux truck mechanically"dead", and you can't afford a replacement engine because of the cost for now, there's another alternative, that would take care of your needs.

A direct fitted 2TR Japanese replacement engine, costs about #1.7million naira right now in the market.

The 5VZ-FE can be perfectly swapped into any vehicle applications, including this Hilux we did some 4years ago.

There are no limitations to the pickup platforms this can be done on. Although, from our experiences, the automatic swaps, initially took us some time before we finally got it perfected. Most of the swaps though we have done, have manual transmission systems, making them a little easy compared to the automatics.

Although for this company, a cargo carrying one, the initial engine, had been bastardized from their in-house workshop, and they just didn't want to go through the hazzles of getting another engine, which could develop engine problems in the near future.

After the project, it has only been oil changes, and brake jobs, because it has been a cargo pick-up with deliveries to up North, and the Niger Delta regions.

If you want something similar, please hit me up via my contact details on my signature.


Regards,
Joseph

I don't think #500k is worth it.
You can get 2000-2002 Pathfinders at almost that price(I meant, driveable ones).
You can get the steering issues sorted out, and you've a vehicle to use for sometime if you want to.
Sometimes, it's not just getting latest model vehicles that is the problem.

What other symptoms are you getting?
2. Any check engine light lit on the dashboard, including a CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM light?
3. What repairs have you attempted to fix this problem?
4. Does the hybrid pack blower fan behind the rear seats continuously blows(you hear noises like a blower fan humming)?
5. Does the car's AC system work,, or not?
6. Please endeavor to respond to these questions.
These would better help us help you.


Regards,
Joseph

How can this be an iron block here na?
The pictures here are not for 03, and this engine does not have iron block. They are all aluminum.
Except you are referring to the 2000 model 4runner.

PS: correct me if I'm wrong pls

Looking at how the substrate (catalyst or honey comb like substance) is clogged.

If you have never seen how a clogged catalytic converter looks like, it's symptoms of failure, and the various options available for it's fix, here's a link of a short thread I started:


https://twitter.com/dw_nig/status/1362862608236347392?s=19

weyreypey:
Show us your workshop.

Ok

dicksonadams. I rebuild myself.

VTEC system shown with their screens clogged.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57KWhGydJFA

That's another one. This switch is located by the engine mount at the passenger side right.

Clogged VTEC system. Look at the screen clogged with debris and dirt's.

Almost all car manufactures, have got this system incorporated in their engines, under different nomenclatures.

Honda for instance, refers to its own as the VTEC system, while, Toyota (VVTi/), and Ford refers to theirs as VTC.

The nomenclatures are not a problem. They all perform the same functions, irrespective of vehicle manufactures.

Their major functions has always been improved fuel economy, and engine performance, by making use of the VTEC (or VVTi, or VTC), in adjusting the intake/exhaust valves of an engine.

HOW TO KNOW A FAULTY HONDA VTECH SYSTEM
1. Sudden loss of power during acceleration. The engine RPM won't go beyond 3000RPM, and above, because the VTEC system isn't kicking in.

2. Check engine light lits on the dashboard, with a P2646 trouble code retrieved.


WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?
1. Low oil level, or dirty oil. Dead oils are embodiments of carbon deposits, and debris, from long duration of use.

2. Clogged VTEC system screens. For this Honda Accord, it has three strainers/screens of the VTEC system, where debris and dirt's easily clogs.

3. Using the wrong kind of engine oil viscosity recommended by Honda, or your manufacturer.
Some oils may not provide the necessary flow pressures(rates) needed by the VTEC system, in adjusting the timings.

4. Chamfered VTEC system wiring harnesses which maybe short-circuited,and/or unplugged connectors, which may lead to power problems to the VTEC switch.


HOW DO YOU FIX THE PROBLEM?
1. Check the level of the oil in the engine, and top up, if it's low.
Always replace engine oil and filter as at when due.
This would keep the valve train, and VTEC system super clean.

2. Visually check the VTEC system harnesses for short-circuit problems.
If the wires checked ok, the problem maybe coming from the VTEC system itself.

3. Time to take up some tools to work. Remove the VTEC components, and check for clogged screens.
Any trace of debris or dirt's on the screens, should be cleaned properly using carb cleaner, or replaced, since they are cheap

4. When replacing the screens, always apply little touch of sealant on the seals before mounting it.



CAUTION:
1. Do not reuse the VTEC components seals, if they already look brittle.
Reusing them would cause oil spills on the rear of the passenger side rear top cylinder.

2. Do not automatically replace a VTEC switch, just because your scanned result showed a rocker arm actuator fault.

3. At every cleaning of the VTEC system screens, always ensure you replace the engine oil and filter at the same time.

4. Always start with the simple things first, before replacing the VTEC switch itself. Things such as visually checking the VTEC wires before replacing the switch.

5. Do not agree to anyone telling you, it's an engine replacement scenario here.



Finally, here are some short videos I did on interpreting the life data of the VTEC system, while I was test driving the car.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GG7M09RUqbA



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnknVNFtl7g

@mayor555.
Here are the options:
1. You can waybill the engine down to Lagos for the rebuild, and subsequent returns

2. If you're not THAT FAR FROM LAGOS, you can drive down, or we book an appointment to have it rebuilt at your location.
Please remember this would come with extra charges, working outside LAGOS.


@homeboy. You're right, but I just made a general statement. Alot of people here, have been calling as regards engine rebuilds. I tell them, as long as their mechanics are competent, and can source for parts, no problems.


@bigx. Out got it the basics explanations perfect. One love dude!

Midoda. Wrong. I have seen engines I have worked on, that have been religiously maintained, that had engine issues.

@seanfer.
1. For a quote, that depends on the degree or state of your engine.

2. 4cylinders = 1 week; 6/8cylinders 1.5week, with a year's guarantee.

3. Yes you can switch to synthetic, depending on the current mileage on the car, and degree of year and wear.


PS: You can also use your AC system, just in case.
I hear people say it's impossible to use your AC system on a rebuilt engine.

Why would you disconnect your car's charging system, while the engine is running?

It's a wrong practice.
What exactly were you trying to achieve by disconnecting it?

What you are doing, is at your own peril. If your car's electrical or electronic system does not develop a problem now, it's just matter of time.

Here's the reason why you couldn't rev that engine when the terminal was disconnected.

1. Your car's fuel pump, runs off of your car's battery.
Disconnecting one of the terminals, would only have current flowing through the fuel pumps circuit, without completing the circuit (to work or function).

So now imagine, you cutting off the oxygen supply to your throat, by suffocations. You'd immediately die.
That's the same analogy with your car.

2. You are only causing a lot of voltage spikes or surges going through the wiring harnesses of your vehicle.
Pray you don't get to have burnouts on wires or fuses.

3. It might be that your throttle body assembly motor has burnt out already.

4. Reconnect the battery terminal, and retry.



Thanks

@flootinit. Yes, Al engines can be rebuilt.

Any engine can be rebuilt, no matter their engine compositions (aluminum+aluminum; aluminum+cast; or cast +cast ).

Hope this answers your question.

Engine dismantled, and some components on display.

Engine removal process

Hi guys! It's been a long time lurking over here.

Some of you can agree with me that, costs of replacement engines have astronomically risen sharply, from last year, and has continued, even in this new year.

But the common denominator I have realised from almost some car owners, who have got to replace their engines/transmission system's, is that from their market surveys, engines that costs #200,000 naira now, have suddenly gotten to #300,000, while some like the 2gr engines in some Toyota vehicles, are now ABOUT #500, 000.

With the terrible increases in the prices of goods and services, there are viable options to engine replacements, if you can't afford a replacement engine.

Some owners, have parked their vehicles at home, because of the economic nightmares currently ravaving people.

So what is that alternative?

It's simple.

YOU CAN REBUILD WHATEVER SORT OF ENGINE YOUR VEHICLE COMES WITH, NO MATTER WHAT YOUR MECHANIC/FRIENDS, etc tell you.

People would always tell you, "hey don't try it. It won't last! Why not buy another replacement engine"?.

Anyone telling you that, is either a novice, or is a vector that propagates such myth.

Some of the engines we've rebuilt or brought back to life, includes the following but not limited to them:
1. Honda Accords(evil spirit, EODs, ..)
K24, J- series, R40, etc.

2. Toyotas
4runner 2006s(1gr); 2AZ, 2TR, 2ZZ Corollas, 2gr RAV4 V6 and all engine models

3. Nissan/Infinities
Nissan Murano/Pathfinders/FX35/FX45/Nissan Amanda, etc


Thanks for reading, and contributing to this write-up.

You can get more info here too:


https://www.nairaland.com/4058580/all-engines-rebuilt-not-all



Regards,
Joseph

The 2000 model Camry, I believe its wjst people refer as tiny light, PR pencil light Camry. If that's the sort of Camry you've, YES, the differential is serviced separately, and needs the transmission fluid you used in replacing the one in your transmission system, to also service it. Don't use any other oil in that transmission system, asides the recommended one.

Oh God, Ikenna take it easy na. I don't think @Chuckle's comment was kinda like disrespectful here. He was just trying to point some aspects he thinks you'd need brushing on, to make it a better video, with content.

@chuckle. Just don't get hurt because it turned out this way.

I for one, like such POSITIVE criticism though.

What I normally do is to,
1. Get as much as possible, a lot of the customers complaints penned down on paper, or WhatsApp, so that there won't be problems in future.

2. I do asks for 75-90% of advanced fee, before starting such jobs.

3. I specially asks the customer, to SPECIFICALLY STATE what EXACTLY TGEY WANT FIXED (scope of job). If you don't do this, you'd keep spending your money with the hope of the customer would pay you. Some would actually pay you back, while others, like in your case, would look for an excuse to cause problems, either for the sake of it, or because they can't pay.


PS: Everyone happens to learn some life experiences in this field as one progresses in this learning curve.

Why not spend less than 5k or so to check the VIN with the guy putting up the VIN check services here?

VINs aren't checked for free o

oh kai Allah! da gaskiya? post pictures of the car.

I think its only your pockets than can determine that here sir.

Yes, Paul, the engine can be salvaged. I wished you were closer, say, maybe Abuja, or J-town, I'd have helped.

Here's what's going on:
1. your #3 and #4 ignition coils needs to Br replaced.

2. crankshaft and camshaft timing is off by some tooth, and needs to be correctly synchronized.

3. inspect your mass airflow meter, for dirt's on it. the intake air temperature sensor is incorporated in the MAF sensor itself.

4. What symptoms or problems are you getting?

You got to stick to a single thread. Don't created multiple ones for the problem pls. That way, you get a "full house" feedbacks.

Here's my #200 naira piece of advice:

1. focus more on the misfire codes, and the VTEC one.

2. the misfires could be caused by worn out spark plugs, failing ignition coils, chaffed ignition coils wiring, failing/bad injectors, and lastly, severe engine piston rings, or worn out bores.

3. get your mechanic over there to check all the mentioned likelihood, before replacing the crankshaft as they suggested to you.

4. the VTEC switch, at the front passenger side of the top cylinder, maybe clogged with sludge, and dead oil. how often do you service your engine, and all that? I hope you aren't using SEAHORSE, AMMASCO, or any other kind of oil, regularly used over there?

5. if you can, remove the VTEC switch, clean it up, if you got debris on its filter, and test using a 12V battery, to check for spool movements in the sensor itself.

6. a bad VTEC, would never allow your engine to Rev beyond certain RPM. you'd experience some form of performance issues if that switch is failing or bad.




I hope this helps you out there where you're right now.

Its frustrating sometimes when one is stuck with an issue like this, and spending endlessly.


NB: Get the misfires, and VTEC codes sorted out first, before tackling the O2S, and probably the EVAP ones.

Without the misfires on those three cylinders fixed, and the VTEC, there's no WAY, your engine would regain its "past glory".

Ubangiji ya baku sa'a Dan uwa na!


Regards