₦airaland Forum

Spent close to #250k? What the hell were they fixing? Where's your location?

Wao! There you go! That oil would kill that transmission system. Might Br the reasons the previous one was destroyed.

Get the car scanned then. You need trouble codes to work with.

Some questions for you:
1. Why did you replaced the transmission system in the first place? Because of this same issues?

2. Did you scanned the car before replacing the transmission system, or you just went straight ahead and replaced it because some persons told you, if it acts that way, it must require replacement?

3. What sort of transmission fluid did you used, or are using? I know that transmission is a CVT, that requires a different kind of fluid, and not Mobil 1 or oando a lot of people keep using.

What I think you're experiencing, could be that the drive belts inside the CVT system may have weakened, thereby causing the slippage you noticed (in terms of engine revving during driving).

Pls do scan the car for trouble codes. Might be solenoids related too.


Regards

Conner44. If you're considering one, go for either of the plugin, or full electric(BEV). Although the hydrogen cell ones has massive MPG, but we seem not to have the skills at the moment, fixing that trim. But for the others (electric, or plugin), there are people that can fixed em up!

Y not scan this car? You keep trying yo avoid that aspect, and looking for other options. Won't work that way. First things first na oga

Conner44. What trim of Honda clarity do you own? Electric, plug In hybrid, or fuel cell? Any of the trims have one or more characteristics of a regular hybrid vehicle.

If you've the cash, y not. We could do that.

What sort of car do you drive? Have you tried reading for trouble codes already? Try and check your catalytic converter for signs of blockage.

The ignition switch, or the ignition switch relay is stuck closed (remaining in the close position), even after the key has bring removed.

Engage the transmission system in D/R, depending on your choice.

NB: Allow the engine to be in electric mode before moving. This helps reduce your carbon footprints, and conserves fuel consumption.

The green arrow shows the hybrid battery of a 2010 highlander discharging into the load(driving the car).

The Ford fusion hybrid with it in READY.

A Ford fusion 2012 with only the ignition system on. This car has a key slot for keys, and not a start button system.
Notice how dim the dashboard lights are.

READY LIGHT ON on the dashboard of a hybrid Highlander 2010

It should be noted that as the engine is running, there is no energy flowing from the hybrid battery, or vice verse.
Notice that the energy monitor on this 2008 Prius is stagnant without any energy flow.

At this region, the engine is silent totally, and the car is on electric mode.
You can drive safely now, without putting more stress on the hybrid battery, and the engine.

The region that tells you the engine is running.
This was for a 2008 Camry hybrid.
The indicator stays at that point, for some few seconds, before it falls down to the zero mark.
Do not engage the transmission system at the point where the indicator is UP!

INTRODUCTION

I have had instances with some clients, not familiar with the operations of hybrid electric vehicles, and who at the same time, considering owning a hybrid or electric vehicle, of any brand, called to asks if the the mode of driving such vehicles are somewhat the same with known conventional vehicles around town. Some would even want to know how to drive one, if eventually they get to own one.

SO HOW DO YOU POWER ON THE VEHICLE?
In some of the known hybrid electric vehicle brands, like Ford fusion, and Toyota's Camry/Prius etc., the following steps should shed more light on powering on(or starting such vehicles)

1. READY LIGHT MUST BE LIT ON THE DASHBOARD. Depending on the brand of hybrid electric car you've got, some automakers have configured their car's "starting operations", to be only when the READY LIGHT IS LIT ON THE DASHBOARD. Without such indication signs coming onboard, the vehicle would never start.

Making the READY LIGHT come on, means that(a) your right hand foot must be depressed on the brake pedal, (b)while your right hand or finger is pressed m or turns the key, depending on what start system function your car has.

Camry, and some Prius, has a start button system, whilst Ford fusion hybrid, and some older model highlander and prius hybrids came equipped with a traditional car keys lots.

2. ALLOW THE ENGINE TO RUN FEW SECONDS BEFORE DRIVING. In these vehicles, immediately the READY LIGHT COMES ON, pls DON'T DRIVE YOUR CAR IMMEDIATELY. AT THIS STAGE, IT'S
ONLY THE ENGINE THAT IS RUNNING (IDLING)

To reduced emissions output, and to allowed the engine more efficient, manufacturers, have deigned the engine's ECU, in such a way that it immediately starts the car, in order to warm the engine up, and the catalytic converters. This prevents prevents engine wear problems, and helps lubrications of internal engine components.

3. COMMENCE DRIVING. After the engine has stopped working, engage the car in D/R, depending on your choice, but this time, with the the brake pedal depressed.

HOW DO YOU KNOW THE ENGINE HAS STOPPED WORKING? You get to know this when there's a sudden silence from the engine. This is the stage where one or all of the electric motors are driving or moving the car, without the engine coming on.

4. DO NOT DRIVE AGGRESSIVELY ON STARTUPS . Driving this way, exerts more "juice" from the energy storage system(high voltage battery), and would put more strain on the battery an a frequent engine cycling (the engine keeps coming on, to help with replenishment of lost energy.

The more you accelerate beyond 10km/hr, the engine itself comes onboard, to provide the much needed boost to the electric portion of the car.

5. DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT THE AC COOLING SYSTEM. The cabin cooling system is meant to provide cooling, not only to the occupants of the vehicle, but also to the high voltage battery pack behind the car. In some cars, vent homes are provided, at the passenger side rear (for Prius), at the middle of the windshield at the rear(for Camry), and underneath the rear middle seats (for highlanders).

Driving without the AC cooling system ON, would quickly shorten the lifespan of the hybrid pack. All hybrid electric vehicle compressors are electrically powered, and efficient, that's why they do not run off of the engine to burn fuels. It does not exert any loads on the engine, like a conventional vehicle, where the load on the engine from the AC cooling system, automatically means fuel consumption.


CONCLUSION
Knowing how to power up a hybrid electric car, and driving it more efficiently, is the key to sustainable ownership.

Getting to know these tips, affords you increased fuel economy, and a reductions on your emissions footprints.


Thanks for reading.



Regards

Seunoj. The softwares are available online from amazon, or at any automotive auto shop near you.

Una too funny jor. My hand no learn Benz or that o!
Maybe I tried pronouncing the traction control wrongly or so?!

Here's part two of the video.
The video shows the repairs being done. Sometimes, you don't need to spend a lot on simple repairs like this.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9D6CKTboQ

There are instances when you suddenly see the ABS light lit on your car's dashboard, and may have being wondering what exactly is/was the problem. Well, most of the reasons for the ABS light showing on the dashboard, ranges from a faulty wheel speed sensor, an open or short circuit in the ABS wire harnesses, or a faulty ABS control module/actuator. In the rare cases we've seen, a dirty wheel speed sensor tip, would prevent the sensor from receiving signals from the reluctor wheel to the ABS/ECU module, for subsequent operation.

This short video is part of a series of three part videos that demonstrates briefly how you could use a code reader, whether handheld or software based like what I used in this video, to interpret various ABS related PIDs, than spending tremendous time, troubleshooting the problem without any headway.

Here's the link:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lOGtuo-qrY



Hope this helps someone facing similar problems.


Regards

The logo bears some semblances to what Foton has on its vehicles. Nice job though.

Scanned that car first. What's the condition of the transition fluid?

Smart! You're perfectly right with your postulations about Catcon. I have seen that too.

Its the oxygen sensors that are responsible for the air/fuel ratios. A distortion in any of their readings, would impact heavily on fuel economy.

In my view, I would never replaced my catalytic converter, if it wasn't blocked, or degraded. Reasonable thing would be to take a look at the O2S. Sometimes, code readers don't just bring the codes up.



Hehe he! I didn't say you should throw them away na. Its still helpful. My concerns are people thinking using a code reader, and retrieving codes, absolutely means replacing parts to solve a problem.

That's a huge money been spent son fuel consumption here.

Here's a brief.

That sensor, measures the volume of oxygen in the system, and converts that in some sort of voltage values for the ECU to use in order to attained a set air/fuel ratio balance. If the ECU sees less oxygen in the system from the O2S, it would command an increase in the injector pulse width(prolonged fuel supply):rich system.

This code tells you the ECU isn't seeing the right air/fuel ratios for it to correctly operate the car.

So replacing that sensor didn't work, because, either you got the FAKE PARTS, OR THERE'S ABSOLUTELY A SHORT OR AN OPEN CIRCUIT PROBLEM WITH THE oxygen sensor wiring harnesses to the ECU itself.

NOTE: I have had issues like this too. Only replaced that sensor with a DENSO MADE. Any other one, would trigger that code.

Asks your electrician to look at those probable causes first! At least sensor replacement has being eliminated.

Trace those wires from the sensor to the ECU. It could be that the wire from the sensor close to the exhaust manifold has chamfered, and failed.

If all the above fails, then its time to do the following:

1. There could be other things causing the fuel consumption issues, apart from the O2S.
How's your air filter quality like? Terribly dirty, or...?Have you had it replaced since you owned that car?

A clogged filter is like when one's nostrils are blocked. The volume of oxygen you inhale/exhale, becomes insufficient, and that leads to problems (heart beat increases, since it tries to supply enough oxygen to cope with the demands ).

2. Removed your spark plugs and inspect. If they are worn out, replaced them all!

3. Is/are your radiator fans connected directly with the ignition system's circuitry? Does it come on immediately the ignition is turned ON?

4. Any signs of fuel leaks on the car? Sometimes, leaks do happens, that you may not be aware of. Any petrol smell?

5. How's your cars engine temperature? Late OCI on cars would increased friction on internal engine parts, which leads to increased engine loads, and then an increased in fuel consumption.
Any problems you've observed with your accessory pulleys? Any of them sticking or making awful noises(compressor, etc).?





PS: Here's an appeal to car owners with code readers.
Having a code reader read for trouble codes, does not equate to fixing a problem by replacing parts.
Code readers are there to narrow down the likely areas where you need to troubleshoot.


Hope this gives you some succour.


Regards,
Joseph

Ceerock. My contact details are in my signature.

The VSS on mounted on your transmission system maybe defective. Have your mech/elect person checked it out for you.


Regards
Joseph

I have a HP beads laptop, and a Dell inspiron. Dell has faulty motherboard, while the HP has got keyboard issues too.

The HP is 1terrabite.

What's your stake on Toshiba, @automoto?

Hi guys. I need your opinion on what laptop to choose from these brands:
1. HP
2. COMPAQ
3. DELL.

All have 2.0Ghtz; 4.0G, and...

What do I need the laptop for?
The purpose is to replaced my existing Dell inspiron 5050, and to have a system just for typing, downloads of PDF for research purposes. Something that's basically fast. I'm not interested in using it for movie downloads, etc.

Both Dell and the HP had no Intel inside, whilst the Compaq has something called ADC our so, and Intel altogether inside.

My concerns?
1. Y are Compaq laptops extremely hot during operation?
Is that because of the ADC something inside, or?



Your responses are highly welcomed.
I'm not a laptop geek, so your corrections as regards jargons used would be appreciated too.


Regards

This people can't defend themselves, despite the huge investments they have made on defence. Its really ridiculous and shameful.

The Saudis are just trying to protect their reign. Asides that, their priority is religion.