Here's summary of the fix:

A. Check the ignition coils, if they are soiled with engine oil from the valve cover. If they are not, then you need to replace all those ignition coils.

B. Check the air filter in the airflow box, if it's very dirty. If it's dirty, clean or replace it, and also have the mass airflow sensor replaced.

C. Forget about the evaporative emissions problem for now.


PS: Don't forget to erase the stored codes, after replacing those parts.




Regards,
Joseph

Dadaa:
Hi Trgo,
Nice post and very informative indeed. Can you send me your contact details on WhatsApp? Kindly contact me on 08033086206 please

Sure! My contact details are on my signature.
08066643532(WhatsApp/calls)

you guys just made this thread just someone. she only asked for directions, and you can see the responses she got. why not direct her to where you think she'd get the car sold, than making her feel somehow, advertising or looking for help here?

Scan!!!!!!! that car pls!

Welcome to NL.

*What's the mileage on your car?

*What oil grade have you been using before now? Has there been somewhat change from one oil grade to another? For example, 20W50 to 5w20(30)?

*What solution options are you looking at? Repair or replace?

*What's your engine capacity? 4/6cykinder?


Here are what I'd suggest you check and do:

1. Check your engine's PCV first for a failed check ball(has a valve kind of bearing in it). If it's bad, you sure would keep consuming oil.

2. Inspect the top cylinder valve covers for oil leaks, and probably spills on the engine block or head(s), if a V6.
Replace the valve cover gasket, or crankshaft/camshaft oil seals, if they are the culprits.

3. What oil grade are you or have been using before this problem?
Be aware that oil leak sealers been sold, ONLY MASKS THE PROBLEM, NOT FIX IT.

4. Finally, it does not necessarily means that it's only when an engine visibly emits smoke, before it has internal engine issues.

In my opinion, and experiences rebuilding engines, your piston rings may be worn out already. It's just a matter of time for the sure signs of oil consumptions to be visible in form of smoke.

Replacing or rebuilding that engine maybe your best bet trust me.



Regards

GAZZUZZ:

appreciate the corrections dude!

id4sho:

my 2tr-fe 4cyl is iron block engine and aluminium top. we've got four of such at home

what model year are those ones?

SeaTrade:
Its a 2008,I don't even know the engine type.
I will take a picture and post here when I get to where the thing pack up this morning.
Mehn!

2008 is modern, and has engine block and cylinder head, made of aluminum.

SeaTrade:
So guys,good evening.
I got a truck like 3months ago for my business .
It was a used truck.
Have been using it for long hauls since,but I noticed something.Oil problems.
That thing drinks oil like crazy,but it doesnt smoke.
After coming back from calabar today to PH,the thing kaput after climbing a hill.
It still starts but the sound is awful,clanking noises from the engine.
So I am thinking,what could be the problem?
Is the engine dead?
Do i rebuild it?how solid is it gonna be after rebuilding it?
Is it a good thing to do with a hilux?
Mehn ,i cant wait to start buying brand new cars,nonsense!!
Cc gazzuzz,eddee,9icetoo,nurey,timifakay,radautoworks and all other gurus in the house,please help

I think you caused all this yourself here. you saw all these red flags, and kept driving that thing with all that hauling to long trips?

Rebuild, or convert is the option if you don't have #1.7million for the replacement engine.

GAZZUZZ:


Rebuild the old engine

It's a steel block and very easy to rebuild.

Cut the crankshaft, install new bearings , buy new pistons and rings, replace valve seals .

Engine should last 600years

I don't think that Hilux is a cast iron block. Except if his Hilux is the Y series make of engine, with an iron block (old model).

Inception:
Great job TRYGO

Would have been perfect if the installation sequence was captured.

How did you deal with the electronics(speedometer, ECU ) etc?

Is this truck a manual or an Auto?

1. Captured the installation sequences, but like I pointed out to someone that raised similar points, I got them lost in my phone (phone was flooded with water. Had to replace it).

2. As regards the speedometer, there was an electrician that was able to hack into that aspect of the job. He basically made sure the RPM, temperature gauge, oil pressure switch, and even the obd 2 were working. I do not personally do that part of the job.

3. As for the ECU, we didn't use the stock ECU, but the complete wiring harnesses, and ECU, of the 4Runner was what was used; with the key 4runner key.

4. This is a manual.
The first one we ever did, was an automatic. It took sometime to get the transmission electronics part going.



Regards,
Joseph

KpakamAuto:
you can get a Honda Accord 1998/199( baby boy) with this amount

Don't you think that amount is much for a baby boy?

nurey:


You have always pushed the idea of rebuilding, I remember your 1GR thread for the 03 upward 4runner, is it that the 2TR can't be rebuilt or is rebuilding more expensive than fixing a 5VZ instead.

Why didn't you use the 1TR instead since the vehicle was fitted with it too.

The 5VZ was standard on the I think 98 to 2002 toyota hilux I believe if you get such specimen your other needs may be answered

1. like I keep saying, ALL ENGINES CAN BE REBUILT NO MATTER WHAT.
If a client decides to choose such an option, I can't forcefully do otherwise. What I can only do is to present the pros and cons of all available options: replacement, rebuild, or a swap

2. Rebuilding the 2TR depends on what kind of condition the engine is in before contemplating a rebuild. If it'dbe economical, or otherwise.
There are a whole lot of things companies look at( long term solutions to such problems, durations, and not just engine replacements or rebuilds).

*what sort of businesses does the company engage in?

*do they have alot of vehicle fleets to carter for any of the options available?

*what time are they willing to sacrifice, for any of the options or alternatives presented?

*do they use their vehicles just for field trips or visits where they don't haul alot of goods?

3. The 1TR can be used in such applications, but the problem would be that of trust here.
The power/torque outputs of the 1TR can't be compared to the 2TR, or a 5VZ engine.
It's just similar to what we've with the 1ZZ and 2ZZ. Some mechanics or spare parts sellers can sell a 1TR(ZZ) engine for you, claiming to be the stock engine.

What happens when you installed the engine, and the client takes delivery of the truck, and some days later, the vehicle can't pull or carry the load it had been pulling or carrying before?

That would dent your reputation here. The client would think you've shortchanged them, and bought something of a lesser capacity.

You can only do a 1TR, only if the client agrees to that in writing, or if the vehicle usage would only be used for in town drives without much load.

4. I like the 5VZ, has got much torque too, for various applications.


Regards

nurey:


You are just showing us free advert without showing us how it was done, doesn't mean your secret or livelihood would be in jeopardy.

left for me, I won't patronize you because for all I care you could be a middleman taking kazeems glory or you may have done a shody job in the conversion and don't want critics to know.

my advice is for you to always be proud of yourself and task yourself in been better, because we learn everyday.

my humble opinion

Yeah, you're right, I could be a middle man though. I did state in some of the article that WE, and not I abeg o! I hope you know it's not possible for only a worker to build a whole house. It maybe possible in some areas, but would take years to complete.

This build was done some years ago. Got no pictures of some of the processes right now. Lost those pictures.

To buttress further, please always read in-between the lines please.
I can never know ALL THINGS. It's not possible,and that's why this job or project was a teamwork.

Next when we do another project, we'd try and include pictures of other processes.

Any questions you have as regards the job, let me know. I'd try my best answering them.

Does this somehow answer your concerns now?

Appreciate your inputs too though.

kingreign:

Nice work you did Bro.


Hope you also upgraded the brakes...

The brake may be quite insufficient for the new power plant and we all know that's a suicide to drive such trucks with such engines.

Did only the suspension systems though.
I'd have to take a look at the newest version hikuxes around here, especially the ones with the SR5 and see how the brake calipers are.

Thanks for this observations sir!

Automotech1:

Was there any constructions done? Or its a straight swap?

Sure there were so e constructions done. For instance, the engine mounts we got, were straight from the 4Runner; transmission bellhousing was swapped with that of the 4Runner, but we did used the transmission system of the stock 2TR.

It isn't a straight swap.

Please feel free to ask questions here. Would try my best to answer them.

Here's a clearer front and plan view of the engine.
The parts of this engines are cheap, compared to the stock 2TR that came with this Hilux, and also durable and reliable.

Here's the Hilux pick-up truck.

If you've got a Hilux truck mechanically"dead", and you can't afford a replacement engine because of the cost for now, there's another alternative, that would take care of your needs.

A direct fitted 2TR Japanese replacement engine, costs about #1.7million naira right now in the market.

The 5VZ-FE can be perfectly swapped into any vehicle applications, including this Hilux we did some 4years ago.

There are no limitations to the pickup platforms this can be done on. Although, from our experiences, the automatic swaps, initially took us some time before we finally got it perfected. Most of the swaps though we have done, have manual transmission systems, making them a little easy compared to the automatics.

Although for this company, a cargo carrying one, the initial engine, had been bastardized from their in-house workshop, and they just didn't want to go through the hazzles of getting another engine, which could develop engine problems in the near future.

After the project, it has only been oil changes, and brake jobs, because it has been a cargo pick-up with deliveries to up North, and the Niger Delta regions.

If you want something similar, please hit me up via my contact details on my signature.


Regards,
Joseph

I don't think #500k is worth it.
You can get 2000-2002 Pathfinders at almost that price(I meant, driveable ones).
You can get the steering issues sorted out, and you've a vehicle to use for sometime if you want to.
Sometimes, it's not just getting latest model vehicles that is the problem.

What other symptoms are you getting?
2. Any check engine light lit on the dashboard, including a CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM light?
3. What repairs have you attempted to fix this problem?
4. Does the hybrid pack blower fan behind the rear seats continuously blows(you hear noises like a blower fan humming)?
5. Does the car's AC system work,, or not?
6. Please endeavor to respond to these questions.
These would better help us help you.


Regards,
Joseph

How can this be an iron block here na?
The pictures here are not for 03, and this engine does not have iron block. They are all aluminum.
Except you are referring to the 2000 model 4runner.

PS: correct me if I'm wrong pls

Looking at how the substrate (catalyst or honey comb like substance) is clogged.

If you have never seen how a clogged catalytic converter looks like, it's symptoms of failure, and the various options available for it's fix, here's a link of a short thread I started:


https://twitter.com/dw_nig/status/1362862608236347392?s=19

weyreypey:
Show us your workshop.

Ok

dicksonadams. I rebuild myself.

VTEC system shown with their screens clogged.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57KWhGydJFA

That's another one. This switch is located by the engine mount at the passenger side right.

Clogged VTEC system. Look at the screen clogged with debris and dirt's.

Almost all car manufactures, have got this system incorporated in their engines, under different nomenclatures.

Honda for instance, refers to its own as the VTEC system, while, Toyota (VVTi/), and Ford refers to theirs as VTC.

The nomenclatures are not a problem. They all perform the same functions, irrespective of vehicle manufactures.

Their major functions has always been improved fuel economy, and engine performance, by making use of the VTEC (or VVTi, or VTC), in adjusting the intake/exhaust valves of an engine.

HOW TO KNOW A FAULTY HONDA VTECH SYSTEM
1. Sudden loss of power during acceleration. The engine RPM won't go beyond 3000RPM, and above, because the VTEC system isn't kicking in.

2. Check engine light lits on the dashboard, with a P2646 trouble code retrieved.


WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?
1. Low oil level, or dirty oil. Dead oils are embodiments of carbon deposits, and debris, from long duration of use.

2. Clogged VTEC system screens. For this Honda Accord, it has three strainers/screens of the VTEC system, where debris and dirt's easily clogs.

3. Using the wrong kind of engine oil viscosity recommended by Honda, or your manufacturer.
Some oils may not provide the necessary flow pressures(rates) needed by the VTEC system, in adjusting the timings.

4. Chamfered VTEC system wiring harnesses which maybe short-circuited,and/or unplugged connectors, which may lead to power problems to the VTEC switch.


HOW DO YOU FIX THE PROBLEM?
1. Check the level of the oil in the engine, and top up, if it's low.
Always replace engine oil and filter as at when due.
This would keep the valve train, and VTEC system super clean.

2. Visually check the VTEC system harnesses for short-circuit problems.
If the wires checked ok, the problem maybe coming from the VTEC system itself.

3. Time to take up some tools to work. Remove the VTEC components, and check for clogged screens.
Any trace of debris or dirt's on the screens, should be cleaned properly using carb cleaner, or replaced, since they are cheap

4. When replacing the screens, always apply little touch of sealant on the seals before mounting it.



CAUTION:
1. Do not reuse the VTEC components seals, if they already look brittle.
Reusing them would cause oil spills on the rear of the passenger side rear top cylinder.

2. Do not automatically replace a VTEC switch, just because your scanned result showed a rocker arm actuator fault.

3. At every cleaning of the VTEC system screens, always ensure you replace the engine oil and filter at the same time.

4. Always start with the simple things first, before replacing the VTEC switch itself. Things such as visually checking the VTEC wires before replacing the switch.

5. Do not agree to anyone telling you, it's an engine replacement scenario here.



Finally, here are some short videos I did on interpreting the life data of the VTEC system, while I was test driving the car.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GG7M09RUqbA



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnknVNFtl7g

@mayor555.
Here are the options:
1. You can waybill the engine down to Lagos for the rebuild, and subsequent returns

2. If you're not THAT FAR FROM LAGOS, you can drive down, or we book an appointment to have it rebuilt at your location.
Please remember this would come with extra charges, working outside LAGOS.


@homeboy. You're right, but I just made a general statement. Alot of people here, have been calling as regards engine rebuilds. I tell them, as long as their mechanics are competent, and can source for parts, no problems.


@bigx. Out got it the basics explanations perfect. One love dude!