Originality007:



Thank you Mr Joseph, for ur response.

The car is Nigerian use. I bought the car last yr April from someone. I don't really know if person has modified the compressor or not. Even if the person has worked on the engine b4. The mechanic that went with for the inspection b4 buying the car told me , the Engine has never being worked upon b4.
The car has always being shaken right from wen I bought it, wen mechanic say it is a minor thing that I just need to change the engine seat and change the coils. After changing it, the shaking still persist anytime I on the car and put it in gear, it will b shaken. But then The car doesn't turn off wen I on the AC even wen am in the traffic, but suddenly it begin to happen.

I told my mechanic he said I should b using it like that, that very soon the car will set itself. But am not comfortable with it. That is y I put on the nairaland here, if someone can help me out

Absolute bullshit from your mechanic. How will such readjust itself? Guy is shting away from diagnosing the root cause of the problem.

Some questions for you:
1. Have you modified the compressor of your car before, to another one? Have seen some AC techs, condemning ECU controlled compressor, for a manual one, with excuse that the later, works more efficiently. That is wrong, though.

2. Any previous engine work done on the vehicle before now? A weak engine, wont cope with a fully functional AC system, cos of the additional loads on the engine.

3. There is VSV componenet just i think, attached to the intake manifold, with a tiny vacuum pipe attached to it.
Some call it AC vacuum line. If the VSV sensor itself is bad, or there is a vacuum leak on the line, you will get this problem.

4. Is this vehicle a Nigerian use, or ?

5. Can you furnish us with some of the history of this problem? I believe you must have tried fixing it somewhere else before.


Hope this helps you.


Regards,
Joseph

Emekayoung:

How can he increase his slow when it's electric throttle?

He can actually increase the idle running of the car, if he wants to. There is a provision for that, on the accelerator pedal of the car.

froshbuddy:
Please do you handle brake system? My Camry 2000 brake master and ABS was changed but still feels brakeless. If yes, please share you contact, as it's not on your profile.

Yes, i do.
Contacts are in my signature.

dicksonadams:
how do you know if the cam gear being purchased is defective?

Via parr numbers

fk002:


Good morning sir, is it advisable to just buy another camshaft rather than changing the camshaft gear?

Depends if you are buying them used or brand new. If buying used, the complete camshaft would be economical. But you got to maje sure the camshaft gear itself is not the same defective type from the donor vehicle.

Kokomo:
Can you rebuild or know someone that can? Also how about the cost implication , 2004 accord engine cost 250k at Ladipo , installation witin a day. how does this compares against a rebuild? CC nuey , deportivo and trygo

I rebuild engines,, with a year warranty.

jceesquare:

So it doesn't run dry on 1st start. But leaving it soaked in oil for a whole day is an overkill to me though. Better safe than sorry sa.

Yes

aieromon:


What is the reason for this?

Resln for this is to prevent damaging the internal mechanism in the camshaft gear, as a result of it being bone dry feom the factory as it is brand new. Hope you understand thatstarting an engine component, especially the valve train, without oil, would wear out the components much faster?

Another reason nis that the camshaft gear comes from the factory LOCKED. So it is recommended by toyota or other brands, to have the gear unlocked, using pressurised air, to prevent that sudden rattling noise you may hear on the first start if the engine after inatallation.

If you got no access to compressed air in the shop, a sime alternayive i use is to soak in oil for a day; and when you come to install, immdiately you insert the solid camahft rod into the keyway opening of the camshaft gear,, it is always easily hand twisted clockwise to unlocked it.

T

Image showing the new camshaft gear replaced.

The camshaft gear, soaked in engine oil before installation

The new camshaft gear ordered from ebay, here, after it was left soaked for a day in 5W-30 engine oil.

The only two parts replaced

B

New and old timing chain damper (top). The old one had a broken plastic damper, which increased the rattling noise to such a scary level. Always inspect this part, when replacing the camshaft gears.

This shows the engine valvetrain exposed, the intake camshaft gear installed.

The 2012 Toyota Venza 1AR engine with hood opened

Case Study of fixing a cold start uprattle noise on a VENZA TOYOTA 1AR 4 cylinder engine.

I have had encounters with some of these engine types, found on some Rav4s, and even on the 2012 camry. 2ARs.
The noise on cold start is just so terrible and annoying.
The major cause of this noise is as a result of defect. In the INTAKE CAMSHAFT gears in these engines.

You can opt to replace on the intke camshaft gear, or better still, if i will advise, is to replace both the intake and exhaust camshaft gears, in pairs.

For this particular Venza, it was for a user on NL, who i encouraged to purchase a brand new camshaft gear, including the timing chain upper damper,on ebay, instead of risking using old or used part from the open market, as a replacement part.

Everything costs the client, about close to #250'000, just in parts, without labour, and an ~ 2_3 weeks delivery to Nigeria.

onlinediva:

Here is a short update guys!

For the matrix, the "emergency surgery", could not save the transmission.
The reason being that the transmission was left to have deteriorated to the point it was.
According to the car owner, she thought when ut started with a sort of shudder, it will disappear on its own.

PS: Make it a point to seek for 'medical' help, when you observe any unususalities with your vehicle's performance.
Early attacks on a tumor, with the right information, can prevent the spread of cancer to other parts of the body.


*Joseph*

Scan the car first

Digital meter used to perform resistance, continuity tests.
Always carry this out, to eliminate electrical issues.

These are some of the switches(non solenoid) on display

The transmission valve body fully on display

The valve body removed, with the pan

U250E transmission(13pin), transmission valve body exposed with the pan already removed.

Case study two, is a Toyota Matrix 2009, with transmission issues too.

Complaints was that when vehicles comes to a traffic stop, there feels a terrrible shudder from the bonnete area, as though the transmission is about to fall off. It is that feeling of being rear ended (as though somebody hit you from behind). It is such a terrifying experience. At that point, the transmission reengages itself again, and everything smoothens out.

Scanning this vehicle, we retrieved the following codes:

1. P0016. This relates to a misalignment of the timing chains on the crankshaft and camshafts.

2. P0746. This relates to the transmission problem customer complained about.
It is basically a hydraulic line pressure control problem,where the SLT solenoid, acts as the upstream fluid source(this time not functional), that discharges its 'tributaries' downstream to replenish the transmission bands, clutches, brakes and so on.

A blockage, or malfunction on the part of this solenoid valve, would starve other solenoids lime the SL1, SL2, etc from accessing transmission fluids, necessary to pressurise, and make the transmission's engagement smoother.

The Fix:
1. Transmission fluid drained, with the transmission filter removed cause it was clogged.

2. Performed voltage, resistance and continuity tests of the solenoids, and their wire harnesses for signs if shorts or open circuit proems.
During these tests, using a digital voltmeter, it was observed that the suspect solenoid, SL1-A, was within range, but on voltage application, plunger of the solenoid moves slowly instead of faster. Solenoid was not ok. Got to replaced it.
But the suprising thing discovered was, on testing the resistance of the SLT solenoid, it was within spec tol, but performing voltage test, showed it was stuck, and somewhat shorted internally.

Continuity teats between the solenoid +ve and -ve terminals to ground, and wire harness to geound also checked out perfect.

3. Replaced the transmission filter also in this case, like I did for the ES350 transmission.

4. After individually servicing the kther somenoids, and replacing the failing ones, SLT, and SL1, before installation of the valve body, apply a thin light silicon grease to the checkball, and spring, in order to hold them in place. Without doing this, it will be difficult to mount the valve body easily.

5. Lightly applied transmission fluid to the rubber seal on the transmission filter before installing it, and securing it firmly by torquing the 3* 10mm bolts.

6. Applied silicon seal on the transmission pan, and tightened the pan. Allowed it to set for about 5 hours, before a new 4 liter WS transmission fluid was introduced.

7. Reset the memory, and prepared the vehicle for adaptive test drive, where the ECU, relearns the operation of the transmission.
Disconnecting the battery terminals, and reconnecting it back, will not reset the system.



Regards,
Joseph

The SL2 solenoid was the one replaced, in this case.
It is the second, from left, with the brown connector.
You identify this one by the 4 number of slots or ports inline with the solenoid's connector.

Had to remove the solenoids individually, for cleaning. This helps with organizing them, so that they do not get mixed up. They somehow look similar too.

U660E transmission valve body, with the solenoid wire harnesses being visually checked for fragility.
If one can, I will prefer to replace a failing senoid, than totally having the whole unit replaced