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Thermostat - Car Talk - Nairaland

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My Experience With Thermostat Removal / Is There Any Advantage Of Disconnecting Car Engine Temperature Thermostat? / Is It Good To Remove Thermostat To Stop Overheating? (2) (3) (4)

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Thermostat by ocphilip(m): 6:28am On Oct 07, 2012
Hey friends, I just got a volkswagen golf 4 which was imported from Holland, and it came with a thermostat, between the radiator and engine to pre-heat in d radiator water or so. When I'm driving, I notice that it rises the engine temperature till about half of the temperature gauge, then stops there. The engine temperature hardly changes from that point, thus showing that the thermostat works. But all the mechanics I meet are strongly advicing me to remove it. Pls I need your advice
Re: Thermostat by myke20: 10:11am On Oct 07, 2012
Don't mind them. I drive a toyota camry and mine does like dat too. It only gets to d half point and does not move beyonf dat point. I fink @ dat point d car has attained its optimum temp and can function well cos I have nt had issues wif ma own. Mine activates @ times when d AC is on and switches off itself automatically. So u r safe. Other ideas would be wilcomed pls
Re: Thermostat by Ikenna351(m): 10:23am On Oct 07, 2012
ocphilip: Hey friends, I just got a volkswagen golf 4 which was imported from Holland, and it came with a thermostat, between the radiator and engine to pre-heat in d radiator water or so. When I'm driving, I notice that it rises the engine temperature till about half of the temperature gauge, then stops there. The engine temperature hardly changes from that point, thus showing that the thermostat works. But all the mechanics I meet are strongly advicing me to remove it. Pls I need your advice

Your cooling system is in perfect condition. Don't mind those clowns

Ikenna.
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 11:20am On Oct 07, 2012
Your thermostat's working just fine. The optimum operating temperature is between 86 - 100 degrees celsius. With the gauge in the middle, it's reading approximately 90 degrees celsius, which is normal.

Do NOT allow your "mechanic" to remove the thermostat!! If he does, your engine will over-cool. So it may read close to normal when stuck in slow-moving traffic, however on the highway at constant speeds, the needle will drop to the cold zone. This is dangerous for your engine. Besides the higher than normal fuel consumption, cold oil does not provide adequate lubrication when below 80 degrees.

Cold oil will form sludge, which is a condition whereby condensation mixes with your oil, and dilutes it. Add the excessive fuel a cold engine won't burn, and you have a lethal cocktail in your oil pan. Why do you think oil pump failure is rife in Nigeria? Gear damage. Typically, an engine requires 100 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm. So at 6,000 rpm, 600 psi of oil pressure is required. If your oil pressure drops at high rpm, the first point of failure occurs furthest from the oil pump - the cylinder head. Camshaft/s will seize, and the timing belt will get torn off. If chain-driven, the effects are even worse, the chain may break, or the sprockets will shear teeth.

Worse case scenario, your crank journals and conrod bearings will get starved of oil, resulting in engine knock, in some cases the knock is severe enough to throw a rod through the engine block.

Remove your thermostat at your own peril.

7 Likes

Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 6:03am On Oct 09, 2012
Lol guys who know what they are talking about.....


I should have come to nl 4 advice when my acura kept over heating lol.
Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 10:01pm On Oct 11, 2012
Siena: Your thermostat's working just fine. The optimum operating temperature is between 86 - 100 degrees celsius. With the gauge in the middle, it's reading approximately 90 degrees celsius, which is normal.

Do NOT allow your "mechanic" to remove the thermostat!! If he does, your engine will over-cool. So it may read close to normal when stuck in slow-moving traffic, however on the highway at constant speeds, the needle will drop to the cold zone. This is dangerous for your engine. Besides the higher than normal fuel consumption, cold oil does not provide adequate lubrication when below 80 degrees.

Cold oil will form sludge, which is a condition whereby condensation mixes with your oil, and dilutes it. Add the excessive fuel a cold engine won't burn, and you have a lethal cocktail in your oil pan. Why do you think oil pump failure is rife in Nigeria? Gear damage. Typically, an engine requires 100 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm. So at 6,000 rpm, 600 psi of oil pressure is required. If your oil pressure drops at high rpm, the first point of failure occurs furthest from the oil pump - the cylinder head. Camshaft/s will seize, and the timing belt will get torn off. If chain-driven, the effects are even worse, the chain may break, or the sprockets will shear teeth.

Worse case scenario, your crank journals and conrod bearings will get starved of oil, resulting in engine knock, in some cases the knock is severe enough to throw a rod through the engine block.

Remove your thermostat at your own peril.


LOL. I've read lots of educative posts from Siena and Ikenna on the need to ensure the vehicle thermostat is left alone & not removed by the mechanics. But this particular one is kinda hilarious....while no less educative. As in i'm sure OP will NEVER EVER remove his thermostat. Siena has spelt complete doom for that engine if he tries it. Lol.

@Siena, please can you point out the location of the thermostat (& what it looks like) on a Nissan Primera 1997 model 1.6l engine. (P11 series). Thanks. I suspect the one i drive has had it's thermostat removed coz the fan comes up immediately the engine is switched on early in the morning.
Over the past 3+ yrs i've been driving it fairly constantly, i've noticed the fuel consumption seems a bit much for a 1.6litre engined vehicle, despite the fact that it has a manual transmission & i drive 'carefully' (low rpm & higher gears when possible).

How can it be replaced? & dyu think its something I can do myself? I might start using the car again on a regular soon & fuel is N97/litre cheesy

& is dere any disadvantage of early shifting to higher gears i.e. Driving at low rpms most of the tym?
Re: Thermostat by Martini101(m): 11:51pm On Oct 17, 2012
Op. D Chief witches of federal republic of nairaland autos ,ikenna & siena hav spoken! My candid suggestion is dat car owners should endeavour 2 b alert on things happenin in their cars. D themostart is a gud device lik our car gurus hav rightly said. My last advice is if ur thermostart is still in ur car, u should try 2 keep an eye on d temperature gauge in ur car 2 know when it starts goin abov d middle cos thatz when cars start 2 overheat. Most naija drivers only realize when smoke appear 4rm d bonnet

3 Likes

Re: Thermostat by ken4jj(m): 4:09pm On Oct 18, 2012
@ Siena and Ikenna,

For those of us who have had thier thermostat removed and some construction already done, what should we do? The only time i get my temp guage at half or close to half is only if i drive with AC on a sunny weather. Without AC it neva gets there.

2 Likes

Re: Thermostat by Ikenna351(m): 6:12pm On Oct 18, 2012
ken4jj: @ Siena and Ikenna,

For those of us who have had thier thermostat removed and some construction already done, what should we do? The only time i get my temp guage at half or close to half is only if i drive with AC on a sunny weather. Without AC it neva gets there.

Every moment the vehicle run without the cooling system thermostat, the more the engine wears rapidly. Its just a question of time before the engine goes BAANG!

Aside losing the engine, your car must be running very thirsty. You maynot know, but its happening. You are simply wasting so much money every moment the engine runs. If your car is suppose to cover 900 km with the thermostat at work, then know you that without the thermostat, you cant go beyond 300 km with the same full tank.

I would be worried if my car temperature guage doesn't get to the middle or 90 C, after 10 minutes of idling. I would want it to get up there before the first 3 minutes of starting the car. The faster it gets up there, the safer for the engine and better for your wallet, in terms of fuelling.

If your radiator fans still spin as factory, then you will have no business replacing the fans till thy kingdom come. But if you bypass the factory connection and coneect them to spin constantly once the engine is running, then get ready to be replacing them, every now and then. The radiator fan motors are not designed to spin constantly, just like the Blender motors in our kitchens and our car starter motors.

There is no other option for you to remedy this than to reverse the fans connections to factory and put back a working thermostat.

I have seen so many Nigerians replacing their sudden dead engines, over and over again. Just because of this singular abuse. As long as the cooling system remains in this setting, it will keep killing the engines.

And please, make sure you put in some coolant too in the cooling system. It will make the temperature to rise faster to the optimal engine temperature, lubricates your water pump, prevent the water pump blades from rusting and prevent your engine from corroding. Water alone in the system affects the engine adversely too. At least, mix the coolant with water 50:50. And most importantly, BLEED the system after flushing and refilling it. Otherwise, the system will have airpocket and thus, the engine will overheat.

Ikenna

1 Like

Re: Thermostat by cretin: 7:54pm On Oct 18, 2012
at ikenna/siena...any quick fix or fix at alll for a semi sludged engine?...normally run dino oil, but learnt on some forums that running synthetic oil will cleanse the engine after a while...switched to mobil1 , had improved mpg but my oil pressure lamp flickers sometimes now
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 8:23pm On Oct 18, 2012
cretin: at ikenna/siena...any quick fix or fix at alll for a semi sludged engine?...normally run dino oil, but learnt on some forums that running synthetic oil will cleanse the engine after a while...switched to mobil1 , had improved mpg but my oil pressure lamp flickers sometimes now

Sludge usually occurs if the oil seldom reaches normal operating temperature, either due to frequent, short trips, which means the engine rarely reaches its optimum temperature range. Or like a fair few cars in Nigeria, the engine's running without a thermostat, and the thermo-switch in the radiator bridged, so the electric fan runs constantly. Sludge is formed when condensation mixes with the oil in the oil pan. Minimal engine protection from this lethal cocktail.

You don't state your car make, model, year and engine type. Not all engines will tolerate fully synthetic oil, which is generally thinner. This will get thinner when the engine's warm, and if your engine's high-mileage, thinner oil won't do much good. Thinner oil will increase flow, but reduce pressure.

I would advice you don't run the engine until you've rectified the low oil pressure issue, it won't last long if you ignore that little red light.


#JusticeforAluu4
Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 7:20am On Oct 19, 2012
Siena, this is the thermostat thread i referred to in another topic. My post is about 4 posts above this.
Ikenna, please you can also contribute.

Nissan primera 97/98 model, 1.6litre engine.
-Can I replace the thermostat myself?
-What does it look like?
-Where is it located? There's one iron stuff with two wires (not connected) directly on the engine block. I'm suspecting that's it but not sure.

I've tried google, no luck. Decided to try you guys here before heading to the mechanic.
Thanks.
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 9:12am On Oct 19, 2012
Find Out!:
Siena, this is the thermostat thread i referred to in another topic. My post is about 4 posts above this.
Ikenna, please you can also contribute.

Nissan primera 97/98 model, 1.6litre engine.
-Can I replace the thermostat myself?
-What does it look like?
-Where is it located? There's one iron stuff with two wires (not connected) directly on the engine block. I'm suspecting that's it but not sure.

I've tried google, no luck. Decided to try you guys here before heading to the mechanic.
Thanks.

The thermostat is purely mechanical, there are no electrical connectors.What you've described with two wires is most likely the thermo switch, or coolant temperature sensor. It's easy to replace the thermostat, and it's usually in the lower radiator feed (on the engine). In the 1,6 Nissan Primera, it's located mid-way up the engine block, on the passenger's side. It'll be a bit tight between the engine and the engine bay, but it's high enough for the chassis frame rails not to be obstructive.

It's something you can definitely replace yourself, and should take no more than 10 minutes. Don't forger to top up your coolant once you're done, as you'll lose approx. 40% once you open the thermostat housing. Bleed the system to ensure there are no air locks. This is done by running the engine with the coolant cap off, so air can escape.

For reference, I'm attaching a picture of a thermostat for a Nissan 1,6 I4 DOHC 16V engine, and also a diagram showing the location.






The pipe is arrowed. A couple of thing - fit the thermostat the same way as the old, most will fit either way, but operation will be impeded, make sure you replace the gasket with a NEW one, don't use that black sealer stuff. And don't over tighten the bolts, get them hand tight, and a little pressure to each, that's all. If you go mad on them, you'll snap them in the block.

#JusticeforAluu4
Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 11:52am On Oct 19, 2012
Thanks a lot boss. i'll look at the engine and revert back here if i have any more questions smiley

But what's the significance of the that stuff with two wires? do they have to be connected to something for the thermostat to work?
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 12:44pm On Oct 19, 2012
Find Out!:
Thanks a lot boss. i'll look at the engine and revert back here if i have any more questions smiley

But what's the significance of the that stuff with two wires? do they have to be connected to something for the thermostat to work?

I have no idea what the component with two wires on your engine is, unless you can snap a picture, and post it here. The thermostat is purely mechanical, and does not rely on any electronics to make it work.

#JusticeforAluu4
Re: Thermostat by cretin: 4:02pm On Oct 19, 2012
@siena..the car is an 03 rav4 4wd 130k miles...bought it fresh toks at 100k miles 4 yrs ago, yeah usually do short commutes.....everything was ok till i switched to mobil 1 syn oil a couple of months ago...cos i learnt it has detergent properties and i wanted to clean my engine..the oil got dirty quickly and i changed it at 1k miles when the red light started flickering....after the change..the red light stopped, until about 1400k miles when it started flickering again, i changed it to dino oil [visco 2000] after hearing that the thicker dino oil having more weight will enable the pump work better...but within 400 miles, the light started flickering again!...just changed it to mobil 1 yesterday and it was very dirty..so far the oil light has stopped flickering. intermitently it was throwing a p1349 error code..vvti cam error...- still another symptom of dirt/sludg.......

note i started doing long 240mile trips on a weekly basis just after the first switch to mobil 1.
wud appreciate if you provide me with ur email, so i cud fully answer any more questions u might hv, as i dont want 2 derail this thread.
Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 9:29pm On Oct 19, 2012
Siena:

I have no idea what the component with two wires on your engine is, unless you can snap a picture, and post it here. The thermostat is purely mechanical, and does not rely on any electronics to make it work.

#JusticeforAluu4

Alrite. i'll snap a pic and post here tomorrow morning. But surely, there must be something that'll connect the thermostat to the fans right? Hopefully tomorrow morning, i'll spend some time under the hood.

The first pic you posted (the golden colored stuff inside what looks like springs), is that the thermostat proper?
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 9:45pm On Oct 19, 2012
Find Out!:


Alrite. i'll snap a pic and post here tomorrow morning. But surely, there must be something that'll connect the thermostat to the fans right? Hopefully tomorrow morning, i'll spend some time under the hood.

The first pic you posted (the golden colored stuff inside what looks like springs), is that the thermostat proper?

Yep, the colored photograph depicts the thermostat.

Nothing connects the thermostat to the fan. The thermostat controls coolant flow through the block and radiator.


#JusticeforAluu4
Re: Thermostat by sultaan(m): 9:55pm On Oct 19, 2012
I'm guessing here that your engine had chunks of sludge in it, and when you used Mobile1 some of the debris blocked your oils lines and pickup tube.

Look at this video to understand what you may be dealing with.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KeGxV6kTZXU?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

They will have to remove valve cover to confirm sludge clogging your vvti, at 09:00 in the video, that oil is not getting to the vvti and that is why you have that code.At 00:50 that tube is the pick up that sends oil to the pump, and when the fine mesh is plugged your pump gets no oil so your low oil pressure light comes on. You don't have to remove the valve head, he did it for compression on cyl 4

Solution?
First look in the oil fill if its black, pull valve cover.
Drain engine oil and remove filter.
Try to clean as much sludge as you can out with good solvent like kerosene and toothbrush.
Wipe it dry( try to keep dirt out of engine) cos its flammable.
Drop oil pan clean out with kero(I don't know any readily available solvent in Naija).
Put it all back together, try to get some Seafoam from Nisspart.
Add 1/3 of the can to a fresh engine oil and filter and run engine at idle for 10-15 mins.
Drain and refill with new filter, drive for 1 month/1000miles, add another 1/3(1/2 remaining seafoam) to the engine oil and let it run at idle for 10 min and drain.
Repeat flush with last seafoam after another 1000 miles.Now refill with new filter.


I know you can't do it yourself, the idea is to physically remove as much chunks as you can by hand before using a solvent, and repeating that solvent cleaning every month for 2 months otherwise you are looking at a new engine.Adding the solvent is the wash,you drain then you rinse with dino for a month before you wash and drain again x2
Re: Thermostat by whiteboyswag: 4:50am On Oct 20, 2012
Chai. Am seeeiiiinnngg tinsss.
Re: Thermostat by miccodb(m): 12:19pm On Oct 21, 2012
@siena n ikenna, all your points hold valid for as long as the weather conditions specified for the operation is fine. Demerits of removing thermostats cannot b overemphasized and you too can't agree less that weather conditions r drastically changing. Temperate regions r getting unbearably hotter and if ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊'ll agree this is being catered for more by more recent models of vehicles. Removing the thermostat from a 2010 avensis will definitely be as detrimental as ikenna and sienna explained but I can confidently tell ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ otherwise for a 92 mazda. When these older cars were made temperature specifications hadnot soared and manufacturers didn't cater for temperate regions adequately. Manufactures of cars in 199e didn't envisage maiduguri would get this hot!!! What kind of temperature regulation can a mazda 92 on full load of both transmission and aircon offer to such temperature? Combustion alone causes a lot of heating hence requirement of cooling system. My brodas I've analysed this thermostat thing for years n researched it n my conclusion is let us know the exact car n model before ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ try to remove thermostat and there must be an underlying symptom or issue that ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ feel thermostat removal will resolve. These theories we all know attimes don't pan out exactly that way in practical. Removing your thermostats just means ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ have said to your engine don't restrict the flow of cool water around my cylinder and that's if thers any cool water at all due to the climate and d cooling efficiency of the system. The theories by siena and ikenna hold perfectly for ideal cars and systems. After all we know d ideal gas equation isn't for all gases but only ideal gases n likewise siena's implications. This is my bit.
Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 12:56pm On Oct 21, 2012
^^^ Bro, cars built pre-'90 still operated in countries much hotter than in Nigeria, and had thermostats. Nevada is roasting, compared to Nigeria, yet they run thermostats. The same goes for Australia, the Middle East, Arizona etc.

My mom's old Peugeot 504 GL retained it's thermostat all through it's life. I was about 13-years-old when our mechanic at the time was going to remove the stat. I stopped him, we even had a big row about it, he didn't like the idea of a kid telling him what to do. He was trying to solve an overheating issue.

The basic definition of a thermostat in any application remains the same -
"A device to keep the temperature it controls at a pre-determined level, regardless of ambient temperature." So the external temperature has no bearing on the controlled temperature. This is not my opinion, it's the law of Physics. In Russia and Poland, whereby ambient temperatures can drop as low as -32 degrees during winter, the coolant still runs at between 86 - 102 degrees (dependent on the thermostat value). By your analogy, these engines should be running just above freezing!

The overheating in my mom's Peugeot 505 GL turned out to be a clogged radiator, which the "mechanic" had been topping up with water each service! My dad bought me a basic tool kit, with which I removed the rad, reverse-flushed, re-installed and filled with a 50/50 coolant-water mix. It never overheated again, and from then on, I took over the servicing and repair of all our automobile, at the age of thirteen.

Yes, even at that age, I read automobile journals which my dad purchased for me, and I knew how the cooling system of an engine worked, what the components were and their relative role in keeping the engine at its optimum operating temperature range.


#JusticeforAluu4

3 Likes

Re: Thermostat by Ikenna351(m): 6:14pm On Oct 21, 2012
miccodb: @siena n ikenna, all your points hold valid for as long as the weather conditions specified for the operation is fine. Demerits of removing thermostats cannot b overemphasized and you too can't agree less that weather conditions r drastically changing. Temperate regions r getting unbearably hotter and if ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊'ll agree this is being catered for more by more recent models of vehicles. Removing the thermostat from a 2010 avensis will definitely be as detrimental as ikenna and sienna explained but I can confidently tell ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ otherwise for a 92 mazda. When these older cars were made temperature specifications hadnot soared and manufacturers didn't cater for temperate regions adequately. Manufactures of cars in 199e didn't envisage maiduguri would get this hot!!! What kind of temperature regulation can a mazda 92 on full load of both transmission and aircon offer to such temperature? Combustion alone causes a lot of heating hence requirement of cooling system. My brodas I've analysed this thermostat thing for years n researched it n my conclusion is let us know the exact car n model before ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ try to remove thermostat and there must be an underlying symptom or issue that ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ feel thermostat removal will resolve. These theories we all know attimes don't pan out exactly that way in practical. Removing your thermostats just means ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ have said to your engine don't restrict the flow of cool water around my cylinder and that's if thers any cool water at all due to the climate and d cooling efficiency of the system. The theories by siena and ikenna hold perfectly for ideal cars and systems. After all we know d ideal gas equation isn't for all gases but only ideal gases n likewise siena's implications. This is my bit.

My Peugeot 505 V6 is 1987 production. I stay in Abuja, which can be damn hot during dry weather ( ask those that leave in Abuja). My temperature guage has always remain at 90 C. Still have the original thermostat, I believe. And in October last year, I converted the viscous/mechanical radiator fan to electric and connected it to be triggered on by the radiator sensor. The fan only switches on when the car is in traffic jam and the temp gauge tries to exceed 90 C and will drop and remain at 90 C again, but will drop to 85 C as soon the car starts moving again. The car has never overheated, with the thermostat and electric fan auto-start setting. Even with all the high degree C temp in Abuja. Am not forgotten to add that my windows have always been up. AC 24/7. Both in traffic jam and while in motion, no overheating with AC on, no matter how hot the weather is.

I used my car as an example because you said old car engines weren't designed to run with thermostat in hot climate regions. I have a friend in Canada that have four 505s and one 504. He said they do get 45-47 degree C in Canada, yet they all still run their old cars there with their thermostat intact. Anyone here that lives in Canada, correct me if i just told a lie.

Thermostat removal is a mindset thing in Nigeria. A theory people chose to believe in. Of course, i was once confused like everyone else, until i got my 505 v6, brought out the thermostat, tested it, put it back and realised how foolish i was to ever doubted the people that manufactured the car and put the thermostat in there for a purpose. Well, I learnt a lesson from my foolishness: " DON'T BELIEVE EVERTHING YOU READ!"

Ikenna.

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Re: Thermostat by miccodb(m): 8:02pm On Oct 21, 2012
@ sienna, removing your thermostat doesn't make it run just above freezing point cos it aint possible in nigeria. Combustion temperatures alone will take it to abot 50 degrees before we start to talk about ambient temp. No doubt sienna ambient temp plays a lot n hence d original design of thermostat. I believe d original design of thermostats were for the actic regions where temperatures dip so low to even freeze d liquid hence thermostats would shut completely until the coolant around the cylinders reached optimum operating temperatures but wen reverse I'd the case the thermostatwould remain virtually open all d tym.
@ ikenna pls bring ur 505 to lagos leave VI by 5pm and head to egdeda or iyanapaja if ur engine doesn't overheat den we can have dis argument again. Traffic pass traffic n btw it isn't wen ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ start running ur engine dat overheat start but idling for over 3hrs with aggressive driving and soaring temp oga ur 505 will overheat on AC. I've also tested thermostats in boiling water; the technology is quite simple but that's not the optimim technology obtaiable for all regions. People tweak cars for various reasons!
Re: Thermostat by Ikenna351(m): 9:35pm On Oct 21, 2012
miccodb: @ sienna, removing your thermostat doesn't make it run just above freezing point cos it aint possible in nigeria. Combustion temperatures alone will take it to abot 50 degrees before we start to talk about ambient temp. No doubt sienna ambient temp plays a lot n hence d original design of thermostat. I believe d original design of thermostats were for the actic regions where temperatures dip so low to even freeze d liquid hence thermostats would shut completely until the coolant around the cylinders reached optimum operating temperatures but wen reverse I'd the case the thermostatwould remain virtually open all d tym.
@ ikenna pls bring ur 505 to lagos leave VI by 5pm and head to egdeda or iyanapaja if ur engine doesn't overheat den we can have dis argument again. Traffic pass traffic n btw it isn't wen ‎​U̶̲̥̅̊ start running ur engine dat overheat start but idling for over 3hrs with aggressive driving and soaring temp oga ur 505 will overheat on AC. I've also tested thermostats in boiling water; the technology is quite simple but that's not the optimim technology obtaiable for all regions. People tweak cars for various reasons!


Sometime last year, i travelled with my 505 v6 to East from Abuja. 3 days later, i drove off again back to Abuja. By the time i reached Gwagwalada, Hell was let loose (though was expecting it). That was when it was still single lane. I spent more than 2 hours in tdaffic jam. The traffic was barely moving. This was a car that had done about 600 km, non stop and got stucked in a traffic jam with the engine still running (didnt switch off-i dont switch off my engine till i get to my destination, i dont stop to eat, unless to refuel, thats my dont on highway). This was a car the engine was on, on top speed for close to 7 hrs. Yet it got stucked for more than two hours, the engine was never off the whole time in the hold up, yet the temp guage remained at 90 C, and of course, my windows were up. They dont come down, most especially at that time of the day in Abuja, dead hot. So, you tell me, was my case a miracle?

Last Easter break, i took off with my 605 v6 to East, to spend the holiday there, which was on 06/04/2012. I got to the the same Gwagwalada around 6:30 am. Unexpectedly, the hold up was the worst i never experienced in my live. Those in Abuja that travelled that day or last Easter break will bear witness. The traffic wasnt even moving at all. Like i said, my engine was on idling throughout the time i spent on that hold up, because i dont switch off my engine whenever i am driving long distance, unless i stop to refuel or get to my destination. Drinks and snacks are always at reach on passengers seat, taken when on the move. I passed Gwagwalada around 10 am, meaning, my car engine was running or idling for about 3 and half hours. To cut the story short, i got to Lokoja around 2pm or after. When i got to East, i learnt from phone call the next day that some people slept on the Lokoja-Abuja highway, because of that traffic Jam along that highway, meaning i was lucky because i left house early.

The point in these stories above is to tell you is not only in Lagos that we have hold ups in Nigeria, on daily basis. It just to prove to you that i have experienced terrible traffic jams, with hot weather, AC on, for hours, yet the tenperature guage remained at 90 C. The moment you break from this mindset of average Nigerians about thermostat, thats when your learning starts. Like i said earlier, i was there before. You just chose to remain there.

Ikenna.

4 Likes

Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 9:45pm On Oct 21, 2012
miccodb: @ sienna, removing your thermostat doesn't make it run just above freezing point cos it aint possible in nigeria. Combustion temperatures alone will take it to abot 50 degrees before we start to talk about ambient temp. No doubt sienna ambient temp plays a lot n hence d original design of thermostat. I believe d original design of thermostats were for the actic regions where temperatures dip so low to even freeze d liquid hence thermostats would shut completely until the coolant around the cylinders reached optimum operating temperatures but wen reverse I'd the case the thermostatwould remain virtually open all d tym.

I never said a car would run just above freezing in Nigeria, that was a tongue-in-cheek comment (me being sarcastic). I said by your analogy, cars in Poland or Russia will run above freezing in winter, just as you feel a car in Nigeria will overheat if the thermostat is left in place. As in you say ambient temperature regulates the coolant, despite the thermostat doing just that - keeping the coolant temperature constant.

You said this
"I believe d original design of thermostats were for the actic regions." I'm pleased to see you used the term "I believe." Because your analogy here is flawed right from the start. A thermostat is designed to maintain temperature of a controlled fluid or gas at a preset value, regardless of ambient temperatures.

The thermostatic value for a Volga (Russian-built for Russia) is 86 degrees.
The thermostatic value for a Peugeot 504 / 505 (Nigerian-built for Nigeria) is 88 degrees (PAN cars were built in HOT Kaduna, yet these had thermostats!)
The thermostatic value for a Toyota Kijang (Indonesian-built for the far East only) is 88 degrees.
The thermostatic value for a Ford Mustang (North-American-built for Canada and the US, inc. boiling Nevada!) is 89 degrees.

From these examples, we can see that coolant temperature in a modern car at its optimum between 85 - 100 degrees, regardless of the region the engine's designed for!

The optimum operational temperature for engine oil (yes, it is related, as an engine block with coolant at 90 degrees can't have oil with more than +/-4 degrees) is 85 degrees. Below 70 degrees (which it will be with no control over coolant flow, i.e no thermostat) oil is pretty useless in doing what it was designed to do. This is where sludge becomes an issue, oil flow and pressure are reduced, oil pump failure is iminent, and the result? Worn-crank journal bearings, camshaft bearings, big-end bearings and a dead turbo if applicable.

I know you directed your challenge at Ikenna, but I feel I should respond there. I've had purpose-built track cars, running in excess of 400 whp (approx. 355 crank). Now track days are run through the summer, combined with a punishing circuit, high rpm, high power output, and yeah, a standard thermostat from a road-going car. I've had 4-hour sessions, whereby the car is pushed beyond any limits you would ever reach on the open road, and have never suffered over heating. Over heating on an engine with a thermostat can only come from within, not the surrounding air.

My brother lives in Boulder, Colorado. He runs a 2008 Dodge Ram as well as a 1974 Ford Mustang. Both have thermostats, and the climate in Colorado exceeds that of Northern Nigeria. Twisty, switch-back roads up in the mountains also mean the going is sometimes slow, with cars seldom geting up to 40 mph, and the lower gears mostly used. The Dodge Ram is used to tow a 32-foot trailer often, when he takes the Mustang to Classis trials. So every ingredient for the cars to overheat, with their thermostats in place, but they never do.

There are various components in the engine that are modified for different regions, the most common being altitude. The altitude sensor on a car destined to be used 400m above sea level will be different from one for use 100m. That's the variable. Oil and coolant temperature have an optimum value, regardless of where the car is destine for. The only thing that you can vary with regards to this, is the coolant type, and the weight / viscosity of the oil your engine needs. This is why the Owner's Manual will give different oils based on the domestic market, as well as a couple of others for export countries.

The biggest issues with automobile used in Nigeria, with regards over heating, is the maintenance culture. Most cars are run on plain water, with no coolant. Water on its own has a lower boiling point than coolant, and also gives rise to scale and rust formation within the engine. As we all know, rust is minute metal particles, that will lower the boiling point further, damage the water pump impellar, and the system will literally boil. Nothing to do with the thermostat. The thermostat is removed, the electric fan is rigged to run constantly, the much-coveted "double cell" radiator is installed, and the original over heating problem is masked, not solved. Of course, the new radiator is filled to the brim with plain water, in most cases.


You think it's just a fluke perfectly fuel-efficient automobile are shipped to Nigeria, and suddenly, a 2008 Toyota Corolla 1,6 has consumption figures that could rival a Mercedes-Benz ML 430? Go through the threads that spring up on a weekly basis on Nairaland, with owner / drivers complaing of fuel thirst that would put a Cessna 180 to shame. And read responses, including questions that they were asked (and their responses too), in a bit to help them get out of the red, and back into the black.

#JusticeforAluu4

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Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 10:27am On Oct 22, 2012
Siena:

Yep, the colored photograph depicts the thermostat.

Nothing connects the thermostat to the fan. The thermostat controls coolant flow through the block and radiator.


#JusticeforAluu4

B0oss, sorry for replyin this late. had a busy weekend. so, i think i've been able to identify the location of the thermostat based on the diagram you gave me. i had cause to visit the car's mechanic (fairly trusted) for servicing (changing of oil n oi filter) later that day, so i told him of my intention to have the thermostat working again. naturally he initially said its not necessary, and proceeded to 'educate' me (saying most of what miccodb has just said here). I told him, you kno what, lets try it first, if it overheats (which i'm sure it wouldnt), then i'll consider a reversal back to the current state. but due to time, we've agreed on:

-we fix a date, i take d car to him, stay with him (as always), he checks if the thermostat is still there and working, we arrange the connections back so it works with the fan. if not working / not there at all, we check for the part number and purchase another (can anyone give me an idea how much it costs? Ikenna?).


even he was not too sure initially where it's located, but i pointed it out to him. this is it right?

Re: Thermostat by Nobody: 11:08am On Oct 22, 2012
^^^ That looks like the thermo switch, that switches on the fan, when the pre-set temperature is reached.

Thermostats are dirt cheap - I've just replaced the one in my Audi S8 (4,2 V8) engine, and it cost me £6,20. I would advice you buy a brand new one, and a new thermo switch too.
Re: Thermostat by FindOut(m): 12:15pm On Oct 22, 2012
Siena: ^^^ That looks like the thermo switch, that switches on the fan, when the pre-set temperature is reached.

Thermostats are dirt cheap - I've just replaced the one in my Audi S8 (4,2 V8) engine, and it cost me £6,20. I would advice you buy a brand new one, and a new thermo switch too.

kk. So the thermostat can be accessed by loosening those nuts right?

This is the other stuff i told you about (with two unconnected wires) that i felt was the thermostat earlier.

Mech said it has to do with the catalyst (catalytic converter) on the exhaust. He also said the catalyst has likely ''burnt out'' being an ''old car'' (possible??), and that may account for the increased fuel consumption. I'm aware of the relationship btwn fuel consumption & catalytic converter. But then,

1) i believe if a car's catalytic converter is absent, the engine sound will be rough especially on acceleration. The primera's engine is relatively smooth at idle n acceleration, so i feel its still dere. Is dere a way to actually detect its presence (as in if its still working)?

2)even if it isn't i doubt if i'll be able to get a replacement coz that stuff is one expensive vehicle part here. For the average car, based on my observations and enquiries from mechanics and users, u r looking at between N30k - 40k for a catalytic converter (popularly referred to as catalyst). How does the price compare in the UK?


*hope i'm not derailing thread.*

When the thermostat - fan connection has been put back to normal, i'll be sure to come back here with my observations.

Re: Thermostat by Ikenna351(m): 1:15pm On Oct 22, 2012
Find Out!:


kk. So the thermostat can be accessed by loosening those nuts right?

This is the other stuff i told you about (with two unconnected wires) that i felt was the thermostat earlier.

Mech said it has to do with the catalyst (catalytic converter) on the exhaust. He also said the catalyst has likely ''burnt out'' being an ''old car'' (possible??), and that may account for the increased fuel consumption. I'm aware of the relationship btwn fuel consumption & catalytic converter. But then,

1) i believe if a car's catalytic converter is absent, the engine sound will be rough especially on acceleration. The primera's engine is relatively smooth at idle n acceleration, so i feel its still dere. Is dere a way to actually detect its presence (as in if its still working)?

2)even if it isn't i doubt if i'll be able to get a replacement coz that stuff is one expensive vehicle part here. For the average car, based on my observations and enquiries from mechanics and users, u r looking at between N30k - 40k for a catalytic converter (popularly referred to as catalyst). How does the price compare in the UK?


*hope i'm not derailing thread.*

When the thermostat - fan connection has been put back to normal, i'll be sure to come back here with my observations.

Holy crap!

Why would someone cut off the connection to the oxygen sensor? angry These human beings called Nigerian mechanics and rewires!

85% of cars in Nigeria with overheating problems are caused by air lock, which eventually will lead to air pocket, which causes the overheating. Average Nigeria mechanic does not know that cooling system must be bled, whenever the system is opened or flushed. Air, of course will get trapped and will cause all kinds of overheating issues to the system, if not removed or bled. Instead of the mechanics to findout the cause of the overheating, they will choose the easy way out, by removing the thermostat and connecting the fans to spin constantly. Yes, it will appear as if the problem have been solved. But as soon as you get stucked in traffic jam, with heavy load like AC on, the bubbles or air in the system will deal with your engine, mercilessly.

Whatever you do, make sure you bleed the cooling system after replacing or putting back the thermostat. Otherwise, you are back to square one. Good luck.

Ikenna.
Re: Thermostat by sultaan(m): 2:20am On Oct 23, 2012
Find Out!:


B0oss, sorry for replyin this late. had a busy weekend. so, i think i've been able to identify the location of the thermostat based on the diagram you gave me. i had cause to visit the car's mechanic (fairly trusted) for servicing (changing of oil n oi filter) later that day, so i told him of my intention to have the thermostat working again. naturally he initially said its not necessary, and proceeded to 'educate' me (saying most of what miccodb has just said here). I told him, you kno what, lets try it first, if it overheats (which i'm sure it wouldnt), then i'll consider a reversal back to the current state. but due to time, we've agreed on:

-we fix a date, i take d car to him, stay with him (as always), he checks if the thermostat is still there and working, we arrange the connections back so it works with the fan. if not working / not there at all, we check for the part number and purchase another (can anyone give me an idea how much it costs? Ikenna?).

even he was not too sure initially where it's located, but i pointed it out to him. this is it right?

This is why I ask people to take pictures of their engine and post it.

Apart from the O2 sensor that has been hacked, the coolant temp sensor, has been disconnected.If ow your thermometer is working, your fuel economy will be really bad then there is a hose with the clamp that has been taken from somewhere.

You can post more pics from other angle/side of engine.

If you can find another car like yours, you'll see what has been done by comparing both engines

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