cretin: you might have air in the system...also confirm if you are using coolant or ordinary water in ur radiator

Siena:

When you say the mechanical fan has been bridged to work immediately the engine's started, are you referring to the viscous fan, that's driven via a belt?

willn1:
Changed the clutch(mech call it engine) for d fan and now the car goes like a 3.5ltr engine should. So the extra load from d fan was significant enough to cause dat much drop in performance. Its a good tin we learn everyday. Tanx a lot!

Ikenna351:

Holy crap!

Why would someone cut off the connection to the oxygen sensor? These human beings called Nigerian mechanics and rewires!

85% of cars in Nigeria with overheating problems are caused by air lock, which eventually will lead to air pocket, which causes the overheating. Average Nigeria mechanic does not know that cooling system must be bled, whenever the system is opened or flushed. Air, of course will get trapped and will cause all kinds of overheating issues to the system, if not removed or bled. Instead of the mechanics to findout the cause of the overheating, they will choose the easy way out, by removing the thermostat and connecting the fans to spin constantly. Yes, it will appear as if the problem have been solved. But as soon as you get stucked in traffic jam, with heavy load like AC on, the bubbles or air in the system will deal with your engine, mercilessly.

Whatever you do, make sure you bleed the cooling system after replacing or putting back the thermostat. Otherwise, you are back to square one. Good luck.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:


Your car is running thirsty because the thermostat was removed. You need to get the thermostat back to the thermostat housing. Test the thermostat before you put it back, i mean the one removed. How to test the thermostat, has been treated here. Find it and read. If you can get a new one, of the same part number or degree celsius removed, better.

Thermostat or no thermostat, has nothing to do with loss of fluid in the cooling system. Thats what the clown should have dealt with, and not removing the thermostat or wondering why it hasnt been removed all the while as "Nigerian used". This thing with Nigerians and thermostat removal theory! What a mindset!

There must be a leakage, that causes the reduction or low fluid in the system. It could be a leaking radiator, worn radiator/expansion bottle cap seal, leaking hose, leaking head gasket, unclamped lines/hoses,etc. Like i said, he needs to find it. If he is not good enough, find a better clown or a true mechanic.



I believe your radiator fans are spinning constantly. Of course, for him to have thought of thermostat in the system as a bad thing, he would see a radiator fan working as factory as weird. So, he would connect them to spin constantly. Dont bother to ask me how i knew, because its what they do. It will sound weird to me if your fans still spin as factory designed. Get those fans back to how the manufacturer of that car designed it.

Also, if you want to get rid of rich running, mix water and coolant in the system 50:50.

And finally, make sure someone bleeds the cooling system, when the whole job is done. If not, the system, including the engine, will overheat like HELL! Goodluck.

Ikenna

Funjay:



Please Bros, tell us how to bleed the system. If u have good mechanics we can visit, kindly let us know.

My golf 3 i just got reads above 100 degrees,it reads around 110 bf fan kicks in and the goes back to 100 degrees ,but i noticed ,ones i get into traffic the temperature goes higher than 110 degrees.
My mechanic advised i remove the thermostat but i refused ,instead i asked him to run the fan direct.
Do you think it ok that way ? with the thermostat still intact in the engine?
Can you advise pls
thank you





Your thermostat's working just fine. The optimum operating temperature is between 86 - 100 degrees celsius. With the gauge in the middle, it's reading approximately 90 degrees celsius, which is normal.

Do NOT allow your "mechanic" to remove the thermostat!! If he does, your engine will over-cool. So it may read close to normal when stuck in slow-moving traffic, however on the highway at constant speeds, the needle will drop to the cold zone. This is dangerous for your engine. Besides the higher than normal fuel consumption, cold oil does not provide adequate lubrication when below 80 degrees.

Cold oil will form sludge, which is a condition whereby condensation mixes with your oil, and dilutes it. Add the excessive fuel a cold engine won't burn, and you have a lethal cocktail in your oil pan. Why do you think oil pump failure is rife in Nigeria? Gear damage. Typically, an engine requires 100 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm. So at 6,000 rpm, 600 psi of oil pressure is required. If your oil pressure drops at high rpm, the first point of failure occurs furthest from the oil pump - the cylinder head. Camshaft/s will seize, and the timing belt will get torn off. If chain-driven, the effects are even worse, the chain may break, or the sprockets will shear teeth.

Worse case scenario, your crank journals and conrod bearings will get starved of oil, resulting in engine knock, in some cases the knock is severe enough to throw a rod through the engine block.

Remove your thermostat at your own peril.