cardoctor:
Automatic gearbox issues have become a reoccuring decimal to any automatic car owner. Slow take off, sluggish acceleration, lack of kick down, loss of drive while in motion, lack of gear change, aggressive gear changes, high engine revs without power in drive just to name a few.

From my observation and the complaints made by some of our customers, these problems usually start from a gearbox oil change that was recommended by the mechanic who then uses the wrong type of ATF oil for the transmission.

Most car manufacturers develop their own ATF formular for their cars.

Honda recommends their own formular ATF-z1 for their gearboxes manufactured between 1998 to 2009 and upgraded to the ATF-Dw1 for gearboxes manufactured from 2010 upwards.

Toyota uses the Type 4 ATF for their cars manufactured between1996 to 2007 and the Toyota WS ATF for ones manufactured between 2007 to present.

Most other car manufactures have also upgraded the type of ATF for their modern cars.

Using the wrong grade of ATF would almost certainly result in a failing transmission. Low grade ATF may not be able to handle the high temperature operations operations of a gearbox. Under very high temperatures, low grade oil loses its fluidity and may begin to boil causing loss of hydraulic functions by frothing or foaming.

Some remedies I have seen used by local mechanics is to further add engine oil to the gearbox in order to thicken the viscosity of the ATF. This in turn puts the pump under great stress as the thicker oil would require more effort from the pump in distributing the oil under high pressure as well as the oil filter which is usually embedded within the transmission gear train. (The removal and changing of all Honda transmission oil filter would require the removal of the gear box from the car and stripping down the gearbox)

The resulting consequence would be an imminent and extreme overheating of the transmission and components such as the friction plates and a rapid degradation of the wet clutch fibres hence the loss of drive, slipping clutch and rough gear changes.

Replacing the gearbox or a total overhaul by an expert would be the likely solution but before then, an inexperienced mechanic would Send you on a wild goose chase by suggesting the removal and servicing or outright replacement of shift solenoids on the outer casing of the gearbox. These solutions Don't last as its just a temporal remedy to a terminal issue.

We constantly repair these gearboxes and those of other makes to a very high standard with 99.9% success rate and we recommend that if you are having serious issues with your automatic gearbox, ensure that the appropriate procedures are followed.



Car-Doctor.

kaeforum:


MANUAL GEARBOX IS THE BEST FOR NAIJA, OUR MECHANICS ARE SIMPLY NOT EQUIPPED TO FIX AUTO GEARS.
OF WHAT USE IS A CAR IF IT CANT LAST UP TO 100,000KM HUH

Kashif:


Your opinion.

kaeforum:

My Honest and sincere opinion based on my personal experience, most of the fairly used cars (especially the Nigerian used ones) advertised on this forum are very neat cars yet offered so cheap, I discovered most of them are automatics and have serious transmission issues that explains why they are offered cheap cos the repair cost apart from being too expensive are not guaranteed to last.

I have nothing against autos, but our mechs still havent figured them out yet, all they do is to dismantle the gear box and persuade you to buy another unit with a 50 percent chance of success.

Kashif:


I agree with this completely, but disagree on manual being the best for everyone in Nigeria. I know many people who will pay anything not to drive a manual.

For sure, auto transmission repair is a nightmare in Nigeria. I have experienced it but, do I wish to drive a stick in Lagos? No way! I spent all the money to be able to still drive the auto. My terrible experience, and the helplessness we all face have prompted me to start looking for solutions.

There is hope in the horizon...

Kashif:


The OP is not expecting the same result from 10pin as 13pin. He has emphasised his desire to get 13pin as soon as economics favours him. He is only scared the 10pin could ruin his engine or maybe, drive train before this happens. The answer is no.

Concerns should be how the ECU interprets control signals and drives the transmission control transducers. If you have a technical prognosis, please share.

pearharbour:
Please doctor... Just got a 2004 Toyota Solara, kindly advice on the ideal oil for the gear and also for the engine. Thanks

obi2ice:


Hey Kashif, car doctor, usAutobuy et al thanks for all your insight on this thread I hope you advise me on my own issues. I have read all previous conversations but I think my problem is slightly different.
My car is a 2005 camry I4, VVTi engine U250 transmission.
I recently replaced the shaft due to the unbearable shaking. I drove the car back to my house which is about 34km from the workshop without issues. Then in my neighborhood I stopped to buy some stuff and started my car shifted to drive I noticed it stalled to engage. Then I drove awhile it revved and then engaged gear 2, to engage gear 3 it revved the engine again to engage. I carefully drove it home. The next morning I tried to drive the car it repeated the same issues of the previous day, then I noticed it doesn’t downshift when I slowed down I have to engage park and then come back to drive. I also noticed engaging reverse there is a jerk which wasn’t the case previously. The next point when I engage drive no traction at all. The gear only moves when I engage reverse. I have taken it to a gear specialist who serviced the valve body but the issue is still there. We changed the oil I always use the recommended Toyota T4. The issue is still present. Please can I get advice on the next step to take. I stay in ABUJA.

billionjoys:
Sienna, Ikenna and other auto wizards Please, I need the full details about the engine of my Golf 3,
The number is 2E161363
The Golf 3,
I got it at Mileage 165000km, with good factory fitted AC, Auto Gear, Power steering, I checked the sit belt it reads 1992. the front windows are press button, the back windows are manual wining.
Recently, I notice that my auto gear slips for like 5 to 10 seconds attimes after slowing down with BREAK when on D drive especially on rough untarred road,
this happens I guess when the engine is warmed up. because it does not happen early in the morning when moving out,
Every other gear works perfectly, the car does not jerk at all.
The car moves smoothly even when shifting gears.
I have changed the ATF with EcoMAx Dexron III, and the filter well cleaned by my mechanic, I was there with him.
I test drove it there and it worked fine.
Since then, this issue became random, like that today, like perfect tomorrow.
Then I called my mechanic, he said the Car will keep getting better with time as the ATF get used by the Car.
Though this is still within a week.
Please, What do I do.

And at the back, the badge is Golf GLI,
what is the implication of this badge.

I also noticed that 20litres of petrol could only take me to 80kilometres

Siena, Car Doctor and other auto wizards, you are doing a great job here, God shall reward you accordingly.

tunnyflow:
Please car doctor and other gurus in the house... I'm planning to buy either a ford focus from 05-08 or a ford mondeo 05-09... apparently I don't know much about the product ford but my friend from Germany said it's a good one... please kindly advice me what to look out for in terms of engine performance.. gearbox durability... availability of parts...

rosco191:
Good day car Doctor, i am based in port harcourt and i am experiencing similar problems with my honda EOD 2005 (i.e violent gear change) i have been using abro because that is what my friend i bought the car from has been using and i wanted to maintain the history.

Please i want to know where i can get the original Honda ATF-Z1 and also where to get a good mechanic to check on my gear box for me.

I will also like to get your contact details

Thank you

cardoctor:


Too bad.

It seem that your mechanics were quick to remove the drive shafts without alowing the gearbox to cool down properly.

Once the drive shafts are removed, cool air passes through the gearbox when the gearbox is still hot. The valve body and other internal components are supercooled causing the solenoids and valves to constrict in their cylinders which would result in stuck movements or lack of adequate pressure to facilitate smooth gear changes.

You may have to replace the valve body.

Car doctor.

cardoctor:


Of all cars. Why a Ford Focus or Mondeo? How many do you see on the road here?

tunnyflow:


I just like the ride and does it mean a car has to be common before you buy it?

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,
I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.
The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.
Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,

I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.

The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.

Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,

I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.

The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.

Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

Kashif:

Flush = risk
Drain and refill = recommended.

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,

I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.

The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.

Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

IdaraCHODB:

This link will absolutely surprise a lot of people as it goes against popular advice, proof that each car and sometimes even each model is different, and when giving advice that needs to be taken into consideration.
Mazda recommends flushing of its transmission and cooler lines, I have evidence also that Honda recommends the same, but Honda is not the subject of your issue, so I am not going to post the relevant service bulletin.
http://miata.net/garage/tsb/05-008-11-2587.pdf
Your vehicle falls under the models 2004 - 2014 except SKYACTIV
We have been doing Mazda for several generations and I have subscription to Mazda Dealer Level Information.
You have allowed that ATF to degrade too much. You must absolutely do something about it! You must absolutely flush that transmission and cooler lines to avoid a transmission change. I see one coming within the next 30,000 miles unless you act swiftly.
Extract:
Automatic Transaxle/Transmission (A/T) oil cooler and lines must be power flushed completely before an over-
hauled or replacement A/T is installed (except SKYACTIV-DRIVE).
The most common cause of repeat A/T failures is lack of lubrication to the front and rear planetary gears. This is usually caused by an accumulation of metal particles and debris (from a previous A/T failure) on the internal mesh type baffle of the oil cooler.
Power
flushing will remove the restriction by back flushing, followed by forward flushing to dislodge a restriction, then back flushing again.
This will in turn ensure full ATF flow for the transmission when it is operating.

USAutoBuy:


With all due respect, you are talking of 2 different things. The guy is not REPLACING the tranny. Bulletin is talking about when a rebuilt tranny or replacement is to be installed.

I stand to be corrected