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Bmw/audi And Nissan Which Is Better And Maintanance Friendly / Why Do Driving Schools Use Volkswagen Beetle To Teach Driving? / Sienas Help And Advice To Eternal05 On The Audi A6 2001 Model. (1) (2) (3) (4)
|The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 2:43pm On Nov 24, 2011|
I'm dedicating this thread to owners of Audi and Volkswagen models. There would appear to be a gap in the Nigerian Auto Industry, with regards to correct repair, diagnosis, service and general maintenance of these cars. I would like to try addressing these issues, as much as I can remotely, from a distance. I don't promise to always get it right, I can but try. Of course, the more details you give, the better.
Please use the format as shown below:
03) Engine size.
04) Transmission type.
05) Model year.
06) Spec (Euro or US).
07) Drive configuration.
As an example, here is how my details will be posted:
03) 4,2L V8 32V.
04 5-Speed Tiptronic.
07) Permanent AWD.
Then give as much detail as possible with regards the issues, if any. Examples shown below:
01) Car difficult to start when hot.
02) Car difficult to start when cold.
03) Car does not start at all (engine cranks, but doesn't fire).
04) Car does not start at all (engine does not crank at all).
05) Car starts, but doesn't idle (needs constant gas pedal pressed).
06) Car starts and runs, but jerks in motion, fuel consumption seems higher than normal.
07) Car starts and runs, but jerks in motion, fuel consumption appears normal.
08) Car doesn't start after long drive, but will start as normal after cooling for over an hour and above.
09) Car starts and drives as normal, but becomes sluggish and jerky once warm.
10) Engine has knock and rattle, gets worse under load (driving).
11) Engine has knock and rattle at idle, less under load (driving).
12) Engine died whilst driving. Noise before it stopped, does not sound normal cranking, or doesn't crank at all.
13) Engine idles lumpy (misfire evident).
14) Check Engine Light illuminated.
15) Fuel consumption has increased, car appears to run and drive as normal.
16) Coolant level keeps dropping, no over heating.
17) Coolant level keeps dropping, engine overheating.
18) Coolant level normal, engine overheating.
19) Black smoke from exhaust.
20) Blue smoke from exhaust, engine performance appears normal.
21) Blue smoke from exhaust, marked drop in engine performance.
22) Grey smoke (steam) from exhaust.
23) Oil in coolant reservoir.
24) Coolant / water (sludge) in oil, evident on dipstick and inside of oil filler cap.
25) Auto transmission doesn't change gear, stays in one gear. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
26) Auto transmission doesn't engage reverse, all forward gears okay. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
27) Auto transmission loses drive once warm. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) NOT illuminated.
28) Auto transmission slips in all gears, engine revs high, road speed doesn't match. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.
29) Manual transmission noisy (noise increases with road speed).
30) Manual transmission slips out of gear (more so when braking).
31) Manual transmission crunches when selecting gears.
32) Manual transmission difficult to select individual gears.
33) Manual transmission impossible to select individual gears.
34) Manual transmission impossible to select ANY gears.
35) Clutch pedal soft, will not return to rest position.
36) Clutch pedal stiff, gear selection difficult.
37) Brake pedal spongy, car difficult to stop.
38) Brake pedal has excessive travel before car stops.
39) Grinding noise when applying brakes from speed.
40) Vibration when applying brakes from speed.
41) Car pulls to one side during sudden sharp (emergency) braking.
42) Knocking from front of car over bumps or rough roads.
43) Knocking from rear of car over bumps or rough roads.
44) Car has excessive "bounce" even over moderate bumps.
45) Car appears lower on one side, even when parked on level ground.
46) Droning noise from wheel area, worse when turning corners.
47) Droning noise from wheel area, less when turning corners.
48) Clicking noise from front wheel, worse when turning corners.
49) Vibration from steering wheel at certain speeds.
50) Aircon blows warm air.
51) Aircon blows cold air, but not from vents.
52) External lights don't work.
53) Cruise control doesn't operate.
54) ABS warning light is on.
55) Airbag warning light is on.
56) Battery keeps going flat, battery warning light illuminated.
57) Battery keeps going flat, battery warning light NOT illuminated.
58) Alarm sounds randomly.
59) Remote key does not work.
60) Central locking does not work.
61) Electric window does not work.
62) Electric mirror does not work.
63) Electric sunroof does not work.
64) Horn does not work, or has random operation.
65) One or more doors fails to unlock.
66) Door open warning on dash illuminated, despite all doors being shut.
67) Hood open warning on dash illuminated, despite hood being shut.
68) Trunk open warning on das illuminated, despite trunk being shut.
69) Poor radio reception.
70) Audio volume adjusts itself randomly.
71) Digital central display on dash dim, worse when warm.
72) Digital central display on dash has broken / missing pixels.
73) Wiper operation very slow, even on high setting.
74) Wiper fuse constantly burns out.
75) Wipes don't operate.
76) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, difficult to start car.
77) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, impossible to start car.
78) Key warning lamp on dash flashing, engine starts, then dies after approximately 2 seconds.
79) Fuel pump noisy (buzzing from trunk / rear).
80) Speedo does not work.
81) Speedo works intermittently.
82) Speedo / dash not illuminated with lights on.
83) No communication with diagnostic equipment via OBD II port.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 4:22pm On Nov 24, 2011|
This thread is also applicable to owners of Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen models.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by web_master: 4:33pm On Nov 24, 2011|
Nice Thread. This would really be useful for me as am planning to purchase an 06 VW Passsat 2.0l I4 FSI. I hope you would be able to assist if i have issues with the car.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 4:42pm On Nov 24, 2011|
Of course I'll be able to help.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by lordimpaq(m): 4:53pm On Nov 24, 2011|
nice one, very nice,
good job by the way, do you by any chance know where one can get an Audi repair manual or service manual?
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by iKoksi(m): 5:24pm On Nov 24, 2011|
This thread is now first step to get my machine sorted out, God bless Sir.
1) A4 Quattro
2) 3.0L V6
3) Trans: Auto
6) Drive Config: P. AWD
50) A/C blows hot air: on driving the car from Lagos to Abuja, I noticed d a/c will blow abit cold while stand still or driving slowly, but at high speed only hot air from vents. @ d moment no longer cold at all. Had d refrigerant flushed and recharged but didn't help. Also bits missing on d A/C unit display.
14) Check Engine illuminated (and almost all other warning signs!)
25) Occationally while on 'D' the PRNDS all illuminates at the same time
06) The car will start and run normally but Occationally jerks in motion, fuel consumption seems high.
The car is a week old, millage @ 20,000. I'll do everything to it back to best performance 'cos I love d machine.
How much will a compatible diagnostic equipment cost, do you have a link to download maintenance manual please?
Many thanks in Anticipation Sir.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Fhemmmy: 5:25pm On Nov 24, 2011|
Beautiful thread and great format . . . keep up the great work
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 6:34pm On Nov 24, 2011|
IKoksi, thanks for submitting your query.
3,0L V6 2 x DOHC 30V, 220 bhp, 300Nm. 2001 - 2005.
Your issues would be as follows:
50) Aircon blows hot air. Possible cause:
A) Faulty pressure switch. This switch is located on the condenser, at the front of the car. It's fairly tight to get to - below the drivers side headlamp. Function? It allows the control panel / unit (this is the digital display below the audio) to determine how much gas (R123-A) is in the system. Running the system dry would damage the compressor. So if the pressure drops too low for safety, it will go open circuit. This will cut off power to the compressor. The B6 A4 has no clutch, it's the later variable displacement type, so failure is very rare. I've never had to replace one, though I've found cause to replace faulty pressure switches. This is relatively inexpensive, and will be the first port of call.
B) Faulty control panel. The control panel combines the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Missing digits / pixels on the display can be attributed to an internal fault with the panel. Not cheap to buy new, relatively inexpensive used. The pressure switch fault can also trigger odd displays too. The Climate Control is fully OBD compliant, so a scan would be your first step. But I'm willing to bet your pressure switch is the culprit.
14/06) Check engine light illuminated. Again, a scan is in order. As you say it jerks intermittently and fuel consumption is higher than normal, I am combining 14 and 06. A scam will likely show:
A) Random misfire detected, cylinder ***
B) Multiple misfire detected, cylinder ***
C) Engine speed signal, implausible signal.
D) Oxygen sensor, bank 2.
Most misfire issues are to do with the coilpacks. Your 3,0 V6 30V has individual coil packs, so six. A scan will identify which cylinder/s is/are affected.
You also mention all other warning lights. Could you please confirm:
a) Check engine light - illuminated.
b) EPC (Electronic Performance Control) light - illuminated.
c) CAT (Catalytic Converter) light - illuminated.
d) Key light (immobiliser) light - flashing.
25) PRNDS all illuminate intermittently whilst in "". This is the most serious issue. Your can runs the ZF5HP19a 5-speed tiptronic, with Sport mode. The fluid must be replaced, along with the filter every 30,000 miles. This involves dropping the oil pan, and flushing the system through. It holds about 9 litres, though you'll only ever get about 5,5 - 6 litres out, as it's impossible to drain the torque converter with the transmission in situ.
Again, scan the car. If the PRNDS illuminates, it means the transmission is in limp mode. In this mode, generally only one forward gear is available - third. The car will be sluggish from low speeds, as the lower gears are no longer used. It also won't shift into 4th or 5th. Switching off the car and restarting will usually clear it, but only temporarily. The engine ECU also "talks" to the transmission TCU, and if transmission is in limp mode, the ECU will limit engine output to prevent damage. The engine will be thirstier than normal. A transmission fault can also trigger a check engine / EPC light.
It's also worth noting the TCU lives under the front floor covering, so any water / moisture there will kill it. A dead TCU is better than an internal transmission fault, as this means a complete strip down and rebuild. Or a replacement.
Please scan the following:
c) Climate control.
Post whatever codes you come up with, and I'll talk you through the processes you'll need to take for rectification.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 7:48pm On Nov 24, 2011|
Spam BOT deleted my post, and auto-banned me.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by k2wise: 7:55pm On Nov 24, 2011|
That thing makes me sick and tired of nairaland.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 8:13pm On Nov 24, 2011|
You can get a Bentley Service Manual from the United States. Or Elsa Windows. Elsa is the official Audi Dealer Service Manual.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 8:19pm On Nov 24, 2011|
For a compatible diagnostic scanner for VAG models, you're looking £30 - £45.
Service manual, there are free downloads. Look here: http://www.filestube.com/e/elsa+audi
Or simply Google Elsa Windows Audi, and take your pick.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by antace(m): 8:48pm On Nov 24, 2011|
@Siena, what a wonderful thread. I always read ur write-ups as they are highly educating. I don't own an audi yet but I do hope to get one because of you. May God keep rewarding you.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 9:46pm On Nov 24, 2011|
Glad you find my write-ups enlightening. May God continue to enrich you.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by tiniyata(m): 11:33pm On Nov 24, 2011|
dont know engine size
manual, 4 speed
my moms audi 80 do jerk at speed 70km/h and above then stops even on the highway and most times the cadburretor wont supply fuel, so u will have to add little fuel to the cadburretor. i took it to the mechanic after servicing the cadburretor myself and the mechanic said there's no problem with the cadburretor, that it should be the fuel pump.the car is still very clean but it can no longer go a straight 1km without it jerking and stopping, and this whole mess started lately. what do i do?
secondly: the car wont start, and when it starts, it wont off. I tried fixin that myself too, and it worked but at times it wont even start at all. so what do u think is the problem?
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 12:01am On Nov 25, 2011|
Tiniyata: I'll look into your queries with regards the Audi 80. Won't be easy though, as I have little to go on - no model year or engine size. So I have no idea which fuel system it has. You've mentioned carburettor though, so I'll assume it's a 1,6 / 1,8S. 2,0 models were all fuel injected, though the base model had single-point injection, which some mechanics junked in favour of a basic carburettor[i].[/i]..
I'll get back to you on this.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by tiniyata(m): 12:08am On Nov 25, 2011|
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by atura: 12:53am On Nov 25, 2011|
siena, good work o. pls some one is offering me audi A4 2.8 engine, automatic transmision, v6. leather interior, alloy rim, body very clean, model year: btw 1996-2000. it has covered 191000 km. do you think these wil be a good buy? he wants 400k. pls advice. thank you.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by kuntash: 3:53am On Nov 25, 2011|
Siena, you finally opened the Audi thread, good to know.
now we have Mercedes Benz, Honda & Audi,
Trac is doing something good on the Mercedes benz thread as well
where are the others? when we sell, or buy, we need to share the experiences etc on the aftermarket, and this should be top priority,
Seun, Inspired, Chealseabmw, Monitor1, I suggest you bring this kind of thread to the front page permanently,
well done Siena
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by sonety2k(m): 4:13am On Nov 25, 2011|
Baba Siena nice thread , keep it Up
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by jungle-j: 10:19am On Nov 25, 2011|
dude, keep up the good work. Please i don't know where to start, but this car has been giving me series of problems since i brought it to Abuja from Lag. Changed the gearbox, but mechanic says the engine is not strong enough to carry the AC, done lots of repairs (what i call trial and error) because i have spent way too much.
The present problem is now the start. I initially though it was the battery cos it refuses to start, but i tried using other batteries and it still will not start, its not the alternator because i asked an electrician to help me check, the kick starter is new, someone told me its a kick in the engine. Please if you are in Abuja or know someone in Abuja that is good with Audi's of this model, please be of assistance.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 10:52am On Nov 25, 2011|
For starters, when you say your Audi 80 fails to start, there are three things to contend with here:
a) The engine cranks (turns over) but won't start.
b) The engine makes no noise at all when you turn the ignition key.
c) The starter motor spins, but does NOT turn the engine.
As for Nigerian mechanics saying an engine is not strong enough to operate the aircon compressor, that's wrong. Generally, and engine that's had the crankshaft reground will have undersize bearings to match. Of course a regrind means, in laymans terms the crank journals were damaged. So a regrind removes some metal to make it smooth again. This makes the journals marginally thinner, and of course weaker. But, it does not mean the engine won't operate the compressor. The stresses of an aircon compressor pumping gas is way less than the loads placed upon the engine simply by driving, or even turning the steering wheel full lock (the power steering pump loads up the engine, more than aircon). A car with a 1,0L 45 bhp engine will still have aircon.
Please give me the information I've requested in a) b) and c) and we'll take things from there.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by 2dmax(m): 12:04pm On Nov 25, 2011|
pls siena, i want to start a disgnostic biz for all german made cars/suv/sav/light trucks from 98 upwards, using OBDII interface or above.
Would you please advice on the best diagnostic kit to use. Can you pls reply to my mailbox. email@example.com
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 12:25pm On Nov 25, 2011|
Hi! The Audi A4 B5 ran from September 1994 - March 2001. The 2,8 V6 engine came in different guises, depending on the model year, split between 12V and 30V. I need a model year. Giving between '96 - '00 is way too broad a spectrum to use in deciding if it's a good buy or not. Later models also had Sport mode in the automatic optioned cars.
Is it FWD or quattro?
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by BCuZiMBlaCk(m): 12:33pm On Nov 25, 2011|
Nice thread we got here. No quarelling or insulting, just problems being solved. Kudos to you baba siena
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by jungle-j: 12:35pm On Nov 25, 2011|
Thanks a lot for your rapid response. its b
The engine makes no noise (although the light comes up when you turn the ignition)
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by hbrednic: 12:43pm On Nov 25, 2011|
good one siena,always ready to help
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 1:31pm On Nov 25, 2011|
Two possible causes. I would rule out your battery, because the first thing you'd have done was either get a jump start, or try other batteries, which you have done. You've also confirmed the starter motor is new.
a) Starter inhibitor switch. This is the switch that prevents the engine from being started unless the gear shift is in P or N. These rarely go faulty, the most common issue is incorrect adjustment. If the gear shift is not absolutely aligned, the switch will register the shift as being in either R or D, and will prevent starting. Try starting the car, whilst moving the gear shift gently back and forth. If it starts, you've found your problem.
b) Faulty ignition switch. The most common fault of the Audi 80/90 B4 and early Audi A4 B5. The switch is housed within the ignition lock, there is a plastic assembly, with a slot in the middle. A metal peg from the ignition lock fits into this slot. Over time, the plastic assembly in the switch becomes brittle, and cracks. This means when the key is turned, the metal peg rotates within the plastic assembly in the switch, but fails to turn it fully. It will turn the switch to the "ignition on" position, but not to the "start" position. The "start" position is spring loaded, so the metal peg will simply slip, rather than overcome the spring resistance.
From experience, I would say your problem lies in the ignition switch. Get another one, and replace. It's easy to replace, it's held in the ignition lock assembly by two screws. You can actually pull the plug off the back, plug it to a new one, and use a screwdriver to turn the plastic assembly. This is just for test purpose only, as to drive like this, you'll still need the key to unlock the steering.
Just to give you an idea, I'm attaching some images below. The top picture shows two switches side by side - the cracked one is clearly the one on the right. The middle picture shows the Audi 80 ignition switch. Then finally, the ignition lock housing, that the switch fits into, is the last picture. The switch fits within the housing, in the direction of the arrow:
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by gogodaye(m): 1:49pm On Nov 25, 2011|
My Broda man, a great day to you. l just newly acquired a Volkswagen Vento 1994 CL model from Cotonou, Benin Republic. lts an automatic transmission drive. l discovered the Owners manual as well as its service manual are both written out in German. l'll appreciate if you could oblige me with information on where to procure an English version of the above manuals or in the alternative sites where l could download same. Secondly, l'm having issues with the car horn, hazard lights and trafficators lights dwhich do not work when you switch them on and also the rear parking lights are permanently on, thus forcing me to take the bulps out of the sockets so as not to drain the battery. could the problem be fuse related? l'm scared of taking the car to road side electrician. This is my first ride.Your views would be highly appreciated. Cheers.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by gogodaye(m): 2:08pm On Nov 25, 2011|
In addition, l'll equally appreciate being provided with a step by step guide on how to input the code to unlock the cars' gamma radio set which only indicates 'SAFE' when switched on. Thank you and Cheers.
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by kl2020: 2:42pm On Nov 25, 2011|
come 2 nigeria and open a mechanic workshop, it will help a lot
|Re: The Audi And Volkswagen Issues Resolution Thread by Siena(m): 2:52pm On Nov 25, 2011|
I'll try obtaining a copy of the Volkswagen Vento Owner's Manual in English.
The issues with your horn, hazard and indicators, would suggest a fault within the steering column / combination switch. I believe your hazard switch is on top of the steering column. And your tail lamps are stuck "on." Possible scenarios:
a) Faulty combination switch.
b) Missing earth connection.
Could you also confirm if the wipers and heater blower (interior fan) work?
If the switch is missing an earth, the horn definitely won't work. Unlike the rest of the car's electrical systems that have a permanent earth, and require a switched live (+12V) to activate them, the horn is the reverse. So the horn has +12V permanent supply, as long as the ignition is switched on. The horn contact switch in the middle of the steering wheel is an earth (-12V) trigger. No earth - no horn. The hazard lamps also need the same earth to work. If the central hazard switch is open circuit, the individual indicators won't work either.
Your rear lamps stuck on - are you sure it's not the brake lights? usually if your tail lamps are on, your front sidelamps will be on too. The brake lamps on Volkswagen and Audi have a permanent +12V feed to the switch, so don't rely on the ignition being one to work.
Please confirm the brake lamps still work, and we'll take things from there.
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