So I swapped my halogen interior lights to LED lights.
It's so nice, good ambience and its even brighter. Best of all I got them for N250 each!

1st pic is when I slapped in the LED light for the door lights with the halogen still (in front)

2nd pic install complete

RazaqMB:
https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32592860012.html
Try this. I most times read reviews before picking items

Please can I get your number or email so we can talk better being that you have done the same before. Don't want to make any mistakes Thanks

My vehicle ('04 Honda Pilot) has always had the 'check engine ' symbol and 'VTM-4 LOCK' always illuminated whenever I started the vehicle and drove.

Well, I got a new EGR valve and new PCV valve and installed them about two (2) weeks ago. First, the VTM-4 lock went off and after about one week of driving, the 'check engine ' symbol cleared on its own.

Now, I don't have any lights illuminating on my dash apart from the one showing which gear I'm on.

I didn't take before and after pictures as job was done in the night as soon as I got home with the parts due to busy schedule this period. However, I noticed old PCV valve was blocked.

I took pictures of the old and new EGR valves though before installing the new one.

And a picture of my dashboard now... No lights

mexxy1:
My vehicle ('04 Honda Pilot) has always had the 'check engine ' symbol and 'VTM-4 LOCK' always illuminated whenever I started the vehicle and drove.

Well, I got a new EGR valve and new PCV valve and installed them about two (2) weeks ago. First, the VTM-4 lock went off and after about one week of driving, the 'check engine ' symbol cleared on its own.

Now, I don't have any lights illuminating on my dash apart from the one showing which gear I'm on.

I didn't take before and after pictures as job was done in the night as soon as I got home with the parts due to busy schedule this period. However, I noticed old PCV valve was blocked.

I took pictures of the old and new EGR valves though before installing the new one.

And a picture of my dashboard now... No lights

More power to your elbow!

I just changed both front and rear engine mounts on my EOD.
Both were broken and my engine had started to move much if I engage the transmission.

Piyke:


More power to your elbow!

Thanks. Already changed caliper pins and the rubber part (don't know the name) housing them on front and rear calipers.

I'll do more preventive maintenance as time goes on.

mexxy1:


Thanks. Already changed caliper pins and the rubber part (don't know the name) housing them on front and rear calipers.

I'll do more preventive maintenance as time goes on.

I think they are just called rubber boots. Preventive maintenance is king!

Na to fix the radiator and few rewiring myself o. Then I wash the car by myself

Piyke:
Hello everyone,

This tread is for car DIY enthusiasts to share their DIY history or list planned ones. I guess (Siena's will fill the whole Nairaland )

Here a list of my past DIYs (on 2003 Accord 4cyl, LX, US spec)
1. Fuel pump assembly change (2011)
2. Oil and filter changes (Every 3 months)
3. Power steering o-ring change( this was to fix a whine that occurs each time the car was cold) 2011
4. Serpentine belt replacement. (2013)
5. Transmission fluid replacement (2013)
6. Throttle body cleaning (As needed)
7. Replacement of AC relay (2011)

Planned DIYs
1. Replacement of Automatic tensioner
2. Power Steering rebuild (replacement of seals. Current one leaks from one of the seals)
3. Coolant flush.

As you list yours remember to state the vehicle and trim. You never know you may solve a fellow Nairalander's problem.

Rebuilt my rear brakes yesterday; shoes, drum, all return springs, wheel cylinder(both had minor leaks), self-adjuster, retaining clips were all replaced.

Actually my attention was called to my rear breaks when I went in for my road worthiness test. The left side was said to be 60% less efficient than the right. Of course I failed the road worthiness test!

Should do a blog post once I'm done fixing the highlighted issues and get a pass.

Piyke:
Rebuilt my rear brakes yesterday; shoes, drum, all return springs, wheel cylinder(both had minor leaks), self-adjuster, retaining clips were all replaced.

Actually my attention was called to my rear breaks when I went in for my road worthiness test. The left side was said to be 60% less efficient than the right. Of course I failed the road worthiness test!

Should do a blog post once I'm done fixing the highlighted issues and get a pass.

Wonderful job done sir. We shall be waiting for your blog posts.

Piyke:
Rebuilt my rear brakes yesterday; shoes, drum, all return springs, wheel cylinder(both had minor leaks), self-adjuster, retaining clips were all replaced.

Actually my attention was called to my rear breaks when I went in for my road worthiness test. The left side was said to be 60% less efficient than the right. Of course I failed the road worthiness test!

Should do a blog post once I'm done fixing the highlighted issues and get a pass.

This picture just warms the cockles of my heart. I just love shiny new bits.

dumo1:

Wonderful job done sir. We shall be waiting for your blog posts.

Thanks!

EgunMogaji:


This picture just warms the cockles of my heart. I just love shiny new bits.

I always delight at adding new life in the form of parts. In fact it's relaxing for me working on cars. Maybe I should become a mechanic

Piyke:


I always delight at adding new life in the form of parts. In fact it's relaxing for me working on cars. Maybe I should become a mechanic

This is how it starts. When you love your work then it won’t be work and you’ll get paid for it.

Select an area of expertise.

dumo1:

Wonderful job done sir. We shall be waiting for your blog posts.

I have published! It's all here; how I went from a failed VIO road worthiness test to a fat pass

https://www.diyautoworksng.com/parking-brake-will-not-engage-left-rear-drum-brake-fixed/

For those that have only one of your rear drum brakes engaging, this may be of help

Piyke:


I have published! It's all here; how I went from a failed VIO road worthiness test to a fat pass

https://www.diyautoworksng.com/parking-brake-will-not-engage-left-rear-drum-brake-fixed/

For those that have only one of your rear drum brakes engaging, this may be of help

Rushing like flash to go and read it..

Piyke:
Rebuilt my rear brakes yesterday; shoes, drum, all return springs, wheel cylinder(both had minor leaks), self-adjuster, retaining clips were all replaced.

Actually my attention was called to my rear breaks when I went in for my road worthiness test. The left side was said to be 60% less efficient than the right. Of course I failed the road worthiness test!

Should do a blog post once I'm done fixing the highlighted issues and get a pass.

Will be redoing the drum brakes. This chinko shoe brake is too noisy for my liking and the pin (on the brake) supposed to hold the adjuster lever is smaller than OEM. As a result, the parking does not auto adjust.
Glad I got this Bosch part

Next up is water pump replacement!

Piyke:
Next up is water pump replacement!

Hope you got a sealant with this?

erico2k2:

Hope you got a sealant with this?

Yep. Used the Hondabond.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fGJfgfpUnc

Piyke:


Yep. Used the Hondabond.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fGJfgfpUnc

Correct did this job with an E46, I regretted not putting enough sealant, well them days I was naive though ahah

Preping for a shift cable oil seal change later today.
Vehicle -- EOD

davessales039:
Preping for a shift cable oil seal change later today.
Vehicle -- EOD

cool stuff, plz take full pic and share

erico2k2:

cool stuff, plz take full pic and share

Sure, I opened up the area to assess the condition and to be sure that was the only leak source and not a crack. It was. I took pics too.

Eventually, I didn't replace the seal though; for two reasons:
1. Couldn't get a new replacement yet, (locally)
2. Couldn't yet seperate the shift cable from internal control lever. The diagram shows there's a pin that holds it in, but in reality it seems Honda settled for a more permanent method of holding it in.

So I decided to abort the mission and restrategize; with pictures in hand.

Maybe you and Piyke could lend me some ideas, please??

In pic one, you can see the slow leak. (cleaned off in pic 2).
In both pics, green arrows point to the seal I'm hoping to replace and red arrow/circle show the parts I couldn't seperate.

Sorry I couldn't take better pictures; I was working underneath the car using jack stands only. No lift, so...

However, here are some earlier pics...

Pic 1 -- shows the leak
Pic 2 -- shows the shift cable cover that I had to take off.

Update.

Ok. So I eventually did this job.
Got the seal locally; wasn't packaged (probably toks or chinco, I don't know) but it looked solid and was in good shape.

Drained ATF and opened shift cable cover (pic in previous post above). I didn't bother with the link circled red (above) anymore.
I simply removed the 10mm bolt holding the entire attachment to the shift shaft. (better)

Next, I removed the oil seal. This was actually tough; the seal held on solid. Eventually, it came off.
Pic 1 below == before seal removal. You can see the rubber lip of the oil seal (touching the shaft) is obviously weak.
Pic 2 below == after seal removal. No body damage.

Replacement oil seal was installed, using a cut-to-size PVC pipe of similar diameter to press it in.
Unfortunately, I couldn't do much cleaning because of the tight position I was working from.
ATF was poured into transmission.
No leak after 24 hours. Will continue to observe it over the next few weeks.

Pics below show the replacement seal after installation.

davessales039:
Replacement oil seal was installed, using a cut-to-size PVC pipe of similar diameter to press it in.
Unfortunately, I couldn't do much cleaning because of the tight position I was working from.
ATF was poured into transmission.
No leak after 24 hours. Will continue to observe it over the next few weeks.

Pics below show the replacement seal after installation.

Looking good. Glad you decided to bite the bullet
Thanks for updating too.

Driver available for weekly remittance(30k). Am not a newbie, I have an existing bolt account. If you are a car owner in need of a driver, am just a call away. Kindly help out please.

Location:Ikeja

Whatsapp/call: 09060208152