I have a 2001 accord which is kinda getting old but I still love it. I recently changed d rings and d mech guy deemed it necessary to grind d valves (don't know what that means).
After d job, d car drives well, good power, no abnormal sounds or vibrations, Ac doesn't drag d engine down, but for one problem.
When I start the engine and still stationary, it raises well to 5000rpm. But when in motion, if it gets to 4000rpm, it throws a code and d engine starts convulsing and can't get past 4000rpm. It will not get past 4000rpm even if I stop d car untill I turn off d engine n back on and it will raise well to 5000rpm again.
Scanned and P1259 pops up. I've gauged my oil, changed d oil n filter, changed the vtec assembly on d engine body twice, checked all wiring with a multimeter, but same problem persists.
I've wiped d code severally, but it keeps coming back.

Please what else should I try?
I need help.

Let me also add that d car initially had double gasket, but I instructed d mech to put one original gasket just as the engine cones with.
Don't know if this info is relevant, but just wanted to add it.

Not same engine but same part and location.

Replace and thank me later

[img]http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQlfTLZHfYzMHKGPxeUTcrLU-vz8V6zBYF49IjdpOdI3NpxGpBN[/img]

Macmilla:
I have a 2001 accord which is kinda getting old but I still love it. I recently changed d rings and d mech guy deemed it necessary to grind d valves (don't know what that means).
After d job, d car drives well, good power, no abnormal sounds or vibrations, Ac doesn't drag d engine down, but for one problem.
When I start the engine and still stationary, it raises well to 5000rpm. But when in motion, if it gets to 4000rpm, it throws a code and d engine starts convulsing and can't get past 4000rpm. It will not get past 4000rpm even if I stop d car untill I turn off d engine n back on and it will raise well to 5000rpm again.
Scanned and P1259 pops up. I've gauged my oil, changed d oil n filter, changed the vtec assembly on d engine body twice, checked all wiring with a multimeter, but same problem persists.
I've wiped d code severally, but it keeps coming back.

Please what else should I try?
I need help.

The VTEC assembly? Do you mean the actuator or the solenoid.

The VTEC has 2 main parts, one is the actuator which is the head of the intake camshaft where the timing belt/chain is on and the solenoid which is located above the oil filter.

I dont know which of them you changed but am guessing the solenoid.

If thats what you changed, you have to make sure it works. Like most solenoids, it has a piston the moves and you could hear it click. Connecting it to a battery will make a working solenoid click. A service manual has specifications on it.

Another thing is that the solenoid depends on oil pressure to work. So if oil pressure is low i believe it will malfuction. Since your filter is changed, i want to believe that is eliminated. The 2 things i can think of is a weak oil pump or blocked oil line/screen filter to the solenoid.

Symptoms of late engine oil change. An enemy of the vtec/ rocker arm actuator technology. Yes you have changed the vtec solenoid and it still persist. Inspect your emgine for sludge. Series of test needs to be carried out. Have you checked your cam sensor. Stop throwing money around parts.get a competent hand to have the problem solved. Cheers

GAZZUZZ:
Not same engine but same part and location.

Replace and thank me later

[img]http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQlfTLZHfYzMHKGPxeUTcrLU-vz8V6zBYF49IjdpOdI3NpxGpBN[/img]

Already replaced twice, still problems persists.

Macmilla:

Already replaced twice, still problems persists.

Low oil pressure and possible sludge.

adanny01:


The VTEC assembly? Do you mean the actuator or the solenoid.

The VTEC has 2 main parts, one is the actuator which is the head of the intake camshaft where the timing belt/chain is on and the solenoid which is located above the oil filter.

I dont know which of them you changed but am guessing the solenoid.

If thats what you changed, you have to make sure it works. Like most solenoids, it has a piston the moves and you could hear it click. Connecting it to a battery will make a working solenoid click. A service manual has specifications on it.

Another thing is that the solenoid depends on oil pressure to work. So if oil pressure is low i believe it will malfuction. Since your filter is changed, i want to believe that is eliminated. The 2 things i can think of is a weak oil pump or blocked oil line/screen filter to the solenoid.

What I changed is d whole thing in the red circle in gazzuz's picture.
U mentioned weak oil pump, could it just go bad without anyone touching it? Assuming it can, any way I can check if it's the culprit? Cost i don't want to keep throwing money on parts.

GAZZUZZ:


Low oil pressure and possible sludge.

I admit, the oil was pretty bad within a week after the job, but I've changed it with the filter and it's still neat currently. Could it have spoilt anything? If yes, what? And any step to confirm it will be highly appreciated.
Thanks

mayor2013:
Symptoms of late engine oil change. An enemy of the vtec/ rocker arm actuator technology. Yes you have changed the vtec solenoid and it still persist. Inspect your emgine for sludge. Series of test needs to be carried out. Have you checked your cam sensor. Stop throwing money around parts.get a competent hand to have the problem solved. Cheers

This problem actually started after work was done on d engine and it was cleaned out, so I can say there's no sludge for now. If d cam sensor is bad, shouldn't it show as check engine and be seen on scanning?
As for competent hand, the only brain I trust around here is my own, that's why I'm seeking help from more experienced and informed men like u.

Cheers

Macmilla:

What I changed is d whole thing in the red circle in gazzuz's picture.
U mentioned weak oil pump, could it just go bad without anyone touching it? Assuming it can, any way I can check if it's the culprit? Cost i don't want to keep throwing money on parts.

Thats the solenoid.

You need to test it and confirm it is working. I believe its connector should have 2 pins, connect both directly to the battery. Research and find out the polarity of its pins before connecting the + and - battery terminals to the connector pin points usually numbered inside.

If found working then we can eliminate the solenoid from fault and proceed to checking vtec pressure switch.

Anyways, i am just researching on your case and saw same complaints with same symptoms like yours (engine wont accelerate beyond 4k rpm). I have seen suggestions which those who tried said it works. It involves jumping some wires but i wont advise you at this point till all efforts to solve it fails the you can try that as last resort. Thats why i wont tell you details about it yet.

adanny01:


Thats the solenoid.

You need to test it and confirm it is working. I believe its connector should have 2 pins, connect both directly to the battery. Research and find out the polarity of its pins before connecting the + and - battery terminals to the connector pin points usually numbered inside.

If found working then we can eliminate the solenoid from fault and proceed to checking vtec pressure switch.

Anyways, i am just researching on your case and saw same complaints with same symptoms like yours (engine wont accelerate beyond 4k rpm). I have seen suggestions which those who tried said it works. It involves jumping some wires but i wont advise you at this point till all efforts to solve it fails the you can try that as last resort. Thats why i wont tell you details about it yet.

I appreciate ur help.
I actually followed the steps on d service manual to confirm that the solenoid, pressure switch and the wiring are ok. But I couldn't check the oil pressure and vtec rocker arms.
There was no mention of vtec actuator on d manual.

I'm still wondering why it revs past 4000rpm when the engine is started, but starts messing up in motion.
If I erase the code, it won't pop out no matter how I fire when stationary and it passes 4000rpm. But everything starts when I rev to 4000rpm in motion.

Macmilla:

I appreciate ur help.
I actually followed the steps on d service manual to confirm that the solenoid, pressure switch and the wiring are ok. But I couldn't check the oil pressure and vtec rocker arms.
There was no mention of vtec actuator on d manual.

Ok. The actuator is the head or pulley of the intake camshaft. Its the part that actually does the work that the system is named as VTEC. The solenoid is the means with which the ecu controls the actuator while the pressure switch makes sure oil is supplied in correct pressure to the vtec system.

If by your test you have confirmed both solenoid and pressure switch, then the only thing left is to confirm that you dont have a weak oil pump.

I hope you have tried the first option which is making sure the connectors of both solenoid and pressure are making contact.

The last resort like i said before is the bypass. The bypass is actually meant for those who swapped engines or ecu to one with no VTEC pressure switch which will cause the ecu to look for input from the switch and solenoid.

It involves accessing the ECU and installing a jumper to the inputs A4 (VTEC solenoid) and D6 (VTEC pressure switch) of the two sensors. Alternatively, it can be done in the engine bay by connecting the 1 wire from the pressure switch to 1 wire of the solenoid. These wires should be the wires that run to the ecu. Note that, of the 2 wires that connect to both sensors, 1 of each is ground and does not run to the ecu. So you have to find out which are the ground wires and connect the others together. Its same effect as jumping at the ecu.

However, you will do this at your own risk as i cant take responsibility for this since i have not tried it myself. My warning is because i dont know what that could do to the ecu but responses say it will be fine or nothing will happen if it doesnt work.

www.honda-tech.com/engine-management-tuning-124/vtec-pressure-switch-trick-3026225/
www.honda-tech.com/engine-management-tuning-124/vtec-pressure-switch-bypass-but-still-have-cel-3000015/

adanny01:


Ok. The actuator is the head or pulley of the intake camshaft. Its the part that actually does the work that the system is named as VTEC. The solenoid is the means with which the ecu controls the actuator while the pressure switch makes sure oil is supplied in correct pressure to the vtec system.

If by your test you have confirmed both solenoid and pressure switch, then the only thing left is to confirm that you dont have a weak oil pump.

I hope you have tried the first option which is making sure the connectors of both solenoid and pressure are making contact.

The last resort like i said before is the bypass. The bypass is actually meant for those who swapped engines or ecu to one with no VTEC pressure switch which will cause the ecu to look for input from the switch and solenoid.

It involves accessing the ECU and installing a jumper to the inputs A4 (VTEC solenoid) and D6 (VTEC pressure switch) of the two sensors. Alternatively, it can be done in the engine bay by connecting the 1 wire from the pressure switch to 1 wire of the solenoid. These wires should be the wires that run to the ecu. Note that, of the 2 wires that connect to both sensors, 1 of each is ground and does not run to the ecu. So you have to find out which are the ground wires and connect the others together. Its same effect as jumping at the ecu.

However, you will do this at your own risk as i cant take responsibility for this since i have not tried it myself. My warning is because i dont know what that could do to the ecu but responses say it will be fine or nothing will happen if it doesnt work.

www.honda-tech.com/engine-management-tuning-124/vtec-pressure-switch-trick-3026225/
www.honda-tech.com/engine-management-tuning-124/vtec-pressure-switch-bypass-but-still-have-cel-3000015/

I think everything there makes contact cost turning the ignition off and on again seems to make everything fine again while stationary but comes back when I hit 4000rpm in gear.
I'm really looking at my oil pump but I don't know how to test it's function.
U've never mentioned the actuator as one of the possible cause of my problem. I take dt to mean d problem can't be from d actuator, right?
Since I didn't swap engines and also, d system works well with no load, I will keep the jumping as last resort.

Wish I can buy u a beer when I solve this problem.

Macmilla:

This problem actually started after work was done on d engine and it was cleaned out, so I can say there's no sludge for now. If d cam sensor is bad, shouldn't it show as check engine and be seen on scanning?
As for competent hand, the only brain I trust around here is my own, that's why I'm seeking hello from more experienced and informed men like u.

Cheers

Not every thing shows up on your scanner. If you have an high end scanner you can perform an actuator test using the scanner to test the solenoid. This is where professionalism comes into place. Do you know how to carry out a continuity test? If you do that would come a long way to help out and know exactly what is wrong. Your ecu might not be giving out the right signal for the solenoid to work. Also check for reference voltage from ecu. Do not carry out experiment with your car any experiment carried out is done @ your own peril

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Macmilla:

I think everything there makes contact cost turning the ignition off and on again seems to make everything fine again while stationary but comes back when I hit 4000rpm in gear.
I'm really looking at my oil pump but I don't know how to test it's function.
U've never mentioned the actuator as one of the possible cause of my problem. I take dt to mean d problem can't be from d actuator, right?
Since I didn't swap engines and also, d system works well with no load, I will keep the jumping as last resort.

Wish I can buy u a beer when I solve this problem.

I have read the same experience like yours. I think the ecu is responsible for setting that limit at 4k rpm to prevent damage from the failure of the VTEC system.

I will check for the oil pump issue.

If the actuator has a problem, it should have a different code other than P1259. There is a camshaft position sensor by which the ecu checks the actuator.

Beer would have been welcomed.

adanny01:


I have read the same experience like yours. I think the ecu is responsible for setting that limit at 4k rpm to prevent damage from the failure of the VTEC system.

I will check for the oil pump issue.

If the actuator has a problem, it should have a different code other than P1259. There is a camshaft position sensor by which the ecu checks the actuator.

Beer would have been welcomed.

I wish I had d equipments to do a pressure test.

PROBLEM SOLVED!

I was reading about my oil pump and noticed that it also has a timing. Knowing too well that my mech is a kazeem, I went to ask him about it and he gave me the usual kazeem response, "it doesn't mean anything". But that stupid answer is not for me, so I insisted, and together, we opened it up. I showed him how to do the oil pump timing and we closed up.
I took d car for a ride, pushing the engine as hard as possible. I pushed it to almost 5000rpm, no codes, no jerking.
I'm so happy now.

My explanation: Knowing too well that vtec mechanism depends so much on oil pressure, I think the pumping of oil needs to be synchronised with the vtec actuator on d cylinder top. Failure to do this will result in the mechanism not getting good enough oil pressure at the appropriate time and it will throw a code.
The above explanation is based on common sense and my experience and therefore, may not b true. I'm not an engineer.

Lessons
-Never leave ur car with a kazeem. Be part of d repair.
-if u are gonna use a kazeem, be in charge.
-Know as much as possible about ur problem b4 going to fix it.
-Every single thing in a car is important. The manufacturers of ur car are not stupid.
-if u get d code P1259 and replacing the vtec components on d engine is not helping, inspect the oil pump.
-b4 replacing ur oil pump, check d timing first. Esp if d engine was worked on.

In d picture blow, the no. 1 piston will have to be at TDC

Macmilla:
PROBLEM SOLVED!

I was reading about my oil pump and noticed that it also has a timing. Knowing too well that my mech is a kazeem, I went to ask him about it and he gave me the usual kazeem response, "it doesn't mean anything". But that stupid answer is not for me, so I insisted, and together, we opened it up. I showed him how to do the oil pump timing and we closed up.
I took d car for a ride, pushing the engine as hard as possible. I pushed it to almost 5000rpm, no codes, no jerking.
I'm so happy now.

My explanation: Knowing too well that vtec mechanism depends so much on oil pressure, I think the pumping of oil needs to be synchronised with the vtec actuator on d cylinder top. Failure to do this will result in the mechanism not getting good enough oil pressure at the appropriate time and it will throw a code.
The above explanation is based on common sense and my experience and therefore, may not b true. I'm not an engineer.

Lessons
-Never leave ur car with a kazeem. Be part of d repair.
-if u are gonna use a kazeem, be in charge.
-Know as much as possible about ur problem b4 going to fix it.
-Every single thing in a car is important. The manufacturers of ur car are not stupid.
-if u get d code P1259 and replacing the vtec components on d engine is not helping, inspect the oil pump.
-b4 replacing ur oil pump, check d timing first. Esp if d engine was worked on.

In d picture blow, the no. 1 piston will have to be at TDC

Oh nice to hear that the problem is gone.

This reminds me of my thread www.nairaland.com/2384754/advice-needed-repair-2008-honda

It ended same way too after my kazeem removed the engine 3 times for a wired sound. He had no idea the oil pump needs to be timed in which case caused a collision of parts making the sound.

There is a lot kazeems dont know especially on newer cars

adanny01:


Oh nice to hear that the problem is gone.

This reminds me of my thread www.nairaland.com/2384754/advice-needed-repair-2008-honda

It ended same way too after my kazeem removed the engine 3 times for a wired sound. He had no idea the oil pump needs to be timed in which case caused a collision of parts making the sound.

There is a lot kazeems dont know especially on newer cars

Thanks for all your contributions.
I also appreciate Gazzuz and mayor2013.

You guys will live long, for the sake of my car.