makavele:


Assuming you only discharge your batteries to 50% everynight;
you would be consuming just about 2.4KwH
And you need at least 800Watts of panel power to recharge the battery back
in about 4 hours sunlight . . .
I mentioned 800 Watts because it would be downplayed to about 600W x 4 hrs= 2.4kwH . .

Thats just the basics . . if you wish to power some loads during the day; therefore you would need to add more panels;
depending on power requirement.

He might need upto 1200w

You have not considered usage during the day time..

Dam5reey:


He might need upto 1200w

You have not considered usage during the day time..

Oga cool down n read what I posted again . .

Thats just the basics . . if you wish to power some loads during the day; therefore you would need to add more panels;
depending on power requirement.

just because u wanna contradict me, u ddnt bother to read

if i wozz u slap ehn

earthrealm:




ur bank being a 12v 500ah, needs an inverter tht can output 50amps charging current at 12v to prevent sulphation and premature battery death, am sure none of the inverters listed by @niyi can output such a high charging current. only american and german inverters are capable of such feats at 12v, magnum, schneider etc....

your best bet is either getting such high end inverters or going solar and slap on a 60amp cc minimum, 70amp even better..and enough panels to generate >50amps.
thats the big heartache that 12v setup brings....its best avoided by going for 48v, 24v etc

Thanks for the advice.. I'm considering going solar later this year by God grace, so that i can avoid premature death and sulphation of my batteries.

earthrealm:




ur bank being a 12v 500ah, needs an inverter tht can output 50amps charging current at 12v to prevent sulphation and premature battery death, am sure none of the inverters listed by @niyi can output such a high charging current. only american and german inverters are capable of such feats at 12v, magnum, schneider etc....

your best bet is either getting such high end inverters or going solar and slap on a 60amp cc minimum, 70amp even better..and enough panels to generate >50amps.
thats the big heartache that 12v setup brings....its best avoided by going for 48v, 24v etc

I don't believe you typed the bolded cos icell can convinently do 42-45a on 12v

Call for your inverter repair.. Board or spare part are readily available .

Thanks.

Schneider inverter

Xantrex Inverter

Outback Inverter

Magnum Inverter.

Call Deji. 07033311179

JUO:
I don't believe you typed the bolded cos icell can convinently do 42-45a on 12v

ok, i didnt know...assumed its same architecture for ipower/axpert which i know cant output such.
that being the case, he can manage the icell inverter with 45amps output till he goes solar

DMerciful:
My People,

i made this request before and i am making it again.
kindly recommend an air conditioning unit brand that consumes low power such that i can conveniently power with my inverter.

thanks

any of the LG/Samsung "Inverter AC" should do. They are the most efficient in the market. At they do not have start up current

jarkbauer:
I currently have a 1.5KVA 24volts inverter
2 200amps batteries.

I want to add solar array.

Please Can someone tell me what I need if I want to add solar.

Thanks.

Putting the cart before the house. Do a simple energy audit. How many appliance do you intend to power and for how long. This would allow you have a good estimate of your daily power consumption which will in turn make it clear how much energy you need generate from solar to keep your batteries in the green. My advise is to trim your consumption to about 960WH which is about 40% depth of discharge. Then get at least 4 250w solar panels. Design your system to run heavy loads like fridge/freezers only during day and leave night loads for lights, fans and TV. That way you can keep your nightly discharge lite and not have to worry about draining your batteries or filling them up the next morning. Less your discharge over night, less is required to top up = more energy available for running heavy loads while the sun is shinning. An Energy audit is the cheapest and most rewarding effort any potential solar off-grider needs to embark on.

bigrovar:


Putting the cart before the house. Do a simple energy audit. How many appliance do you intend to power and for how long. This would allow you have a good estimate of your daily power consumption which will in turn make it clear how much energy you need generate from solar to keep your batteries in the green. My advise is to trim your consumption to about 960WH which is about 40% depth of discharge. Then get at least 4 250w solar panels. Design your system to run heavy loads like fridge/freezers only during day and leave night loads for lights, fans and TV. That way you can keep your nightly discharge lite and not have to worry about draining your batteries or filling them up the next morning. Less your discharge over night, less is required to top up = more energy available for running heavy loads while the sun is shinning. An Energy audit is the cheapest and most rewarding effort any potential solar off-grider needs to embark on.

I intend to combine it with NEPA light.

makavele:


Assuming you only discharge your batteries to 50% everynight;
you would be consuming just about 2.4KwH
And you need at least 800Watts of panel power to recharge the battery back
in about 4 hours sunlight . . .
I mentioned 800 Watts because it would be downplayed to about 600W x 4 hrs= 2.4kwH . .

Thats just the basics . . if you wish to power some loads during the day; therefore you would need to add more panels;
depending on power requirement.

Thank you

dejidotun2000:
You need solar charge controller, solar panels, solar panel mounting kit (if necessary), cables, and DC breakers.

Thank you

jarkbauer:


I intend to combine it with NEPA light.

Do not account for NEPA . . . while doing your audit; to avoid stories that touch,

If grid power comes along the way, that's a plus . . if it fails; you won't be affected.

Dear both,

I can confirm to you that not only high end inverters are capable of 12v 50amps charging. I have personally tested the Mustpower inverters and verified 45-50amps charging current via both a battery monitor and my Fluke 376 Digital Clamp Meter and this when the battery bank was not deeply discharged (deeply discharged batteries will take more power). JUO has also confirmed the ICellPower's charging output in a seperate response.

I recommended the ICellPower 12v inverter because of the lower idle consumption vs. MustPower and price point between 80k - 100k.

If Mr RYusufu needs more power per unit of time he can purchase two inverter units and set the charging amps (user adjustable) to achieve his goal - let me muddy the water by saying I know of a chinco smart charger called Souer which costs less than 20k and can also output 25 - 30amps charging current . The charger has a reliable cutoff to float mode and the default absorb voltage is 14.8volts - the charger can be opened up and adjusted for lower or higher absorb voltage as required for a specific battery chemistry.

If you want to go solar, then a 12v battery bank may not be your best bet because of the efficiency trade-offs especially when your stated loads are 600w. Most affordable MPPT controllers are capped around 12v 800w - 1000w output so you would be struggling to fill up your batteries after your loads or else you buy more than one Charge Controller. Maybe you may get more mileage from PWM but then you have to get panel voltage properly matched to battery voltage, cable gauge and so many other things right to enjoy PWM and the good PWM controllers are not cheap either.

So I would say stick with your 12v 500ah bank for now and buy the ICellPower inverters to keep your battery bank happy - ensure a daily full charge and consume no more than 50% of your battery AH Capacity and you should be good.

There, now you both owe me consultancy fee

ryusufu:
Thanks for the advice.. I'm considering going solar later this year by God grace, so that i can avoid premature death and sulphation of my batteries.

earthrealm:




ur bank being a 12v 500ah, needs an inverter tht can output 50amps charging current at 12v to prevent sulphation and premature battery death, am sure none of the inverters listed by @niyi can output such a high charging current. only american and german inverters are capable of such feats at 12v, magnum, schneider etc....

your best bet is either getting such high end inverters or going solar and slap on a 60amp cc minimum, 70amp even better..and enough panels to generate >50amps.
thats the big heartache that 12v setup brings....its best avoided by going for 48v, 24v etc

makavele:


Do not account for NEPA . . . while doing your audit; to avoid stories that touch,

If grid power comes along the way, that's a plus . . if it fails; you won't be affected.

Ok

jarkbauer:


I intend to combine it with NEPA light.

In this world, only thing that is certain is the sun!.. It is best exclude things you can't control and that are notoriously unstable e.g NEPA from your calculation. For me, NEPA is treated as bonus points

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Dear both,

. . .let me muddy the water by saying I know of a chinco smart charger called Souer which costs less than 20k and can also output 25 - 30amps charging current . The charger has a reliable cutoff to float mode and the default absorb voltage is 14.8volts - the charger can be opened up and the potentiometer adjusted for lower or higher absorb voltage as required for a specific battery chemistry.

recipe for disaster . . . the last time i checked a potentiometer can only be used for measuring potential difference (voltage in layman's term) ; (hence the name: "potentio - meter" )across a circuit . . . adjusting the potentiometer will only increase or decrease the accuracy of the measurement . . . that's all. this is done to calibrate the meter when it is losing accuracy.
It cannot be used to reduce the voltage setpoint at which the charger goes into absorb or float . . if it were that easy . .
we could see ourselves opening up our inverters and adjusting the potentiometers in them . .
The voltage setpoints are embedded into the electronic chips/motherboards as CPU instructions;
that's why many ppl shy away from such chargers .. cos they kill batteries over time.

ELECRAMA-2018 exhibition

is

from 10th to 14th March 2018, at India Expo Mart, Greater Noida, Delhi – NCR.

IEEMA, with the support of the Department of Commerce, Government of India, is organising ChangeXchange 2018 - The 4th Reverse Buyer-Seller Meet (RBSM), concurrently with the ELECRAMA-2018 exhibition.

I am pleased to inform that IEEMA is inviting a limited number of foreign buyers, from countries in Africa, CIS, ASEAN, SAARC and Middle East, who are keen to source electrical products from India. These foreign buyers will be hosted by IEEMA, taking care of their travel and accommodation; who will have one to one meetings with the Indian exhibitors of ELECRAMA-2018, under RBSM. A brochure of ChangeXchange 2018 - The 4th Reverse Buyer-Seller Meet (RBSM) is attached.

All Hosted Buyers are entitled for:

1. Pre-planned one-to-one meetings with Indian sellers at the event.
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3. Complimentary four days and three nights of hotel for attending the event, including breakfast.
4. Complimentary Coach Transfers from Hotel Venue Hotel to attend the event.
5. Complimentary Lunch at 4th Reverse Buyer-Seller Meet Venue.
6. Visa Recommendation Letters to obtain Indian visa in their home country.

Eligible Applicants include:

- Procurement Officials from Power Utilities
- Ministry of Power & Energy Officials
- Energy Regulators
- EPC Contractors
- Consultants
- Electrical Equipment Buyers

Through this communication, I request you to send us a list of foreign buyers, along with their coordinates, from your global contacts in aforesaid regions, for inviting them to register for RBSM. We also request you to encourage these foreign buyers, from your end, to register for the same.

The foreign buyers may apply online at http://www.ieema-rbsm.in/buyer-registration.php

Or fill-in attached buyer’s application form and email a scanned copy of the same to response@ieema-rbsm.in

Please note that mere application by foreign buyers does not guarantee their selection as a hosted foreign buyer. The applications received will be reviewed by the Screening Committee and all approved foreign buyers shall be informed accordingly. The decision of the Screening Committee shall be final.


For any further query, please contact Mr. Sudeep Sarkar (Mobile: 98108 05905 email: sudeep.sarkar@ieema.org).

DMerciful:
My People,

i made this request before and i am making it again.
kindly recommend an air conditioning unit brand that consumes low power such that i can conveniently power with my inverter.

thanks

I use the "inverter v/gencool" aircon by LG

Sorry if I used the wrong English.

There is SOMETHING inside the Souer charger, I am told you can TURN that SOMETHING LEFT or RIGHT to adjust the absorb voltage setpoint - similar to how you adjust the PRAG/MustPower inverter voltage setpoint by turning a dial/knob to select different charging algorithms for different battery types except that the PRAG/MustPower adjustment is external but you have to open up the Souer to make the adjustment.

As you know, different inverters or charge equipment have different internal setups - To be very clear, I was speaking of how to adjust a very specific charger brand called Souer and not generalizing on how inverter voltage setpoints or charge algorithms may be adjusted

makavele:


recipe for disaster . . . the last time i checked a potentiometer can only be used for measuring potential difference (voltage in layman's term) ; (hence the name: "potentio - meter" )across a circuit . . . adjusting the potentiometer will only increase or decrease the accuracy of the measurement . . . that's all. this is done to calibrate the meter when it is losing accuracy.
It cannot be used to reduce the voltage setpoint at which the charger goes into absorb or float . . if it were that easy . .
we could see ourselves opening up our inverters and adjusting the potentiometers in them . .
The voltage setpoints are embedded into the electronic chips/motherboards as CPU instructions;
that's why many ppl shy away from such chargers .. cos they kill batteries over time.

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NiyiOmoIyunade:
Sorry if I used the wrong English.

There is SOMETHING inside the Souer charger, I am told you can TURN that SOMETHING LEFT or RIGHT to adjust the absorb voltage setpoint - similar to how you adjust the PRAG/MustPower inverter voltage setpoint by turning a dial/knob to select different charging algorithms for different battery types except that the PRAG/MustPower adjustment is external but you have to open up the Souer to make the adjustment.

As you know, different inverters or charge equipment have different internal setups - To be very clear, I was speaking of how to adjust a very specific charger brand called Souer and not generalizing on how inverter voltage setpoints or charge algorithms may be adjusted

Maybe the very high end souer models would have this feature/facility . . .
but the pretty cheap ones, like you mentioned, do not . . cos I have had one for more than 4 years now
and have dismantled and arranged it, more times than I can count.

makavele:


recipe for disaster . . . the last time i checked a potentiometer can only be used for measuring potential difference (voltage in layman's term) ; (hence the name: "potentio - meter" )across a circuit . . . adjusting the potentiometer will only increase or decrease the accuracy of the measurement . . . that's all. this is done to calibrate the meter when it is losing accuracy.
It cannot be used to reduce the voltage setpoint at which the charger goes into absorb or float . . if it were that easy . .
we could see ourselves opening up our inverters and adjusting the potentiometers in them . .
The voltage setpoints are embedded into the electronic chips/motherboards as CPU instructions;
that's why many ppl shy away from such chargers .. cos they kill batteries over time.

A potentiometer is not used for measuring potential difference, a voltmeter is used for that. A potentiometer is either an adjustable voltage divider, variable resistor or rheostat depending on how it's three legs are connected in the circuit. It can be used to adjust voltage setpoints upwards/downwards and also for accuracy calibration depending on the circuit design.

dapsyra:


A potentiometer is not used for measuring potential difference, a voltmeter is used for that. A potentiometer is either an adjustable voltage divider, variable resistor or rheostat depending on how it's three legs are connected in the circuit. It can be used to adjust voltage setpoints upwards/downwards and also for accuracy calibration depending on the circuit design.

You are quoting textbook definition;
i am giving you the basics of what a potentiometer does . . .
What is the job of a potentiometer inside a voltmeter ?

makavele:


You are quoting textbook definition;
i am giving you the basics of what a potentiometer does . . .
What is the job of a potentiometer inside a voltmeter ?

What I stated is physics!

A potentiometer inside a voltmeter is used as a variable resistor to calibrate the accuracy of the displayed value. That is one of the three uses of a potentiometer as stated in my earlier post. The fact remains that a potentiometer cannot and does not measure potential difference. It is essentially a resistor with a variable centre tap.

There are many laymen in this forum, so it is important to give accurate information in order not to lead them astray.

dapsyra:


What I stated is physics!

A potentiometer inside a voltmeter is used as a variable resistor to calibrate the accuracy of the displayed value. That is one of the three uses of a potentiometer as stated in my earlier post. The fact remains that a potentiometer cannot and does not measure potential difference. It is essentially a resistor with a variable centre tap.

There are many laymen in this forum, so it is important to give accurate information in order not to lead them astray.

You are talking rubbish . . like i said you are quoting online or textbook Physics for us.
I am quoting real life applications for you.
Draw your two ears and hold them tight, i repeat . .
A potientiometer can be used to measure potential difference or electromotive force, put it as you want in a circuit.

If you are a true science student, then you would know that a potentiometer is preferred than a voltmeter when it comes to
measuring voltage or more precisely, emf / Why?

When a voltmeter is connected, the circuit is closed, and internal resistance comes into play. Little current is drawn, so it tampers with the accuracy of the readings.

On the other hand, a potentiometer is an open-circuit measurement, no current is drawn, so it's more accurate for measuring emf or terminal voltage. it is also more sensitive than a voltmeter.

SO when next I tell you that a potentiometer is used to measure voltage, just keep shut and don't argue.

Yes, it could be used for other purposes like you mentioned too; but don't tell me it doesn't measure !

And before you argue again . . . I used the term e.m.f (electro motive force) .. a measurement of the potential difference

between two points in a circuit. The S.I.unit of e.m.f is Volts ( losely called voltage) . . .

SO when people say, "measure the voltage of the battery" . . they are actually wrong . . .

it's more like saying . . "measure the meters of your house to mine" instead of "measure the distance . . . "

since meter is a unit.

It is more scientific to say, "measure the e.m.f across the battery's terminal"

But we have become used to saying Voltage . . so we stuck with it.

I could go on and on. . . I don't do Google's copy n paste here !!!

Voltage setpoints can actually be adjusted by a potentiometer(variable resistor with centre tap) especially for circuit with pulse width modulation.you have circuits that uses the op amp or comparators and they compares the output to a voltage divider which can conveniently be a potentiometer

dapsyra:


What I stated is physics!

A potentiometer inside a voltmeter is used as a variable resistor to calibrate the accuracy of the displayed value. That is one of the three uses of a potentiometer as stated in my earlier post. The fact remains that a potentiometer cannot and does not measure potential difference. It is essentially a resistor with a variable centre tap.

There are many laymen in this forum, so it is important to give accurate information in order not to lead them astray.

makavele:


You are talking rubbish . . like i said you are quoting online or textbook Physics for us.
I am quoting real life applications for you.
Draw your two ears and hold them tight, i repeat . .
A potientiometer can be used to measure potential difference or electromotive force, put it as you want in a circuit.

If you are a true science student, then you would know that a potentiometer is preferred than a voltmeter when it comes to
measuring voltage or more precisely, emf / Why?

When a voltmeter is connected, the circuit is closed, and internal resistance comes into play. Little current is drawn, so it tampers with the accuracy of the readings.

On the other hand, a potentiometer is an open-circuit measurement, no current is drawn, so it's more accurate for measuring emf or terminal voltage. it is also more sensitive than a voltmeter.

SO when next I tell you that a potentiometer is used to measure voltage, just keep shut and don't argue.

Yes, it could be used for other purposes like you mentioned too; but don't tell me it doesn't measure !

Hello, pls you guys should take it easy ... Corrections can be made without using "harsh words" .. Cheer's

Please lets maintain some level of decorum. we are all here to learn...nobody is a repository of knowledge!

makavele:


You are talking rubbish . . like i said you are quoting online or textbook Physics for us.
I am quoting real life applications for you.
Draw your two ears and hold them tight, i repeat . .
A potientiometer can be used to measure potential difference or electromotive force, put it as you want in a circuit.

If you are a true science student, then you would know that a potentiometer is preferred than a voltmeter when it comes to
measuring voltage or more precisely, emf / Why?

When a voltmeter is connected, the circuit is closed, and internal resistance comes into play. Little current is drawn, so it tampers with the accuracy of the readings.

On the other hand, a potentiometer is an open-circuit measurement, no current is drawn, so it's more accurate for measuring emf or terminal voltage. it is also more sensitive than a voltmeter.

SO when next I tell you that a potentiometer is used to measure voltage, just keep shut and don't argue.

Yes, it could be used for other purposes like you mentioned too; but don't tell me it doesn't measure !

DMerciful:
Please lets maintain some level of decorum. we are all here to learn...nobody is a repository of knowledge!

I am calm, just spicing it up, that is !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1KZCF6bgEg

makavele:


You are talking rubbish . .

I will ignore that for obvious reasons

makavele:


A potentiometer can be used to measure potential difference or electromotive force, put it as you want in a circuit.

The issue is not about using a Potentiometer to measure EMF (which is a bit complex because it requires a Galvanometer and some extra components). It is about using a Potentiometer to measure Potential Difference (PD).

The Potentiometer (POT) under reference in the thread is a three legged variable resistor that are used in circuits. That POT is either an adjustable voltage divider, variable resistor or rheostat and cannot be used to measure PD

Resistors don't measure voltages, they rather limit current and create PD across it's terminals when current flows through. The PD across the POT can then be measured by a voltmeter or calculated from the formula V=IR. This is O'level physics.

makavele:


If you are a true science student, then you would know that a potentiometer is preferred than a voltmeter when it comes to
measuring voltage or more precisely, emf / Why?

I am not a science student. I am a Physicist with 31years post graduate experience. You have probably not stated Primary School when I bagged my Physics degree.

Have you seen anyplace where you can buy a Potentiometer off the shelf for measuring voltages? But voltmeters or multimeters are everywhere. So where is the preference. Before the advent of Field Effect transistors (FET), in laboratories where high precision is required, a circuit consisting of a POT, Galvanometer, known EMF source and an unknown EMF source is built in order to measure the EMF of the unknown source. It is the circuit that you are mixing up with the stand alone component POT.

makavele:

On the other hand, a potentiometer is an open-circuit measurement, no current is drawn, so it's more accurate for measuring emf or terminal voltage. it is also more sensitive than a voltmeter.

Since they started designing the input of Voltmeters with FETs, the accuracy/precision of voltmeters have sky rocketed. Nowadays, we have digital voltmeters with 99.999999% accuracy. So, Voltmeters are now much more accurate and sensitive than any potentiometer circuit.

makavele:

SO when next I tell you that a potentiometer is used to measure voltage, just keep shut and don't argue.

Once again, I will not degenerate to your level.

I rest my case on this matter.