The "powerstar" model will not allow you select 0amp but the "not used" battery profile does work . . .

You can say that again, charging with prepaid meter is suicide when the battery bank is heavy.

I burn close to 7kWh during one complete charge cycle; if my DOD is fair.

Nice one!

I have always wondered what one could do with those settings '0' and '9' for the battery voltage profile selection.

Now I know - the other iterations of the MustPower I have seen do not have a zero current setting though - only a 25% to 100% range in roughly 25% increments

Double gbosa for Felicity!!!

bigrovar:


2 ways of disabling charging on the unit. Via the Battery type selector choose "not used" you can also do it via the charging current settings. Choose 0%. Those two options disables charging from the unit completely. (used the Victron battery monitor to verify that indeed charging was disabled when those options are selected)

If you are on a pre paid meter and you have sufficient solar pv. It is better to disable inverter charging to better utilise your solar and reduce electricity bills.

Call/Whatsapp us on 08066332919

baba u funny and sort of true, kiekie me i remember u back in the days o!

kiekie1:


Good point Sir ! I sure know of two modes which we have here...;
>>New feature "Likers association of Nairaland" LAN
>>"Discreet observers association of Nairaland" DOAN

NextDayPP:
Ogas Wazari and S007, please let this rest, even those of us that started yesterday know that cables don't have to get to 'firing' point before breakers come to action. Thank you both for your explanations.

#Firing���

If you decide to use the higher rated MCB for the same cable, you need to understand that it is a risk and maybe it will make you more vigilant (constantly looking out for any signs of a fire).

To prevent a fire, you should use an MCB with a lower amp rating than the cable not higher



Messrs Waziri and Richmond, I think you missed the context of my post entirely. I was just trying to make a joke out of it, if anything, I was eager to see more inputs/corrections on Mr Makevele's installation. I quoted myself and copied your post above incase you dont want to go back and read over again. I used the word 'Oga' and said thank you at the end. I can't see where I said anything against you, or maybe my use of English is bad. I AM SORRY.

Let me use this opportunity to tell everyone how much this forum has helped me and why I think it is the BEST in entire nairaland.

I started in 2010 by buying 200AH battery and a 1kva inverter at Bluegate in Ikeja for my shop following someone recommendation. I plugged my 1.2kva UPS into the outlet of the inverter thinking I needed to regulate the inverter power as I did gen and PHCN, plus I had in excess of 400w constant load. The battery died in a couple of months. I was told at Bluegate my load was too much and that I shouldn't have used the UPS. I didn't care much about the money lost because I was to exited that it actually worked. Bought another battery and took the system home because I could not reduce the load in the shop. That lasted about 2 years because I didn't know I could add panels to it and PHCN was better then.

Today, still on 200AH battery, with the help of this forum, the max I put on the battery is 100w
This forum has taught me to check device power rating before buying
You pro taught me the importance of accessories like breakers, fuses and meters, (even on basic and small systems) so much so now that I have a meter for USB devices like phones.
This forum made me know there are DC pumps, and have since ported to DC pumps for my farm use. I could go on and on.

Since I came across this thread about 4 years ago, I have done close to 20 small and basic installations for myself and friends, and when some of my friends are ready to go big with 48v systems as they have indicated, I already note down who to call from here to help. Those that will attend to you even when you are buying just a single panel and will not ignore your messages because you are on low budget.

I come here to learn not to contribute and will also learn as long as I live, unless telling Mr Dmerciful where to get low AH batteries is a contribution

In agric section on nairaland, everyone wants to get paid for every little info, even though some of them are internet farmers and not practicing, reason this place is my best. You ogas here don't know how much you are valued, you don't. there are hundreds even thousands learning from you secretly.

It makes me really sad to see your comments yesterday which was my birthday. Again I am sorry.

I wish everyone a fulfilled week.

NextDayPP:


If you decide to use the higher rated MCB for the same cable, you need to understand that it is a risk and maybe it will make you more vigilant (constantly looking out for any signs of a fire).

To prevent a fire, you should use an MCB with a lower amp rating than the cable not higher



Messrs Waziri and Richmond, I think you missed the context of my post entirely. I was just trying to make a joke out of it, if anything, I was eager to see more inputs/corrections on Mr Makevele's installation. I quoted myself and copied your post above incase you dont want to go back and read over again. I used the word 'Oga' and said thank you at the end. I can't see where I said anything against you, or maybe my use of English is bad. I AM SORRY.

Let me use this opportunity to tell everyone how much this forum has helped me and why I think it is the BEST in entire nairaland.

I started in 2010 by buying 200AH battery and a 1kva inverter at Bluegate in Ikeja for my shop following someone recommendation. I plugged my 1.2kva UPS into the outlet of the inverter thinking I needed to regulate the inverter power as I did gen and PHCN, plus I had in excess of 400w constant load. The battery died in a couple of months. I was told at Bluegate my load was too much and that I shouldn't have used the UPS. I didn't care much about the money lost because I was to exited that it actually worked. Bought another battery and took the system home because I could not reduce the load in the shop. That lasted about 2 years because I didn't know I could add panels to it and PHCN was better then.

Today, still on 200AH battery, with the help of this forum, the max I put on the battery is 100w
This forum has taught me to check device power rating before buying
You pro taught me the importance of accessories like breakers, fuses and meters, (even on basic and small systems) so much so now that I have a meter for USB devices like phones.
This forum made me know there are DC pumps, and have since ported to DC pumps for my farm use. I could go on and on.

Since I came across this thread about 4 years ago, I have done close to 20 small and basic installations for myself and friends, and when some of my friends are ready to go big with 48v systems as they have indicated, I already note down who to call from here to help. Those that will attend to you even when you are buying just a single panel and will not ignore your messages because you are on low budget.

I come here to learn not to contribute and will also learn as long as I live, unless telling Mr Dmerciful where to get low AH batteries is a contribution

In agric section on nairaland, everyone wants to get paid for every little info, even though some of them are internet farmers and not practicing, reason this place is my best. You ogas here don't know how much you are valued, you don't. there are hundreds even thousands learning from you secretly.

It makes me really sad to see your comments yesterday which was my birthday. Again I am sorry.

I wish everyone a fulfilled week.

so guys be ready to pay for information, even though is not now but very soon we will get there

Dear All,

I have surplus units of the HA02 48v Battery Balancer for sale. They are just fresh off the mint from a project I helped oversee.

Unit price is NGN28K apiece and delivery within Lagos will be free if you order 2 or more units at once.

Many thanks.

So upgraded my villa setup1.5kw 24v setup to 2kw 24v on epsolar 60amp mppt charge controller.
Need confirmation...that epsolar can handle the excess watts..just incase the panels decide to suprise me by producing above 90%.

I switched from a 3 x 2 setup to a 4 x 2 config.
I have 4 x 250w renogy panels on 1 string and 4 chinese panels.2yingli n 2 suntech all 250w with close specs.
I noticed that the chinese panels easily exceeded 850w/30amps in bright sunlight..giving me hope that i wud be exceeding 1800w/60amps when i connect the other string.
.while the renogy struggled to hit 600w.
Only major diff btw the installation is the placement...while the chinese are vertical.the renogy are horizontal...could that accoun5 for the poor performance of the renogy?.

2ndly its a rudimentary setup without combiner box..just terminated the 2 strings at the cc.
Is there a handheld watts tester i cud use to check the harvest of each panel..am suspecting 1 panel may be bad in the renogy...
Wud use meter to chk the voltages of the renogy panels.

Boss! What is the nameplate VmP on your panels? 4 panels in series seems to be dancing rather close to the 145/150vDC controller limit biko. Most 250w panels have VMP in the 30 to 32vDC range and 4 in series may be able to make enough voltage to brick your CC or did you mean 4 parallel strings with each string having 2 panels in series?

And if I recall right someone here (maybe you ) played with 4 panels in series in the past and bricked his MorningStar. In a 24v nominal battery system and with this basic controller, I don't see any advantage you would get having array voltage around 120v.

To answer your questions, the EP Solar Max Array Size is determined by the formula [LBatt x Max Array VmP] so with a 60a controller, LBatt (Max Battery Current) is 60amps while your VmP (conventional two panels in series for a 24v system) is ~60v. 60amps x 60vMP gives you 3.6kW as the max array size with EP Solar 60a when used in a 24v system. Based on this and actual field experience you will be very okay with a 2.4kW array and safe up until 3kW of PV panels even (allowing a common sense margin of safety so we don't reach the actual 3.6kW limit)

You will need a DC clamp meter to accurately measure each individual panel in a string's contribution or lack thereof to the combined string performance. As often reinforced on this forum, I insist that no DIYer or RE professional worth his salt can get by without a DC clamp meter or suitable substitute - with a DC clamp, you will be able to test each panel's behaviour in live operations without interrupting or disrupting the circuit.

Please clarify what you mean by the 'chinese are vertical while the renogy are horizontal'

earthrealm:
So upgraded my villa setup1.5kw 24v setup to 2kw 24v on epsolar 60amp mppt charge controller.
Need confirmation...that epsolar can handle the excess watts..just incase the panels decide to suprise me by producing above 90%.

I switched from a 3 x 2 setup to a 4 x 2 config.
I have 4 x 250w renogy panels on 1 string and 4 chinese panels.2yingli n 2 suntech all 250w with close specs.
I noticed that the chinese panels easily exceeded 850w in bright sunlight...while the renogy struggled to hit 600w.
Only major diff btw the installation is the placement...while the chinese are vertical.the renogy are horizontal...could that accoun5 for the poor performance of the renogy?.

2ndly its a rudimentary setup without combiner box..just terminated the 2 strings at the cc.
Is there a handheld watts tester i cud use to check the harvest of each panel..am suspecting 1 panel may be bad in the renogy...
Wud use meter to chk the voltages of the renogy panels.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
To answer your questions, the EP Solar Max Array Size is determined by the formula [LBatt x Max Array VmP] so with a 60a controller, LBatt (Max Battery Current) is 60amps while your VmP (conventional two panels in series for a 24v system) is ~60v. 60amps x 60vMP gives you 3.6kW as the max array size with EP Solar 60a when used in a 24v system. Based on this and actual field experience you will be very okay with a 2.4kW array and safe up until 3kW of PV panels even (allowing a common sense margin of safety so we don't reach the actual 3.6kW limit)

A 60A MPPT CC will output a maximum of 60A at the battery voltage not Vmp. In a nominal 24v system, the theoretical maximum array size is about 1,440W (24V X 60A). If you factor in cable lose and other inefficiencies, the array size can then go up to 1,800W.

Although, most good quality CC will handle oversized array by simply clamping down the output current to its rated capacity, oversizing by a factor of 100% might be too much for the CC to handle.

bigrovar:
@pranil

On the axpert inverters particularly the ipowerplus model. I finally figured out a way to log the inverter output/inputs without buying the $60 AICC software. It basically hs to do with probing the /dev/hidraw0 interface directly and formatting the output to json and uploading it to emoncms. The problem I am now having is the current shunt measurement seem to limited to power load above 100w. anything below 100w is recorded as 0 watt output and 0 system load. I see this even on the inverter display.. I need to be pulling about 120w before the inverter registers the output. This is a problem for me because my night load is often times below 80w (especially when the house goes to bed) and during that period inverter records 0 output.. defeating the whole essence of logging in the first place.

Do you experience this same issue with AICC? I am using the 3kva 24v model

I tried it but my PC ( desktop) takes higherr than 100 Watt so currentely very difficult to test unless I shudown many things ( NAS, Switches, HUBS etc)

but in general no inverter can report values accurately - Even normal measuring systems as per IEC standard are allowed to be inaccurate below 25% of the rated current . Only expensive stuff measures above 1 % normally all meters seen in residnetial office use are 5 % accuracy class

If you really need to monitor low load I would suggest following meter which can work on Modbus ( RS485)and then you can get very accurate readings . I use one with 3phases to monitor my house

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SDM120-C-5-45-A-230V-50HZ-60HZ-single-phase-two-wire-din-rail-energy-meter/32515975062.html

If no direct connection to PC is possible you will need modbus to ethernet ( or if using raspberry pi) a modbus adapter

http://www.metern.org/

https://info.kmtronic.com/raspberry-pi-modbus-energy-meter-1.html

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Boss! What is the nameplate VmP on your panels? 4 panels in series seems to be dancing rather close to the 145/150vDC controller limit biko. Most 250w panels have VMP in the 30 to 32vDC range and 4 in series may be able to make enough voltage to brick your CC or did you mean 4 parallel strings with each string having 2 panels in series?

And if I recall right someone here (maybe you ) played with 4 panels in series in the past and bricked his MorningStar. In a 24v nominal battery system and with this basic controller, I don't see any advantage you would get having array voltage around 120v.

To answer your questions, the EP Solar Max Array Size is determined by the formula [LBatt x Max Array VmP] so with a 60a controller, LBatt (Max Battery Current) is 60amps while your VmP (conventional two panels in series for a 24v system) is ~60v. 60amps x 60vMP gives you 3.6kW as the max array size with EP Solar 60a when used in a 24v system. Based on this and actual field experience you will be very okay with a 2.4kW array and safe up until 3kW of PV panels even (allowing a common sense margin of safety so we don't reach the actual 3.6kW limit)

You will need a DC clamp meter to accurately measure each individual panel in a string's contribution or lack thereof to the combined string performance. As often reinforced on this forum, I insist that no DIYer or RE professional worth his salt can get by without a DC clamp meter or suitable substitute - with a DC clamp, you will be able to test each panel's behaviour in live operations without interrupting or disrupting the circuit.

Please clarify what you mean by the 'chinese are vertical while the renogy are horizontal'

Lol..bro i have danced with the devil once..wasnt fun..not dancing with that fellow again..my MS kicked the bucket..cos of that dance..sry i used 4 x2...what i mean is that.i hooked up 2x 2..then paralleled 2units 2x2. Did that for the renogy..repeated same for the chinese..n used the dual 10mm armoured cable to run each string(composed of 4 panels)..a distance of about 30 to 40ft.
Attached is a pictorial representation of my setup..its in the villa..and a lil crude..lol.
Its hooked up to a 24v 1500kva old school luminous n 4 x 12v x 200ah fla batts
Thus i have 2 pairs of the 10mm combo cable going to my cc

My Oga!

I was not theorizing but quoting the EP Solar manual nearly verbatim plus a healthy dose of field experience.

The question is to what degree can I oversize my solar array with the EP Solar 60a CC and also is a 2.4kw PV array too much for my EP Solar 60a controller when operating at 24v nominal battery voltage given that the max useable array wattage on the label sticker is 1600w?

The EP Solar manual says that the maximum array size for any given nominal battery voltage is determined by the formula LBatt x PV Array VmP. LBatt is maximum battery current (set at 60a for the EP Solar CC under discussion) while the VmP will vary depending on the panel configuration chosen. For safety, I assumed a 2 in series panel config for a 24v system and a 3 in series panel config so you can oversize up to 3.6kW for a 24v nominal system and 5.4kW for a 48v nominal battery system. I am assuming each panel can do 30vDC VmP to stay within safe sizing limits.

I will attach the referenced page of the manual to this post when I get home tonight.

dapsyra:


A 60A MPPT CC will output a maximum of 60A at the battery voltage not Vmp. In a nominal 24v system, the theoretical maximum array size is about 1,440W (24V X 60A). If you factor in cable lose and other inefficiencies, the array size can then go up to 1,800W.

Although, most good quality CC will handle oversized array by simply clamping down the output current to its rated capacity, oversizing by a factor of 100% might be too much for the CC to handle.

bigrovar:


2 ways of disabling charging on the unit. Via the Battery type selector choose "not used" you can also do it via the charging current settings. Choose 0%. Those two options disables charging from the unit completely. (used the Victron battery monitor to verify that indeed charging was disabled when those options are selected)

If you are on a pre paid meter and you have sufficient solar pv. It is better to disable inverter charging to better utilise your solar and reduce electricity bills.

I used a sperate device to do this with my SUKAM

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Q4500W-solar-controller-with-intelligent-dual-power-transfer-function-24V-AC220V-240V-Free-shipping/32745597109.html

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga!

I was not theorizing but quoting the EP Solar manual nearly verbatim plus a healthy dose of field experience.

The question is to what degree can I oversize my solar array with the EP Solar 60a CC and also is a 2.4kw PV array too much for my EP Solar 60a controller when operating at 24v nominal battery voltage given that the max useable array wattage on the label sticker is 1600w?

The EP Solar manual says that the maximum array size for any given nominal battery voltage is determined by the formula LBatt x PV Array VmP. LBatt is maximum battery current (set at 60a for the EP Solar CC under discussion) while the VmP will vary depending on the panel configuration chosen. For safety, I assumed a 2 in series panel config for a 24v system and a 3 in series panel config so you can oversize up to 3.6kW for a 24v nominal system and 5.4kW for a 48v nominal battery system. I am assuming each panel can do 30vDC VmP to stay within safe sizing limits.

I will attach the referenced page of the manual to this post when I get home tonight.

I never said the array cannot be oversized to 3.6KW or beyond. I only said that oversizing by a factor of 100% of the CC capacity might not be beneficial since most MPPT CC will just clamp output to its rated capacity and ignore the excess available power.

This forum is a free forum and that's the beauty. I am not the owner of this thread but we will not sell info here, if one person doesn't answer others will

JUO:
so guys be ready to pay for information, even though is not now but very soon we will get there

I agree. It is generally not efficient to oversize an array too much. But the point of oversizing is really not efficiency but rather guaranteeing a certain yield even in suboptimal weather conditions e.g. an oversized 3.6kW array may manage to produce 40a in bad weather but do a steady 60a from 11am to 3pm on a good day.

Of course a lot of power is wasted on a good day where you have 3.6kw array and can only use 1.6kw of it but on a bad weather day, all those extra panels will help you get by comfortably.

dapsyra:


I never said the array cannot be oversized to 3.6KW or beyond. I only said that oversizing by a factor of 100% of the CC capacity might not be beneficial since most MPPT CC will just clamp output to its rated capacity and ignore the excess available power.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga!
. For safety, I assumed a 2 in series panel config for a 24v system and a 3 in series panel config so you can oversize up to 3.6kW for a 24v nominal system and 5.4kW for a 48v nominal

I will attach the referenced page of the manual to this post when I get home tonight.

So i take it am in the clear with my 2kw array.still no clue on how i was hitting 890w/31amps easily on 1 string of dual 2 x 2 chinese panels of 1kw.in p3ak sunlight...but the renogy usa string was struggling in 600w! Range

You are good to go Sir.

Get a DC clamp meter to troubleshoot your Renogy panels performance - if each panel in each string is giving out power as it should then you may have to consider that the cardinal orientation of your Renogy and 'Chinese' Panels are different. So the chinese panels may be more favourably mounted hence better results than the Renogy.

One thing you may try in lieu of a DC meter is to disconnect the entire array and test each set of 2 in series Renogy panels using the CC amps display as a gauge - connect only one string at a time and see if the two separate strings connected to CC individually perform thesame or not - this should narrow you down to the faulty PV string if there is a faulty panel in the mix.

These checks would be easier with a sort of combiner box because you could connect or disconnect an entire array or the individual elements with the flip of a switch.

earthrealm:


So i take it am in the clear with my 2kw array.still no clue on how i was hitting 890w/31amps easily on 1 string of dual 2 x 2 chinese panels of 1kw.in p3ak sunlight...but the renogy usa string was struggling in 600w! Range

DISCOUNTED PRICES!!!


Joysolar panels best price follows:


100w poly 18500
100w mono 19500
150w poly 23000
200w mono 33000
260w poly 35500
260w mono 39000
320w poly 45500

Contact,
Smartcell global services
Call: 081-350-31951
WhatsApp: +234-817-038-5620

totalgreen01:
baba u funny and sort of true, kiekie me i remember u back in the days o!

Longest time Bro ! Quite an age ... My regards

bigrovar:


2 ways of disabling charging on the unit. Via the Battery type selector choose "not used" you can also do it via the charging current settings. Choose 0%. Those two options disables charging from the unit completely. (used the Victron battery monitor to verify that indeed charging was disabled when those options are selected)

If you are on a pre paid meter and you have sufficient solar pv. It is better to disable inverter charging to better utilise your solar and reduce electricity bills.

Hello Bigrovar, its synonymous to the "solar priority" DIP switch in the newer version of powerstar light pure sinewave inverters .. It enables clients to choose between solar charge only or phcn/gen.

Image:Courtesy Makavele

Hello house , for clients who keep calling to ask me major differences between MONO & POLY solar panels.. Kindly watch this short educative youtube clip via link below;

Please feel free to like the post if you benefited from the video clip "Likers association of Nairaland" .

Thanks



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCq0K3DlFdc

Oga DMerciful, your loyal student dey hail o.

DMerciful:
This forum is a free forum and that's the beauty. I am not the owner of this thread but we will not sell info here, if one person doesn't answer others will

kiekie1:


Hello Bigrovar, its synonymous to the "solar priority" DIP switch in the newer version of powerstar light pure sinewave inverters .. It enables clients to choose between solar charge only or phcn/gen.

Image:Courtesy Makavele

Hahaha; nice one !!!!

makavele:


Hahaha; nice one !!!!

Yep! Had to capture that via whatsapp .. What are friends for .. Am grateful !

Oga KieKie,

No the 'Solar Priority' setting on the PowerStar light is not synonymous with disabling charging as BigRovar described.

Solar Priority will power loads from the battery until the low voltage cutoff point (11.5v for a 12v battery) and then run one full battery recharge cycle before going back to sourcing power from the batteries - I have attached a pic from the manual.

In Solar Priority, the inverter drains the battery and is not in line (bypass) mode until the low voltage cutoff point. When you disable charging as BigRovar described, you basically source power directly from the grid or gen and the batteries are not drained at all while there is grid or gen available.

There is a battery voltage profile setting # 9 on the PowerStar which should behave exactly as BigRovar described for his own Felicity.

Just to ensure the correct information is out there...

kiekie1:


Hello Bigrovar , its synonymous to the "solar priority" DIP switch in the newer version of powerstar light pure sinewave inverters .. It enables clients to choose between solar charge only or phcn/gen.

Image:Courtesy Makavele

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga KieKie,

No the 'Solar Priority' setting on the PowerStar light is not synonymous with disabling charging as BigRovar described.

Solar Priority will power loads from the battery until the low voltage cutoff point (11.5v for a 12v battery) and then run one full battery recharge cycle before going back to sourcing power from the batteries - I have attached a pic from the manual.

In Solar Priority, the inverter drains the battery and is not in line (bypass) mode until the low voltage cutoff point. When you disable charging as BigRovar described, you basically source power directly from the grid or gen and the batteries are not drained at all while there is grid or gen available.

There is a battery voltage profile setting # 9 on the PowerStar which should behave exactly as BigRovar described for his own Felicity.

Just to ensure the correct information is out there...

Work load stress ! Guess I simply misunderstood him"hoping your explanation is really what Bigrover meant" ! Its a user defined inverter and has adjustable charging/current settings OK ! The manual gives end users right info as usual !! Thanks for the sermon .. Cheer's!

kiekie1:
DISCOUNTED PRICES!!!


Joysolar panels best price follows:


100w poly 18500
100w mono 19500
150w poly 23000
200w mono 33000
260w poly 35500
260w mono 39000
320w poly 45500

Contact,
Smartcell global services
Call: 081-350-31951
WhatsApp: +234-817-038-5620

Any 255 watts panel in the above price range?

DUNKA:
Any 255 watts panel in the above price range?

Nope. 255w I supplied few years ago was solar world brand i guess,which isn't available for now unless I help you source. Feel free to use 260w if interested Sir ! Thanks

kiekie1:


Yep! Had to capture that via whatsapp .. What are friends for .. Am grateful !

Thanks for being grateful, but you should still pay for "copyrighted" content marketing

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga KieKie,

No the 'Solar Priority' setting on the PowerStar light is not synonymous with disabling charging as BigRovar described.

Solar Priority will power loads from the battery until the low voltage cutoff point (11.5v for a 12v battery) and then run one full battery recharge cycle before going back to sourcing power from the batteries - I have attached a pic from the manual.

In Solar Priority, the inverter drains the battery and is not in line (bypass) mode until the low voltage cutoff point. When you disable charging as BigRovar described, you basically source power directly from the grid or gen and the batteries are not drained at all while there is grid or gen available.

There is a battery voltage profile setting # 9 on the PowerStar which should behave exactly as BigRovar described for his own Felicity.

Just to ensure the correct information is out there...

It is almost the same thing, almoooost . . .

I can confirm that in battery priority, the inverter will continue working with batteries even in the presence of grid power (mains or gen)
hence, inverter will not charge batteries. It will totally ignore the grid presence until the batteries are getting low;
if DOD is calculated well, the batteries will not reach 11.5 (for a 12V) before sun wakes up the next day.

Meanwhile on the felicity, the inverter will acknowledge the presence of grid and bypass your loads to grid, but will not charge the battery

So they are both the same thing; just that the felicity offers a more direct approach; while the must offers a cunning approach,

Peace !!

cc: kiekie1