ojeysky:
Folks if you can, go lithium FP mine has been throwing great performance thus far!

please what capacity of lithium batteries will replace eight ( 200 ah flooded batteries?

DUNKA:
please what capacity of lithium batteries will replace eight ( 200 ah flooded batteries?

I guess your 8×200ah batteries are configured in 4S 2P at 48V 400AH. If that's correct your lithium ion configuration will be 2units of 48V 200AH to be connected in parallel.

But in real sense, since Lithium battery capacity can double lead acid battery capacity you can do a unit of 48V 200AH ~ 10KW.

You can contact me for a good deal!

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guys pls this luminous hybrid inverter battery selector if you are using flooded battery and the selection points on inverter are: 1. Tubular 2. flat plate 3. Gel/VRLA where will set flooded battery?

the i,.Chg point is it suppose to be on or off?

thanks

Set to 'TUBULAR' if your battery is flooded.

I think the Luminous maxes out at 14.4v charge voltage though. Most flooded batteries prefer a high voltage charge and may die early if they are not absorbed and equalized at a sufficiently high voltage.

idsolar:
guys pls this luminous hybrid inverter battery selector if you are using flooded battery and the selection points on inverter are: 1. Tubular 2. flat plate 3. Gel/VRLA where will set flooded battery?

the i,.Chg point is it suppose to be on or off?

thanks

So no hope for folks like me with average loads in the KW range

simydan:
I have a 600w stand alone inverter which display function is really great. My battery charges to 14.4v but holds load of 78w at 13.1v and can go like that from 9am till 7pm and still have 12.9v or 12.8v...

Barezzi:
So no hope for folks like me with average loads in the KW range

There's hope for you sir!

You just need a budget, then work with it and if cash flow get as e be, then you chill for a while and plan ahead...

Hoping to have you amongst the LFP family soon Sir.

DUNKA:
please what capacity of lithium batteries will replace eight ( 200 ah flooded batteries?

The way I understand it 12v 200AH lead acid = 12v 200AH lithium. The difference comes in the depth of discharge..... while you can use lithium entirely without issues, doing so with lead acid will kill it faster. So if we work with 50% DOD as safe depth for lead acid then the equivalent for lithium will be 24V 200AH X 2
12V 200AH X 4
48V 200AH
Gurus in the house may know better though

simydan:


You can contact me for a good deal!

Can you share you prices here Sir

@Ojeysky, look ya post and run through ya numbers again.
The thing no jive at all...

the truth is that most people don't obey the 50% DOD rule for Lead Acid Batteries, a good number of Inverters in the market shut down at 40v for 48v models, which is 10 volt for a 12 v model, this is already way below the 50% DOD target for battery longevity. My point is that its not practical to believe that you need only half your lead acid battery capacity if you are switching over to any Lithium Chemistry. I used 24 pieces of Agisson 2v 500AH (48v 500AH) from 2011 to December 2016 when I switched over to Lithium. for those slightly over 5 years, my battery bank never got below 47.4v. I sold the batteries to a friend who just retired them last December and embraced Lithium also. Lead acid batteries can last a long time if well managed.

[quote author=NiyiOmoIyunade post=86349913]Set to 'TUBULAR' if your battery is flooded.

I think the Luminous maxes out at 14.4v charge voltage though. Most flooded batteries prefer a high voltage charge and may die early if they are not absorbed and equalized at a sufficiently high voltage.


[/quote

Nagode.

Thanks so much, I have informed the installer but he kept telling me different stories and arguing that the battery is good

unicmarket:


I think I get your point

This issue can be traced to your battery(probably are bad) or its that your Inverter as destroyed them; by consistent over discharging the battery, and in long term as destroyed the battery, a good Inverter should not discharge a battery below 10.5- 11v, so as not to use up the batteries to 0 level for a longer life span. Because once the sun goes down, your battery drops to about 10.8v, this may show you immediately that your battery cells could have been tampered with.

What to look out for
1. The battery (orginal?)
2. The solar charge controller( could it be that it’s overcharging the battery; which could I turn damage the cells)
3. The Inverter May have been using up the battery cells to 0point and in turn damaged the cells


I would advice you contact your installer; if you haven’t. But you could chat me up on whatsapp too ; let’s see how you can fix it. At my signature

Okay sir

ICraft:


First of all, your batteries are bad, they suffered undercharge for a long time and gave up. Secondly the daily yield from your solar array has reduced drastically as a result of dust cover. that's what destroyed the batteries. you need to wash them clean and replace your batteries. you also need to clean your panels routinely during the dry season, at least once in a month.

It is only the freezer that I have on the inverter and 1piece 15W led bulb

mank1234:


8 of 150W is 1200W.
Your total generation will be 2400 to 4800W a day depending on ambient temperature and solar insolation.
Assuming a freezer of 167W is on 2/3 of the time in a 24hr runtime = 2,671W
Asume inverter self consumption of 50W: total in a 24hr day = 1200W
Asume average of 50W for other opptunistic load (it may even be more than the 50W): total in a day = 1200W.

If you sum up usage, you'll see that generation is below consumption. At the initial stage of setup, battery was providing the balance, but now that has been depleted.

Note: This calculation is based on information provided.

ICraft:
the truth is that most people don't obey the 50% DOD rule for Lead Acid Batteries, a good number of Inverters in the market shut down at 40v for 48v models, which is 10 volt for a 12 v model, this is already way below the 50% DOD target for battery longevity. My point is that its not practical to believe that you need only half your lead acid battery capacity if you are switching over to any Lithium Chemistry. I used 24 pieces of Agisson 2v 500AH (48v 500AH) from 2011 to December 2016 when I switched over to Lithium. for those slightly over 5 years, my battery bank never got below 47.4v. I sold the batteries to a friend who just retired them last December and embraced Lithium also. Lead acid batteries can last a long time if well managed.

I totally agree with you sir! Even a grade B battery can last a bit longer if properly managed. But the problem seem to be with squeezing out more than what a back up is designed to give thereby, leading to abuse of over 50% DOD or a bad setup...

These are the reasons why LFP stands out and consider the a better replacement of lead acid how ever, availability and cost is the major challenge at the moment.

abbeyforex:
Thanks so much, I have informed the installer but he kept telling me different stories and arguing that the battery is good

Ohh, no problem, if you would, chat me up on my whatsapp no at my signature

Barezzi:
@Ojeysky, look ya post and run through ya numbers again.
The thing no jive at all...

Am open to correction Sir, I assumed 100% DOD for lithium and 50% DOD for Lead Acid....Oya tell me where I misyarn

ojeysky:


Am open to correction Sir, I assumed 100% DOD for lithium and 50% DOD for Lead Acid....Oya tell me where I misyarn

from my Opinion, there is no battery that is happy with 100%DOD, that's an invitation to short lifespan. I am completely off grid in my office, I use Lithium Ion and my BMS allows maximum voltage per cell 4.1v during charging and lowest discharge level is 3.2v per cell. that range accounts for about 70%DOD. I have had no noticeable capacity loss since I installed the Lithium ion (December 2016). The case would have been different if I do 100%DOD

ICraft:


from my Opinion, there is no battery that is happy with 100%DOD, that's an invitation to short lifespan. I am completely off grid in my office, I use Lithium Ion and my BMS allows maximum voltage per cell 4.1v during charging and lowest discharge level is 3.2v per cell. that range accounts for about 70%DOD. I have had no noticeable capacity loss since I installed the Lithium ion (December 2016). The case would have been different if I do 100%DOD

I agree that putting the lithium consistently at 100% DOD will certainly affect life span in the long run (just as doing 50% lead will as well). However the intention was to give a capacity equivalent else I will actually say the better DOD spot for a lead acid will be 20/30% while that of lithium is good at 70/80%. That way the lead acid may be able to survive up to 75% life span of a lithium. It still won't last the years of a good lithium but should be close.

That said, am curious at your lithium voltage figures, do you mean your batteries actually hold voltage at 4.1v? As that seem like a max charge voltage to me (though I don't even get the high in my case).

ojeysky:


I agree that putting the lithium consistently at 100% DOD will certainly affect life span in the long run (just as doing 50% lead will as well). However the intention was to give a capacity equivalent else I will actually say the better DOD spot for a lead acid will be 20/30% while that of lithium is good at 70/80%. That way the lead acid may be able to survive up to 75% life span of a lithium. It still won't last the years of a good lithium but should be close.

That said, am curious at your lithium voltage figures, do you mean your batteries actually hold voltage at 4.1v? As that seem like a max charge voltage to me (though I don't even get the high in my case).

I believe your Battery is Lithium ion Phosphate (LifePO4). your max voltage per cell is considerably lower, about 3.6v per cell. I use Lithium Ion. Max charge voltage per cell is 4.2v. I set my BMS to shut down Charging once any cell pack reaches that set voltage (4.1v). I don't do float charge

ojeysky:


I agree that putting the lithium consistently at 100% DOD will certainly affect life span in the long run (just as doing 50% lead will as well). However the intention was to give a capacity equivalent else I will actually say the better DOD spot for a lead acid will be 20/30% while that of lithium is good at 70/80%. That way the lead acid may be able to survive up to 75% life span of a lithium. It still won't last the years of a good lithium but should be close.

That said, am curious at your lithium voltage figures, do you mean your batteries actually hold voltage at 4.1v? As that seem like a max charge voltage to me (though I don't even get the high in my case).

He might be using 18650 cells which has a voltage of 3.7V against 3.2V for LFP cells.

So, expect his charging voltage to be higher as nominal cell voltage is higher.

Correct me if I'm wrong sir!

hello house,

i have a solar installation: 24V system, 1200Watts PV array, SuNex 130A MPPT CC (used to have an Epever CC which the installer blew up and replaced with this) 2 200AH Quanta batteries, bought last year and a bluegate 2KVA / 24V inverter. In my location as early as 10am, the battery indicators on each battery is already reading 14.1V because we have plenty sun .

the issue is that since i changed from the Prag inverter i was using before to this bluegate inverter, when there is no NEPA and the inverter is on at this time, it goes turns off once the voltage reading on each of the battery gets to 14.1V and except i put plenty load on the inverter to bring the voltage down, it keeps tripping off, which i suspect is due to excess current and the possibility that the battery is full and the solar is still charging the battery (i may be wrong and i stand to be corrected). i also read it somewhere that Quanta manufacturers have a cut off voltage for longevity of their batteries at a much lower voltage (between 13.5-13.6 thereabout). i contacted an installer about the problem and he said i should install a circuit breaker between:

i. the Solar Panels and the CC (60A)
ii. the CC and the battery (30A)
iii. the battery and the inverter (30A)

this instruction is a bit strange to me and i am humbly asking the house what they think the problem might be and if the recommendation of the installer should be followed and if not, what should be done. I am counting on the house o. this investment must not waste o. Thank you.

I suspect your Solar Charge Controller, it may not be working well.

Have you tried disconnecting your Panels as at when the inverter starts tripping OFF?

If you haven't, please do and observe the inverter's behaviour.

oliyeniun:
hello house,

i have a solar installation: 24V system, 1200Watts PV array, SuNex 130A MPPT CC (used to have an Epever CC which the installer blew up and replaced with this) 2 200AH Quanta batteries, bought last year and a bluegate 2KVA / 24V inverter. In my location as early as 10am, the battery indicators on each battery is already reading 14.1V because we have plenty sun .

the issue is that since i changed from the Prag inverter i was using before to this bluegate inverter, when there is no NEPA and the inverter is on at this time, it goes turns off once the voltage reading on each of the battery gets to 14.1V and except i put plenty load on the inverter to bring the voltage down, it keeps tripping off, which i suspect is due to excess current and the possibility that the battery is full and the solar is still charging the battery (i may be wrong and i stand to be corrected). i also read it somewhere that Quanta manufacturers have a cut off voltage for longevity of their batteries at a much lower voltage (between 13.5-13.6 thereabout). i contacted an installer about the problem and he said i should install a circuit breaker between:

i. the Solar Panels and the CC (60A)
ii. the CC and the battery (30A)
iii. the battery and the inverter (30A)

this instruction is a bit strange to me and i am humbly asking the house what they think the problem might be and if the recommendation of the installer should be followed and if not, what should be done. I am counting on the house o. this investment must not waste o. Thank you.

ojeysky:


I agree that putting the lithium consistently at 100% DOD will certainly affect life span in the long run (just as doing 50% lead will as well). However the intention was to give a capacity equivalent else I will actually say the better DOD spot for a lead acid will be 20/30% while that of lithium is good at 70/80%. That way the lead acid may be able to survive up to 75% life span of a lithium. It still won't last the years of a good lithium but should be close.

That said, am curious at your lithium voltage figures, do you mean your batteries actually hold voltage at 4.1v? As that seem like a max charge voltage to me (though I don't even get the high in my case).

His numbers suggest his own brand is likely 1-8-6-5-0 cells. They max out at 4.2, nominal at 3.2 and Low discharge protection at 2.9. So in this sense, he can still comfortably discharge it further to 3.0v per cell without harming the battery.

@Ojesky, yours is LFP and the voltage parameters are quite different from that of his. In his case, 12v nominal is achieved with 3s config while in the case of yours, 12v nominal is achieved with a 4s config.

ICraft:


I believe your Battery is Lithium ion Phosphate (LifePO4). your max voltage per cell is considerably lower, about 3.6v per cell. I use Lithium Ion. Max charge voltage per cell is 4.2v. I set my BMS to shut down Charging once any cell pack reaches that set voltage (4.1v). I don't do float charge

Sorry I didn't know that has been responded to.

But sha bro ICraft wehdone o.

How have you managed with 18650 for so long? I believe your pack isn't DIY but most likely factory made.

ceaser:


Sorry I didn't know that has been responded to.

But sha bro ICraft wehdone o.

How have you managed with 18650 for so long? I believe your pack isn't DIY but most likely factory made.

purely DIY, I have a very stringent test process, first test for heaters with thermal camera, we then test for capacity( I have 180 liitokala Lii-500 capacity testers that can test 720 batteries per day. 4 batteries each) then we test for self discharge. out of lets say 10,000 cells, only about 4,0000 may pass. we don't solder cells, we spot weld to avoid corrosion. finally we use 4amp fuse wire to link all the cells to the bus bars. we also use active cell balancers lastly, a well caliberated BMS that you can trust. I dont expect any less than 5 years from my batteries. you are right my office is a factory, and its open to the diy community to come in, test and build packs for a litttle fee and go. all tools you need and more available. powered by 42 pcs 320 watts solar panels and 80KWH of 18650cells.

oliyeniun:
hello house,

i have a solar installation: 24V system, 1200Watts PV array, SuNex 130A MPPT CC (used to have an Epever CC which the installer blew up and replaced with this) 2 200AH Quanta batteries, bought last year and a bluegate 2KVA / 24V inverter. In my location as early as 10am, the battery indicators on each battery is already reading 14.1V because we have plenty sun .

the issue is that since i changed from the Prag inverter i was using before to this bluegate inverter, when there is no NEPA and the inverter is on at this time, it goes turns off once the voltage reading on each of the battery gets to 14.1V and except i put plenty load on the inverter to bring the voltage down, it keeps tripping off, which i suspect is due to excess current and the possibility that the battery is full and the solar is still charging the battery (i may be wrong and i stand to be corrected). i also read it somewhere that Quanta manufacturers have a cut off voltage for longevity of their batteries at a much lower voltage (between 13.5-13.6 thereabout). i contacted an installer about the problem and he said i should install a circuit breaker between:

i. the Solar Panels and the CC (60A)
ii. the CC and the battery (30A)
iii. the battery and the inverter (30A)

this instruction is a bit strange to me and i am humbly asking the house what they think the problem might be and if the recommendation of the installer should be followed and if not, what should be done. I am counting on the house o. this investment must not waste o. Thank you.

I am suspecting that the inverter battery over-voltage cut off set point is likely on 28vdc. if I am in your shoes I will change the CC maximum battery charge cut-off set from 14.1 to 14 or 13.9v to check

ICraft:


purely DIY, I have a very stringent test process, first test for heaters with thermal camera, we then test for capacity( I have 180 liitokala Lii-500 capacity testers that can test 720 batteries per day. 4 batteries each) then we test for self discharge. out of lets say 10,000 cells, only about 4,0000 may pass. we don't solder cells, we spot weld to avoid corrosion. finally we use 4amp fuse wire to link all the cells to the bus bars. we also use active cell balancers lastly, a well caliberated BMS that you can trust. I dont expect any less than 5 years from my batteries. you are right my office is a factory, and its open to the diy community to come in, test and build packs for a litttle fee and go. all tools you need and more available. powered by 42 pcs 320 watts solar panels and 80KWH of 18650cells.

So can you build a pack for me 200AH 48V?

adrusa:


So can you build a pack for me 200AH 48V?

If you have the time, it's more affordable for you to buy cells and do your packs yourself, but if you don't have the time reach me on phone. we can easily do that for you. my contact is a bove

ICraft:


I believe your Battery is Lithium ion Phosphate (LifePO4). your max voltage per cell is considerably lower, about 3.6v per cell. I use Lithium Ion. Max charge voltage per cell is 4.2v. I set my BMS to shut down Charging once any cell pack reaches that set voltage (4.1v). I don't do float charge

Thanks for the clarification. I heard those lithium ion are quite dangerous for newbies if charging and connections is not handled properly but I can see that you are Pro DIY user wey pass my level. Make people like us dey manage LFP jeje

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