₦airaland Forum

Dam5reey:
This is my video too, watch to see my recommendation!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL-Yt_O8E44&t=11s

So you never charge above 3.5v, yet you made argued in 2 pages of this thread why one can charge to 3.65v.
Imagine many people who took that wrong advice and didn't return to see that even you don't charge to that high voltage.

Try to talk your truth everytime.

Weldone big bro.

Haykay2001:
It's a normal thing for tubular batteries. Your battry/battries are fine.. Bulk, flot charge will automatically cut off when there is no longer external power source.. It then move to full state.. Kindly note this.. ✌️

Hi... You said you sent me a DM but I can't see it sir.
Please kindly drop the message here on the inquiry you wanted to make

Battery SOLD

Gbengakolade1:
Good morning bosses
Pls I want to make enquiries abt Starlink v3

1. The installation process
2. Monthly plan
3. Any issues with location cuz it’s meant to be installed in Ogunstate Ota to be precise
4. Signing up

Read through thread. Has been answered million times

georgee:
My speed this morning

Lagos

Slow speed. Hope it improves

For Abuja residents pls

skywalker95:
Hello house. I think I made a mistake by buying 4mm DC cables. I intend using two Jinko 615w panels. Please, is there any risk of fire hazard with this wire or will I only lose efficiency from my panels?

In everything, always use higher than recommended cables to secure you in future. 4mm is toooo small

bassdow:
it's not a myth but pure physics.
Ever wondered why measuring Voltage from Solar panel's terminal when connected to battery and charging, reads the battery bank's voltage BUT those figures jumps very high the moment the battery is disconnected ?

Someone in this group literally showed pics evidence that he paralleled 550kw, 200kw and some other kW panel and solar controller gave him a perfect addition of them all without losing from the smallest rated panel. How did that work?

skywalker95:
Good evening. Please, I want to decide between transformer based and hybrid inverter. My installer is saying I should use hybrid because it allows float charge and transformer based does not allow float charge even with an external charge controller. The orientation I have is that transformer based inverter is better than hybrid inverter for tubular batteries. I need advise on the right type of inverter to choose.

Once installers begin to dish false info with confidence better run. It's a sign there are other things he doesn't know and he'll mess up your solar investment.

Wetin concern transformer and floating?

Your question is also wrong. You should be comparing transformer based and transformer-less inverter. There are transformer based that are hybrid and transformer-less that are not hybrid. Hybrid just means that it can handle power sources from solar, battery and grid. They have internal solar charger. Non hybrid does not have solar controller, you need to buy it yourself.

Transformer based is heavy and occupies space but will outlast and outlive transformer-less which easily spoils when a kind of heavy load hits it. It's inverts electronically. Transformer-less are also cheaper.

Choose any one sha, it'll work

Trippledots:
@bolded....if it didn't break completely, you could have tested them before discarding. Cracked glass panels can still do their job most times.

I believe you.
One is just cracked throughout the body, and I later used it in another part of my building to carry a fridge/freezer and just that one panel cracked is doing it perfectly. For how long will it last, don't know.

The second one not only cracked but a hole was created. I didn't use that one any other place coz I'm scared water/rain will enter the hole and damage cells. If there's an advice for me to still use it, pls I'll need some.

Anyway, I decided not to include those two because of the myth that adding panels that produce less wattage will affect the general production if connected with good ones. Don't know how true, but that fear made me not to add it to the other 8.

Dam5reey1:
Seplos Charging Voltage...

Interprete 58.4V...

Make una learn una dey argue.. and using some info wey no get fact to support it except for marketing gimmick and Covering of Battery Flaws!

Dey play...
Same seplos that says voltage from 42v to 58.4v, says you'll get to their listed cycles only if you use their battery at 90% DOD, then plus 70% standard capacity. They don't advice you to to 2.6v to 3.65V. You respect their specification by charging to lower voltage 3.45v-3.55v and putting undervoltage cutoff at 3.0v

One of their conditions too is 25ºc temperature which you know it's hard to attain in Nigeria constantly.
The odds are against us everywhere to keep our battery long lasting, yet you want to add to the stress by charging to 3.65V coz you saw it written that it can go to that.

While don't you run your car engine to 6000rpm always coz your car wrote that it can do it, and see if you won't change engine after 3 years.

odimbannamdi:
Are you on 48v with each of your cell being 280ah? If not, what is the configuration of your cells?

Also, I see you use 8 units of 550w Jinko panels. How are they connected and with what controller?

Yes, 48v 280ah.

I bought 10 with the intention of using 9 of the 555w jinko. Wanted to connect them in sets of 3s in series and sets in parallel. But 2 panels broke while transporting to the forest where I live.
So I had to do 4 sets of 2 panels. A set contains 2 panels in series and all connected in parallel. So I get like 100v of pv.

Thank God I bought 16mm pv cable coz that's what will carry such high amp that will be produced very comfortably. That big cable ensures you get close full capacity of your panels, coz if it's smaller cable I will lose a lot due to heat. With the 16mm, even at 10am I get 4.1kw

I'm using 100ahm felicity charge controller. I don't use hybrid cos at times I leave the forest for 2 months and I need to put off inverter and just let the charge controller keep charging the battery. I did so coz I was using gel batteries before and you know how they lose volts without floating it. But now I have lithium I think I can put off the battery and after 2 months it will have little change to the volts I left it with.

dollarnaira:
You guys are saying same thing in different ways.

Charge to 3.65v on initial installation but subsequently, charge to 3.50v each time.

Has anyone used LifePO4 up to 10yrs here?

Yes, someone has used for 12yrs, and he confesses never charging at high voltage. On YouTube you'll see people who have used for 8+ years and kicking strong. Mek I no come de sound like "dem say dem say"

Dam5reey1:
Ehehn.. these guys are Recommending Low charge profile to cover their flaws, in choice of cells and BMSes.

Cells can safely charge to 3.65V without any negative impact. They were designed to operate that way...

Limiting your usage to only 60% to prolong your batteries is a marketing gimmicks..

Just like Cells Cycles ratings are 8000Cycles 4000 cycles, they are just playing with numbers.

And never compare Cell phone batteries to LFP, they are different applications, different chemistry.

A Phone batteries experience up to 1C Charge and Discharge.. some Phone do up 3C..

Now check what your own LFP Batteries, they dont even see 0.5C not to talk of 1C. But you are there shouting dont charge to 3.65V as if the batteries were not made and tested to that voltage before getting rated 6000Cycles, 2500 Cycles labels you see.

Before Samsung release the Folding phone, you think they didnt testing how long you can fold the phone before wear and tear. And someone will just wake up and say for your phone to last long only open and close it once daily....

First you dared to down talk reputable name as Valto who Nigerians have used his products for many years. You did that, even bolded it, just to prove a point. That's wrong move.

Just read through the page. People have dropped words from high lithium companies like Pylontech and Sako and Co. They all confirmed what I've been saying. Not even one... Not even one recommended charging their battery at 3.65v.
You are the only one with this in here just because you want to sell a charger.

You are not a novice in lithium, yet we learn daily. You will do more good bettering your knowledge on this issue and advice people properly. Nigeria is messed up and things are bad. Best we can do for one another is give advice that will bring economical help to people instead of trying to maximise profit for ourselves.

Dam5reey1:
Never be charged to 3.65.. LMAO.. who is teaching you all these, US community who are not major battery maker?

According to All LFP manufacturers, they say test at 1C from 3.65 to 2.5V..

Attached is EVE.. so quoting community or video for charging parameters is irrelevant...

Start testing things yourself.

Bro, we've people in the house here who literally make lithium batteries like Valto.
When they do their test, and balancing, they charge to full 3.65v before selling to you.
But they don't expect you to charge that high if you want your battery to live long. If you don't, they don't also mind because in few years you'll run back to them buying another one.

You just read in comments above that Pylontech, cworth, sako, anker etc all tell you to charge with range of 3.45v-3.55v. No company will tell you to charge at 3.65v if want to be sincere and protect their good name.

Even your phone maker tells you not to charge your phone to 100% but rather 80%. You think they don't know what they doing telling you that?

mank1234:
1hp ac in gen mode consumes 300-350W

Oh.. Didn't know that

HeavenlyBang:
Why not use AC at night then? You're effectively just wasting energy that you could be using? If your battery is already filled by 10am right now, surely you could run your AC all night and still have your battery filled by 1/2 pm.

If I run AC, that thing that consumes 1kwh, by morning won't it finish my 14kwh battery? Except i run it for like 6 hours at night only.

But truth be said, during the day the panels are wasting coz after charging at 4kwh from solar, once its filled up at 10am, it reduces to 400w which is all I use during the day. Over 3kwh from solar that could handle AC is just wasting.

To consider again is, do you think it'll stress the 5kva felicity inverter?

obitobe:
This dashboard from Bigrovar https://energy.openculture.org.ng/dashboard/view?id=49 will answer all your questions

Wow... Very interesting.

You de consume for your house oh.
10kwh solar panels is huge.

I use half of your setup.
14kw lithium battery.
4.4kw solar panels
5kw inverter.

I've no AC. Just fans and TV and lights at night. Every morning, before 10pm battery is already filled up to 100%.

All I need now is how to put my system online like this your own. I use felicity inverter.

Iinnov8:
You could have a point, and it is also a reinforced learning for me. I believe that explains why recent laptops and phones are designed to charge to a maximum of 85%

But then, most people will not have their batteries getting charged to that max voltage everyday due to improperly sized panels and insufficient grid supply, so the likelihood of the outcome of the risk of max charging is very low.

Also, let us talk about the trade-off between under-charging to have the battery last for 20 years but getting less backup time, and max charging to get more backup time (probably 2 hours more) and have the battery last for 5 - 6years.

What are your thoughts?

Its not really undercharging if you understand lithium technology. Whether you charge at 3.45 or high as 3.65v, once you stop charging and add load to lithium, it'll quickly drop to a settled voltage of around 3.31-3.32v and start an almost straight line discharge. From 3.65v to that 3.3v will take like 10 minutes. From 3.45 to 3.3v will take like lesser 5 mins. So you are not gaining 2hours as you imagine.

The only difference is that in lower voltage, you are protecting your battery and in higher one you are stressing and killing your battery. At 3.45v you battery is like 90% full. So it's better you use lower voltage to charge and make your battery last for years than forcing it to 100% 3.65v or 14.6v or 29.2 or 58. 4v.

kristien4:
Pylontech charges at 56 to 56.8, in your opinion, is that a good range. And secondly, dont you feel a brand as big as Pylontech would have considered all these technicalities before setting their battery bms?

Pylontech confirms what I said.
56 = 3.50v
56.8 = 3.55v

They clearly tell by this never to charge at 3.65v which is 58.4v.

Though they gave you that range, they'll work well and save the battery in long run, but the best option is 56v. You can even go low to 55.6v if you can set it yourself.

Its also good never to discharge below 48v or 3.0v per cell. You can oh, but as I said, it's not adviced for health of battery.

bigrovar:
https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/453590/share/df9180a7

Bro, I really love that you can remotely see your setup and consumption online. I've been watching your dashboard since yesterday like I de watch big brother Nigeria.

I'm curious to know... What's the lithium battery size you are using now?
What's the total amount of solar panels you are using and brand? I'm surprised that at early morning with cloudy weather you already getting 3.6kwh from panels.
What is giving out this info we see on your dashboard? The inverter? Or something else you added to your installation? What brand? Connected to Internet?


Sorry, too much questions. Pls help me answer the ones you can. Thanks bro

dustmalik:
Starlink has been horrible today. The service had been good throughout the week, and I was starting to think that it had finally improved, given the recent poor performance.

However, it's been absolutely horrifying today. I hope this is not as a result of NCC not allowing them to implement the new subscription pricing, because I would rather they are allowed to, so that customers can have better service quality.

Lagos and Abuja problem. Port Harcourt joined in the problem.

For the rest of us, speed is OK.
I get 200mbps here and I'm using roaming. In the past when I used residential, I used to get to 390mbps

jmaine:
Is this real? As seen in the thread below.

https://www.nairaland.com/8187725/starlink-review-after-porting-airtel/10

After rejoicing don't forget the line they said their service to Nigeria could be a risk.
If the Nigerian regulatory authority don't let them flourish as a business, they could close Nigeria entirely.

That's bad news for me coz I live in a forest in Nigeria where no mobile network and only starlink gives me Internet.

Abeg oh, they should come to a compromise that will make all parties happy. I can't afford starlink to leave Nigeria.

Dam5reey1:
These are battery makers
Not a random chatgpt.. did you see where Charge voltage is mentioned here.


https://www.felicitysolarstore.com/understanding-the-lifespan-of-lifepo4-batteries-a-detailed-guide#:~:text=Ans%3A%20On%20average%2C%20a%20LiFePO4,Cycle%20Life%2C%20and%20proper%20Maintenance.

Go and check the charging voltage on Felicity batteries, they have 15 years+ experience..

Told you to go research, see wetin you go de search.
Watch...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEW6m-iKH8w

dollarnaira:
Well, it is a about our choices. All I know is that Samsung 26J lithium ion sheet discouraged 12.6v full charge to extend battery life. This was applied to my LifePO4 as a caution. By July next year, it will b 4yrs. It will degrade to 80% its capacity after 10 to 12years at least. So the journey of degraded lithium in still in the future where the remaining 80% will now begin another fresh journey. What a chemistry?

Every lithium company discourages charging at 14.6v. Instead of Dam5reey1 to learn from this community he is insisting in his wrong opinion.

I bought cworth 20kwh lithium battery the other day, and it clearly said to set charging voltage to 55.6v which corresponds to 13.9v.
The Aurora lithium I'm selling said same. Sako, Anker, even Japanese Samsung lithium outside the country insist on same. Lithium doesn't like being charged to 100%.

When you buy a new Samsung phone now, it tells you, you can charge your phone to 100% oh but we don't advice it. Every phone and laptop has a charging option to charge only to 80-85% so that your phone lasts for long.
My S21 is going to 4 years now, and I always charge only to 80%. My phone still stays a whole day like new, compared to my older phones I always charged to 100% and after 2 years battery is a mess. Phones and pc lithium ion.
Lithium ion and lithium phosphate should never be charged to 3.65V.

HeavenlyBang:
12 hours.

Two jinko 555w panels - 250k
Find a small 12v hybrid inverter to buy from brands like Sako, Welion, CWorth - 250k
Powmr 100aH battery -290k
Accessories and installation - 150k

Put the inverter in power saving mode so it doesn't invert if it doesn't detect a load, then buy a timer for the freezers.

You can run on solar from 8 am - 5 pm, which is 9 hours.

Set the timer to come on at midnight and go off by 3 am.

My ~200L chest freezer draws just 110w. Even a 300L freezer shouldn't take more than 150W. Two of them 300w. Three hours of use should have the battery down to about 25% of charge.

Twelve hours of runtime daily, and your freezers remains frozen for 24 hours.

Nice detailing Bro.
But why do you need to put on the freezer at night again?
My freezer runs from 8am to 5pm. At 8am next day, freezer and contents are still frozen.

Dam5reey1:
Show here the battery that died because it was charged to 14.6V

Cause all these theories does not old any waters.

Battery can be charged/Discharged from 3.65V to 2.5V.
This is how all Cells were tested out of factory..

Practically nothing happens after cells reaches 3.65V. current will reduce drastically once it approaches 3.5~3.65V

I have not seen a video or anyone with practical test showing cell Charged to 3.65V vs Cell charged to 3.5V and capacity left after 5 years.

Oga, shey we agreed you should keep charging your lithium to full 3.65V. I don't know else to say, since I've told you to go research.

Dam5reey1:
Isorite... USA..

Leave story evidence no dey....

What will be like cycle if i charge to 3.65V vs 3.5V
Show me real life batteries in use.. not Chatgpt which realies on what people are saying.

I just told you it's a SCIENTIFIC CONSENSUS in the area of lifepo4. Use your Google and search on life experiences of long time users of lifepo4 charging at high voltage like 14.6v.
Don't take my silly words. Go do your research and maybe come back to tell me thank you for opening your mind.

You are free to keep charging at 14.6v or even 15v if you want. Shey you need full battery. You'll get it.

dollarnaira:
Many Nigerians?
No ooo
Most us are are fully aware here too.
LifePO4 is regarded full from 13.7v sef. I do 13.9v though.

Hmmm. I bet you that 90% of lithium users in Nigeria have their inverter or solar charger set to default settings of 14.6v or higher.

I've checked many lithium application systems and in all I've never seen one set correctly. I always help them by resetting it to 13.9v charge and float (we force the float though lithium don't need float, because if you don't, after your battery is charged during the day, your appliances begin to run from your battery and not from the panels).

Bro, many are damaging their lithium without knowing especially as many installers don't even know, like the guy above arguing on why the manufacturer made the charger with 14.6v, asking if I know more than the company. Lol

Dam5reey1:
Where is your evidence? show us real life LFP battery failed because it was charged to 3.65V.

The Manufacturer tested them for 1C 2.5V to 3.65V, so where your evidence it wont last long?

Its Like saying those making 14.6V chargers don't know what they are doing, or the want to purposely degrade your batteries.

I follow lifepo4 contents a lot. I'm member to some lifepo4 online communities in the USA. The general consensus for top users and engineers in this area is that lifepo4 be changed at max 13.9-14.0v. Some even go lower. Some go higher. But I only shared the consensus.

I asked Chatgpt now, and here's the answer they gave.

Charging a LiFePO4 battery to 14.6V can be problematic because it places the battery near its maximum safe voltage, which can stress the cells and shorten the battery's lifespan. Here are some reasons for avoiding 14.6V as a charging limit:

1. Increased Stress on Cells: Charging to the upper voltage limit can push the cells close to overcharge, increasing stress and leading to premature aging.


2. Reduced Cycle Life: LiFePO4 batteries have a longer lifespan when not charged to the maximum voltage. Lowering the float charge (e.g., to 14.0V as you've set) can help maintain the battery's cycle life, potentially reaching or exceeding the 4000 cycles.


3. Minimal Capacity Gain: Charging from 14.0V to 14.6V typically only adds a few percent to the overall capacity. The slight gain in capacity does not compensate for the loss in lifespan caused by regular charging to the higher voltage.


4. Heat Generation: Charging at higher voltages can cause the battery to heat up slightly, which also contributes to wear and tear over time.


Keeping the voltage lower (like 14.0V) balances capacity with longevity, making it a good choice for extending your battery's useful life

Iinnov8:
Hello bro,

It is a good idea, as a newbie, to start small and learn on the go, before upgrading and going big. Most of us started small as well, mostly for budget reasons though...

For your budget, i can offer you the following:

1. Powmr 12.8v 100ah (1280wh/1/29kwh) Lithium (LiFePO4) battery for 290,000 each. Battery will come with a free voltage indicator as shown in the picture below

You can watch the load capacity test video of the battery done by a very technical Nairalander and contributor to this thread:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTtdMd25__s

You can also visit our dedicated thread to see 2 other videos he did on the battery, and also check out a few reviews from current users of the battery:
https://www.nairaland.com/8194434/powmr-12.8v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4#131666850

---

2. EASun 1600w (800w) Pure Sinewave offgrid inverter for 69,000, capable of powering your house through the mains input and carrying significant normal everyday home appliances

You can check out this hobbyist and crude video i did showing the appliances the inverter can carry


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KAuD7Bh9uk?si=CqzIQxmY5bmpRlGm

---

3. Dedicated 20A Lithium (LiFePO4) battery charger. It is a smart charger that can charge your battery to the maximum recommended charge voltage of 14.6v, and stop charging to prevent damage to your battery. And it can recharge your battery back to full capacity in 5hours.

Price is 48,000

---

A major benefit of this system is that it is modular (meaning, its components are stand-alone), easily mobile and very easy to connect as you can see in the 3rd picture, so you have opportunities to manipulate the system for learning purposes, easily upgrade in the future and you can even use it for other purposes.

For instance, i can easily detach the battery voltage indicator and use it to check the voltage of my car battery as part of troubleshooting if my car refuses to start on a morning. I also, occasionally, use the system to quickly start my car if my car battery is flat.

With an extra 16k, I can also offer you a customized bag with which you can easily carry the system from place to place.

I am in Lagos, and you can get the system within 24hours.

Reach me on: 091-6043-7395

Hi, a lithium charger that charges to max 14.6v is destroying the lithium battery fast.
It's not good to charge lithium that high, and that's what many don't know and they killing their battery like that and it won't last for years as expected. It's tubular and gel that can go that high.

For lithium, it's advised not to go higher than 14.2 (which is even till high). Best voltage charge setting is 13.9v or 14.0v.

True your lithium won't charge full, but you are sure your lithium will do 15 - 20 years with that. If your battery has editable bms, you can charge it so that 3.5v (which is 14.0v) be 100%.

This is an info many Nigerian lithium dealers and installers don't know.

AmakaRuby:
Tnx sir, what of the quantity of 2.5mm wire?

You don't need AC cables as such in solar installation.
But that's a very huge amount of AC cables in that quotation. Maybe you asked him to do some worrying large scale wiring in your house that you are not telling us. You need to give more info on what you are doing. If not, for normal solar installation no AC cables needed as such