HeavenlyBang: Why not use AC at night then? You're effectively just wasting energy that you could be using? If your battery is already filled by 10am right now, surely you could run your AC all night and still have your battery filled by 1/2 pm.
If I run AC, that thing that consumes 1kwh, by morning won't it finish my 14kwh battery? Except i run it for like 6 hours at night only.
But truth be said, during the day the panels are wasting coz after charging at 4kwh from solar, once its filled up at 10am, it reduces to 400w which is all I use during the day. Over 3kwh from solar that could handle AC is just wasting.
To consider again is, do you think it'll stress the 5kva felicity inverter?
Iinnov8: You could have a point, and it is also a reinforced learning for me. I believe that explains why recent laptops and phones are designed to charge to a maximum of 85%
But then, most people will not have their batteries getting charged to that max voltage everyday due to improperly sized panels and insufficient grid supply, so the likelihood of the outcome of the risk of max charging is very low.
Also, let us talk about the trade-off between under-charging to have the battery last for 20 years but getting less backup time, and max charging to get more backup time (probably 2 hours more) and have the battery last for 5 - 6years.
What are your thoughts?
Its not really undercharging if you understand lithium technology. Whether you charge at 3.45 or high as 3.65v, once you stop charging and add load to lithium, it'll quickly drop to a settled voltage of around 3.31-3.32v and start an almost straight line discharge. From 3.65v to that 3.3v will take like 10 minutes. From 3.45 to 3.3v will take like lesser 5 mins. So you are not gaining 2hours as you imagine.
The only difference is that in lower voltage, you are protecting your battery and in higher one you are stressing and killing your battery. At 3.45v you battery is like 90% full. So it's better you use lower voltage to charge and make your battery last for years than forcing it to 100% 3.65v or 14.6v or 29.2 or 58. 4v.
kristien4: Pylontech charges at 56 to 56.8, in your opinion, is that a good range. And secondly, dont you feel a brand as big as Pylontech would have considered all these technicalities before setting their battery bms?
Pylontech confirms what I said. 56 = 3.50v 56.8 = 3.55v
They clearly tell by this never to charge at 3.65v which is 58.4v.
Though they gave you that range, they'll work well and save the battery in long run, but the best option is 56v. You can even go low to 55.6v if you can set it yourself.
Its also good never to discharge below 48v or 3.0v per cell. You can oh, but as I said, it's not adviced for health of battery.
Bro, I really love that you can remotely see your setup and consumption online. I've been watching your dashboard since yesterday like I de watch big brother Nigeria.
I'm curious to know... What's the lithium battery size you are using now? What's the total amount of solar panels you are using and brand? I'm surprised that at early morning with cloudy weather you already getting 3.6kwh from panels. What is giving out this info we see on your dashboard? The inverter? Or something else you added to your installation? What brand? Connected to Internet?
Sorry, too much questions. Pls help me answer the ones you can. Thanks bro
dustmalik: Starlink has been horrible today. The service had been good throughout the week, and I was starting to think that it had finally improved, given the recent poor performance.
However, it's been absolutely horrifying today. I hope this is not as a result of NCC not allowing them to implement the new subscription pricing, because I would rather they are allowed to, so that customers can have better service quality.
Lagos and Abuja problem. Port Harcourt joined in the problem.
For the rest of us, speed is OK. I get 200mbps here and I'm using roaming. In the past when I used residential, I used to get to 390mbps
After rejoicing don't forget the line they said their service to Nigeria could be a risk. If the Nigerian regulatory authority don't let them flourish as a business, they could close Nigeria entirely.
That's bad news for me coz I live in a forest in Nigeria where no mobile network and only starlink gives me Internet.
Abeg oh, they should come to a compromise that will make all parties happy. I can't afford starlink to leave Nigeria.
dollarnaira: Well, it is a about our choices. All I know is that Samsung 26J lithium ion sheet discouraged 12.6v full charge to extend battery life. This was applied to my LifePO4 as a caution. By July next year, it will b 4yrs. It will degrade to 80% its capacity after 10 to 12years at least. So the journey of degraded lithium in still in the future where the remaining 80% will now begin another fresh journey. What a chemistry?
Every lithium company discourages charging at 14.6v. Instead of Dam5reey1 to learn from this community he is insisting in his wrong opinion.
I bought cworth 20kwh lithium battery the other day, and it clearly said to set charging voltage to 55.6v which corresponds to 13.9v. The Aurora lithium I'm selling said same. Sako, Anker, even Japanese Samsung lithium outside the country insist on same. Lithium doesn't like being charged to 100%.
When you buy a new Samsung phone now, it tells you, you can charge your phone to 100% oh but we don't advice it. Every phone and laptop has a charging option to charge only to 80-85% so that your phone lasts for long. My S21 is going to 4 years now, and I always charge only to 80%. My phone still stays a whole day like new, compared to my older phones I always charged to 100% and after 2 years battery is a mess. Phones and pc lithium ion. Lithium ion and lithium phosphate should never be charged to 3.65V.
Two jinko 555w panels - 250k Find a small 12v hybrid inverter to buy from brands like Sako, Welion, CWorth - 250k Powmr 100aH battery -290k Accessories and installation - 150k
Put the inverter in power saving mode so it doesn't invert if it doesn't detect a load, then buy a timer for the freezers.
You can run on solar from 8 am - 5 pm, which is 9 hours.
Set the timer to come on at midnight and go off by 3 am.
My ~200L chest freezer draws just 110w. Even a 300L freezer shouldn't take more than 150W. Two of them 300w. Three hours of use should have the battery down to about 25% of charge.
Twelve hours of runtime daily, and your freezers remains frozen for 24 hours.
Nice detailing Bro. But why do you need to put on the freezer at night again? My freezer runs from 8am to 5pm. At 8am next day, freezer and contents are still frozen.
What will be like cycle if i charge to 3.65V vs 3.5V Show me real life batteries in use.. not Chatgpt which realies on what people are saying.
I just told you it's a SCIENTIFIC CONSENSUS in the area of lifepo4. Use your Google and search on life experiences of long time users of lifepo4 charging at high voltage like 14.6v. Don't take my silly words. Go do your research and maybe come back to tell me thank you for opening your mind.
You are free to keep charging at 14.6v or even 15v if you want. Shey you need full battery. You'll get it.
dollarnaira: Many Nigerians? No ooo Most us are are fully aware here too. LifePO4 is regarded full from 13.7v sef. I do 13.9v though.
Hmmm. I bet you that 90% of lithium users in Nigeria have their inverter or solar charger set to default settings of 14.6v or higher.
I've checked many lithium application systems and in all I've never seen one set correctly. I always help them by resetting it to 13.9v charge and float (we force the float though lithium don't need float, because if you don't, after your battery is charged during the day, your appliances begin to run from your battery and not from the panels).
Bro, many are damaging their lithium without knowing especially as many installers don't even know, like the guy above arguing on why the manufacturer made the charger with 14.6v, asking if I know more than the company. Lol
Dam5reey1: Where is your evidence? show us real life LFP battery failed because it was charged to 3.65V.
The Manufacturer tested them for 1C 2.5V to 3.65V, so where your evidence it wont last long?
Its Like saying those making 14.6V chargers don't know what they are doing, or the want to purposely degrade your batteries.
I follow lifepo4 contents a lot. I'm member to some lifepo4 online communities in the USA. The general consensus for top users and engineers in this area is that lifepo4 be changed at max 13.9-14.0v. Some even go lower. Some go higher. But I only shared the consensus.
I asked Chatgpt now, and here's the answer they gave.
Charging a LiFePO4 battery to 14.6V can be problematic because it places the battery near its maximum safe voltage, which can stress the cells and shorten the battery's lifespan. Here are some reasons for avoiding 14.6V as a charging limit:
1. Increased Stress on Cells: Charging to the upper voltage limit can push the cells close to overcharge, increasing stress and leading to premature aging.
2. Reduced Cycle Life: LiFePO4 batteries have a longer lifespan when not charged to the maximum voltage. Lowering the float charge (e.g., to 14.0V as you've set) can help maintain the battery's cycle life, potentially reaching or exceeding the 4000 cycles.
3. Minimal Capacity Gain: Charging from 14.0V to 14.6V typically only adds a few percent to the overall capacity. The slight gain in capacity does not compensate for the loss in lifespan caused by regular charging to the higher voltage.
4. Heat Generation: Charging at higher voltages can cause the battery to heat up slightly, which also contributes to wear and tear over time.
Keeping the voltage lower (like 14.0V) balances capacity with longevity, making it a good choice for extending your battery's useful life
It is a good idea, as a newbie, to start small and learn on the go, before upgrading and going big. Most of us started small as well, mostly for budget reasons though...
For your budget, i can offer you the following:
1. Powmr 12.8v 100ah (1280wh/1/29kwh) Lithium (LiFePO4) battery for 290,000 each. Battery will come with a free voltage indicator as shown in the picture below
You can watch the load capacity test video of the battery done by a very technical Nairalander and contributor to this thread:
You can also visit our dedicated thread to see 2 other videos he did on the battery, and also check out a few reviews from current users of the battery: https://www.nairaland.com/8194434/powmr-12.8v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4#131666850 2. EASun 1600w (800w) Pure Sinewave offgrid inverter for 69,000, capable of powering your house through the mains input and carrying significant normal everyday home appliances
You can check out this hobbyist and crude video i did showing the appliances the inverter can carry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KAuD7Bh9uk?si=CqzIQxmY5bmpRlGm 3. Dedicated 20A Lithium (LiFePO4) battery charger. It is a smart charger that can charge your battery to the maximum recommended charge voltage of 14.6v, and stop charging to prevent damage to your battery. And it can recharge your battery back to full capacity in 5hours.
Price is 48,000 A major benefit of this system is that it is modular (meaning, its components are stand-alone), easily mobile and very easy to connect as you can see in the 3rd picture, so you have opportunities to manipulate the system for learning purposes, easily upgrade in the future and you can even use it for other purposes.
For instance, i can easily detach the battery voltage indicator and use it to check the voltage of my car battery as part of troubleshooting if my car refuses to start on a morning. I also, occasionally, use the system to quickly start my car if my car battery is flat.
With an extra 16k, I can also offer you a customized bag with which you can easily carry the system from place to place.
I am in Lagos, and you can get the system within 24hours.
Reach me on: 091-6043-7395
Hi, a lithium charger that charges to max 14.6v is destroying the lithium battery fast. It's not good to charge lithium that high, and that's what many don't know and they killing their battery like that and it won't last for years as expected. It's tubular and gel that can go that high.
For lithium, it's advised not to go higher than 14.2 (which is even till high). Best voltage charge setting is 13.9v or 14.0v.
True your lithium won't charge full, but you are sure your lithium will do 15 - 20 years with that. If your battery has editable bms, you can charge it so that 3.5v (which is 14.0v) be 100%.
This is an info many Nigerian lithium dealers and installers don't know.
AmakaRuby: Tnx sir, what of the quantity of 2.5mm wire?
You don't need AC cables as such in solar installation. But that's a very huge amount of AC cables in that quotation. Maybe you asked him to do some worrying large scale wiring in your house that you are not telling us. You need to give more info on what you are doing. If not, for normal solar installation no AC cables needed as such
kristien4: When you used the word something "fishy". That was an attack on my person. I have no business defending growatt or jinko. You can say its impossible for panels to produce 100% of their watts, and you can say charge controllers show higher readings, that will be your opinion. Saying my marketing is fishy, is accusing me already. I have a dealership with Fouani, i can sell panels/inverter/acs/tvs for lower than the price you see on the fouani website. But you dont see me posting ads here everyday.i hardly post. Few days b4 i made that post, i noticed the sun was super bright, the brightest i have seen since i installed my growatt 5000spf. I'm like let me check, i noticed the harvest was super high, i snapped and posted with a little ad stating i was in benin, because i no get strength for ship here and there. All of a sudden someone says I'm being fishy. Anyways no vess, your comment annoyed me.
I didn't mean you as a person is fishy, instead I meant the info could be wrong. Maybe I used a wrong word that triggered you. I'm sorry for that.
Thanks for a better explanation now that stayed on the topic. Respect bro!
AmakaRuby: Good day, installer requested 10mm DC cable wire. Some one I have been chatting with here before now recommend 4mm or 6mm but this installer says I should get 10mm. Help me check this pls, I have 4.2kva welion Inverter & 3 of 475w panel Distance of 20m for panels to DB 1 DC cable 10mm ×10yards=#7,800×10=#78,000 2 AC cable (2) coil =2.5mm cole-mester wire=#49,000×2=#98,000 3 Bolt and nuts 🔩 =10 pieces =#3000 4 Change over. 100A =#7,000 5 Trunking pipe and concrete nail =#3000 6 Cable locks=#1,500 7 Breaker =#13,000 8 Surge protector DC =#22,000 9 Breakers box /9 ways.=4,500
Its true your setup can go with 6mm. But a good installer will advice you to use a bigger size cable just to dissipate heat better and give you chance to increase panels tomorrow if the case arises. Even if you can afford 16mm, use it. If tomorrow God bless you with money and you want to change system to carry 10-12 panels, you won't talk of buying cable again coz the 16mm will do it. 6mm or 10mm won't do it.
kristien4: Wetin u smoke? Marketing, like i work for growatt or jinko, these are big brands, you dont need to lie or make false claims to sell a jinko or growatt. Thats how u make unguarded statements which mirrors the kind of person you are. You think everyone is a liar like you. The only fishy thing here is your brain.
You see! I countered your topic without touching your person, you replied, went off the topic and came straight to attack my person, and to top it all, you claim being the better person after just doing this.
Typical Nigerian
You'll argue with a Nigeria that "I think Ronaldo is better than Messi because of his effectiveness at goal". Instead of the Nigerian to come up with a counter argument on why Messi is better, staying on the topic, he'll rather say "your brain is rotten, that's why you think so. You de mad, and your family is hungry, that's why you think Ronaldo is better".
I gave a scientific opinion, you should come up with counter scientific evidence against me like some did. Instead you prefer to insult my person.
kristien4: 8pieces of jinko 580w= 4640 doing over 100%. Dont play. If youre in benin, and you need original brand new jinko panels at very good prices. Hit me up!
Scientifically, it is IMPOSSIBLE for solar to produce 100% of rated power due to power loss via heat, distance and other factors. Not ever possible. That you are claiming over 100% power generation shows something is wrong or fishy in your marketing. Either that or your (never seen) solar charger is giving false figures (many weak brands make their device to do that).
Seun: Guys, have you recently switched to Starlink Residential in the Lagos area? How did you do it?
Did you sign up from the official site? If so, how long did you have to wait?
Did you use an address just outside the restricted area?
Or: are you on the roaming plan of ₦167,000/month?
You can't switch to residential in Lagos. You've to pay that 160k. Just pray that by next month many on residential may leave starlink due to the price increase, then you may find space to sneak into residential
tasalanoni: That's a load of twaddle. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed but can only be converted from one form to another. A power generator is a machine that converts other forms of energy to electrical energy. The guyman hasn't told us the form of energy he's generating electricity from.
Must be same battery and inverter system he packed into that box. When he sells to you, he may then tell you that you need to be charging the battery when there's light
HeavenlyBang: The most power I've gotten from a 1.74kw array so far. 93%. Considering temperature, perfectly in line with what Jinko rates the panels at.
Point is, you can't go wrong with Jinko panels.
Using original jinko panels too 8x555w (4440w) and even at 11am I'm getting 4.1kw. Those panels are just so good. I've one that shattered during transportation and still producing good energy. I just used it to power one fridge, shikena.
Whereas my cworth 350w panels only give me like 160w each. Very poor.