₦airaland Forum

chris81964:
Thank you GeorgeD1. He has 8 Deka 220 AH batteries. They are the same batteries across the board.

I think Oga GeorgeD1 was referring to the first picture you showed which I presumed was his initial setup before your company came in to tidy things.

Epsolar 3215 BN MPPT controller for sale:

Max Voltage 150v
Rated amps 30A
Cast Aluminium heat dissipation
Remote battery temperature sensor for checking battery voltage for temperature adjusted charging (included)
Remote Meter MT50 (Included)
Supports 12v and 24v
Capable of adjustment charge profile

Sold

tundebabzy:
Hello house. Please recommend a good energy meter that I can use to estimate my power usage and build an appropriately sized system

You can get a killawatt meter which would allow u check the wattage of each of your appliances it's not that expensive and very easy to use. I think Mr Frank once use to sell them. You can also find them on Konga

DUNKA:
Abu wow really surprised at this. The all powerful Trojans which have become industry standard are known to take various forms of Abuse and still work fine.

If there is no known factory defect for the failure of your Trojans I think you should look at the inverter you are using. When I was using my Axpert inverter my batteries were not being fully charged and I could not retain charge cycle use of my 8 mercury tubular flooded batteries but since I moved to the Outback inverter I am yet to get a Low Battery cut off trigger.

Unfortunately most of the inverters that are not pro, out there do not go through a true 3/4 stage charging process thereby killing off batteries in a short while.

To change out batteries are very expensive so try using a desulphator to see if they can be revived before you change them out Chris81964 has done some videos on his company site of reviving dead batteries using a desulphator so you can check this out to see if it helps.

You can also take a look at this article below http://usbattery.com/us-battery-products-continue-working-after-nearly-ten-years/ if you decide to change out your batteries. I believe you have commented befit on us batteries before.

All the best

Very true about axpert inverters. Anyone using them as sole source for charging FLA is asking for trouble. They can't do more than 28.8v charge making them ideal for AGM batteries .. they can't even equalise your FLA. For me I use sukam and tracer. Sukam does bulk charge when power is available Tracer MPPT complete the absorption state of charge at 29.2v and equalisation once a month at 32v

43 inch led TV, dstv, 2 fan and 4 lighting point all for less than 107w. Battery being discharged at less than C40 (c55 to be exact) less stress on the battery mean they last longer.

Interestingly the 32 inch LCD TV in my room uses 84w (about 80% of above load) and ceiling fan uses about 75w ... Efficiency should never be understated.

DMerciful:
Seems flooded battery longevity is overrated . for goodness sake how can you off your inverter when there is no light ? to stay in darkness?In truth we need focus in this area as the cost of going green comparatively threatened by battery replacement. Lithium battery may be the way forward!

Everything has plus and minus. FLA are quite rugged but they require attention and you must be on top of your maintenance with distilled water and equalisation... Also have an hydrometer handy to periodically check that all your cells are equally getting same charge and same GS level (AGM batteries don't require the type of baby sitting)

Further more and most importantly is how you charge and discharge your FLA (or any battery) most people focus on battery depth of discharge but little is done to ensure that the battery is being discharged within recommended limits. Most FLA batteries are rated C20 @25c which means the AH value of the battery is dependent on discharging them within C20 under a relative 25C temperature.

This is where sizing your system is very important. In my case my battery is 220 at C20 meaning my discharge rate should be no more than 11AH (@24v)
Hence at no point in time do I allow my battery to be discharged above 8AH.. in fact most of my discharge stand at 4 to 5ah (about 100w to 125w) only time my system shoots to 8ah discharge rate is when I have freezer on even then battery rarely gets discharged up to the 200w treshold.

If you have a C20 battery and you discharge at a rate higher than C20 not only does the rated AH not apply you are also wearing out the battery faster.

This is where renewable energy users have to pay serious attention to how u optimize and conserve load. It's not enough to just get energy efficient light bulbs. Everything should be efficient. It's cheaper to conserve than to generate and store. The 50k I spent on getting rechargeable fan which use 25% of what my ceiling fan uses allows me to run my batteries at C40 prolonging its life while at the same time enjoying reasonable comfort. My 43 inch led TV + dstv HD and 1200w 5.1 sound Surround system all use less than 60w. No light bulb in my house is above 8w. Security light are provided by solar led outdoor light with motion sensors so about 600w saved

Lastly I have a small battery monitor with a shunt which allows me keep an handle on battery voltage, rate and depth of battery discharge. Since I started measurement my dod has never been more than 45% in fact day on day dod is 35% - 25% of battery capacity and believe me my system often runs 24 hours especially when grid has issues (during the day I sometimes generate enough to use and charge my battery). My battery rest voltage barely drops below 24.8v and because my daily consumption is little it's easier to generate and give back to the system hence my battery gets to float every single day. And no my array are very small just 660w.. but thanks to Abuja sun with optimization in mount system making my panels easy to clean and air cooled I generate an average 2300wh of energy everyday to replace my daily consumption of about 1800wh

Having a handle on my load and consumption completely removed the need for LVD. But as my family gets bigger and less trained and oriented folks show up to pay homepage to our latest member I might need one. My inverter allows me to set LVD to 23v but that's a no-no.
I just ordered victron energy battery monitor. The system is just like the Trimetric but with additional features and cheaper. It keeps a 30 day detailed statistics log charge and of usage (hope to review it here)
Unlike the monitor I use which monitors only rate and depth of discharge, this system monitors both.. I get to see what goes in and comes out of the battery

it also has a relay out which allows me to have a solid state relay to disconnect my inverter when battery ah drops to say 60% state of charge.

The new battery monitor, a new 60/150v "Fangtron" MPPT controller and an additional 250w panel are some of the investment I hope to add to my system first quarter this year. I will definitely share here how it all went.

Ondo state government official website is hacked and has been defaced http://www.ondostate.gov.ng/

Happy new year house people. Finally decided to put out for sale this mppt charge controller I got as a gift last October. It's a 30A Epsolar + MT-5 remote meter

Price 25,000
Sold

Marvelz:
Gurus in the house. Please does anyone have experience with cinemax mppt solar charge controller 60Amps/150V. I want to know how reliable and efficient it is. D installer supplied it recently but we are yet to do the installation. I requested for d EPSOLAR etracer 60A CC. I was surprised why he got this instead. Would really appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Kindly return and go with what you originally requested. Epsolar has good reviews and excellent support there once sent me a new controller after I had some issues with the one I had even though the controller was purchased from here in Nigeria. A new one was sent via DHL from China. Very few companies have such level of support. Insist on the etracer.

dicksonadams:
I use a TV for 5hrs, gotv , charge my phone, plug laptop for 5hrs and use fan. When I am home. On few occasions I use the inverter till it start making alarm noise, then I immediately switch it off 11.8v

Size and type of TV matters. Differences between Tv type can vary e.g my 43Inch LED Tv uses about 35w while the 32 inch LCD uses about 84w. Gotv should be about 15w average phone charger about 10w laptop is generally 65w (when battery is being charged ) and about 18w when battery is full. Fan also need to be specified. Difference between rechargeable dc fans and electric motor fan, ceiling fans can be huge. My ceiling fan uses 35w at least setting 50w at medium settings and 75w at max settings .. rechargeable standing fan uses about 4w at lowest to 25w at highest. You need to list the exact product type of fan etc to help give an estimation of your load and make recommendations.

Your battery at 11.8v is less than 30% which is not good for a lead acid battery. Constant over discharge will lead to sending the battery to early recycling plant.

dicksonadams:
I use an mppt fangpusun 30amp charger controller, the battery is 1 year old, use it when I am back from work and weekend.

Before I get 19amp from it but now it barely get to 13amp if lucky.

I clean the panel last Saturday

u have said little about your consumption load. Regards your panels connecting all in series is not ideal. Connecting different size panel is never a good thing. The whole total out put of the string is determined by the lowest panel. Might be better to connect the 2 80w panel in parallel and connect them in series to the 130. Your connection should be 80 + 80 = 160 + 130 + 130. Secondly might be best to upgrade your cabling to 10m between controller and battery the hot cables is not a good sign. More importantly you need to describe your load and daily usage. Do you for example use the battery till it's dead..

DMerciful:
Renewable teammates

please i need your recommendation on a good brand of rechargeable fan to use of inverter. The ones i have be buying fails under 6 months probably they are fake.

One love.

I use qasa rechargeable. Other than battery failure the fan has been working fine close to a year now. Uses between 4w at lowest speed to 26w at highest speed ( which is on per with electric motor fan) the medium speed at 15w is ideal for normal use.

DMerciful:
Make sense. To solve the issues you highlighted, we could add an additional well sized breaker on the PV side on top of the double breaker. The double breaker protects the CC-battery circuit and also disconnect the PV side anytime d battery side trips while d low current breaker added for d PV side protects the PV-CC circuit...shikena

completely agree. That is the right setup. Myself should get on with doing that.

efuro:
for now I use AC breaker too. I gather from an electrician dat AC breaker will burn too quickly but a least I have a breaker btw my PV and cc. no breaker btw battery and 60A fangpusun mmpt

abeg if u love your life and property change that setup asap .. you are seriously playing with fire .. your setup is probably over a 1000 dollars don't lose it because of a 10 dollar protection unit. Contact guys here and pick a solid well sized DC breaker.

Here is why u should worry:
AC and DC are two different beast. As oga Frankie stated DC gives constant current that's why it is symbolised by a line and a dotted line. AC on the other hand alternate it's current from say 2 amps to 0amps to 2amps on and on and on it does this so fast like sometimes 50 times in a second (in that case 50z) .. now when designing breakers for AC application. The anti short circuit trip is designed to break the circuit when it drops to zero. Because of the alternating nature of AC.. when the current is dropping to zero any break in connection stops it in its track.. hence u can set the trip off curve is low.

For DC not the case DC current is constant. 20A DC is always 20A dc no BS no mago mago.. no awilo movement. DC breakers are designed to catch DC surge and the anti short circuit gap is much wider to prevent the current from jumping across re-bridging the contact. DC surge arc are not stopped by a break in the circuit (unlike AC breakers) hence DC circuit breakers are designed differently. They are designed to ensure a DC current surge is effectively stopped in its track.

Can an AC breakers trip when used in DC application yes. Can it be guaranteed to trip effectively especially when high current is involved. No it can trip but then the DC current can jump over the bridge and bridge the circuit.. you definitely don't want that.

Am sure my physics colleagues can explain this better.

DMerciful:
Learnt something now...double pole breakers ensures the PV and battery are disconnected simultaneously thus avoiding d risk I mentioned earlier which is battery side tripping and PV side still energised. This makes more sense.

Double pole breaker is also not a perfect solution ooo.. it comes with its own issues

1 Sizing: One of the most important consideration for your breaker system is getting the right size for the job. Too small and u get lots of false positives (if u are lucky) or it just don't work. Too large and you have a weak protective system.

Now note that on the PV output to cc voltage is usually higher than current.. your breaker should reflect that. On the cc to battery side amp is higher than voltage breaker should also reflect that.

If you use a double pole breaker as a one breaker rule them all situation then you have to still prioritise which device is worth saving the most. And 9 out of ten times u find out it is the battery cc side that's most important. The breaker in a double pole scenario should be sized with a bias towards protecting the battery from shorting
(Which in a way defeats the purpose of having double pole system anyways
NB: If your panel voltage and amp is close to that of your cc output then this won't be an issue.

2 second issue with a double pole system is the connection sequence. Recommended connection sequence for a PV battery CC situation is .. battery to PV first.. wait for CC to boot and load ( usually tiny few seconds) then connect PV to cc. Disconnect sequence is the reverse. Disconnect PV then disconnect battery. A double pole system makes nonsense of this arrangement as it turns on the PV into and the Batt input at exactly the same time. Your CC would be taking in close to 90v or more before it is even ready to handle them. Might be wise to have a separate switch in the PV side of things to act like some kind of delay on the PV side.

Just something to consider before adopting a one breaker to bind them together and rule them all scenario.

DMerciful:
Why will the CC short circuit?'its an advance technology remember! Its has inbuilt protection

A properly designed system has layers of protection. Also remember protection priority is to first protect lives and property before protection equipment. Have *properly* sized breakers between each component of your off grid is highly recommended. CC are electrical component and even though they come built in with safety breakers.. It often recommended to have another breaker between pv and cc and cc and pv. If the battery were to get short circuited.. breaker protect the cc from battery. If cc short circuits (And it happens - google it) the breaker will protect the battery.

If the breaker between the cc and the battery trips (usually for a good reason) the worst thing is your cc is fried.

The alternative of not having a breaker between your cc and battery is, if cc short circuits.. then the recursion is much worse. Its like have the positives and negative of your battery in contact. Bad things happen.

DMerciful:
Enlighten me of the risk cos I don't see what can cause a risk from CC to battery.

The CC short circuiting?

Obimind1:
Same with me, the max my inverter can charge my battery is at 28.5v. Using ur charge controller as ur primary battery charger what the max voltage u see?
I'm asking cus mine inverter is by brand Mpower 1.4va.

My controller gets as high as 31v. it can do 17vx 2 (That is the max setting) but allows you to adjust the voltage according to your requirements and needs.

DMerciful:
I use Mopower inverter(same as sulkam more or less) 1.5kva. Been using it for 1.5yrs now n sometimes t power my freezer or fridge with it n even my washing machine. My batteries are still going strong. So if it can run these loads without issues then what else? Btw its sine wave n its less than 50k now. I actually bought it 40k

very similar to my setup. In my case I use the sulkam falcon plus inverter rated 1200W (1.5kva @ 0.8 power factor).. The battery monitor I have between the inverter and battery reads a no idle load of 25w. So far so good the inverter is doing fine. My defining load is a 175 Liter LG freezer with start up surge at close to 800w and running power at 130w. What I like about this inverter is that it comes with a battery temperature sensor which allows it to do temperature controlled charging...

The downside is that the max voltage it can charge my battery is at 28.8v which is pretty low for a floaded acid battery.. however since I just use it as a bulk charger and still have my charge controller has my primary battery charger.

battleaxe:
@bodejohn, dmerciful, pranil, all etc.

Is it possible to get 130W from a 130W solar panel?

Thanks.

theoretically yes it can.. under standard condition where sun is at the right glare and right angle to the panel and the temperature is just under 25C. When with all this in place (very rare) u still need to have the right wiring .. even with all these there is inverter inefficiency to consider. The rule is to assume 77% of your panel capacity has the capacity u get in real life use after u remove things like heat coefficient, inverter efficiency and position of the sun. I usually just times panel size by 0.77 to get a useable figure I can use when sizing my system.

tundebabzy:
Hi all, I have a question.

Electricity from solar seems pretty inefficient to me. Panels supply DC, inverter converts To AC and excess to DC. When panels are not supplying power, inverter converts DC back to AC.

If I want to use only DC gadgets in my house or a hybrid where all my lights are to be fed by DC with dedicated points for any battery charging also fed by DC, pumping machine fed by DC then the rest of the house fed by AC, what options do I have?

Here are the issues with eliminating the need for inverter by switching to DC appliances.

1 the price would make it not a cost effective solution. The price of a DC freezer is 5x that of an average AC freezer. Same goes for DC TV, DC pumping machine and even DC light bulbs. The astronomical cost of this appliances would be better served if used in procurement of panels and batteries

2 DC appliances are not common place. They are far from mainstream and as a result getting support and spares would be a hassle. Even the most remote village has someone who can repair an AC powered freezer. Same with TV.. The biggest headache with having an home composed of DC appliances is lack of support and spares.. and when u find such trust me they would be very expensive

Finally DC is low voltage electricity and one of the important laws of ohms is that low voltage meet high resistance. Unless you are ready to spend crazy sums on wiring.. using 16 to 22mm wires round your home (which is just impractical) to ensure you 12v reaches it intended load without dropping out to resistance. Most DC appliances are 12v and as such your battery set up would be limited to 12v (with inherent inefficiencies) if you use a higher voltage battery bank like 48v then I would need a DC to DC converter to down convert to 12v (which just defeats the purpose of getting rid of an inverter)

The world standardised on AC because of the high voltage and low current which make it easier to travel over long distances and saves cost of wiring. It is better to go for energy efficient AC device and spend extra on power generation. DC home is just impractical unless basic solar setup for lighting and mobile phone charging.

.

Dishtech:
Thank you for your respond! Only inverter and battery is available so plan is to buy solar panel and charge controller and its 48v system. Also plan is to run freezer=130watt, fridge=90watt, television=180watt, decoder= about 15watt, total of about 415watts to while charging in the day.

with what you have stated, lets do some maths.

4 200AH 12V battery in a connected in series = 48v 200AH.
Assuming the batteries are rated at C20, hence your recommended discharge rate should be no more than 480wh anything more than this and you have effectively reduced capacity your battery from 200AH.

Your 415 watt discharge rate is just ideal.

Regarding the numbers of panels you need. You need a minimum of 4 a maximum of .... well that depends. all things equal. amount of panels depends on
1. Type of batteries you have. If you are using a flooded acid battery, then your panel number should be limited to your batteries rate of charge. an average FLA should not be charged more than 13% of C20. in your case that is 26A.. anything more than that would be wasted has heat, cause the battery to boil and shorten it's life span eventually. might even cause a termal runaway if the charge current is way more than the battery can handle. Hence if you are using FLA battery you might want to stick to 6 panels arranged in a series parallel string of 3x3.

Another alternative is to get charge controllers which allows you to set bulk charge currents, then you can set the bulk charge current to about 26A. In that case you can get as much as 9 panels and arranged them in a series parallel of 3x3x3.

Better still get an AGM battery, those are capable of fast charging and can take close to 30% of C20. when if your batteries are AGM then you can get 9 200w batteries and arranged by 3,3,3 = 1800 watt pick. and when you remove the usual panel and controller efficiency 1,386w (1800 / 0.77)

Ultimately, the number of panels is decided by your usage. A well designed offgrid setup will ensure that the battery is properly circled every day, hence what you use today is replaced tomorrow. hence you get enough panels that will ensure that you can adequately replenish what is taken from the battery bank no matter the weather.

This is why energy conservation is very key in renewable energy, the greater part of going solar is looking for smart ways to reduce your energy footprint. The use you use the less you need to generate.

chris81964:
The Schneider Xw+ or the SMA 8.0 SI will do the job. You can parallel or stack 2 to get your 20 Kva. You can do the same with two Quattro (Victron) so many choices.
I can sell you the Schneider if you decide to go for that choice. We don't have the SMA in stock but we can source it for you.
They are all 48V inverters. And I will advice that you use 2V batteries for the job.

will hit you backstage thanks

iLoveTheSun:
Hello,

I have two General Electric 15 kVA ProSite UPS available - without batteries, but with a rack.
It was in use only for a couple of weeks.

It is possible to put them in parallel, so it is an N+1 fail-safe configuration.
Manual/documentation available.

Interested?
Send me an email.

sunny regards,

will do, thanks

Brothers. I need help/suppliers/suggestions for a 15KVA / 20 KVA inverter system. It is required for a High Performance computer setup that requires pick load of 9900Watt of power. This is meant for highly rated computational science research. High end (US, Europe ) product will be considered.

GeorgeD1:
abunafiu,
donmajor2,
dunka,
et al,

thanks guys. indeed its been quite a while. its really exciting seeing all the new developments happening
on the thread and so many new members getting hooked on solar.

ever since the price of fuel sky-rocketed, its been my desire to revisit that calculation I did in 2010 and I
I was quite surprised at the outcome. what a difference six years makes.

on a side note, my system is still firing on all cylinders with no issues at all - discounting weather.
when I look back at all the money spent and this calculation, I realize that in six years, my system has
more than paid for itself in terms of cost-savings alone. right now, what I'm using is free energy!

welcome back brother. Good to see someone also doing the economics of going solar. For me it's been a joyful journey.. I now buy fish and chicken in cartoon.. I don add weight now since I went solar.. Na so so chicken person dey chop.. on most afternoons NEPA is on standby who no like awoof electricity. PPP is the way

battleaxe:
2. Is there a preference for flooded lead acid over say gel or AGM batteries, in a solar, partial off-grid system?




Thanks for your kind responses.

Concerning the batteries. It all depends on use case, level of expertise of the user, and lots of other consideration. It all depends on the user.

Flooded batteries are generally more rugged, the last longer and are tougher. A good flooded battery like Trojan or USB can last over 5 years if well maintained.. the down side.. it requires periodic maintenance which has to be adhered to otherwise they would go bad before their time.
They require constant monitoring, ( u would need a hydrometer) to check the state of the cells, and electrolyte level. When the electrolyte drops beyond a certain level. They need be replaced and topped with distilled water.

You are also to perform periodic equalisation charge or they loss their ability to keep charge.

FLA are also sensitive how you charge them. Generally they are not suppose to be charged more than 13% of their capacity. So a 100AH battery should be charged at no more than 13A otherwise it will die before it's time. Add the fact that fla emits dangerous gases which can cause explosion so ventilation is important.

AGM is also good. They are capable of fast charging.. can take up to 20-30% of battery capacity.. and are capable of high discharge. They are sealed and generally maintenance free. The down side is they have shorter life compared to FLA. Although now they are AGM batteries with cycles that rivals a FLA especially the type with tubular plates. Generally most AGM will give you 800 cycles at 50 depth of discharge (fla can easily do 1200 at 50 DOD) one other down side if AGM is it requires cool environment.. at least 25C so you also have to factor that into consideration.

GEL imho should be avoided unless they are to be used very light discharge usage. Gel are very sensitive to charges.. they can't be fast charged and don't like high discharge. For SMF batteries I generally would recommend AGM. Gel have better tolerance to relatively higher ambiance temperature than AGM.

earthrealm:
i think what happened was , ur house doesnt hv a lightening protector [that spike on the roof], thus when there a direct hit, the lightening didnt hv a direct path to ground thus it was jumping all over the house, and chanced on the inverters, the ones that didnt burn either have better electronics inside them, or thier casing is less metallic than the others.
in real life this scenario is played out if a human being is standing under a tree during a rainstorm, and the tree receives a direct strike, the lightening will try to discharge to ground through the tree trunk, but as its going down..it senses a better conductor...which is the human body, thus it will jump from the tree to the person, and fry him, all these happens in nano seconds.

1 may escape a direct hit if some of the following occur.
1. your house is a bungalow and there is a 1storey of higher structure very close to u.
2. your roofing is made of ceramic tiles, while ur neighbours is long span aluminuim [the lightening will choose ur neigbhours house - all things being equal ]
3. you hv ur lightening spike, and grounding connected properly...i repaet properly, its best you dont hv a spike than you have a spike system consturcted wrongly, it will attract the lightening..an the lightening will burn down ur roof if it doesnt see a good path to ground, this will happen if you use fae./wrong copper strip connection to spike

bros abeg your email. Mine is bigbrovar2 at Gmail .

DUNKA:
Goodday all just to give an update on my solar setup. Thread has been a bit too quiet.

8 Yingli Green Energy 250W PV Module(2000W)
4 Solar World 255w (1020w)
1 Outback Solar Charge Controller 80A
1 Outback Inverter Charger 3000 Watt 48VDC VFX 4028

8 Mercury flooded tubular Batteries 220Ah
1 10 Kva Prag servo stabilizer
1 BLS desulphator 48 v
1 battery kill isolator switch
1 trimetric 2030
1 Lightning Arrestor
1300 midnite solar A. C surge arrestor
1 300 midnite solar D. C surge arrestor
Various Solar Accessories

Total Price:

I am a complete novice in this how I was able to set this up was what I gleaned from here then gathered all the accessories over a period of about 2years.

To this end let me hail all that have contributed to this thread but most especially GeorgeD1 who invaluable early contributions really pushed me down this line. Though it seems he no longer active on the forum and to Chris81964 whose background advise has been invaluable.

I also give a shout out to all the suppliers of my solar items namely CoOgumo,Richmon,Gennextec, and the one and only Chief Marketer Kiekie I will say that I have never met anyone of them in person and we have transacted seamlessly as payment is made and items sent no long story. Anyone can deal without fear.

Though a novice let me give a little advise if it can help anyone. Start small as you will be discouraged if you try to buy everthing at once.

For the inverter please go for the high end products Magnum, Scheinder,outback,victron,SMA, as all the ogas in the house use them so that should tell you something.

Do not buy the cheap Chinese,Indian and Korean inverters. If constrained by funds go for Prag or Voltron.
For the charge controller also go high end if possible with Outback,magnum midnite solar, morningstar etc. Being the top brands.

For Batteries I prefer flooded due to its resilience and particularly for the ones I am using the electrolyte indicator is a God send as you can easily see when the cells need topping off (newbies take note) . Good value for money.

A word if caution if you are using flooded batteries u should note that the popular Axpert inverter is limited to 58.4 charge which will undercharge flooded batteries and will kill them. It also cannot equalize flooded batteries you will need a good quality CC to perform that for flooded batteries. I know because that was my 1st inverter before I now went for the Outback. Also note some branded inverters advertised I see here are Axperts so you have to know the right questions to ask. That been said it served its purpose for me and now will dispose it or keep it as my back up inverter for when there is any issue with the Outback.

I strongly recommend that you protect your system from lightening strikes by using surge protectors on both the A. C and D. C sides of your system. Thank me later

Please do not ask me any technical issue as I just got the items and paid for installation.

Also do not ask for price as with the fluctuating dollar rate prices are totally crazy now so whatever I tell you will not be correct as of today. If you do not believe me agree for an order with Kiekie and you do not transfer immediately by the time you come back after a week you go know say khaki no be leather.

Solar is the only way to go as in the long run it is cheaper than the unreliable grid which makes running g generators very expensive

As a whole get the correct information before you start. My last word of advise change all yr light bulbs to low wattage LED bulbs. You will thank me later.

Installer are still tidying up the install. Will post the internal set up later.

Twaile!!!! My dream setup right there. On the money on every levels. We sef go rich there

anochuks08:
Thanks boss. Duly noted. I really appreciate your input. I ve lot of work to do on my battery bank. if I have a bad battery (I actually have one in the bank) that drops to like 10.5 and other batteries cover for it that I don't even notice it, is it bad for the bank?

Bros. I just dey give back to the community ooo. I learned so much from niggas on here so givibg back is the least I can do.

anochuks08:
Thanks boss. Duly noted. I really appreciate your input. I ve lot of work to do on my battery bank. if I have a bad battery (I actually have one in the bank) that drops to like 10.5 and other batteries cover for it that I don't even notice it, is it bad for the bank?

Of cause it is effectively the same as mixing old batteries with new.. the bad battery becomes a load on the good one. Draging it down.. ( the good one starts to charge the bad one till they too become over discharged after a while.. they lose ability to fully charge)