Bigrovar's Posts
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KDE sadly has really been hit by the demise of Nokia and lack of corporate sponsorship. It should be recalled that Nokia owned Qt the toolkit framework which KDE is based as a result many KDE developers were sponsored by Nokia to work on Qt. Qt was all set to conquer the world and create a convergence UI that span from mobile, to desktop and KDE was all set to benefit. Then Elop happened, Nokia killed off Meego and by extension their involvement with Qt. Although Qt is still striving, development has slowed and as a result many KDE developers (especially the paid one) scaled back involvements. The community bravely stepped up to the plate, but community effort is not enough to push the KDE and standards kde set. Dont get me wrong, project is still awesome and KDE 5 is looking good. But many projects are lack active maintenance (can't remember the last time Amarok had a release) and the result is lots of bugs which sometimes take time to fix. I even heard the oxygen project now lack maintainers .Gnome on the other hand still has lots of corporate backing, especially from redhat and to some extent canonical. Gnome 3 has great polish although the usual annoying knack for hidden features and over simplification still plaques gnome. but a good hacker should be able to get round such silly limitations. I really enjoy gnome 3. Although it does come at a huge cost in ram. |
blackweaver:More of a gnome 3 person this days. yet I still will not recommend it for the new user. from my experience with new users. Most of our staff and student researchers (over 200 of them) seem comfortable with Ubuntu unity. I rarely have to do any introduction.. they just get right on with it. which I think speaks to how good unity usability is especially with new non traditional Linux users. |
mank1234:Thanks bro for the input, |
life707:Thanks for posting this. My electrician also said the same. So what you are saying is that the grounding of the panel mount covers the panel and the inverter covers the battery and by extension the charge controller. Hmmmm just the basic diagram of my controller stated that the controller is to be grounded via the battery ( from the negative terminal). I guess more reading need be done on this regard. |
Below is the ground for my panel. Don't know if it is adequate will appreciate input. Also note that some charge controller like epsolar A tracer series have positive grounding hence it is the positive of your battery and your panel in face the positive of your DC component that needs be ground in such a case. Edit: The epsolar diagram indicate the need for grounding of the controller via the battery.. however has stated below this message. controller and battery grounding is not essential especially if the panels and inverter are well grounded.
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Monlo:Well there is not much to add about grounding. The idea is to create a path of least resistance for rouge electricity to pass through to ground. Electricity is always looking for ground and always trying to find the easiest part to the ground (ground as in earth) the easiest part is the most conductive. e.g, when you touch a naked electrical wire without proper insulation, lets say you legs happens to be on water and you are not wearing a shoe, once your touch the wire, the electricity would see you has the easiest path to ground (considering the human body is highly conductive being made up of water and all) and pass through your body to ground. Grounding your system creates a path for this wrong electricity which could come from lightening or electrical leakage or short circuiting of any of your device.. The ground creates an lazy path for them to ground so they avoid passing through your expensive devices and damaging them on their search for ground, The first step for grounding is getting a grounding rod. Usually a copper coated rod about 6 feet long. You dig a hole about 2 feet deep, always advisable to add industrial salt and charcoal to help with the conductivity of your grounding rod (especially when it rains). The rod is hammered into the hole where the salt and charcoal has been added. next it is assumed that the house wiring already bound all the earth wiring from all your socket (The top part of the 3 pin plug used generally in NIgeria) all that earth wiring is bound together in your distribution box and are merged into a single copper wire which should then be connected to the rod you just hammered to the ground (outside your house) Most houses have earth wires and ground rode (although most ground systems in many houses are not active due to the type of ground rode used) anyway.. once this is done.. all appliances in the house that connects to electrical socket is automatically grounded. next step is how do you ground your solar setup. In my case (and am no guru on this subject) My panels are ground mounted not roof mounted. what I did was to connect a 16mm copper wire to one of the legs of the ground mount and have that connected to the ground rod. These ensures my panel mount frame is grounded. (note it is advisable that all metal or conductive materials used in your setup including battery box (if made of metal) should be bonded together and have a wire attached to the ground rod. grounding your panels,You just take a wire from the negative of your panel and connect to the ground rod, another cable from the negative of your battery should also connect to the ground rod. Edit: Turns out the battery and controller do not require grounding. The grounding of the inverter should suffice. However many documentations including that of many charge controller recommend ground the negative terminal of the battery to ground.[b][/b] some inverters have ground setup with proper labelling, that also should be added to the ground rod. in other to avoid a situation where you have wires running to the ground rod, all those connections should be bonded together using something like a combiner box and one cable should then connect to the ground rod. That is all I know about grounding. Caveat. I am not an electrician and most of what am saying are based on what I learned from talking to electricians and also from readings. this is by no means meant to be a guide nor should it be taking as one. Best to be used as an aid for further reading and also have basic knowledge of what grounding is about and why it is important. It would be nice if other gurus in the house can shade light on this issue.
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durodee:From all I have read about grounding .. all system in an off grid setup should be connected to the same ground in a process called bonding. Your panels and their frames and your controllers batteries inverters and all appliances in the house should all terminate to the same ground. Grounding separately (again from my readings ) defeats the purpose of creating 1 path of least resistance to ground. Might want to look it up. I have my system setup this way although the controller and batteries are yet to be connected to ground. |
durodee:Was your system grounded when the lightning strike happened ? |
Btw have an extra Epsolar Tracer 3210A MPPT charge controller in case anyone is interested new and with 1 year warranty 35k
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shithapuns:They are actually AGM batteries, at least from this link http://www.blueboxbatteries.co.uk/dyn/filemanager/fiamm-fit-battery-range.pdf though prognosis remains the same. those batteries are have reached EOL. A shame because they seem to be decent batteries although I doubt they are meant to be deeply discharged. |
earthrealm:Right on the money. The DC version is what you need if you are interested in keeping taps how your battery is being discharged and battery voltage etc. You places is upstream of your inverter. Between it and the battery. It comes with a current shunt and a connection diagram. The AC is for monitoring AC part of your setup. If you want to monitor load going into your inverter. |
I actually got the tool because I could not afford the trimetric 2030. Got this for less than 20 dollars off Aliexpress. Doesn't do the same job as Trimetric though. I use it mainly to keep a tap on my discharge rate, battery voltage and total power consumed in a circle. It is a generic product without a real name. Just search for peacefair. It can handle 100v and 100A |
Btw this little tool is great for keeping an eye on battery voltage, discharge rate and total cumulate every used by the inverter. It also helped me know the idle load of the inverter. It comes with a current shunt and a diagram on how to connect.. it's really helps me monitor and keep track of my load and discharge.
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shithapuns:It was not sustained. The average rate as 550w.. but as u know that cloudy days can be very flaky so sometimes drops to 450w. The cc is epsolar. For my relatively small panel size, I made sure to optimize how they are mounted. Ground mount ensures less heat. The panels face true south (not magnetic south) and are tilt to 81 degrees from vertical. I used 10mm wires for all the 20 meters between panel and cc reducing my losses to less than .5% (am sending in over 90v) so I did make try to make the best of what I had. |
Performed my first major upgrades to my system today. The result was fantastic. I have before now 2 240w panels connected in series. The cloudy weather of Kate meant my panels where always struggling to put my battery in float before I get back from work. Something that usually don't happen before. Anyways. Decided to add 1 more panel.. a 220w panel to make a string of 3 in series. This meant I had to change my cc from the 3210A tracer series to the 3215RN series. The former is unable to handle more than 100VOC of panel string which meant no to the big connection. Lucky the former controller was a gift so I took it out and after all said and done. The result was outstanding. I got about 651w from the panels when I ran a load test. About 24AH and this was on a cloudy day in Abuja. I was able to power 90% of house appliances including fridge and freezer without the batteries going out of float. I sharply bonded the second PV mount o my central grounding rod. And left the freezer to stay on. Walahi PPP life sweet
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BasedOnB:Brother Based on your comment. Here is what I think. Your battery seems to have reached . EOL ( end of life). It would be hard to say for sure because you supplied very little details on the type of battery it is. (Networking battery is not a type of battery) might want to supply he picture of the batt to help house Jedi Masters. Can it be revived. Maybe but don't put your hopes on it. How long have u been using he batteries? How would you describe your regular usage patterns.. like how many hours does it run and how much load do u put on it during the run time. My preliminary guess is that the batteries died due to being under charged and over discharged. I use the sukam falcon plus. And as much as I love that inverter. I have noticed that it is often times unable to fully charge a battery. In my case.. my charge controller continues to charge my battery even when my inverter has stopped charging. The reason for this is probably because the charging algorithms on the sukam is set on a very conservative side to prevent over charging. Secondly you probably use this batteries till the inverter start singing low voltage. Nothing kills a deep cycle battery faster. They aren't meant to be 100% discharged. It shorting their life faster than ebola in a human body. What can be done. Get a new battery but before u do. Have a hand on your consumption pattern. A well designed consumption pattern should be built around using 50% of your battery capacity and ensuring it is replaced fully before you use them again.. which leads us to power generarion. Bros. That 50w panel is no where near what you need to charge your batteries. You would need at least 300w panels and preferably an mppt charge controller rated at 20ahs Let's do some maths. So u have 300w panels.. let us take out the usual 77% loses to heat and charge controller efficiencies. 300*0.77 = 231. So your 300w panel should give u around 230w daily divide that by your battery voltage 230 ÷ 12 =19.2 That's the average you would get from the panels with an mppt controller. 5 hours of sun is more than enough to charge your batteries to full from a 50% depth of discharge. You might want to get a 200ah battery in future. Luminous agm are some of the best in the market. There hope that answers some questions. There are still so many things you need know. You might want to Google more and read back at the older discussions. Lots of value tressures back there. My self too am a learner so you can always Google to see if what I say makes sense. |
kencarters:no quarrels. just note that, not displaying your price gives the impression your price is not competitive.. there are many items here for sale and most people don't like the hassle of calling or making contact when they don't even have an idea of what price is. for me, not displaying price on an open forum is a red sign |
oneshowguy: |
DUNKA:Hard to get OEM charge profile for this battery all my searches resulted to null. Down side of buying little known (on a global scale ) product. Anyways I did get some information of off sukam tubular battery via their technical support in India ( told them I use their tubular batter... I lied) Anyway my charging profile - based on what I gathered from other Indian made tubular battery like Sukam, luminous and exide - are as follows Boost 14.4v to 14.6v. Tubular batteries according to most docs I read are said to be fully charged at 14.4v but the fact that some charge controllers are unable to accurately sense battery voltage .. Might be safer to set your controller to 14.6v for boost. Float is 13.5v Equalization is 15.5v Hope this was of help |
Hi guys, about 8 months ago I started the journey to energy independence. I decided to go solar. It was a major project for me and one which I DIY. I would be making series of videos and post regarding all the challenges and my design choices. Here is the first in the series https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pi0GqivTTO4 |
xreakz:You need to come clean on all your setup to be able to get good advise here. Especially has you have confirmed to be a noob on this subject. At least let us know what controller u are using, the estimated distance between charge controller and solar panels. There is no standard advise that apply to all type of setup. How u string your panel depends on many variables. Let us know the type of controller especially the model and rated output etc. Then u will get best advise not just a generic advise which might not apply to your setup. |
pranil:Interestingly Zinox engineer I spoke with confirmed to me that the Ipowerplus is actually based on Voltronic Axpert and not MPP Solar. Some of the things I read about MPP solar online does not make me too comfortable with the product. Here is just one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33_V7vHk8Rs |
okoegualek:1pcs Energy Power Meter Watt Volt Amp Frequency Monitor Analyzer 230V 50Hz Worldwide Store http://s.aliexpress.com/a2QrMz2m (from AliExpress Android) Make sure to indicate that you want the European plug. I still.make purchase with my GTbank master naira MasterCard. Price should be around 5k even with new exchange. |
VULCAN:That battery has caught my fancy too. That there seem to be very few brand attached to it raises a red flag for me. One thing is sure these type of batteries are Opz batteries which can valve regulated (opzv) or flooded acid (opzs) there are known to be very rugged due to their Tubular plates and the former is know to require no maintenance and can be deeply discharged. Ideally it is the best battery to use where high amount of amp is required in a setup rather than resulting to parallel battery arrangement and it's pitfalls. Getting them in 2v and arranging them in series would serve u better than getting 12v batteries and arranging them in parallel. Having said all this. The reliability of the particular brand I see being market around is of serious suspect. Most seem to be rebrand of Chinese models whose reliability is in serious doubt. You might have to rely on an independent personal experience to reach any conclusions. My advise is hold out for now. And if u gather any information on them. Kindly let me know. I have my eyes on them. |
DMerciful:if u are still interested I have 30A battery for sale. than a month used |
tradeplusib:zinox Ipowerplus is Axpert Inverters. Though I doubt they might want to take service of anything other than the Ipowerplus. You can try seeing with their engineers |
netotse:Connecting all in parallel would give u a total V of 30 which is also not optimal especially the wiring 6mm u are using. U would be experiencing serious voltage loss. Doing a 3x 2 is your best config and would put losses to 3-5% between PV and cc. |
netotse:That is too much series connection bro. I don't know the capacity of your controller vis a vis the voltage of your battery system. The rule of thumb is that total vmp should be about twice the size of your battery. That is the most efficient configuration. Sending about 330v to your controller is .. overworking it at best I doubt they are many controllers that can handle such. If your battery system is 48v then a 2:2:2 and if it is a 24v system then a 3:3 would be your best arrangement. If you overwhelm your controller with volts.. more than 3 times your battery volts then lots of energy would be lost to heat in the conversation to a lower dc volt.. and u will end up over whelming the cc killing it before it's time. Gurus in the house would add their advise. |
DMerciful:Truly so. The meter supplied with Epsolar can't always be relied on. This is why I plan to install inline meters at different points of my installation. One between PV and CC to give me reading of what is coming directly from PV. One between cc and batter to give me figures on what is going to battery. And one between battery and Inverter to monitor what goes into and comes out of the battery. This would be a better way to have situation report and status of an installation. |
bisi12004:. Best direction to place panel in Nigeria is to face directly, true south ( different from compass or magnetic south) at a 81 degree critical tilt |
samnaija:rather than do that, why not invest in more panels? Nigeria is not in the path that makes wind energy very lucrative atm. Your turbines would need to be very high up and it's might lead to voltage loss or high cost of wire and mount. Unless u live in a sky scraper. |
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I sharply bonded the second PV mount o my central grounding rod. And left the freezer to stay on. Walahi PPP life sweet