₦airaland Forum

battleaxe:
@house,
Is it typical that when a battery is being charged and reads say 27V, for this to fall abruptly to say 22 or 23V once the source of power is gone?

This would depend on the how deep the battery was discharged before being charged and how long it was charged for before the charger was turned off. Generally though, that battery is pretty much dead. It means it can nolonger hold a charge and hence is best recycled. Never use such battery with new ones.

Also, is it typical to loop two separate solar arrays together and terminate just one cable instead of two for both arrays on the breaker?

I have my thoughts on these but looking for individual experiences on this.

Thanks house.

It is possible but not recommended nor advisable. slight shading on one panel in one of the array can result in damage or even fire due to excessive current being pumped into the panel because of the bottle neck created by shading. If you have to use 2 arrays especially when their mounted in different locations. Best to use separate breakers and charge controllers.

Wisdombankxz:
No Sir... Don't be surprise Nairaland security is stronger than Https.
Any site can have HTTPS na small money kill am.




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Audience =99% Nigerians

Call or whatsapp 08084334575 for cool transaction.

dogstyle007:
I think Nairaland is using Cloudflare which makes it secured in some way

The above post shows the misconception people have about SSL (Secured Socket Layer). SSL is not meant to protect a website per se (It can to a limited extent protect a website domain from phishing or man in the middle attack).

However the main purpose of SSL is to protect the user of a website. Most importantly things like the user login data but also ensures the user's privacy by ensuring that data between the users and a website is encrypted and not visible to anyone monitoring the network the a user is browsing from.

What ssl does is create a secured tunnel between the user and the website. anyone monitoring a network using tools like wireshark would not be able to see data being transmitted between the user and the website. This ensures that important information like the user login details are not revealed to preying eyes.

Nairaland not having SSL is a huge security hole and a big de-service to its. It means anytime you login into Nairaland, any one monitoring the network you are connected to can not only see the exact page you are browsing from. The will see what you are typing and even see your login details. Wireshark too for network snooping is so common that it can be installed and operated from a mobile phone. And because most users use common passwords i.e same passwords for multiple devices. The NL password can be used to gain access into some other services like their email, facebook etc.

Why is nairaland not using SSL: It is definitely not because of cost. Free SSL certificates are now available. Letsencrypt for examples offers free SSL/TLS certificates for free valid for 6 months, they also include scripts that automate renewal process. Besides a wild card certificate cost less than 200 dollars (less than 80k per year) so cost is definitely not the reason.

If not cost then why encrypting a site with SSL can affect performance of the site. This is because optimisation like compression of data might be affected, and also the decryption process using CPU. However modern cpus have dedicated instructions capable of handling website encryption an example is one of the most popular ciphers, the Advanced Encryption Standard (AES), has had dedicated instructions added to modern CPUs, helping it run substantially faster than ciphers implemented in software.

The idea that SSL affect performance is now essentially a myth. Even then if the administrators are scared of performance related ssl issues. They can always implement a system where by only the login pages are encrypted. That way at least only a user login information is protected. This can be implemented using simple apache/ngnx rewrites to direct all login pages and user profiles to https. and the user is directed by to http. I implemented some similar on this site http://repository.aust.edu.ng (An E-library website) The main site is unencrypted however you will be directed to https when you attempt to login.
Here the user login data is protected but the rest of the site is unencrypted since its mostly meant for downloading of contents.

NAIRALAND HAS NO EXCUSE NOT TO USE ENCRYPTION. It owes it to its users.

My advise to users of NL is never use the same password on NL has with what you use on important sites like facebook, email, twitter etc.

JohnKester:
I have the 300L, which has been in use for almost 2 years. it is awesome and I have not had a single issue with it since it was installed.

Just install and forget it while you continue to enjoy your hot water.

Cheers

chairman. I have been trying to reach you. I have some question regarding Hydraform u used in your apartment. Would appreciate if you could reach me

pranil:
My wife complains that the house should have it's own user manual
I am mainly using my Pi3 to run emoncms with ICC to mintor my Axperts ( which power the AC) and same PI is also attached to Touchscreen displaying the VRM from Victron /Venus GX

The another pi is only running measureit with currentcost to measure whole house consumption and uploading to PVOUT ( thats how I posted teh booster data)


I am now trying to get the unified dashboard for Victron and Axpert ( ipower) and other stuff using http://freeboard.io/

Currently stuck on some code on Github which needs to be modified as I have no Knowledge of JAVA- If any inhouse experts are there I can use the help

So the VRM works with a raspberry pi lcd making it essentially a CCGX? I tended to do just that. I read the touch screen part has some driver issues since the code has not been tested on the Venus image your thoughts

EgunMogaji:
This is good to hear.

Do you mind sharing info on the batteries?

There are Mercury Tubular Batteries. Although the particular model I have is nolonger imported, Luminous sell similar batteries. It is a flooded acid battery which means it needs to be topped up periodically from time to time with distilled water.

oyb:
I'm surprised to read this. All these appliances come with name plates which indicate wattage or current. There is also a limit on what you can test in the shop.

Not all, most have the power details in the power socket which are usually meant for protection hence what is labelled there is fuse rating of the device rather than its actually usage power consumption. The biggest problem is having to actually go to a physical store and check the nameplates. From my experience of doing energy audit with a watt meter, listed wattage are in most cases an vary from actual usage. The worst offenders are freezers.

EgunMogaji:
I've been silently watching auctions on military grade solar batteries. These are fail safe batteries which costs taxpayers a fortune but they have a rotational cycle of only 2 years.

I have a friend that was lucky to get some out of Hawaii. He is a techie and he rants and raves about their capacity.

Anyways, like you said, the good products are out there but our fellow citizens have managed to dilute the "movement". One of my retirement business models is selling/installing solars. I've been doing a fair amount of research and just not sure if the populace is ready to embrace the eye popping cost of the good stuff. Some will but I want to follow the Walmart business model. Sell a lot for less.

even the normal batteries sold in Nigeria can be used and expected to work well with solar. Offgrid solar systems can be very flakky and the devil is in how u use your system, sizing your loads to be in sync with what you generate. My own offgrid setup which I DIY is working 24/7 plus minimum of 8 hours Freezer and Fridge time and yet battery is usually cycled at about 35% depth of discharge. My battery voltage has never dropped before 12.3v since I starting using the system about 2 years ago

desiji:
If you really watch the Video to the end you will get, where he said they went for the best Electronics in the market i.e the A/C are also inverter A/C which dosen't need a high percentage of starting current and runs at 30% lesser current than the normal A/C which are being sold and if some people could remember, i have always being an advocate of buying the A++ Electronics which are more current friendly and dosen't too much power.
Where i am at there is a revolution going now with the highest grade of going green from The tiniest Electronics to the high ends one. if like i said we keep on following the status quo will we never get anything done. we that know better should be the one's Leading and let other follow.
I know for sure that if the people see and know how viable this system are they will quickly join but you have a point of this get rich quick method of the sellers selling inferior and not qualitive things to people thereby making a mockery of what could have been a movement.

Because it is not easy to get A++ appliances in Nigeria. Our regulators do not mandate appliance importers and manufacturers to include energy ratings in their products and as such it is very hard to know how energy efficient whatever appliance you are getting really is.

When I started my journey to renewable energy about 2 years ago, I went out of my way to ensure the appliances I got for the house had good energy star rating. It was a very stressful experience. What makes things even worse was how hard it is to even get the power consumption of devices sold in Nigeria. Even on the major e-retailers from Jumia to Konga, very few items have watt consumption has part of their specifications. I had to make do with taking a watt meter with me to any mall to physically check watt consumption before I make any purchase. Its that bad

purplekayc:
is this watt meter okay?

That is just fine. I use exact same meter and it works fine.

Hi my people in the house. I started following this thread today and I can see a lot has been said in the past. I am currently reading through the thread but I know that it would be hard to go through everything discussed earlier so please don't be angry if the question am about to ask as been asked before.

I am an aspiring first time owner and about to embark on my first project. The plan is to go super budget and low cost. I do not have a plan yet but all I want is a simple.. very basic 3 bedroom apartment on a 50 x 50 meters plot of land I just recently procured. Because I am starting afresh and opened to new ideas I was considering using Interlocking bricks like hydrofoam due to the numerous advantages I heard about them but unfortunately I am yet to see a company into those type of technology in my part of Abuja.

Although I am still open to using Hydrofoam I have resolved to doing things the classical nigerian way. I would appreciate suggestions and ideas I can use so that me and my family can also be house owners. Cheers.

DMerciful:
This weather is not helping at all. My solar system cannot shout!

Interestingly the rainy season is some sort of paradox. It's when I usually record pick power both the south facing array and west facing array hit figures above and close to their rated power respectively. I guess it has to do with the combination of occasional clear skies and relative drop in temperature and how common the two tend to align during these season. I got the second array to Jul-Aug proof my system and so far it is working I get an average 5kwh daily generation. Rainy season can be brutal in the south days on days where the sun just go awol. I had to pinch myself sometimes that am not close to mordor lol. If I live down south. I will battery up my system to allow me survive at least 3 sunless days.

taribosales:
What is the mileage on the tokunbo, is it automatic? What is the year of manufacture?

Mine is a 2007-model automatic (ladies prefer this model) with 74k miles, upgraded alloy rims (show side view and engine of your car, please), upgraded Boujicord Ignition, upgraded A/C, it's better than most tokunbo versions of the same car in the market. Release full specs of your car and if they are better than mine, I will give you mine for free.

Is your engine 2.0L or 1.6L? mine is 1.6L and that's lower fuel consumption.

Bros Not to rein in your parade but automatic is never an advantage when it comes to Peugeot cars. They are known for being problematic and very difficult to fix. I read the auto gear is tired to the EUC(brain box) which makes fixing them very complicated so you can cut out the automatic as a feature talk. The price of your car is outrageous for a Peugeot. You don enter Toyota corolla territory aka shut yourself in the foot

efuro:
Thanks All

It has been bad trying to post here in the last few days
particularly if you don't copy remarks before posting them.


the inverter is Microtek 1,600w (2KVa).

In addition to your views above. do you think DC Amps drawn by the inverter is same as
AC Amps irrespective of the waste due to conversion?
I know DC watts is not = to AC watts

Watt is watt irrespective of whether dc or AC. The fundamentals of power doesn't change. Amps x volt will always be equal to watts just that with AC you have higher voltage than amps. While reverse is with DC. Inverters just convert from DC to AC but in doing so some energy is lost to heat.. This is what is called inverter efficiency. The higher the efficiency the lower the loss. Efficiency of inverters is usually represented by percentage in must inverters. Mine is 85% efficient meaning only 85% of DC power taking from battery is converted to AC %15 is lost to heat (when it running at full capacity) . If u have a watt meter. You can determine how much the inverter uses to run which is called idle load. I found mine uses 50w just when running without any loaf attached. From what you have posted it seems your inverter itself is using close to 100w just to run. This might explain the missing watts you noted.

richard69:
Good day gurus, please I want to know if I'm on the right track. I have a 2KVA inverter, 2 * 200AH 12v battery already installed and working well but I want to add solar panels. I don't have the money to acquire everything at once but been able to get a few.
1, 60 amp 24v mppt charge controller
2, 2* 250watt mono solar modules and I intend getting 2 more 250 watts mono solar modules to make it 1000 watts. Am I on the right track?

That would depend on your load. I started solar journey with just 2 panels. But because I had my energy audit right I was able to use it well and ensure I don't cycle my battery below 30% depth of discharge. It has been said many times in this thread. The most important and cheapest activity you need do before u by a single component is an audit. It might sound boring but when u do it. You will be glad you did. So do an audit and come back to ask same question.

bigrovar:
Yes the Fangpusun does not use clock to for its log. It has a complex algorithm of determining day and night. I feel it is designed around when sun is up aka when it is charging and when sun is down aka when it is off.. A charge circle is read as day one. It pretty much works and has allowed me keep a log of joy harvest since beginning of this year pretty much. Although it will not give you real time minute by minute log function like those found with Midnight classic. However that function can be added for as little as the $35 it would cost you to buy a raspberry pi 3


My too I just got a new freezer o. This time a thermocool. Got one yesterday. Still observing the thing. First test once I unpacked was not encouraging. Was using about 240w. The LG it replaced was a bit bigger at 175l this one is 166l. The later uses 150w and this thermocool uses 100w more than the LG. I still dey observe sha. And yes mine too was frosting from the bottom up.

So it turns out these freezer settles down real quick. I brought my watt meter from work and after an initial starting stage surge of 240w (not to be confused with start up surge) it settled down within 30 minutes to 115w which is quite OK for me.

purplekayc:
CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

Bros you are still estimating. Just get a watt meter. It will save you money at least ensure you don't waste money. When starting solar. It's important to get your sizing just right. Everything depends on your consumption. Number of battery depth of discharge number of panels size of inverter. And you have to be as close as possible. Checking name plate ratings just aren't reliable. There is no way a sound system uses 100w unless you are using it in a night club or one from 1982. Contact Juo or Frank for a watt meter you will be glad you did.

purplekayc:
CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

Bros you are still estimating. Just get a watt meter. It will save you money at least ensure you don't waste money. When starting solar. It's important to get your sizing just right. Everything depends on your consumption. Number of battery depth of discharge number of panels size of inverter. And you have to be as close as possible. Checking name plate ratings just aren't reliable. There is no way a sound system uses 100w unless you are using it in a night club or one from 1982. Contact Juo or Frank for a watt meter you will be glad you did.

purplekayc:
CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

HeartforGod:
Thanks bigrovar.

The cc is Fangpusun 70a mppt with an external display. I have my HT freezer (240w name plate, though my prag inverter displays 1.8a as current draw for the frezzer) connected to it and runs during the day. fans and TVs stay on once my children come back from school.

On the cc, the bulk indicator light stays on all day while the solar is charging and never goes into absorb or float mode at all. my location is PH.

Extra info i can provide is the battery OC voltage stays around 25.0V (6 units of mercury 220ah FLA connected in series-parralel) after night use. I plan on adding washing machine to the inverter but not having the batteries go into absorb/float is posing as a show stopper for me

(

Have you ever connected that controller to a PC before?
secondly. when you are home and on a sunny clear sky day.. say around 12pm when solar harvest should be at pick not down the following. The PV watt i.e the watt being generated from the PV and the PV voltage. Since the controller would (as u stated) be in bulk, it means it would be using all power from the pv in charging the battery. It would help to know the mppt pull down voltage of the controller.That would help in determining how optimal the cc is working. My system pull down voltage stays at around 48v (for the 45/150 fangpusun, and 50v for the 50/100 fangpusun)

HeartforGod:
Hello gurus in the house.

I have a problem that needs your professional advice. I have a PV array (total wattage = 1800w ), mounted flat on my roof facing south. Since it was mounted, the max production I have ever seen (on a bright sunny day and the batteries still in bulk mode) is 912w and high kwh ever recorded per day is 5kwh. Today, I was able to get on the roof to check the connections myself and all seems fine. I also measured the tilt of the panels with a protractor and it gave 30degrees tilt. The cable size from PV to cc (70a mppt) is 10mm and the panels are connected in 3 * 2string (6 units of 300w mono). No shading around the panels.

Please guys, what could be the problem issue with my power production??

Please, help figure out what the problem could be.

did you do a load test? also what type of controller are you using? If it is any of the known mppt brand (Tracer,Fangpusun,Midnight, outback etc) then try doing a load test. a well installed pv - cc would only give as much as is needed. If your batteries are always in float and your consumption is not up to 912w, you will never be able to drive your system to pick production. Ever since increasing my array to 1.4kw my PMAX has never been above 1.1kw and that is even rare due to the fact that my load is capped at 700w.

Saipro:
I chose Midnite for personal reasons. I however have a technical reason for porting to Midnite : cloud cover is very fickle we slower scanning iTracer. In addition, under similar test conditions, the Outback and Midnite CC charge FLA batteries. This is a purely personal set of tests run over a period of months. Do not use my inference for your own system design. I accept no culpability if your system detonates.

This was the exact thing that drove me to Fantron after 3 Tracer experiences. It seems all the tracers (Never tested the Itracer before though) have problems with finding MPP during and cloud pass over. Especially on an hover cast day, or when sudden load is applied on a sunny day when the battery is on float. All the tracers I have would force a restart when it get confused and unable to determine MPP. the worst is the BN series. That thing can stay 10 minutes finding MPP.

earthrealm:
hmmmm, yours is frosting from the bottom up?, mine is frosting from the top down!, am suspecting a fault/a leakage, the LG i tested at the shop, started getting cold from the bottom, while the samsung started getting cold from the top, didnt stay long enough at the shop to confirm if the LG developed frost on the whole of the insides . STILL OBSERVING, NIGERIA BEING WHAT IT IS, my only hope is to return and exchange for another product, doubt they will issue a complete refund.this my samsung is 260L, lol i nearly bought the 175L LG, i think it has a 140/130watts energy nameplate.mine has been on now for 12hrs...and still hasnt frosted all through, even though its on the faster cooling option. pls lets observe and compare notes.


freezers are best compared in sizes dimensions/liters . so if a 200l freezer takes 130w, a 300w freezer taking 150w is rated to be more energy efficient, cos its doing more work/chilling a larger volume

thermoccol products are very good, but they dont follow international standards -- aka energy rating, unlike samsung/lg/scanfrost etc, most of their products dont hv an energy rating, L nad samsung freezers do, thus i think HT products wud be chopping wattage like no man biz, my double door almost 6ft 350L HT fridge takes 125w after working for several hrs

I suspect a leakage. No waste time return am sharp sharp. I say this because my 175L LG which the Thermocool replaced started its problem by exhibiting the frosting from top to bottom symptom. After which the watt usage dropped considerably from like 150w to like 80w then 60w. A freezer that would be chilling things just after 2 hours would be on for 24 hours and not a speck of ice to be found anywhere. I called someone from LG to have a look and he confirmed I was experiencing leakage. My brother no waste time. return that thing before you finish reading this post. And insist on a new one/product. There would try to convince you and blame it on weather, NEPA, your gen the size of your kitchen.. stand your ground. They would tell you they have sold over 67billion of the same product and not one complain. Still stand your ground. don't allow it to be fixed. Request for a refund.

so on a cloudy/rainy day so the fang is still able to determine when a new day begings and ends?.

No matter the rain (Unless you have a total eclipse of the sun for 12 straight hours) you still get some juice coming in. Remember solar panels only need light to function. My fangtron wakes up as early as 6:30 sometimes but definitely by 6:50 no matter the weather.

earthrealm:
ooh fangpusen doesnt hv a clock/time function?...how then doe s it log, abi it has zero log capability?
i know about the daily kwh logging, but am psissed u gotta be present to observe it daily.
my morning star, logs data for 30 abi 60days both AH and kwh

Yes the Fangpusun does not use clock to for its log. It has a complex algorithm of determining day and night. I feel it is designed around when sun is up aka when it is charging and when sun is down aka when it is off.. A charge circle is read as day one. It pretty much works and has allowed me keep a log of joy harvest since beginning of this year pretty much. Although it will not give you real time minute by minute log function like those found with Midnight classic. However that function can be added for as little as the $35 it would cost you to buy a raspberry pi 3

@all, noticed something in my quest for an an affordable energy efficient freezer.
a samsung duracool freezer has a 0.72amps current draw and 168w nameplate read about 115w on wattmeter after 8mins in the store
an LG freezer with 1amp current draw kicked in at 120w with the watt meter

from my lil knowledge of physics, i tot p =iv, thus the samsung shud have had a far lower wattage than the LG

Also is it normal for a new freezer to only hv frost from the top down?, tot the frost should cover the entire surface.
note: this is after being on for about 5hrs - no items inside

My too I just got a new freezer o. This time a thermocool. Got one yesterday. Still observing the thing. First test once I unpacked was not encouraging. Was using about 240w. The LG it replaced was a bit bigger at 175l this one is 166l. The later uses 150w and this thermocool uses 100w more than the LG. I still dey observe sha. And yes mine too was frosting from the bottom up.

DMerciful:
It has better log function than fangpusun due to the fact that fangpusun does not have clock function and thats one of the beauties why i like it. it gives performance at intervals of 10mins which is awesome. it logs daily kwh but u'll have to view it before midnite. most CC SOC reading is not very accurate because of the size and distance of the CC-battery cables which needs the terminal voltage sensor installation cable(comes with epsolar) to improve the accuracy. secondly the amount of load on the battery also affects the SOC accuracy reading.

To be clear. Only the Itracer model of Epsolar (their most premium offering) offers the functionalities you listed. The Tracer A and BN series have very little close to useless logging functionality and their algorithm for calculating SOC can drive the uninitiated mad neither do they have voltage sensing cables. The RN series is even worse. That one has no log function whatsoever, neither does it have adjustable voltage setting. That is their entry level device. Yet Epsolar still gives you the best value for your money. Especially the Tracer A series. BN series should be avoided like a plaque.

DMerciful:
That's what's going into my battery from a 1kw system...quite impressive and its sunshine panels

I saw what you did there

Epsolar Itracer is a beast.

smilingbolar:
Hi, I need an advice urgently. I want to install 5kva inverter in a duplex,to power 3 led tvs, 1 Ac 1.5 kva all light and 4 fans. Pls, how many batteries do I need? And what products I better?

Bros we are not magicians here.neither do we have super cow powers. If you need up with sizing of inverter and battery bank you need to supply proper data that would allow us to help. Get a watt meter it's less than 10k and do proper energy audit and then come here with the result and see if we don't help.

purplekayc:
Surround system : 330 watts
Home theatre: 500 watts

Bros. Those figures are still too much for a sound system. My 1200w LG 5.1 sound system uses just 18w at seriously disturbing your neighbors volume. If you want to do this properly. Get a watt meter. That small device would help you save considerable sum. It's not expensive heck it will cost a tiny fraction of what you will end up spending..

purplekayc:
Home theatre. 850 watts
Plasma TV. 180 watts
LCD TV. 70 watts
Strong decoder. 25 watts
Dstv decoder. 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs. 26 watts each
2 CPU s. 650 & 500 watts
Surround system. 1000 watts
2 monitors. 17 watts & 30 watts

There is no way an home theater or sound surrounds can consume 850w and 1000w respectively. You are confusing sound watts with electricity watts. Get a watt meter for proper testing

Ferdiwar:
I love what you are doing with the blog, full of knowledge with well detailed​ explanation and recommendation but I have a problem which is that I can't seem to comment or post anything there as the verification email for the disqus is not coming forth.

Please kindly advise on what to do to rectify this.

Thanks

Thanks for the observation. I have been a blogger for over 10 years. I blog mostly about technology especially with relation to open source and open culture. I took a break for about 3-4 years ago when I went on hiatus. Although I was planning to break the blogging hiatus and make a come back. The punishment NL content providers unfairly get from it's managers moved my hands. I will put things in order and do some proper house cleaning.

jazzman2:
Sir,

This type of systems usually have a battery backup option. That will take care of the scenario you described above.

In addition, ac-coupled systems are not only restricted to the use of micro-inverters. PV can be wired in strings to a standalone grid-tie inverter via a combiner box. The standalone grid-tie inverter (sometimes called a String or central inverter) can then be ac-coupled to a battery based parallel inverter hooked-up to a battery bank. However, PV shading and orientation poses significant issues with the string inverter. The problem of shading and PV orientation is almost completely eliminated with microinverters on each panel. MPPT is done on the panel-level and added power gains are as high as 30% as compared to string inverters that executes MPPT on full array-level. Cost is not always the most important economic parameter for evaluating solar systems. See the link below for more info:

http://energyinformative.org/are-solar-micro-inverters-better-than-central-inverters/

Enough talk. Here is a video of what you have been apostling about here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzcTFUcXwIY?t=241 the second video here (with details on the different between grid tie inverters and Micro Inverters in an AC coupled system.) and their comparison with offgrid systems
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ma6TN0PkohI

dejidotun2000:
Thanks. You typed "Tracer 3215RN vs Fangpusun 30/100", was that a typo or does Tracer 3215RN have the exact same features as 3210A.

Typo. Thanks for pointing that out. It would be corrected. I wrote that post from my phone.

dejidotun2000:
Gurus in the house, please which is better between Epever Tracer3210A and Fangpusun MPPT100/30A. I realize that they are both mppt cc and that the Epever has a screen while the Fangpusun requires an external display. Is there anyone here who has used both and can make informed comments about their real life performance. Thanks

Check my signature for the answer to that question