₦airaland Forum

good if you have an oscilloscope, this would have been a breeze for you, well, since it is a low amperage circuit, use your meter to do a continuity test between those pins and their corresponding pins in the PCM connector, but if were me. I would rig up something to test it using a test light, or if you have a test light that is 200ma or less, it is computer safe.

Leyelanre:
Federalism? I have nothing to lose so I will support any arrangement as long as we all follow the rules. At the same time, you should consider what will happen when these state governments are entrusted with huge amounts of money. If someone can divert funds from meagre amount of money, won't he do worse with mega sums. The problem I see here is not the federal government or at least not with the federal government alone. We are our own problems. We should put aside tribal differences and say no to corrupt officials. We should demand good use of our money.

U have absolutely no idea of what true federalism is all about, how about educating your brain first?

popplm:
thanks for the advice sir, but am not in Lagos....can you please help with a better re-wire in Osun state where I can take it to for the diagnosing.

I no even dey for Nigeria, just ask people were they do auto scanning, or were they use computer to find out the problems of car

na wa for these people, you go see person wey never travel out of ibadam dey tell you how nnewi dey, look by 1994 I left nnewi, there were already a lot of things built by individuals, I remember we rented a house, the house is a four storey building and we rented the basement, there were by then lots of four to five even six storey buildings many places by then, 1994 oh, and it is a pure lie that nnewi is a village, nnewi was developed by individuals, no single help from the useless FG, before the ediots start comparing her to Lagos, that was the seat of the useless FG of this useless country. Even Ihiala cannot be classified a village, bunch of c###s.

popplm:
Pls help me; my Toyota avensis 2004 always sluggish on motion and sometimes find it difficult to overtake a slow moving vehicle...but when it get warm it works normally...at times when also warm it won't work normally. My re-wire already checked and he changed my fuel pump but the problem still persists....pls gurus in the house should be of help.

That is the problem, instead of diagnosing the problem, they go about replacing parts like they are stupid, by the time thy finished with you must have spent money enough to buy a new car, tufia.
Take it to another person and have the fuel pressure tested and scanned for fault codes if any And live data for proper diagnosis. If you are in Lagos take it to Gazzuz

paulGrundy:
^^ edited.

Their arguments are changing gradually without them knowing it, I have been writing critiques on the watchtower for 2 years and interacting with some of them, reading their comments hence I can see a gradual shift in their stance, thanks to my efforts. My persistence will pay off later not now. Whose interpretation of scriptures do they follow? Its the watchtower!

You can never win a reading competition with blind men, you can only convince them of their sickness and then treatment. Help those around them who can see, so they won't be led by the blind men into the ditch.

you're blinder than blind itself

paulGrundy:
The doctrines they argue on this thread, who did they learn it from? Isn't it from watchtower publications?

man cut the crap, you sound like a broken record, why not go and sing it like a song, watchtower this, watchtower that, the person never at any time quoted the watchtower, in stead ALWAYS quoted the bible, anyways the fact that you are throwing insults and tantrums here and there shows that you are out of ideas, I don't expect you to change your views, so don't expect him or her to change Thiers, okay? Respect is reciprocal, just die this argument, and you know you lost, big time.

FEGEITOK:
I have a wiring diagram, and indeed I have been using it.

This is opportunity cost, I really want to repair the original wires but the route they are taking between the engine and component requires I remove the entire engine and the dashboard just get at them not to talk of fixing them.

The more components that need to be taken out and but back the greater the potential of causing some trouble, and I am not a mechanic...LOL

So I would rather cut the wires a few inches from the PCM and run new wires through insulation through the firewall to the component.

Indeed as they say short circuits are hard to find, open circuits are so easy to find.

Am not using a test light but a multi-meter.

As this is my first time, I am naturally cautious since I do not wish to cause any further damage in the name of solving a problem.

I suggest you take it to somebody that has the tools to disassemble the dashboard and you do the repairs yourself, or if you have the tools, you can try it your self, disconnect the battery first, before attempting it, start from the steering wheel, then remove the components and label or mark them so you can easily put them back, then go to the radio and use pry bars (plastic preferably) to pry those panels, they rarely use screws to hold them, they use tabs instead, then remove the glove box then the passenger air bags, take your time to find the screws, they are usually hidden from view, or under some panels, the main dash is held by 15 or 16mm nuts.
You will need patience, lots of it, to be able to bring this thing down, common sense is also required a lot, and if you can, do it with somebody, mark and label every nut and bolt and screw and every other thing, so that you will easily figure it out when you assemble it .

FEGEITOK:
Thanks so much.

So based on your explanation above and the extract below:

SHORT CIRCUITS

A short circuit occurs when electricity finds a short cut" from positive to negative; it is the result of a bare spot on the wire contacting part of the metal car body. The windings in electric motors can also short. Short circuits are hazardous be- cause they create sparks, burned wires, and blown fuses. They are more difficult to locate with a test light than open circuits.

1. Disconnect the suspected circuit at all points where it is joined by connectors (you'll need the wiring diagram for this).

2. Attach the clamp of the tester to the hot side of that circuit's fuse and touch the probe to the other side of the blown fuse. If the light goes on, the short is between the fuse and the first disconnected connector.

3. If the light doesn't go on, connect the first connector and touch the probe to the fuse holders again. If the light goes on, the short is between the first and second connector.

4. If the light again does not go on, repeat the process until the section of the wire with the short is isolated.

Which I have taken from this site: http://www.drivegreen.com/Auto_Service_5_Wiring_Lighting.htm

Can I safely cut out the part of the wires that go into the wiring harness from the engine compartment into the passenger area where the PCM is located and run new wires from the PCM to the component, provided that I ensure that each wire goes exactly into where I cut the old one everything should work?

Cause I can see that three different wires are shorted:
1. power supply is shorted to body ground
2. Monitor Signal to PCM is shorted
3. Monitor Signal ground is shorted

If I can get wires that match the colors of the pre-existing wires and run them from the component to the PCM all should be ok?

The I have isolated the fault to between the PCM and a connector, from the other connector end to the component is all clear?

Looking forward to your further comments

just use a wiring diagram, which can be downloaded free from bbbind.com. But try to repair the original wires first, if it is impossible to repair then you can rout another wire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFQBa-nqBPo?list=PLD2809EEC7BAAF989

ableguy:
All but but front is worse though my mechanic mentioned bow joint as being bad, could it be the cause?

ball joint not bow joint

you need to do an alignment job on your car, and change the four tyres with new ones.

The fuel trim learn and relearn is not static, it is dynamic, Toyota uses the AF sensor for their upstream measurement and the normal 02 sensor for the downstream measurement, and that one does what you typed above. here are some videos for more enlightenment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQYDwIWS6Ho&itct=CA8QpDAYDSITCISj_9u0k8wCFRDAFgodFV0GGVISU2NocsO2ZGluZ2VyJ3MgYm94&hl=en&client=mv-google&gl=US
part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8GLH6ubXoc&itct=CBoQpDAYACITCKGE6OW5k8wCFcGJFgodnvkOQzIGcmVsbWZ1SPrQy6yI-ICDXQ%3D%3D&gl=US&client=mv-google&hl=en


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLxu2Z5OfTM&itct=CDgQpDAiEwjd4qaSuZPMAhWShRYKHbUtBYAyC2M0LXZpZGVvcy11WhhVQ3JSUDRjNTBtZDBDQU54MDZLZkpoN2c%3D&hl=en&gl=US&client=mv-google



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxRBViOV6DE&itct=CCsQpDAYACITCLX38pa3k8wCFcMRFgodNrsCkVIyb2xkc2tvb2wgZnVuayBob3cgdG8gbWFrZSBhIGhvbWVtYWRlIHNtb2tlIG1hY2hpbmU%3D&hl=en&client=mv-google&gl=US

and how to make your own smoke machine,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFlyAqiYMro&itct=CCkQpDAYASITCLX38pa3k8wCFcMRFgodNrsCkVIyb2xkc2tvb2wgZnVuayBob3cgdG8gbWFrZSBhIGhvbWVtYWRlIHNtb2tlIG1hY2hpbmU%3D&hl=en&client=mv-google&gl=US

you can use your lungs if you don't have an air pump like you saw in the video.
some use cigarettes.

your car's problem is now more on the gas pedal potentiometer, your 02 sensors are working, for further test, if your car has a brake booster hose disconnect it and see if the voltage goes up, BTW I believe that that thing is not an O2 sensor but an AF sensor I think air fuel ratio sensor or something, so it does not react like your average oxygen sensor, sometimes you may even think that it is a faulty O2 sensor so don't touch it. Just manage till you get a new TPS.
Make sure you study your owner's manual and use the recommended oils and fluids, it is all on the manual.

makavele:
Okay i wil check the TPS again . . . and check for a vacuum leak . . i just hope its not something too serious like on the intake manifold, EGR , PCV valve or brake booster . . .I will be back in say, 2hrs
Thanks a million . . .

Your main problem is not the vacuum leak for now, your car does not throttle well, so, with the signal drop out your reported, it means the computer is seeing that erratic signal and thinks you are the one doing it, and it reacts based on the signals it receives, it is a kind of garbage in garbage out thing, so test that part and verify it works well.

Yes remember the soichiometry of car engines that is fuel air ratio, 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel, at closes loop the computer will be very obsessive with this ratio, so if it is withdrawing fuel it simply means that there is too much fuel, at wide open throttle the computer knows its at wide open throttle, so it will adjust to that, but it must maintain the stoichiometric ratio as far as it is at closed loop, WOT or not, so an improvement when you open the throttle is that the big air in the engine will displace the rogue air and at idle the effects of the rogue air will be felt worse. But before anything check that TPS, these must not be a signal drop out at all for all to work.

BTW you also mentioned STFT going down to -3.8, that is to say the the car is withdrawing fuel when the gas pedal is depressed, that is a good example of a vacuum leak, go to YouTube and study how to find vacuum leak, it is a piece of cake, even without a smoke machine, maybe you did not connect a hose properly, so a rogue and unmeterd air is finding its way into the engine. At idle it matters a lot because only a little air is needed but at wide open throttle its effect is diminished because there is way more metered air in the engine.
Don't ignore the STFT because that is what the computer is doing now and LTFT is what it has been doing, which is a product of STFT.

even if you don't have a thermometer, you should be able to tell the difference in temperature, if there is, then the check that you did not tamper with the sensor or its connector, check and clean the connector,
For the TPS, the graph line must me smooth, because this device is a rheostat or better known as potentiometer, Google the word potentiometer. Your engine just has some little corrections here and there to be done to be fine.

makavele:
Good morning

Update:

So i tested the TPS with the graphical live data . . it doesnt give a smooth curve as i depress it . . rather, i get erratic sharp high and low points
. . While driving this morning, i parked and checked the LTFT and it was at 10% .. i was happy. Only to check it when i arrived my destination; and it was sitting at 12%. When i depress the gas pedal, the LTFT doesnt move, but the STFT dips to about -3.8%. With the car in idle, STFT hovers around 0% and 1%. Another thing i noticed, I left the house around 7am and got to my destination at about 2hrs 30mins later; yet the temperature guage was sitting way low beyond normal. Even with full A/C and traffic. Is this a cause for the heavy fuel consumption. Pls check attached pic

I strongly believe that the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is not doing what it's supposed to be doing, using your scan tool check the engine temperature data at cold start and watch if it rises, if you have a thermometer check the engine temperature when the engine is hot and compare it with engine temperature data from the scan tool.

tojahh:
My Ogas in the House.....

My Toyota Camry 1996 is giving me cause for worry... when you select the 'D' while accelerating the gear doesn't change, you will notice its just that gear it doesn't respond per acceleration. please what could be the fault?

Those are the effects of using the wrong ATF

olahero:
It's kinda worst, I am so much disappointed in the writer, that's the problem Polytechnics students always have, only few of them writes and speaks correctly.

including you!

it hesitates a moment before moving forward, okay
still use the live data to determine what is going wrong, analyse the TPS signal graph it should be a smooth curve as you depress it further, how about the fuel trim, because it could be a vacuum leak due to excess air, if you depress the gas pedal and the LTFT improves, then it is vacuum leak, if it doesn't, then it may be a fuel delivery issue, does the engine vibrate? When last did you change your fuel filter? Did you clean the MAF as somebody suggested? if not do so to eliminate that variable. Download and watch that video again, and other videos in his channel's play list, you will be better equiped.

he is talking about African American woman not black women in general, I saw his video about our Bia*** darling uwamanzu he praised her to high heavns

Toluwarni:
Man sparks outrage with his opinion about black women...
Ladies, how true is this?

tommy Sotomayor is a black man not a white man you dolt

goodnews201668:
My dear please before you start throwing us inside hell,
Have you thought about this portions of the scriptures to see if they align with the hell fire doctrine?

1: Psalm 146:4, It says at death our thoughts do perish, If our thoughts do perish at death does it not mean that we'll be unconscious?
That's Bible's say about the dead, if so can an unconscious (spirit as you guys say concerning dead ones) experience pain?
Supporting scriptures (Ecclesiastics 9:5,10)

2: Revelations 20:13,14, How come those dead in hell came out, and hell itself was thrown into the lake of fire which Bible clearly says it means second death?
Will God construct another hell fire? support with Bible portion if so.

3: Why did the Bible said this concerning sin/sinners in Romans 6:7$ Romans 6:23.

4: Jude verse 9 said Sodom and Gomorrah suffered the vengeance of "eternal fire", is fire still burning them?

I also noticed you mentioned that hellfire was prepared for the devil, Does it mean the Devil will be made to become flesh to experience pain?
Or will the supposedly humans who will share hellfire with him be made spirits?
If so will them including the devil become special spirits so they can experience literal pains of a fire?

Please answer and support with scriptures, I still have some other questions but answer these ones first.

Finish him.
FATALITY

chukel:
normal value depends on ur rpm. At normal Idle rpm, u should get around 3 - 3.3g/s. This increases with increasing rpm.

also the size of the engine matters a lot a V6 will need more air than a 4 banger, like wise a v8 will need more than both the V6 and the 4 banger. STOICIOMETRY 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel.

makavele:
Yes, it is a drive by wire . . . maybe i will drive for a couple of days and see if the computer will adjust/re-learn

Thank u so much ... the youtube videos really helped ... took me about 45mins to loosen the T.Body though coupled with some bruised fingers

Good that is how it usually is, BTW try as much as you can to watch other related videos so that you can get a thorough understanding of this electronic Engine management system of a thing, go to channels like South Main auto, scanner dinner, Schrödinger's box and motoYam, you will never be overwhelmed with any car problem remember, take the info little by little, You stay strong.
There is no knowledge that is not power.

your car is a drive by wire system, if it is don't you ever take her to a kazeem.

It won't necessarily get down to below 5% because of the age of the engine, anything below 10% is good, but if it does, glory be to God.

makavele:
decided to get down 'n dirty today . . and here's what i did .

1. managed to access the throttle body and kept it with open with key in ignition; engine off, gas pedal depressed.
after cleaning the T. Body; the RPM jumped to 2300+ at idle ...

2. so i removed the whole gas pedal assembly . . and RPM was back to factory spec. . hovering around 800 at idle
and 600-750+ with load . . test drove it, and it drove fine, buh couldnt accelerate obviously.

3. a close look at the gas pedal assembly, i found out that the throttle position sensor, came loose and was wobbling . .so i had to tighten all bolts on the assembly; and also gave the pedal some slack . .

4. after coupling everything back together . . car idles around 800+ in neutral or park
and idles around 700+ with loads + gear.

5. I cleared the Crankshaft error code; i dont know if it would re-appear . .

Meanwhile, my Longterm Fuel Trim is still at 14% . . how do i make it go back to the normal 0% +- 5% ?

@chukel
I guess, I have to change the MAF, right ?

brother, very very good job, People like you are rare, you did a very very nice job.
for the fuel trim, just keep the car on for some minutes and keep and eye on the LTFT data it will slowly go back to below 10%, or depress the acceleration pedal and keep an eye also on the LTFT data, it suppose to go down to normal. The PCM will relearn and adjust gradually.
You stay strong, my guy, I like people like you.

^^^^
Do you know that the brain has no stimuli receptor nerves like your skin, that is why brain surgery patients are fully awake during the surgery, because the brain can not feel any pain. So I wonder what will process the stimulus in a clinically dead person.