₦airaland Forum

If your check engine light is on then scan your vehicle

Midoda:
You no know Liqui Moly?

Remember the op said he wants an alternative to mobil 1 that is cheaper but isn’t fake, How much do you sell this your Liquimoly again for the records?

Kenneth okonkwo is doing well. He will be a nice addition to the labor party train. I usually read his article in the Sunday punch.

slimmoney:
i get ur points nd explanations, but i doubt if there is any 2008 evil spirits with 2.0l k20 engines, all the 2008 accord with 2.0l badges i have seen mostly comes with tuned up R series engine, those car's were mostly sold brand new in Nigeria, attached is their engine

Yes you’re right. The Evil Spirits didn’t come with the K Series 2.0L version.

But I personally love the styling and features found in the ADM accords over the USDM ones. They usually have more features and options plus look a lot better too.

Burchester:
I have changed that. I learn it has to do with camshaft replacement.

Okay. Well, camshafts are easier to change than crankshafts.

ThatAppleGuy:
Kindly follow the arrow sign.

This must be a 4plugs right? For it to be leaking so high at the back of the engine it might actually be coming from your valve cover.

Are you sure you used a good gasket and your mechanic torqued the bolts to specs properly?

If it was coming from the other side behind the engine (near the cruise control module) I’d have suspected it was your vtc solenoid gasket.

And it is also true that the K20A used in these ADM (Asia or Australia) are usually right hand drive and must be converted before using in Nigeria legally.

Their engines are also the type tuned for more aggressive VTEC engagement thereby giving them almost similar power to their bigger K24A counterparts. You can say that they carry the Civic SI engines.

slimmoney:
that is not a k20 engine, 2008 Si civic use k20 engine and it's different from this, below is k20 engine, check out the intake manifolds its quite different

Dimensions of the K20A and K24A’s top and bottom block (skeleton) are similar even down to their mounting points. The only major differences are found in their internals.

The K20A’s Cylinder head or Intake manifolds can be swapped out and exchanged with the K24A’s because of the drive by wire or cable throttle body and it will work. The only thing to be changed is the brainbox.

People do this type conversion at oyingbo especially after an engine has kpafuka and the owner wants another one but with a lower fuel consumption

That’s when you’d start hearing of accords using civic engines. Plus there are actually 2.0l Honda Accords driving around too from the 2005 - 2011 production years. Those types of accords are the ones originally built for the Asian market and a way of noticing them is that they have wider spaces for installing their rear plate numbers. These were done because Asian countries have wider/longer rectangular plate number designs just like Nigeria used in the old days. The Asian specs badges and trims are usually i-vtec VTI-L (for their base trim) or i-vtec VTI-E (for their executive trim) and i-vtec VTI-S for their sport trim while the American specs have the LX, EX or S trims.

The 2.0l’s EOD’s have a ‘V’ shaped booth & taillights arrangement/design while the DC’s have their reverse lights spaced further apart. Even the Evil Spirits have their own distinct differences from their behind as well if you observe them closely.

See a few examples below, can you differentiate the USDM accords from the ADM ones?

nurey:
Olodo pedestrain

Although I acknowledge that the person you quoted is not a serious person I don’t think he’s 100% wrong.

There are K20 & K24 engines from Honda and they look 90% alike. The only way to know for sure is to look at the engine number.

The above engine might actually be a 2.0

tonylaw07:
Good afternoon.
I have a 2009 honda accord. The car stalls at will , if I stop and try to move immediately it never picks fast. Also if I am accelerating the car hiccups. To climb into my compound I have to accelerate down. The gear is not blinking.
I did a scan it just gave me a p0301,p0302, p0303,p0304.
Changed the plugs and coils and serviced the nozzles but still same.
Please what next can be the fault.

If you’ve changed your plugs and coils then you’d have to check your nozzles next or the wires connected to the four of them. There might be a partial contact or wiring issue somewhere along that line.

Last issue would be your brainbox.

Burchester:
My Honda Accord is showing P0011 Timing Advance ?

I thought I advised you before to either change that switch or change your timing chain and tensioner rod.

ThatAppleGuy:
Hello guys,
I have a 2005 Honda Accord (EOD) that is shorting oil. Sometimes around may, I noticed water had dried in the radiator (overheating), so I put water and have been observing if it drys again until I started noticing heavy vibration a couple of days later. So I did some routine check and I discovered the engine oil has really gone down below guage.

I was surprised as I had only serviced the car not more than a month before this issue started, so I called the mechanic who told me the oil was leaking somewhere (he showed me some part of the engine block where it was coming out from) and he suggested we replace the gasket and refill the oil.

After the mechanic had worked on it, I noticed this morning that the oil has gone down below guage again and I'm curios to know what could be wrong with the car.

Show a picture of the area where your leakage is coming from. Maybe it is a simple fix

oriste:
2009

Have you resolved your issue?

foxxydude:
Chief please post a photo of the EOD engine that you installed the can for us to see

Sorry I’m not using that particular vehicle anymore if not I’d have posted one. You can google it to k is how it looks.

@Perfectbeing

showietee:
Good evening, please my 06 civic is not firing properly, whenever I slow down or climb a bump, it does not pick up back immediately and sometimes, I will have to turn off the ignition and turn it back on before it speeds normally.

Scan your vehicle and post its codes here. Also try to change your transmission fluid too

berbs112:
I need help regarding the picture you posted earlier.

The only code my Honda accord 2004 threw up was this and I replaced this stuff and the code is still showing up. The wiring is intact. What could be the issue, rewire dey suggest I replace ECU (brainbox)

What’s the solution please.

You need to immediately change your timing chain and it’s tensioner (rod) too. Take your vehicle to someone who can reset your engines timing sequence very well for this fix.

Don’t mind your mech telling you to touch your brainbox

If I were you I’d get the crosstour. Specifically the 4cyl version. That one is very rare but it’s maintenance is as low as anything I’ve seen. The ride height is also optimal for everyday driving over bad roads.

Ps: pay no mind to the above poster talking about legs pulling, that’s beer parlor discussion.

Thurmieee:
Ok I want to thank you Bro.
I returned the engine to who I bought it from so he took me to a rewire....long story short we changed the sensors up and down and the car is normal now.....but the D light is blinking.....can the speed sensor cause that? They said speed sensor no mean anything.......also I notice the car RPM needle kinda jerks when I'm just pumping the gas to cruise at a particular speed

If your speed sensor isn’t good your gearbox won’t work properly and your gears won’t change up or down when it’s supposed to. Maybe that’s why your D light is blinking. You should replace the sensor so as not to introduce problems to your gearbox.

You can also scan your gearbox too but you will need a higher end scan tool and not the ones you used before.

Burchester:
My Honda Accord 2008 is showing

P0014 Code - Camshaft Position 'B' Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1

The car is making rattle noise and decrease of power?

Either your VTEC solenoid is bad (picture below) or it’s wiring is faulty. Check the wiring first

Or worse

Your timing chain might have jumped a tooth, you should buy another timing chain and tensioner rod and take your vehicle to a mechanic that knows how to set the timing chain of your engine very well to do it before the chain breaks and scatters your cylinder head.

Thurmieee:
Wow bros ok.....but please can I just get your services....abeg help me .....I think dis my meco no no about all this things.
People pls help me with a meco I can use......should I just return the engine.....doing this would void the warranty;which I'm still in frame.
I'm thinking of going to oyingbo on Monday

Go to oyingbo, call tobi 07089885601. He’s a good electrician. Tell him your issues, he will scan the vehicle himself and help you call a mechanic from his garage to do any other job concerning changing your timing belt/chain of it comes down to it.

But if it entails changing the timing chain/belt I will call the person that sold the engine to you and tell him to pay the bills for a new chain/belt and workmanship. After all he’s the one that sold an engine with bad timing components to you.

Thurmieee:
I can't sell it oh. That's how I sold my matrix for scarp after spending 250k on it.
Theses are the codes

Kai that mechanic that did the engine swap for you is a very big suspect. Did he complete his training at all?

See, if these are the only 2 codes you’re getting then your issue can be solved.

1st thing is the code for your output shaft speed sensor, those sensors sometimes get worn out/bad so you might need to buy another one OR your mechanic must have not connected the harnes to its plug firmly or cut the wires mistakenly and left it like that. Tell the mechanic to check the sensor and it’s wiring first before purchasing another one. This sensor is usually found somewhere on your gearbox.

For the other code concerning your TDC sensor, well there are 3 things involved.

1. The sensor itself is bad, in which case you’d need to buy another one although this sensor seldom fails.

2. Like I said earlier your mechanic might have messed up and not connected the wires from the harness to it properly OR even cut the wires mistakenly and left it like that. Tell him to trace the wire properly to know.

3. Your timing belt/chain needs to be changed and your engines timing sequence set afresh. Maybe this issue is what made the oyibo (or whoever scrapped the engine in the first place) have the originating vehicle sold off and his engine miraculously ended up in ladipo for you to buy. This sensor is usually under the engine cover near the timing belt area of the engine.

So check the issues in the way I presented them and you should have your issues with the civic resolved.

If you do all the above and your vehicle still does it’s fuse touchy-touchy wahala then I believe it’s time for you to change your whole fusebox totally.

Thurmieee:
Hello people my Honda civic 04 would just go off and won't start......until rewire comes and touch touch some fuses. I'm fed up

Either you scan the car for codes so we can know what your issue is.

buy a tokumbo fuse box and replace the faulty one in your bonnet since touching of fuse solves the problem

or you sell the vehicle and have some peace for your body and pocket

Thurmieee:
Now I think the engine is running rich on fuel it's really gulping fuel.....and it's bringing out black smoke

Take it for another scan so you can know the exact problem that remains

Rumundele:
Good day everyone in the house. Recently i noticed my car DC 07, jerk on motion and the sound also changed from normal that I know but still moving well.

Just now as I want to enter my car I discovered oil dropping down directly under the engine. I can't really explain when it started but just noticed now. I am afraid to start the car now as i speak.
Please what are the urgent steps to take, really confused

The urgent step to take is to find out what exactly is leaking and from where.

You have engine oil, gearbox oil, power steering oil, coolant and brake fluid that can leak out from your vehicle. So check all your fluid levels and know which of them is short.

Thurmieee:
Bro these steps are too much for a layman like me do you have someone you can refer or are you a technician....I'm still in the time frame of the warranty..
Abeg na some days remain
The car isn't running smoothly at all

Take the vehicle to a mechanic who understands where the following items are in the engine bay and ask him to check them out one by one.

1. Knock Sensor
2. IAT Sensor
3. ECT sensor
4. MAP Sensor

Or you can go to YouTube and search for videos that would show you exactly where those sensors are in your engine. Example if your civic is a 2007 model you can go to google and search for

“ 2007 Honda civic knock sensor replacement “ and you will see how to check and change each of those sensors out by yourself or at least you’d have a general idea of what and where they are in your engine bay. Check the four of the sensors I stated above first before you go to check the VTEC solenoid.

Thurmieee:
The car doesn't idle well. . it can go off when I come to a stop.....it doesn't accelerate in respect to how I press the pedal... If I don't get to high gear before climbing a hill it won't change gear on the hill.
Iffa break it doesn't respond to the gas pedal immediately. Are a mechanic? I really need the car to work 100% it's for ehailing

All these symptoms are what you’d experience with the kind of codes your vehicle gave you. Luckily for you 90% of them are east fixes so far as the mechanic who switched the tukumbo in didn’t damage your harness or brainbox while doing so.

As for your other 2 codes one is pointing towards your knock sensor. This one usually has a single wire plug that sits on the engine block itself. Check if the mechanic didn’t break the sensor or it’s plug. Check it’s wiring if it’s properly plugged in and not damaged.

Most mechanics who are not careful usually break many sensors as they are changing engines so better hope that’s your case. They won’t even tell you. They will just hook everything up and crank the vehicle hopeful it fires to life.

The last one is pointing to your an issue with your engines VTEC engagement. Vtec is a very important aspect of your engine. If things are not right with your engines health it will not engage and your vehicle will not have its optimal power.

The vtec solenoid itself can go bad but other times Loss of oil pressure, timing chain or camshaft issues can also trigger that particular vtec code. Still check it’s wiring and hope it’s okay too.

If you’re lucky once you change out or check the plugs and wiring of all the other sensors I spoke of this particular vtec code will follow others to disappear. If not I hope you’re still within warranty period for your tokumbo engine.

Canvass:
Ajidagba Akanke Mariam is a strong Yoruba name and claiming to be from Sokoto State points to this below;
Unity School Cut off Mark for Each State
Abia – 130
Adamawa – 62
Akwa-Ibom – 123
Anambra – 139
Bauchi – 35
Bayelsa – 72
Benue – 111
Borno – 45
Cross River – 97
Delta – 131
Ebonyi – 112
Edo – 127
Ekiti – 119
Enugu – 134
Gombe – 58
Imo – 138
Jigawa – 44
Kaduna – 91
Kano – 67
Katsina – 60
Kebbi – 9 (male) 20 (female)
Kogi – 119
Kwara – 123
Lagos – 133
Nasarawa – 58
Niger – 93
Ogun – 131
Ondo – 126
Osun – 127
Oyo – 127
Plateau – 97
Rivers – 118
Sokoto – 9 (male) 13 (female)
Taraba – 3 (male) 11 (female)
Yobe – 2 (male) 27 (female)
Zamfara – 4 (male) 2 (female)
FCT Abuja – 90
Some that scored 130 won't be admitted while some with less than 10 would be admitted on merit. When are we going to do away with this madness and let human capacity development be on merit only basis?

yet after looking at the above information some gullible zombies will believe Nigeria can become great in their lifetime

All the south eastern states have very high cutoffs followed by the southwest then the middle belt follows before south-south and the northerners take the last position.

Thurmieee:
This are the codes

When you said your vehicle isn’t working fine tell us what are the symptoms that it’s giving you as you drive (what are the problems you’re experiencing)

According to your scanned codes

The MAP is a sensor located on your engines intake manifold (the four pipe-like stuffs that are joined together with your engine). Check if its wiring from the harness is plugged in properly or change the sensor totally if it’s wiring is looking okay. When this sensor malfunctions if you start the vehicle and try to step on your throttle pedal you will bog the engine down and it will trip off.

For the ECT problem if your vehicle has no thermostat installed and it’s cooling fan wired to work continuously from when you turn your ignition switch on this will be the cause of this problem. You need to check the ECT sensor that is situated at the bottom rail of your radiator and see if it’s there. Check if its wiring from the harness is plugged in properly or change the sensor totally if it’s wiring is looking okay. If this sensor is giving issues you’d have poor fuel management.

The IAT is a sensor located on one of the plastic tubing going from your intake resonator (air box) to your injector mouth (throttle body). Check if its wiring from the harness is plugged in properly or change the sensor totally if it’s wiring is looking okay. Failure of this sensor will make your engine not idle properly and use much more fuel to stay alive.

For your other codes you should have tapped on it so it displays the specific code instead of the general ones.

Thurmieee:
Abeg I just changed my honda civic engine but the car isn't working fine......scanned it brought some codes.
The kazim said it's rewire palava blah blah ......also the fuel pump fuse misbehaves....but if they touch touch some fuse it'll work.

Oga go back to the person that scanned your vehicle and tell him to give you the codes he saw. Bring it here for better advice.

Then when next your fuel pump fuse is ‘misbehaving’ take special note of the fuses(s) or other stuff that your mechanic used to ‘touch-touch’ and it will correct itself. Bring your findings here too for better advice.

HeavenlyBang:
Honda oil life monitoring doesn't use mileage as far as I know. Uses things like number of cold starts, engine loads, rpms, etc since the last oil change.

True true.

Some newer model vehicles also specify only synthetic fluids and include its parameters into the oil life monitor. If you use conventional oil in such a vehicle and follow its ‘synthetic’ olm you will be in for a very rude shock when the sludge starts dancing in the sump and valve head.