₦airaland Forum

mctfopt:
Cool. The LTO looks so good when connected

Trippledots:
WOw..... I'm sure the shipping was crazy right? Can i see pix of your battery bank?

mctfopt:
What system voltage are you running?

Trippledots:
I know this post is old. Hope yoy don't mind.

I see that you now use this LTO batteries. What has the experience been like? And what made you pick it over other Lithium chemistries?

Thanks boss

adrusa:
Can some good samaritan share the ANT-BMS software with me. Thanks.

ceaser:
@bolded. By pushing to the limit, do you mean that you overrated the voltage going into the CC or the amp from the panels? If it's the amps, by what margin did you go?

Thanks. This is informative.

ceaser:
And I can't ignore the lovely PowMr.

I'm waiting for the day I'll push it to the max with 48v battery set up. Right now one is on 12v set and another on 24v setup, both firing well.

spartacus11:
You mean one can connect multiple CC to one battery bank?

ojtech8291:
Stopped charging until I have to off and on the breakers. It happens every time the sun is very high.

ojtech8291:
Thank you but remember that the one with Vmax 100V is 40A. Will the 2S3P not going above the CC current? I hate this kind of CC that won't allow manipulations. The last thing to do is reduce the panels to 4 units and look for another 2 units to hook up the leftover. Any suggestions?

ojtech8291:
I have 6 units of 275W panels, Rated voltage 30.9V, Rated current 8.91A, VOC 38.8V, SCC 9.47A and Max system voltage 1000V with two different CC 12/24/60A VMax is 70V, while the other is 24/48/40A Vmax 100V. Which of the controller is the best to handle 6 panels and at what configuration of the array, 2S3p or 3S2P?

ojtech8291:
I hope the Voc of the panel will not go against the Vamx of the CC at a peak sun?

earthrealm:
In addition to the already good answers given.
Dont mix poly and mono panels

ojeysky:
I believe so, especially if their ratings are similar, and certainly if you can plan only like panels in series

mctfopt:
Check Alaba or jiji https://jiji. ng/yaba/computer-accessories/69a-ericsson-battery-charger-mlvYDmaD1PjVnAlRxvhDehFb.html?lid=IkPODg0j84qSe2sI&cur_pos=1&pos=1&ads_count=8&ads_per_page=8&page=1

mctfopt:
Yeah, I forgot to mention that. The 24v version I've seen in operation can only do maximum of 26.8v or 13.4v, most lead acid needs something capable of pushing up to 14.4v, I guess that is the major drawback of it. But you can always check to see if yours can charge up to 14.4v, who knows whether they may just have tweaked it so.

ojeysky:
This is actually the BMS am looking to procure as well, can you share pictures of your LFP builds and price. It will be good if there is anyone here who have tried your build before?

That said, do you have the BMS in stock? I like to buy just that.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Ojeysky et al - what kind of information are you able to get out of your LFP BMS - does the BMS talk to you at all? Getting bored with my Pylons and considering getting a 48v LFP bank from JEMAG to play with.

Saipro:
Noted. Will try shortly.
Could I get a link to your version? Mine is version 1.0.03

Saipro:
I need to get the Midnite app working on Android 8.1 (it crashes on opening despite installing Adobe AIR).
How did you get yours running?

babaegun:
Chai !!!

Harvest in Abuja is bad today ooooo.

Rain Rain go away....

earthrealm:
cc:pranil

I am beginning to fall for these Lipo4 batts.
It sure trumps any lead acid battery.
Maybe you could bring me upto speed..too lazy to google
The 200A rating on the battery above, what does it stand for.
Secondly by my calculation.you need 40units of the battery in link below to make an 80ah bank?

https://batteryhookup.com/products/4-headway-38120-hp-3-2v-8ah-lifepo4-lithium-batteries-25c-200a-super-cells

mank1234:
Lithium is more prone to damage from adverse conditions (heat, imbalance due to failure of circuitry etc) than lead acid battery. Lithium is expected to be placed in a well air-conditioned environment. Which inadvertently will add to the initial cost and running cost.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Let us do this analysis differently using properly matched items.

The requirement is to power a 500watt load for 20hours and to keep things simple I have assumed any battery type can be fully recharged instantaneously without caring about how practical this is

To power my load, I can choose between

A) 8 Quanta 12v 200Ah Batteries (Useable 9.6kwh @ 50% DoD) costs NGN960K

B) 9 BattleBorn 12v 100Ah Batteries (Useable 9.6kwh @ 90% DoD) costs at least NGN3.8Million.

We need to be very careful here as one cannot use less than the stated number of batteries to power the stated load for the stated time

From here on I will just be saying Quanta vs BattleBorn for the specs above.

Quanta gives at least 700-750 cycles at 50% DoD based on empirical evidence vs BattleBorn 3,000 cycles. I will take 2 years & 730 cycles as a midpoint for Quanta performance and 3,000 cycles for BattleBorn.

If both batteries hold up, every 2 years I buy new Quanta batteries - 960K * 5 = NGN4.8Million over a 10 year period and over a 10 year period, I would have spent a prorated NGN4.6Million on BattleBorn batteries.

While the advantage is to BattleBorn, it is a rather close call and a few hard questions come to mind.

1) Would I rather spend 960K for Quanta today and replace every 2 years (assume inflation is zero) or would I rather sink NGN3.5Million in Battleborn and rest for 8 years?

2) Can I guarantee for sure that BattleBorn will give me 8 years service if I daily flog it to 90% DoD)? - we seek reviews regularly from Lithium users and they appear no better than Lead Acid so far - the common theme is failure/damage due to overcharge, overdischarge, over temperature and various other failure modes as the users and installers come to a full grasp of this new technology - it appears everyone is still learning Lithium and killing their Lithium banks prematurely seems to be a key part of the learning process

3) Standing where I am today, can I lock down my 10 year forward power needs and know that these BattleBorns I invested in will meet my power demand in 5 years time? I know I can easily upgrade every two years with Quanta.

4) On those days when I have peak demand, I can flog my Quanta and take them to 80% DoD - my expensive BattleBorns would have been fully spent and no extra power to draw out of them.

All the above assumptions can be flexed as you are inclined - people like Oga Dapsyra can tell us if his LTO batteries have maintained capacity with daily flogging to like 80% DoD and no decline whatsoever in performance.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I agree with the general trend of this analysis, but I would tweak it a bit while keeping prices e.t.c same as you have used.

Price vs. Performance

(60k/45k) - 1= 33% - Canadian Solar is 33% more expensive

(2,690W/2,005W) - 1 = 34% - Canadian Solar gives 34%
more instantaneous power (cloudy day test)

(3.6Kw/3.96Kw) × 2,690W = 2,445W - this is the theoretical linear adjustment for what an equivalent 3.6kw Canadian Solar array would have produced.

Fitting this into the original efficiency calculation

(2,445W/2,005W) - 1 = 22% Canadian Solar's performance adjusted for different array sizes - net 22% more instantaneous power than the Flames.

At this point the Canadian Solar almost nearly wins because you can save money in roof space required, mounting racks and cable runs e.t.c if you go with the Canadian Solar vs Flames.

To now crown it all, I realized from the logs today that my Canadian Solar array has been in service for 1 year and 30 days vs. Flames 1 year and 253 days yet the Canadian Solar put out an impressive 3.4MegaWattHours of cummulative yield vs. 3.3MegaWattHours for the Flames.

Canadian Solar overtook the Flames in cummulative yield while having 223 days less to work with!!! One can even penalize the days to account for different array size by a factor of 3.6/3.96 so 202 days less uptime.

I will go with a Tier 1 panel like Canadian Solar any day based on these results.

I also now understand my Ogas Duwdu & Saipro's comments about preferring higher voltage arrays for early CC wakeup and later sleep - those little differences may just add up to a tidy advantage over time.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Over here at my own corner of the world, we can't see the sun because it's all cloudy but I guess the MorningStar CC can.

1st pic - 3.96Kw Canadian Solar Array around 3pmish
2nd pic - 3.6Kw Flames Array around 3pmish
3rd pic - Weather Outlook

Blasting two ACs on Gen Mode sef as everyone dey house.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga Chris,

I am assuming you want to switch over between Mains and Gen? If your inverter can already start and stop the Gen then I believe a suitably rated 4 pole 2NO/2NC AC contactor should do - you should be able to implement this solution for under 10k especially if your house wiring is single phase or 'naija looped 3-phase'.

Simply decide which power source has priority and put the live and neutral of that power source on the [NO] common side of the AC contactor and put the live and neutral of the power source to be overriden on the [NC] common side - interlink/bond the load side (goes to the house DB) of the AC contactor live to live bonded and neutral to neutral bonded and you are good to go. Only one power source will be able to feed from Common to Load Side of the AC contactor. You can even implement a Generator off function with the disconnect.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please I am looking for a manual battery disconnect switch (not DC breaker) similar to the popular Blue Sea Systems but perhaps more robust.

The idea is to be able to flip/turn a lever and isolate an inverter or CC from the battery bank for maintenance without having to unscrew any cable from battery post or busbar

Someone is advicing me to use a large AC changeover (plenty copper) but I believe there has to be a more elegant way.

I don't want to use those red Blue Sea Systems disconnect switches because I have found them prone to failure

Trippledots:
I read somewhere that ac copper tubes for cooling can also be used for such purposes.

Btw, i asked some questions earlier. No guru talk anything.

Pls na, i de beg una