₦airaland Forum

casualobserver:
This is academic.

casualobserver:
The point is why take it to 3.65 for an extra 0.5%?

casualobserver:
Secondly, whether you go to 3.65 or 3.4, lifepo4 will eventually lose capacity due to calendar aging than whether you take it to 3.65 or not.

casualobserver:
There is a reason why if you want to make a Pylontech warranty claim they need to see your charging history. Pylontech charges to 3.55v and cuts off at 3.04v.

casualobserver:
They could just as easily said charge to 3.65v and cut off at 2.5v….but they didn’t……..toh!

casualobserver:
Plus you are also making an assumption (which isn’t always correct) that your charge controller or inverter is reading your battery voltage correctly.

Dam5reey1:
Never be charged to 3.65.. LMAO.. who is teaching you all these, US community who are not major battery maker?

According to All LFP manufacturers, they say test at 1C from 3.65 to 2.5V..

Attached is EVE.. so quoting community or video for charging parameters is irrelevant...

Start testing things yourself.

HeavenlyBang:
Temperature well below 25°C in Nigeria during the sunny time of the year, where? My panels generally sit around 40°C, for example. Yes, even after rains.

The average solar setup in this country is probably never going to make higher than 90-95% of rated output at any time in its lifespan. And if a charge controller or inverter displays a reading of over 100%, odds are, well, the reading is wrong.

ask4bk:
Scientifically, it is IMPOSSIBLE for solar to produce 100% of rated power due to power loss via heat, distance and other factors. Not ever possible.
That you are claiming over 100% power generation shows something is wrong or fishy in your marketing. Either that or your (never seen) solar charger is giving false figures (many weak brands make their device to do that).

jidobaba:
Is this still available by any chance?

ceaser:
Talking about boomboxes, this reminds me of my dear Bose Soundlink BT speaker. I have tried to find an equal to it and believe me I haven't been able to find a suitable replacement after spending fortunes on two popular names - Anker and well, Sony dissapointedly.

The Bose was highjacked by my little sister who I can't say no to.

dapsyra:
Gennex Axperts MKS 5KVA/48vDC Hybrid Inverter for sale.

Specs: See nameplate screen shot below
Condition: Clean, Used, fully functional
Reason for sale: Upgrade
Location: Abuja. Can waybill to anywhere in 9JA
Price: ₦210,000
Contact: 0-eight-0-55-three-5-six-495

omimisolar:
how do buyer test it that it’s working fine

dapsyra:
Gennex Axperts MKS 5KVA/48vDC Hybrid Inverter for sale.

Specs: See nameplate screen shot below
Condition: Clean, Used, fully functional
Reason for sale: Upgrade
Location: Abuja. Can waybill to anywhere in 9JA
Price: ₦210,000 ₦190k
Contact: 0-eight-0-55-three-5-six-495

IYGEAL:
Still up for grabs

Moneyboyz:
Oh my god that's so cool, it's just what I wanted.
I wish it's 60v cause it's for an electric motor, this will reduce the speed of I decide to go for it.
48v 20ah would be almost the same as a 60v 12ah at the end of the day.
I may be wrong.

Could you please recommend where I can get the 60v version I would compensate you.
Also are you in Lagos Cause I may consider it.

Moneyboyz:
Hello, I have an electric bike that came with 60v 12ah (12v 12ah X5) SLA battery pack, I want to increase its range but I can't find suitable custom build anywhere online (jiji, olist, nairaland etc).

I need a 60v 25/30ah lithium or lifepo4 with built in BMS, does anyone sell here, I would prefer brand new or custom built with brand new batteries.

ojeysky:
Discharge and charge makes a cycle. If a cell is rated 5k cycle, it means that the 100% capacity will be available through that cycle periods, after the 5kcycle the cell will have 80% capacity left and that can go for some more cycles. So if you are able to pull close to a call capacity then you know it's still in its first cycle life

NiyiOmoIyunade:
There are three key elements to picking a surge protection device

1) The advertised clamp voltage rating - the max voltage your protected devices will see in case of a hit

2) The advertised amount of fault current the device can safely arrest and divert

3) The actual ability of the device to deliver on the advertised promises - this is where the Midnite SPD excels - it does indeed deliver on the advertised promises - a lot of other devices are just marketing and no substance.

With surges and lightning hits, you typically only get one chance, your chosen SPD had better be able to deliver when called upon.

isangjohnson:
@ Dapsyra.
I'm still waiting for TDS Meter Price.

isangjohnson:
Anyone that has TDS Meter should let me know.

generationz:
I see. I took that picture from Google, btw. Do you mean anything set up with those tiny cells even the good ones won't last?

generationz:
Does anyone have this setup for a whole house set up?

Barezzi:
I've noticed that my West facing 4800W pv array consistently outperforms the South facing 5200W pv array.

 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLf1FdRjlaw

ojeysky:
My cells are just 6 months old and I do 60 to 80% DOD daily (occasionally 90%). The cells have not deviated from their performance the first time I bought them. Now 6 months is a very short time for the lifetime of the cells. I know folks here have used their littium chemistry for over 2 years, we've not heard of 5 years testimonials yet, cos it seem most of us started active use in the last 3 years.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
On my Pylontechs I do 3.46v per cell. Pylontech is 15s so a total of about 52v.

I am aided in this by being able to see the individual cell voltages and ensure that they all get to nearly full.

The Felicity BMS is yet a blackbox to me so I played safe with 56.8v. I may consider pushing the voltage further down 3.47 x 16s for a total of 55.5v - this does seem really low compared to manufacturers recommend 57.6v - a full 2v delta!!! Makes you wonder if their design goal is to kill off their cells fairly early

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have installed about 10 units of the so called 48v 200ah Felicity.

The technical literature actually rates the battery at 48v 7.5kwh so I dont know how how sellers managed to call it 48v 200Ah.

I also ran a discharge test at one customer location and I was able to pull out about 5kwh measured at the inverter AC out - this equates to about 5.5kwh of DC energy before the battery started to scream low battery.

If you take this point as 90% DoD then the battery is truly rated at 6kwh at 100% capacity and you can safely take out about 4.5kwh if the desire is to stay above 20% DoD for longevity - at the point point of screaming battery pack was at 49.4v or so so 3.08v per cell.

To help put all the numbers in perspective, I do not charge a Lithium battery to 100% full - our max voltage is 56.8 vs Felicity's recommended 57.6v

In summary the battery rated 48v 200ah or better yet 7.5kwh has about 4.5kwh of useable energy in it. So really a 48v 94ah battery for effective capacity. If you buy it with these facts in mind, you won't be dissappointed. If you run the battery at the discharge rates suitable for lead acid, you should have no trouble in the near term. You really must look into a LVD mechanism at around 50v so you don't overdrain the battery

For the savvy individuals, I do not believe that there is another 1kwh+ of useable energy hiding behind that extra 0.8v of charge - it would be great to interrogate the BMS of which Adrusa who has ripped one out of the battery case has refused to volunteer any details to help us know what BMS it is and crack it open.

netotse:
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a 48VDC contactor in lagos? I'm look for a cheap way to maximize/prioritize my solar use and want to use a relay-contactor combo.

I will set an under voltage relay to close when battery voltage is, at say, 50V and supply the coils of the contactor which will then close and supply AC to charge the batteries through the inverter, so as long as voltage is above 50V, relay(and therefore contactor) should be open and you are using the panels to power your house. This should mean that you don't need to be manually switching of AC power supply to maximise solar.

The relay is easy to find but the 48 VDC coil contactor is what I have been looking for, does anyone here know how I can find one?

I'm also open to suggestions on easier ways to achieve this.

BR

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please point me to the undervoltage relay you are using for this project?

Is it external/add on or already built into your equipment?

ojeysky:
Find attached chart for 12v, multiply the voltage by 2 to make 24v. The chart is also why charging lithium at high voltages is not necessary

earthrealm:
Bet the overload alarm tripped with each succesive start up of the 1hp ac?...inverter ac? And you started with acs first, then freezer then water heater.
Whats the make of your hybrid inverter.

Good you let it run for only 3mins, things may likely have gone south, if allowed to run longer..

Peterlove11:
What's the name/specs of the inverter

adrusa:
Be careful in the future. Wify once destroyed an inverter by running it overcapacity. Instead of the thing shutting down, it kept working, the wires started getting hot and suddenly there were smokes everywhere. Thank God only the inverter got incinerated.