₦airaland Forum

Oti4truth:
I just changed the power steering pump yesterday but the steering is still difficult to turn around. Please what can I do?

A few things can cause the steering to be stiff, one of which is installing a "BAD" power steering pump.

No scanning involved

https://www.buzzle.com/images/diagrams/power-steering-system/power-steering-parts.jpg

Kashif:
GAZZUZZ see.....

I am seeing but I am confused.

OP do you want to send us to obodoyibo for free to learn work?

GAZZUZZ:
I'm presently in portharcourt in a friend's place, DIGITAL CAR SOLUTIONS LTD and we decided to conduct a free diagnosis on vehicles from today 28th Sept till 2nd OCT 2015. Location is 36 Eze Gbakagbaka Avenue Woji off Woji Elelenwo road by Chelsea filling station.


For more inquiries call chucks on 08033121865.

Gazzuzz 08023251039

Bolded

predatorX:
did scan it, had these error codes P0500, P0141 and P1780

P0500 speed sensor

P0141 o2 sensor under the car

P1780 park neutral switch malfunction

The p500 looks like the culprit, but you mentioned the odometer going off too, so I guess it is a little more complicated.

There's an intermittent problem, like a partial contact, could be ground or 5v that causes th e problem you mentioned.

I can't give you a straight forward answer. What's your location?

obitee69:
How much does the cylinder cost? Also will the engine back to normal? Skeletal will be pricy

08023251039

obitee69:
Hey folks. I'm back again. My camry 2007 has been running fine after I changed thhe head gasket but I noticed that it overheats after sometime.
Now my mech says It's that I need a new Cylinder head/engine block. I want to take my car to another mechanic for confirmation. What do u tink guys? He suggested I buy a skeletal engine without alternator, kick start, radiator etc
I just changed my radiator to double cell still same. It overheats after I speed for like 30mins on the highway. Please your responses are welcome.

Get a new head cylinder (toks) I'm sure I have one for sale.


Actually a whole engine (skeletal) is a better option.

dokilolo:
I drive a 2003 Toyota Camry v6.noticed the top radiator hose was leaking 4 days ago nd I took it 2 my mechanic who bought a tokunbo hose nd replaced d bad 1.
problem is since dt time my Camry has come close 2 overheating about 4 times....usually I notice vapor coming 4rm engine area 4rm coolant boiling onto engine components. nd wen dis happens, d reservoir tank is usually almost full.
I have checked d 2 hoses, dy r both hot meaning thermostat is opening. I have filled wit coolant about 3 times only 4 d episode to occur again.
my fans r nt connected directly nd I dd a test which confirms dy com on intermittently wen I idle nd wen engine is hot.
I have already changed radiator cap cos I noticed d rubber on d old 1 is worn bt it still appears lik d problem is there.
prior to this, my car runs fine no overheating, temp mark gets 2 half mark after som minutes of driving. this only started after changing d too radiator hose.
I read online dt I might av air in d system nd I need 2 burp d system. suggestions include opening d radiator cap, running d engine nd increasing car heat den pushing d RPM to 3000+ a couple of times 2 get rid of d air.
my mechanic is saying air shld find its way out on its own nd his pointing fingers at water pump.I dnt bliv its water pump cos everything was fine b4 d hose change.
I need gurus advice before going ahead wit d burping or any intervention.
cc
gazzuzz
siena
kingsreign
kashif
ikenna


sorry 4 d long essay

Pressure cap.

[img]http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSo5cG3XXcSieG27G3pyHPL_H6ZPG87zdTOqnvJabeRf0Y56hc5[/img]

chyka2011:
Do you have the Yaw rate sensor? If yes, how much?

Re calibrate it, never seen one go bad.

Isiri:
Good day Boss. I just bought Nija used CHEVROLET SPARK LS MANUAL 2010. The car is okay but battery is weak. can u pls recommend a good battery I can buy to replace the weak one. And other maintenance oil and servicing to keep the car in good shape regular.. any advice is welcome ..I don't know anything about car. so I will be very glad if u can advice and enlight me more on how to keep it in shape regularly. Thanks

Varta is a good brand.

Kashif:
I did not see any of them with vacuum test stand. None even has a torque wrench to start with. Those guys do not have the tools or basic training. They don't know there are clutch/brake/band apply charts. You cannot troubleshoot without them, in case of repairs. There are torque and clearance specs. Do they have them? Can they measure them? The answer is no.

A Rebuilder in Ibadan asked to be paid 120k to repair my transmission. No problem, but when asked for warranty, he went blank. Their proficiency lies in their ability to remove transmission parts from the back, mix them all together and then couple. Once they are able to do that, they are gurus.

One of them that is respected told me how a man that came from the US with a new transmission was directed to him. He said the man was shocked to realise he doesn't have air compressor, despite all the hype. They are trying, given their very limited tools and training. I still wonder how they get some transmissions back on the road.

Happy you know they are trying. Mechanics have been fixing fuel pressure related issues without a fuel pressure tester, what they do is dive into the job and replace fuel pump. Same thing they would have done if given the access to gear box rebuild kits, without testing they would just replace "most" parts, and pray for a good outcome.

predatorX:
oga Gazzuzzzzzz, i dey hail thee for thy great works and thy testimonies of healed vehicles.

i have this issue with my camry tiny light 98.

When i drive for long, like 30minutes or 7kilometers thereabout, the gear starts slipping and when that happens, it shuts down the SPEEDOMETER and ODOMETER. then after another 30minutes in the traffic the ODOMETER and SPEEDOMETER comes back on automatically and the gear stops slipping.

In summary, whenever the ODOmeter and SPEEDOmeter goes offline the gear slips especially from 1st changing to 2nd gear.

what do you think sire!!

Electrical issue. Scan vehicle.

dandollar1:
yes, I have a scanner. The code I got was P2138. I have two throttle body, complete with the TPS which I bought sometime last year when I had this issue. The problem resurfaced a short while after I changed the TPS. I had to revert to the one I replaced. That's what I have been using till now, and that's why I'm thinking it's the socket that might be the culprit.

Please, does the 2007 Honda accord have accelerator pedal position sensor, APS on the accelerator pedal, or APS=TPS?

This is what the code refers to, the one in red.

[img]http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTbu-ZZrg0pveyUMDuX1FkG7WrtndyJwotxC3J142vNnv4gnkAX[/img]

dandollar1:
the socket and the wires attached to it. I have a new TPS, I am thinking the issue might be from the wires/socket. I stay in Bonny island, so I have almost no access to good mechanics/car electrician. I want to see if I can direct a mechanic/car electrician to change these parts for me. Can I get from you?

I want to belive your diagnosis is poor, and the socket is unnecessary. I'm sure there's a scanner where you are.

fanex:
Not when your engine is replaced or repaired with new parts.

its a service we offer. we dont get personally involved.

Still a cheat.

fanex:
NO STRESS, WE COME TO YOU* WE ARE FULLY MOBILE

 ENGINE MANAGEMENT LIGHTS
 ABS LIGHTS
 AIR BAG LIGHTS
 TRANSMISSION FAULTS
 ELECTRIC ROOF FAULTS
 INJECTOR FAULTS
 FUEL SENSORS
 MAF SENSORS
 COOLANT SENSORS
 IMMOBILISER FAULTS
 ODOMETRE CORRETION (soon)

***INSTANT RESULT PRINTOUT***

SCAN IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT

Call Mr Tunde

08088997344, 08146307082


NO MORE MECHANIC CHEAT DO IT YOURSELF FOR JUST N5000

The bolded is a cheat.

dandollar1:
luvinhubby, Please how can I get this socket and wire that fits into the TPS for a 2007 Honda accord?

Just the socket? Cause you can only get a stripped version from an engine.

08023251039.

ryanfletcher:
BTW is there no specialized mechanic here to condidently give an outline solution to the problems being posted ,not just the check your wire and a check your shaft...there should be a confident recommendation like " it should be thebrainbox,replace it and bla bla bla".....
lol

Another misfire.

Kazeem sues spanner producers for poor performance.

KolaShangOne:
It was way too much and made the car 'drag'. So he reduced the quantity. Didn't change it.

@Gazzuzz Thanks. But couldn't that have been picked up by the scanner? Because it was after d scan didn't reveal gear / engine problems I decided to complete payment.

@luvinhubby how much would that cost?

A scanner would hardly pic a slipping friction plate.

You didn't tell me about the bolded, I would have charge you an extra fee for inspecting the vehicle conducted extra tests (especially transmission) it's easy to spot a slipping transmission even in city driving.

mexxy1:
1. dbeshplace says:
It never ceases to amaze me how often folks question oil and fuel grades that are specified in the owner's manual. If it says run Regular, they think it will last longer if they run higher octane, after all it's 'premium' it must be better. If it says run premium, well, the computer will retard the spark (and reduce engine efficiency in a high compression engine) and I can run cheaper regular. I find it almost as amazing as those who don't read the manual at all.
You can say using one weight of oil is better for your car than what the manual says that's a personal decision, but don't try to generalize that for every car out there. Without conducting tests over a long time, on every model out, there is no way anyone can know that.


2. Posted on Sep 16, 2010 4:55:01 PM PDT
James H. Agans says:
at 64 years old, and an avid mechanic I have been around for a while, and have seen the insides of a few motors. To that end I make the following statements. If you buy your car new, do your first oil change at around 1500 miles. After that you can change the oil at about every 5000 miles. Always use the weight recommended by the manufacturer. My father swore by Valvoline, I use Castrol GTX, but most oils on the market are very acceptable. I have been using Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive since I was a young man at the direction of an old seer and I swear by the stuff. This may not be necessary, unless you drive short distances a lot, and produce a lot of sludge as a result of never getting your engine up to temperature.

I do not buy the BS about changing your oil every 3K miles, unless you are running a turbo, or super charger, or unless you are running in the desert.

The key is to be consistent. Change the oil at the manufacturer recommended intervals, (except for the first)use the manufacturer recommended weight, and use good oil, and high quality filters not the stuff you get at the drive through places, and your engine will last a long long time.


Those are two replies from the same forum. The opinions shared there are personal opinions and there is no empirical evidence stated there neither is there a general consensus on the advantages or disadvantages of using any of the oil grades above the other. However, I can deduce from the arguments that 5W 20 conserves fuel and gives better mpg while 5W 30 gives better engine protection 'cos it is thicker but poor mpg. These opinions vary amongst different individuals.
From the opinions there, I believe I am right to stick to the manufacturer's recommendation.
I'm still reading through.

Better engine protection VS fuel conservation, that's the summary.

I change a lot of engines every month, and one thing in common with most engine failures was the fact that they had the right oil grade (5W20) but we're hitting speeds as high as 180km/hr on the highways before the failure.

Mile master sold on konga or jumia is not full synthetic, it's a blend, meaning it's semi-synthetic which is most likely a 30-70per mix(30per full synthetic 70 mineral). I drain a lot of oil every day and iv seen the color and the base of the drain pan after the oil is turned out, trust me engine protection is your best choice if you drive aggressively and have high engine mileage.

Read a few reviews here

https://www.nairaland.com/1974986/used-milemaster-5w-30-oil-before

KolaShangOne:
Good morning people.. This thought has kept me awake.. I

I bought a Honda EOD '03 last week and I duly took the car for a scan at @Gazzuzz's workshop and I got codes (P0113, P0135, P0141, P0117, p 0118, p2195). I also got a list of things to change n all..

Yesterday, I was returning to base (pending d time I will get cash for the repairs) and was driving on the Lagos - Ibadan expressway. I noticed that the car SLIPS. Once I drive for about 15-20mins, the car throttle suddenly fails. The car revs but there's no increase in speed. If I pump the throttle, the car suddenly jerks, moves forward a bit, the brakes harden and it stops.

I have to open the bonnet, wait another 15mins for it to cool before driving another 15-20mins. It was a hellish journey.

My experienced Uncle said the gear is bad and needs replacing. That will be pocket draining. I need another angle.

Before I left for the journey, I gave a local guy the keys while I went to do something else. (That's a mistake not to be present). He told me he drained Transmission fluid because it was too much.

Sorry there's no angle to it, you need a new gearbox.

deathwing:
Lol. Someone just told me about the rear light thing. I have no idea how that could have come about.

I got the car about two months ago. It's my first car, and I used it to learn how drive. My teachers decided I couldn't burn the clutch because I picked up clutch control pretty quickly. I don't stress the car, I only mostly drive to and from work... Ten minutes away from home.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The clutch thing and rear light issue are the only problems right now. I recently fixed the disconnected vacuum pipe that a mechanic left open while fixing speakers in the door, so I'm not a total noob to the workings of a car.

Oh well... Guess I'll just get myself a new clutch plate tomorrow

For the clutch to be burnt after 2months of you driving it says a lot about your driving skills. You need to learn how to drive a manual vehicle.

basisop:
Please the brake of my RX300 failed on Tuesday, my mechanic changed the master, I drove it for 30minutes, it failed again. On both incidents I hit cars on the road.

The ABS light is on the dashboard. Please how do I fix this issue. Any good mechanic in PH?

Digital Carsolutions Ltd. 36 Eze Gbakagbaka Avenue Woji off Woji Elelenwo road by Chelsea filling station.

Call chuks 07017081067

Amantuegbe:
Dear lexus users, i am having challenge with my gearbox. I recently replaced the gearbox of my Lexus Rx350, 2007 model, but on driving home from the mechanic workshop i realised that the vehicle wasn't moving freely. I tried forcing it to accelerate, but it was moving too slowly. After awhile it stopped moving, so i stepped out to check what was the problem and realised that the gearbox was leaking profusely. The entire ATF (Type IV) was on the ground. I was later informed that the gearbox was bad and would require a replacement. I took it back to the gearbox seller and i was required to add additional money for a replacement. After the replacement the seller insisted that they would prefer their expert to work on it or else they will not be liable for another damage to the gearbox. I agreed and allowed their mechanic to come-around and fix the gearbox. After fixing, we then tried to test the vehicle, i realised that after driving for about 5 minutes, i was having difficulty in accelerating so i sensed that the gearbox was still having a similar problem as earlier. I informed the mechanic and parked the car immediately. We realised that the gearbox was graduallly leaking, the mechanic decided to apply four (4) minutes glue to stop the leakage. Thereafter we tried driving it, but it was still moving slowly. We stopped again and checked, it was still leaking but not that serious, just drops. We checked the gauge and it was ok. So he informed me that the gearbox requires another replacement. The mechanic later left, and i tried taking it home, but it finally stopped moving along the way except for the reverse. I managed to drive home with the reverse in the night. The reverse is perfectly working. But the drives only work when the car engines cools down. That is it works for like 5-7 minutes, then it stops working. I will like to know what is the problem, is it a faulty gearbox or wrong fixing of the gearbox? Thanks.

When that gear gets bad fixing it is not an easy task. If you search for kashif on cartalk he might sell you a tested gearbox

Realone018:
Hello Lexus users. I am driving a Lexus ES300 2003 model. I acquired like 2 months ago, I changed the front brake pads few days after driving it. Everything was fine then. Few weeks later, I noticed some changes when pressing the brake. I went to Elegun's shop (my mechanic). He checked the brake pads, said everything was fine with the brake pads but something might be wrong. He built the four brake pads, after few hours it worked perfectly and few days back to normal. I had to change the back brake pads and rebuild them again and still facing the same problem. Can anybody please help me out?

Original brake pads for your vehicle are between 12-18k

Change in diagnosis.


Driver misfire.

M P C says:
In a since the non W# of say 30 or 40 in the oil weight # is rated at a oil temp. of 100c or 212F. If you look at your owners manual, since that is the theme that is running through these threads on this subject, you will most likely find that your engine should run a heavier weign oil in a Hi atmospheric temp, Hi load conditions, such as heavy stop and go, trailer hauling, and hot footing the vehicle as examples.

That long sentence being said, vehicle builders must meet ever stricter regs. and average fleet MPG #'s and on and on. Even catalytic converters come into play with add pack chemicals.

1/10 of a MPG average is important to a automotive builders and if a oil will help there average then they will use it. Oil is one of the tools for them to be able to still "have room to build high performance engines instead of all the same HP and MPG ratings among other reasons. It gets complicated and they have engineers for all that,not me.

In nearly every engine stock fill, the oil is a compromise because of MPG and Cafe #'s (I THINK THAT IS THE ABBREVIATION) numbers the Govt. throws in the mix.

All that said in an "unconvincing opinion" maybe, there is a lot of different oils out there that will work in your engine under most conditions. There are also oils that will work in your engine when it is operating outside the normal parameters (very hot/very cold/heavy loads). The manufacturer did not build your vehicle for every condition,they build them to meet demands of the majority of drivers,the majority of conditions, with a average considered life/ milage engineered into the vehicle, at a certain profit to please mgt and stock holders,etc.
You can, through looking at fact, gaining knowledge of oils and engines and other mecanical/electrical/paint etc., make your vehicle last longer/run better/look better if you want too. It will probably take more money than the average driver spends and will take more time to gain the knowledge, (Book, Forums,experts,and opinions(with a grain of salt) to be like most of the people who visit these sites, seeking better than the "average ".
To get back to your origonal question, if you switch from 5w20 to 5w30 in normal conditions, lets say where the oil is tested at 100C/212F then your engine will probably operate just fine and you will lose a little gas milage due to paracitic losses. If your engine is operated in Hi temp/Hi Load conditions and the oil runs above the test temp of 100c/212F you will be better served with the 5w30. If on the other hand, if the engine is run in sub freezing weather, ( I do not know what your owners manual says about the exact cold temp.) then you would probably be better served with the 5w 20 or maybe even a lighter oil, but you did not ask about that.

In my opinion, you would even be better served by a synthetic oil in the "makers" say 5w20 recomendation in the owners manual. The reason is this, weight for weight, in almost all cases, if not all cases, a synthetic oil will "stay true" to it's weight or weight range, in a larger temperature range than conventional oil. That is fact, proven over and over in independent tests and by nearly all synthetic and conventional oil makers. I have not found a oil analysis company yet that would not say the same general statment. That is just one of the reasons most oil makers now offer both types of oil.
Profit too.
It is fact too, after analysis that most,not all, syn. oil has a higher TBN than conventional mile to mile and month to month OCI. That is just one of the tests, run on oil that is important when considering the time to change oil.

Thats my 10cents on the W# ##.

Read more

http://www.amazon.com/forum/automotive?cdForum=Fx3ETDAOXJ5AT3S&cdThread=Tx18AJQ8JSBFGPK

deathwing:
MY 1.8 VW Golf 3 can't seem to accelerate past 40km/h. The issue started this morning on my way to work. Any ideas? Changing into 2nd and 3rd gear is accompanied by a slight shudder. The 'idle' RPM is slightly lower.

Also just noticed switching on the AC tell a lot on the engine as the rpm reduces I'm in traffic now and afraid the car will stall

Engine misfire.

obitee69:
My car just came out today! Yippie! I changed thhe headgasket. The heat didn't get to d valves or rings. It labour intensive and took 2days. I had to drain my oil and change it. I replaced my spark plugs too cos water entered them, smoothened the cylinder heads too. Thanks for ur advice cos with all your suggestions I was able to speak up and challenge the mechs with confidence. Cheers my eyes on the dashboard from now on!

Happy for you.

First thing run a scan again.

angels09:
You just bought a disaster in waiting

Tell your story of peugeot abuse, let's hear.

whyteboyz03:
Gazzuzzz, I'd like to meet u in person . is it possible on 1st Oct at ur eze gbakagbaka place?

Can't say for now, work is really demanding in lagos.