₦airaland Forum

JUO:
MIDNITE CLASSIC 150 MPPT, 150V 96A 300k
TriStar TS-MPPT-60 Charge Controller 280k
Flex max 80a fangpusun 170k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 145k
50a-12/24v 45k. 50k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 100k.
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 120k
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 72k
30a-12/24v 35k. 38k
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 50k
epever 30a 12/24v 46k
epever 40a 12/24v 60k
epever 60a 12/24/36/48v 140k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 45K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 7k din rail/wall mount
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 25k
080-987-337-09
Special discount for known installers

Dam5reey:
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 20k

My wish from the list

JUO:
MIDNITE CLASSIC 150 MPPT, 150V 96A 300k
TriStar TS-MPPT-60 Charge Controller 280k
Flex max 80a fangpusun 170k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 145k
50a-12/24v 45k. 50k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 100k.
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 120k
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 72k
30a-12/24v 35k. 38k
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 50k
epever 30a 12/24v 46k
epever 40a 12/24v 60k
epever 60a 12/24/36/48v 140k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 45K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 7k din rail/wall mount
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 25k
080-987-337-09
Special discount for known installers

earthrealm:
ur bank being a 12v 500ah, needs an inverter tht can output 50amps charging current at 12v to prevent sulphation and premature battery death, am sure none of the inverters listed by @niyi can output such a high charging current. only american and german inverters are capable of such feats at 12v, magnum, schneider etc....

your best bet is either getting such high end inverters or going solar and slap on a 60amp cc minimum, 70amp even better..and enough panels to generate >50amps.
thats the big heartache that 12v setup brings....its best avoided by going for 48v, 24v etc

bigrovar:
I got tired of preaching this. It does help to take a chill pill on the massive upgrades and consider optimization of loads for efficiency. The less power you use. The more what you generate will cover. When you understand peukert effect on battery charge and discharge rate, the impact of depth of discharge on life span of a battery and the need to ensure your battle receive a daily cycle to 100% state of charge.. all this point to 1 thing. ensure that every 100w you generate for you system is most optimally utilised. That 100w can power a 42 Inch TV at moderate screen settings, 2 electric fans and 6 5w light bulbs if you know what you doing. 2018 is Year 3 of doing renewable. It means 3 years of 2 220AH batteries providing 24/7 power to a household and never once the battery gone below 45% depth of discharge not once in 3 years has the battery gone a day without getting fully charged. This is what it means to have a system designed for maximum efficiency.

pulivah:
Good morning to you all and happy celebrations.

Please welcome me, I am a new member here.

Permit me to ask a few questions:

I have been using Chinese GEL batteries for sometime now; and I just got me two sets of FULLRIVER AGM 100AH batteries.

But I noticed something. The FULLRIVER batteries take more time to charge than the Chinese batteries even on the same solar array.

I am confused. Why is this?

Then when it finally got full, I noticed that the resting voltage is at 13.0V; while the Chinese one stays at 13.1 rest.

Is 13.0V a normal rest voltage for a fully charged AGM battery?

Finally, I used the AGM batteries on the same load as the Chinese ones and this battery refused to die.

Or perhaps, it hasn't calibrated well enough?

After three hours thirty minutes, it went to 12.5V and I stopped, it bounced back to 12.7V

The Chinese ones on the same load and time, would have gone to about 12.3V thereabouts.

Somebody, please come to my rescue because I am thinking the AGM battery is bad; especially as it takes more time to charge

and rests at 13.0V

Thank you.

JUO
kiekie1
makavele
Damreey5
zeestone99
DMerciful1

olagunju2000:
Thanks for asking. I installed the PT-100 but couldn't access the logged data to compare the performance. I bought ME-ARC50 monitor but unknowingly, it requires that i install Magnum inverter to use the monitor. The monitor does not work on standalone PT-100.

The maximum i have noticed on the real time production is about 2200w, similar to my old controller. However, i want to replace my cable with tiny flex these coming days. I will provide update then.

JUO:
Flex max 80a fangpusun 170k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 145k
50a-12/24v 45k. 50k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 100k.
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 120k
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 72k
30a-12/24v 35k. 38k
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 50k
epever 30a 12/24v 46k
epever 40a 12/24v 60k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 45K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 6k din rail/wall mount
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 25k
080-987-337-09

NiyiOmoIyunade:
House I need help. I have a diagnostics lab I support where the incoming voltage from the mains is routinely between 240v and 250v (the shopping complex has a dedicated and lightly loaded transformer).

Now we all know lab equipment generally have low overvoltage tolerance so the equipment gets hot or hums at 240v.

How can I reliably step down 240v to say 210 - 220v max? Most stabilizers I know will simply pass through 240v without stepping it down at all.

Right now the lab is getting by by isolating the mains (putting changeover in neutral) when they want to run the equipment and running off either inverter at 230v output or Gen at 217 - 222v output

Solutions and ideas please - if you know any stabilisers or other equipment that can cap output voltage at 220v I would appreciate it.

bigrovar:
This assumption is wrong in theory and in practise. Electricity flows from high potential to low potential.

Scenario 1 If say your PV is producing 1000w and your load is using 1200w, 1000w goes from your CC to your load, and the reminder 200w is taken from the battery.

Scenario 2 If your battery is full and your PV can potentially produce 1000w and your load is 1000w, the load from the PV goes straight to the inverter (Your battery is completely ignored.)

Scenario 3 If your PV can potentially produce 1000w and your load is using 500w then 500w goes from PV to load and unused 500wh would become potentials.

Scenario 4 if your battery is low and your PV is producing 800w but your load is using 800w,all 800w produced by the PV goes to the load. Non is left for the battery.

Remember like I said, electricity moves from high potential to low potential.. The lowest potential in all the above scenario is the load, not the battery. The battery always has a higher potential than the load, The battery charger in this case the PV/CC has the highest potential (so long as we are using a proper charger with the right voltage)

Its just against physics for a battery to draw electricity more than the load. The above is the theory.

For the practical, I have a Victron Battery Monitor BMV 700 the BMV comes with a current shunt which is connected to negative of the battery, inverter DC input negative cable and Controller dc output negative cable. The positive cable of the BVM connects to the battery.

The BMV monitors currents going into and out of the battery from the Inverter and CC. The BMV display shows gross net input and output to the battery hence
1 if my charge controller shows it is producing 24A and my load is 10A, the victron battery monitor shows 14A going into the battery. and this is confirmed by the battery voltage.

If I turn off the 10A load, I see the BMV showing 24A going into the battery. If I turn off the CC, the BMV will show -10A being drawn from the battery.

If my load is say 24A and CC is pulling 20A, the BMV shows -4A leaving the battery.

This idea that all power from the cc first goes to the battery and the load pulls it from the battery is false and against the principle of how electricity works. when I have time over the weekend I will demonstrate the truth of this.

Flex max 80a fangpusun 165k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 145k
50a-12/24v 45k. 50k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 100k.
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 120k
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 72k
30a-12/24v 35k.
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
MT50-13k
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 50k
epever 30a 12/24v 45k
epever 40a 12/24v 57k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 45K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 6k din rail/wall mount
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, LIGHT, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 25k
MidNite Solar Classic 150 MPPT Charge Controller-96a-Hybrid. used for 2 months available
080-987-337-09

JUO:
Flex max 80a fangpusun 155k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 135k
50a-12/24v 45k. 45k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 100k.
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 120k
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 72k
30a-12/24v 35k. 32k
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 46k
epever 30a 12/24v 43k
epever 40a 12/24v 53k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 42K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 6k din rail/wall mount
DC/AC CEILING FAN 56' 12V/30W, REGULATOR, REMOTE CONTROL INCLUDED 25k
080-987-337-09

pranil:
Just finished putting in service BYD Pro 10 KWh 48 Volts - took 90 minutes to charge from 50 % to 100 % ( was charging at 70 amps)
Now sitting idle. will do a load test tomorrow but the battery is reporting 130 amps rating at 30 DEG which is not bad as my inverter is rated only for 5 KW .

Integrated nicely with my Victron inverter and CCGX with canbus communication and safety contactors

still a lot of cleanups to do so other photos will follow later-

liquidcrystal73:
Battery finally floated around 2.21pm

220W draw and still floating


Test run passed!!!

Kiekie, thumbs up! You too much !!!

earthrealm:
HMMMM that implies undersizing the array has some benefits.
on the manual epsolar states the 60amp cc can handle 1600w @ 24v, i have 1500w panels, and the max instantenous harvest i hv seen is 1290w & 43amps...on a super hot/sunny day, and have been toying with adding an additional 500w panel, so factoring in losses and all..i wud still be within the 1600w range,
as e be so..may hv to pause a bit

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Bros you were only lucky that your PV array at ~1500w was well within the current clamp safe limits of your EP Solar or else the negative cable disconnection from its crimp happened during the low sunlight hours.

Disconnect the CC from battery while your array is pushing like 3000w through and you will surely release the magic smoke

This speaks to something I had mentioned earlier - CC fault tolerance is much reduced with large or oversized arrays - the only MorningStar CC I ever managed to brick blew up when the 100a DC breaker between the battery and CC suddenly tripped while the CC was putting 3000w/~54amps * 56volts into my batteries around 2pm - I had a 4.5kw PV array at the time.

From that day forward, I use only manual disconnects or heavily overrated fuse blocks between CC and battery - it was a truly expensive lesson at ~250k replacement cost for a new 60a Morningstar CC.

All said you should reconsider your crimping method/tools - it is very unusual for a well made crimp to loosen and disconnect from the cable.

JUO:
Flex max 80a fangpusun 165k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 145k
50a-12/24v 45k. 60k with remote
30a-12/24v 35k. 47k with remote
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 46k
epever 30a 12/24v 43k
epever 40a 12/24v 56k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 42K
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 6k din rail/wall mount
Midnite Classic 96a 12-72v hybrid 300k
MidNite Solar MNSPD-300-DC 45k
080-987-337-09
First come first served

Barezzi:
Nice submission, the part quoted jumped at me.

Part of my setup is designed to disconnect/reconnect at a certain voltage level. While the remaining part is permanently off grid designed to cycle at about 65% soc.

I believe there are merits to designing one's system around LVD, especially when you want to maximise self consumption.

Saipro:


Don't scare them off bro. Give 'em 18 months (assuming regular VRLA types).

dsunmade:
Please, is this a general statement or applicable only to the Solar off-grid setup?

OmichaelO:
yes boss. I have
no luck !

Acidosis:
Tinubu's CONSAT made so much noise and ended up as CRAP.

I'll remain neutral until I lay my hands on one kwese decoder. I must say however that I'm impressed at the number of HD channels up there!

The human or animal behind DSTV's billing and pricing department cannot escape hell fire. At N6,300 monthly, I only get to see 1 HD channel (movie) and this channel is almost useless as they're specialist in showing only ancient Sylvester Stallone and Jackie Chan movies.