Good day Bros. Abeg I have this same thing bypassed in my spider, bought this car 11months ago as a Nigerian used. I tried to revert it the normal way but mechanic advised i shud leave it that way to avoid issues. And I dey fear 13pin wahala. Gear shows torque converter code.
Kashif: So my brother called me to say that his Camry transmission was having issues - erratic shifts, bla bla bla. Mechanic was saying there's something they needed to bring out from the gear and wash (strainer).
Well, after a few questions, I understood the main issue the gear had was consistently high shift point when hot. I explained that high shift point in a modern auto has nothing to do with the gear itself. It has to be external.
I asked if any recent work was done on the car and he said yes - the radiator was replaced. Then I received a shocker: "my mechanic said it is wrong to connect the gear hose to the radiator, so he bypassed it". I asked him to repeat that again in case I misheard, and he did. I asked what the mechanic did with the hose, he said it was connected back to the gear! So what happened to the radiator atf ports? He didn't know.
The mechanic sounded so convincing that after I told my brother his mechanic was wrong, he initially said he would look for a similar car to compare. . You can imagine these mechanics!
After the correction was made and atf topped up, the gear came back to normal. I wonder how he came about that in the first place.
I remember many years ago (in the days of Peugeot 504 Station wagon) when I took our vehicle to the mechanic to complain about a slight hammar noise at the front when brakes were applied. When I came back to pick the car and started driving off, I applied brakes and noticed it was barely effective. I got down to complain; that was when I noticed the dimwit applied grease on the front rotors!
Some 'mechanics' have no business with screwdrivers!
Good day bro... Do u mean this.. it has been like this since I bought the car 11months ago. Mechanic advised I leave it that way. Since I don't really know the history of the car.
Kashif: So my brother called me to say that his Camry transmission was having issues - erratic shifts, bla bla bla. Mechanic was saying there's something they needed to bring out from the gear and wash (strainer).
Well, after a few questions, I understood the main issue the gear had was consistently high shift point when hot. I explained that high shift point in a modern auto has nothing to do with the gear itself. It has to be external.
I asked if any recent work was done on the car and he said yes - the radiator was replaced. Then I received a shocker: "my mechanic said it is wrong to connect the gear hose to the radiator, so he bypassed it". I asked him to repeat that again in case I misheard, and he did. I asked what the mechanic did with the hose, he said it was connected back to the gear! So what happened to the radiator atf ports? He didn't know.
The mechanic sounded so convincing that after I told my brother his mechanic was wrong, he initially said he would look for a similar car to compare. . You can imagine these mechanics!
After the correction was made and atf topped up, the gear came back to normal. I wonder how he came about that in the first place.
I remember many years ago (in the days of Peugeot 504 Station wagon) when I took our vehicle to the mechanic to complain about a slight hammar noise at the front when brakes were applied. When I came back to pick the car and started driving off, I applied brakes and noticed it was barely effective. I got down to complain; that was when I noticed the dimwit applied grease on the front rotors!
Some 'mechanics' have no business with screwdrivers!
GAZZUZZ: Driver calls in, states vehicle RPM is @ 1.7rpm steady and he's unable to drive the car. I tell him to take out the battery and leave it for a few minutes and try again.
trys it again same thing.
Driver scans vehicle, scan reveals P2122 and P2127 the codes are permanent codes.
it's a weekend and I am very busy so I ask him to find a way to move car down to the workshop from ajah (law sch).
he finds a way (Don't know how he did it) and sat morning car is in front of workshop.
I decide to do a quick 15min assessment of the associated symptoms
Clear codes, but re-scan and same codes pop up again. Meaning code is permanent.
So I take out the Throttle pedal and Inspect the potentiometer, I was hoping to find fluids or corrosion or a damaged contact inside. (Sorry no pics for that), found nothing.
put it back together, adjusted the contacts a hoped it would start working again (fluke things ) same thing, no response from accelerator pedal with engine running.
My 15mins was up, I had a wedding to attend, so I abandoned it and headed home.
Church wedding over, sitting in reception, but my mind is still on the nissan. I receive a call about a client who wants to pick up his vehicle, but they can't find the keys, I tap my pocket and the keys are with me. leaving Mrs Gazzuzz in reception I head back to workshop (5mins drive) drop off key, and did another 15min check on nissan again. This time live scan, checked input voltage when pedal depressed, readings varied according to pedal positions (meaning pedal was fine)
But output readings on throttle body when pedal depressed were static. So I just assumed a faulty Engine ecu
Next plan was to find someone who had conquered this error and find out how it was conquered.
Placed an Sms to my Oga patapata of Nissan, I was very vague in my explanation but His response was "you might have to change the unit"
next I called my Oga in Nnewi he said same thing, that he just solved one same way.
I was having hope small small... next thing phone rings..... Its the Mrs.
I abandoned ship again. Went back to reception and my people were ready to go. On my way home, I called another Oga in PH, he said it's a wiring problem check harness, said he had seen similar issue and it was a wiring problem.
my head is now full.
5:46pm I message Uncle Autoelectng gave him a brief description of the problem, and asked if he had experienced same type of issue he said yes, but it was a transmission related fault. He promised to get back to me. ill tell you one thing about Uncle, he likes all the info. Model year, engine type, production year, transmission type, etc, last last I sent him the vin and messages were quiet for a while.
In the morning 5am I opened my messages and saw a video link Autoelectng sent, it was not in English, but I understood "mechanic" (it's a universal language)
when this happens, the app sensor on the pedal gives off a higher than usual resistance @ idle. The engine ecu has set parameters for the operation of the throttle pedal sensor, and any slight deviation from parameters throws a circuit code and disables the function of the pedal (That's why we love toyota ).
Looking closely at the pic above you will notice a large hole with no rubber stud top left and pedal resting on base (you need to understand "mechanic"
First plan was to test an see if this would work.
Got a good old used slippers (saving technicians since 1801)
Started car and pedal worked perfectly, idle back to normal.
So I say to my self, how will I ensure this 1801 saver remains in place without falling? Or should I just re-design the pedal?
I vex and brought out my welding machine and a 10mm nut, welded it to the base of the pedal and installed a screwed a 10mm bolt in place to allow pedal rest on bolt this was more like killing an Ant with a sledge hammer.
Looked good and firm, tested it and it worked, but long term, metal to metal contact without any lubrication will cause a small dent that will grow, it might take several years, but it would happen.
So I decided to use the rubber stud, and place it inside the 10mm bolt, it was a very firm fit, I had to pull really hard and finally it sat perfect, not requiring glue to hold it in place (but I sha put o!)
Good news for your bad day. I can help you process the tint permit for your car. I can also help get you the medical clearance for the permit which is equally important.
1.7 is quiet high, considering the state of this car.
Car painting 150k
AC not effective might boil down to changing ac components, from compressor to condenser, to evaporator to expansion valve, to ensure it works perfect. That's another 150k.
Shi shi talent e no get. E dey find people to scam. Becos e no say, as e mention betting, men go show interest.
Give us 12games here of both teams to get a throw in, in 5mins. make we accumulate am, run am for 22bet. Odds usually above 1.8odds. If e play we go give you 50% since u hate betting
My broda. I struggled with this until I lost 250k. I was an addict of 1xbet apple of Fortune.
What I did was, I went to a mechanic village to work my car, called a random smally mechanic that I don't know before, and changed my phone number I use to login to 1xbet to his own.
Then I had to forgo the sim card linked to my bank account. Which is actually my main line, and bought a new sim. So that I won't get otp.
Gambling won't make u Rich
Failure44: I want to stop, I just lost 10k out of 15k of my allowance.
I'm deeply depressed
Pls how do I stop?? I'm just 18 years and shouldn't be harboring these thoughts.
Been battling this problem for 6days now and mechanics have tried all they know both kazzeem and scan tool oyibo still nothing. Something told me to drive the car without air filter, and car was running so smooth. I just removed the filter, washed it with detergent. And allowed it to dry. Fixed it this morning and am all smiles. No more jerking on acceleration, no more mad fuel consumption. Dropping it here for anyone that will face same in future
hapiboi: My toyota camry 2000's engine runs smoothly in idle mode, but while driving with little acceleration, it decelerates and picks by it self. This prompts me to press the accelerator pedal well but the acceleration does not the usually expected speed. The car also brings out dark fumes from the exhaust. I have servised the injector nozzles, blew the air flowmeter, even changed the airflowmeter sensor with no appreciable difference. Pls any clue to what could be happening to my car. Engineers in da house helpppppp!!!!!!
Good morning boss. My issue is this, my car is a 2008 Camry. The AC cools very well when idle,and looses coldness as i accelerate, the more i accelerate the more it looses coldness. It chills on a hot day at idle or low speed.
The only work done on it was replacing a hose that gave away and refilling the system with lubocool gas
RealSleek: Hello guys, my name akintunde aka realsleek, i am an auto. Air conditioning specialist running an outfit called SUBZERO ,that caters to all kind of AC issues from diagnosis, installation, repairs and sales of Spare parts ..based in ibadan. Please feel free to discuss any AC issues and i will do my best to give answers.. thanks
Car Talk / Re: Killer Mechanics by OGjason: 4:57pm On Jan 31, 2022 
. You can imagine these mechanics! 
leaving Mrs Gazzuzz in reception I head back to workshop (5mins drive) drop off key, and did another 15min check on nissan again. This time live scan, checked input voltage when pedal depressed, readings varied according to pedal positions (meaning pedal was fine)
have to run home 