Ojeysky's Posts
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olaolu11:How much did you get this? And reference |
adrusa:It's Ali o https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dTaZW9S |
mctfopt:Which one is that? |
freeman67:That was when yours truly got on the train ![]() |
dharpzee:I see that you are a staff/agent of meristem while your service is great, your charges are significantly higher are you looking into reviewing this anytime soon? |
Dudeonyx:Someone who experienced felicity said it was 24v 150Ah in reality. 7kwh for 450k is not a bad deal, else I will say there are folks locally selling 5kwh for 450k if you are in urgent need. |
xreal:If govt puts lockdown on customs that will be suicidal, with the current stats of crude oil |
ceaser:If the alternator has been changed to a good one then the issue may be somewhere else. Just incase attached is how to disconnect the alternator from power supply. You can do it at night, if your level remains the same in the morning then it's not from the alternator. You then need to trace via the fuses. Here is a good URL that explain that process, it can take as fast as 5min or as long as a couple of hours depending on how fast you detect the culprit. https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain |
ceaser:It requires dedicating some time to it with a lot of patience, the process of diagnosis is connecting a multimeter and then pulling the fuses one by one. However before you go that painful route check to be sure it's not the alternator, for over 50% of such cases it's the alternator. Note your battery resting voltage, disconnect the alternator and then check the battery voltage after several hours. |
essegis:Sure it should, irrespective of whether it's a common port or separate port BMS. My current BMS is 80A and it serves the household including the pumping machine |
Northeastern:That thing was around 9+ in the morning, then it closed at 8+ that one no be fall ![]() |
essegis:Mine is about 40A though I think it's 1.5hp |
Dan18: Hoodbilonia:Incase you need specifics, how much will you move car to Ekiti and Ondo States |
kadorzy:Option 1 is not a bad idea so long as your neighbor will see value in it and ofcourse your fence light for security is good but won't be useful during the day. Other options is to add to your battery bank and Run your cooling systems |
JaySterling:A lot of things could cause this, a few below: 1. The battery did not fully charge or did not charge at all by solar, what's your current reading on your solar charging system 2. Your load demand is more than what is generated by solar 3. Your load demand was high enough to exhaust the current that has been put into the battery by solar after sunset 4. Your battery is bad and no longer accepting charge. You will need to provide more information about your set-up in other to advice better. Edit: looks like this has been dealt with above already |
JaySterling:What is charged is the battery. The source of charging can either be solar or through AC (NEPA) or other sources like wind. Most inverters comes with inbuilt chargers, inverters don't have batteries in then, you buy the battery separately. |
adrusa:This is similar to what I use as well, for the 50% DoD am not able to achieve that with my inverter which has a max cut-off of 24v hence I recently started using my BMV to make the 50% alarm. |
NiyiOmoIyunade:Fight kee, I didn't feel offended at all hence no apologies is due as I infact enjoy the interaction and trust me I have learnt a lot from folks here including yourself. Hopefully the little I have also contributed to this thread has been useful for at least 1 person. ![]() I don't think we are significantly in opposite directions, I didn't say consistent 100% DoD of lithium is a good thing as I don't do that in real life scenario, I believe we were just comparing a scenario of 100% DoD of lithium[1] with a 50% DoD of lead acid I tend to the school of thought that a lithium will still have a life more than the lead acid after the process. I don't think you agree with that so yes that is just the only place we disagree which is fine. ![]() Cheers 1. Let's not forget that 100% here means getting 200Ah and stopping which does not mean battery is already flat. Like I said earlier serious lithium companies do over rate their batteries with +5 to 10% capacity to allow you get full 200Ah. |
JaySterling:If it's a smart charger there is no need to put it off, it will stop charging once it detects that battery is full so there should not be an overcharged situation. Most controllers are smart enough to stop/reduce charging when the need arises. You also need to be sure your charging source for the utility is also smart |
NiyiOmoIyunade:Actually i think we may be talking past one another as I don't think we are actually in significant disagreement as such. Here is what I reduce: 1. I had the impression in your previous post that some disaster will happen to the battery if the battery BMS tripped and I stated that should not be the case. You've now indicated you are more concerned about the entire system which is absolutely understandable. 2. The issue of reduced cycle at consistent and harsh 100% DoD is not what I disagree with. However what I am saying is that LFP will still have a life after such conditions than a lead acid at 50% DoD and you've also confirmed that with the 2k cycle stats above. 3. Shall we also subject the topmost tier lead acid to charging at fast rate with extreme discharge to 50% 3x daily with same environmental condition and let's see if it will get near to the performance and a life span of more than 3 years. We should also check the usable capacity left on both batteries after the 3 years as I am almost certain that the LFP will still have more juice left then the lead acid. 4. I did not claim my LFP is rock solid than yours[1] as that will be out of scope of the subject matter, besides I have not used a plyontech so have no first experience comparative data. That said, my focus was rather on doing the performance comparison with a good LFP since we are also using one of the best lead acid figures for comparison and indeed plyontech strikes me as a good one to use. Cheers Bro 1. Infact your pylontech will likely out-live my cells since the bells and whistles on yours are takes high precautions on the battery, one of which is the charge/discharge rates. |
NiyiOmoIyunade:Well not really, as this assumes that you won't get a 200Ah from an LFP rated 200Ah which is not the case; A 50% DoD of 400Ah lead is 200Ah and same capacity will be gotten in a good 200Ah LFP without any more negative impact to the battery than the impact to a 50% DoD lead. The Rolls Surrette have Lead Acid rated at 1,250 cycles at 50% DoD, and a quite a few other premium battery makers also post similar specs. People keep comparing the cheap asian crap that comes to Nigeria in the name of Lead Acid to solid offerings for Lithium and make it seem Lead Acid is a terrible ideaWell yes there are premium lead batteries that do over a thousands but what is a thousand+ cycle compared to multiple thousands ![]() I will use an example I am familiar with - PylonTech US2000 post a 45v to 53.5v working range - at 90% DoD, my battery is still around/above 47.5v. This leads me to one of two conclusions - battery is oversized vs. the quoted spec or there is a sharp voltage decline after 90% DoD - because I know of the inevitable chemical decay at low voltages for Lithium, I won't try to find out what happens after 90% DoD.Oversizing is most likely the case as I mentioned previously. Battleborn confirm that they oversize their batteries by +10Ah. My cells are actual 210Ah. By the way, you don't need to be concerned about going to 100% because that is why the BMS is there. Also, although I have never let this happen, if the BMS LVD kicks in, it means a rude loss of power to a 15KvA Inverter, 4 MPPTs, a GX device e.t.c all these are pricey Victron products that I want to baby - the inverter will not come on if the GX does not come on first and the GX will not come on without battery - only with a complicated disconnect from GX, apply mains to inverter e.t.c will the system power back up and oh the health reading on the BMS will reduce by a % after this failure event.My battery BMS has tripped a couple of times and it has no negative impact on the battery capacity/BMS but yes everything going off is not something one wants to do. Just like in lead acid, if the battery flattens I don't think the inverter will have the juice from the battery to power on. Now for a customer installation, this scenario where the BMS LVD cutoff is invoked is untenable - it is the inverter that needs to shutdown gracefully well before the Lithium battery is pushed to the brink.Any customer that can keep up with maintenance of AGM(or flooded) should be able to manage with a good LFP that has an appropriate BMS. Personally I set my inverter cut-off voltage to 24v since LFP has very little capacity left once/if it gets to that voltage anyway. That way your inverter shuts things off before the BMS but I think you mentioned earlier than plyontech does not seem to like that? # 1 above assumes you have a charging source that can put out that much power for a super fast charge, you could similarly apply same charge source to an AGM battery bank with no ill effectsYes and I did note that as well; using the premium battery you earlier indicated, the official recommended charge is .2C with max .3C but with most LFP, normal charge is 0.5C with 1C max and some builds even claim more than that without issues (though I won't personally try that on my batteries) # 2 above - Here it was not the battery bank tripping but the inverter probably based on the set LVD - you can easily take Lead Acid to 10.5v and still get juice out if you set your inverter properly - I feel you upgraded inverters same time as your Lithium battery upgrade and you are crediting all the improvements to only the Lithium batteries forgetting the impact of the inverter and it's settings on the system.Nope it's the same inverter am using and yes I could have reduced the cut-off but how will a customer feel if he has to always do that since leaving it permanently at that voltage is disaster in the making. # 3 above - I strongly doubt if it is true for a good quality lead acid battery - people routinely go below 50% for short periods with little negative impact on battery lifeI wasn't referring to short periods as the LFP DoD consideration was not for short periods. Here we are in agreement - 48v 400Ah of Lead Acid will need more than 48V 200Ah Lithium as drop in replacement - my number is more like 48V 250AH of Lithium - classic example of different basis but arriving at thesame results.Though I personally don't think the price point is an issue anymore unless folks wants the LFP with bells and whistles (which by the way don't exist on normal leads) but I think we can agree that one man's food is another man poison no matter the aroma of the food ![]() |
engbash:You can do that with meritrade |
eleojo23:No one is an Island of knowledge Bro, I believe we are all learning. I certainly have learnt a lot from this thread ![]() |
adrusa:My logs are fine from the victron/BMV cable. Distortion of your current draw is the exact issue I have with the prolific because the data is not consistent to the pi for proper logging. I just hope I can either get a USB to serial or hope for my GK to come alive soon so I can use the USB port for Comms instead of getting locked to a serial port as is the case with felicity. |
adrusa:We are in the same boat Bro! Though I will say I can still pulled up to 10A at 50% DoD on my former lead acid but that's still not compared to the sustained voltage I get on lithium. Having addressed the price point, I don't think there is other motivation to keep on with a lead acid battery |
saint2ace:Specs and price |
mank1234:Okay I think mine is the prolific, so anyone with an ftdi for sale because AliExpress is certainly not an option for now ![]() NiyiOmoIyunade:No it's not for network connectivity, it's for inverter to pi communication. |
NiyiOmoIyunade:I think same can be said for lead acid, you can't get up to a thousand circle at 50% DoD. So I think a fair equivalent will be a 80% DoD of 200Ah lithium and 30% DoD of 400 Ah lead acid. Even at that circle wise a lead acid will have died when a Lifepo4 is just getting to its 80% usable capacity. One thing people forget is that battery charging is actually a chemical reaction potentiated by electricity - if you let your Lithium battery get discharged to low voltages, dangerous chemical reactions occur which degrade the battery significantly vs lead acid.Agree but really this is why folks need to have a way of monitoring their lithium cells, it's as simple as that. However lithium cells are usually rated below their capacity, so a 100Ah is actually 105 or 110Ah to give room for 100% discharge at 100Ah without negative impact on the battery. There is also the matter of emergency use or special situations, a 48v 400Ah bank may be taken occasionally to 350Ah discharge in an emergency e.g additional loads with guests in the house. A 48v 250Ah Lithium bank has no surplus capacity for extra needs except you upsize at significant cost - you cant pull 350Ah out of a 250Ah battery, the battery would have conced out long before.While I agree with the above, I think it addresses just a scenario in the emergency use cases. Here are a few more: 1. A lithium will have been recharged and used at least twice while a lead acid is still going through her first round of charging. Imagine you have electricity/solar only for a few hours and you have the juice to charge your battery but you are limited to 0.1C (or max 0.2c) on lead acid 2. A lithium handles current surge better in an emergency/normal situation than lead acid. My washing machine does a 2kw surge, this normally trips my former 300Ah lead acid, but the story is different using my current 200Ah Lifepo4 3. We also need to recognize that the occasional below 50% DoD on lead may actually cost 3x or more in overall circle life. Overall I would still agree that it's a good thing not to get exactly 200Ah lithium just that my reasons and motivation for that is different. |
Can someone kindly recommend a usb to serial adapter that actually works? The one have been using just intermittently stops transmitting data, unless I restart the pi. |
Malevonent:Yes it is if we look at it from the safe usable capacity perspective. However I will suggest you go for a 48v 300ah but if your budget has muscle then do 48v 400ah. On the price aspect, I will say it all depends on what you want in a Lifepo4. I can tell you I know someone who sells 150ah for 550k which means 300ah at 1.1m |
Youngzedd:No idea |
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