₦airaland Forum

peterpeteru:
Good day Gazzuzz and other car gurus.

I drive a corolla 2007 sport I bought last October. 
It's engine is heavily slugged cos the former owner was using the wrong oil grade.
So, in December, I flushed it with Liqui Moly and switched to mobil1 synthetic oil
The problem now is, the oil gets short persistently despite driving the car for just once a week, about a 100 km to and fro.

The car drives smoothly, doesn't smoke nor leaks.

What could be the problem sirs and kindly suggest solutions.

Many thanks.

If it's already heavily sludged, cleaning will only allow lighter weight oils leak/burn internally. I think going with the higher weight oil should be your route if you still want to continue using the engine though it will be for while. ;-)

simydan:
Sir! I can boldly say base on CC/CV charging sequence of LFP the charging voltage you'll find on most LFP chargers for 12V LFP battery are rated 14.6V what you really need to pay attention to is the charging current, make sure the current does not go higher than that stated on the battery parameter.

How ever, BMS play a very important role in LFP for cell balancing, over voltage and over current protection, etc...

You may need to intensify your research to be sure. It is for this reason some inverters and CC are built with LFP charge options and once you select it then you can't modiify it. It will charge according to the battery voltage.

In my case, my LFP charger is 14.6V 20A CC/CV and my battery does not change above 14.4V.

You can read through this: https://enerdrive.com.au/2017/11/29/can-charge-lithium-battery-lead-acid-charger/

The point is not that it can't be charged up to 14.6, my point was that charging at that voltage all the time do have a long term negative effect on the battery. A car speedometer calibrated to 200km/h does not mean one should step on the gas up to 200km/h... Even if you have a road to achieve that all the time, the wear and tear sets in earlier than envisaged.

"Third, there isn't much difference in capacity when charged at 3.4V or 4.2 volts"

https://www.powerstream.com/lithium-phosphate-charge-voltage.htm

It's not a coincidence that lifpo4 makers such as pylontec batteries that are considered superior (mostly for life span) sets a voltage within the 13v range: https://www.cclcomponents.com/blog/pylontech-batteries-us2000-us3000-lv-hub/

Eventually I guess we make our individual choices Sir

simydan:
Lifepo4 chargers are actually rated at 14.6V for 12V Lifepo4 battery but what is most important is the continues charging current design for your battery. You will get the right charger if you can state you battery voltage and charge current.

For inverter, any pure wave sine inverter will work fine as long as you're not using it to charge your Lifepo4 battery. Also, you battery voltage will determine whether your inverter will be 12V or 24V

You may want to ensure not to charge lifpo4 at that high voltage if lifespan is of importance. Here is another writeup that further confirms this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://2n1s7w3qw84d2ysnx3ia2bct-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Lithium-Iron-Phosphate-LiFePO4-Generic-Charge-Settings.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjy4P6M5annAhVPilwKHeWoDQ0QFjAZegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw0YeP6Q7vas8DXPnnDzE3tn&cshid=1580334738676

Ifebazz:
If the 'service light' is showing, what exactly should I do?
The oil is not that old as I changed it a [b]few months ago [/b]and the car relatively idle save for work runs.
I don't what Kazeems to be flipping through my engine looking for what they did not keep. I want to go there and tell them exactly what to do. Cest' finis.

How many months ago exactly? What's the mileage readings and the quality of the oil used?

It's possible that your service light does not reset automatically upon oil change, you may need to manually reset it. Here is how to do it in most toyota, you make sure your mileage is on A trip, then turn off ignition, hold the mileage toggle while turning on (not starting the car) the ignition.

GAZZUZZ:
I use 215/70/16 on one of mine.

My Camry 2010 comes with 215/60/16 and it feels quite low, is it better to do what is called "adding rubber to the spring" or I should change the tyre to 215/70/16 at my next change window?

adrusa:
I can be patient. Just keep me in the loop. Do I need to keep harassing you or you will remember me?

Have you finally procured an LFP yet? Mine has been doing fine thus far....

earthrealm:
thanks @all for the contributions, the project is about 3months away, so am taking time to get info and material. and its a DIY ops
AHAAA, @adrusa. DIY sweet, abeg gimme the link for the exact float switch you bought. seen some on aliexpress though

Am looking to do a similar borehole project as well (if budget permits), have you settled on a DC pumping machine yet? If yes kindly share the URL. Standing by for the float switch URL as well

earthrealm:
am looking for a budget install for borehole water supply.1k or 2k liters tank
am looking at 3 options. has anyone deployed any of the options listed , or has a superior option to recommend to me.

note: 2 x 250w panel , 850va luminous hybrid inverter, 12v 200ah quanta battery, 12/24v 100voc fangpusun 50aD mppt CC already exists in the house

option 1: get a dc sumo pump and power it directly from solar panels fitted with overflow regulator

option 2: get a normal 0.75hp or 0.5hp sumo pump, get 2 x 12v 200ah batts or equivalent LIPO4 and 4 to 6 units of 250w panels, with a 2kva or 2.4kva hybrid inverter with surge capability

option 3: get a battreyless inverter and connect the sumo in option 2 directly. 6 x 250w panels needed

Option 3 may be most effective though(depends on the type of cc) am not sure 6 panels will be sufficient. You may plan for 8

Option 2 will be my second preference though the lifpo4 variant ;-)

viazi:
Pls between LG dual inverter AC and Termocool Gen pal, which is better in terms of energy saving and cooling?. Thanks in advance.

I use the 1.5hp Gen pal and on least cooling (L1) It peaks at 700w. I think I heard LG peak at 900w on its lowest cooling.

unicmarket:
Ok. It’s available, Do well to reach us on whatsapp on our signature (below)

Thanks I have gotten another alternative

Colleagues I like to I have a 3kva hybrid felicity. It has a 1500w limit. I am considering oversizing it to be 3s3p, my panel is 250w with max voc of 36v. I need advice on whether it's too much or fine?

I need a good 1.5kva to 2.5kva hybrid inverter with MPPT CC (used or new). It should have adjustable voltage settings

starpower:
148K is half the weight of acid lead types. You can deeply discharge this.

I wasn't asking about the weight relative to lead acid, I was asking relative to other LFPs, it seem to be overpackaged thereby making it heavier unnecessarily

simydan:
LFPs strictly charges with constant current and constant voltage CC/CV. That means that they require a straight charge at their rated current and voltage.

You may want to consider your charging voltage to at least 14.4v because charging at lower voltage may not be favourable.

The experiment seem to say otherwise and on the basis that it's not good to always charge an LFP to 100% I think between 13.6 and 13.8 may be better in the long run.

First, the charging starts at a lower voltage than lithium ion, with some charging starting as low as 3V. Second, there is significant charging at 3.3 volts, which opens up some applications for battery backups in 3.3 volt systems. Third, there isn't much difference in capacity when charged at 3.4V or 4.2 volts. Maybe 3% maximum. So surprisingly you can charge one of these cells at 3.4V and get almost the same capacity as charging at the recommended 3.65V.

https://www.powerstream.com/lithium-phosphate-charge-voltage.htm

ceaser:
The BMS overviltage alarm trips and beeps at around 14.5v and it switches off the charging and the battery output to the inverter.

I think to be doubly sure, I'll measure the output voltage of the provided AC charger of the battery.

So I have been reading more about LFPs lately, it actually seems charging up to 14.5+ which is manufacturer max voltage may kill the battery faster. Charging to 13.8v (with float at 13.4 for those of us who are stuck with float settings) seem to be a sweat spot that is being suggested to put the battery.

simydan:
Comes with a rack sir

That explains it, they should remove rack jare to reduce the weight and overall shipping cost

khalidx:
Please how do I refund money back to a seller? I opened a dispute because the order was taking too long to arrive but yesterday I finally received the order in good condition.
I want to give the seller back the money..
It's a phone screen replacement..

I have experienced this before, I contacted the seller and he asked me to placed order for something else that is equivalent and put a note that they should not ship it, which I did.

I need a Gennix 3kVA/24V (1500W/60A MPPT) or any other reliable hybrid with MPPT CC.

Update: Gotten a felicity.

kulbethrand:
Nope. Estimating Lagos on 31 Jan

Wow! Lots of changes in the original estimates

simydan:
Lifepo4 48V 200A[b]H~10kw
Weight=168kg

Air freight=1.150M (3weeks-5weeks)
Sea freight=1M (8weeks-12weeks)

You can PM me if OK with it...

Am just curious, how come it's that heavy? can you share reference to the battery as it must be built with some very heavy metal.

justcallmenuel:
3.5kva famicare inverter available, #140000. Contact us on 08168986461

Is this the one with inbuilt charge controller as well? And does it have any com port?

eleojo23:
Please which guy is that?

The contact I bought my lifpo4 from. I shared his contact a couple of posts back

eleojo23:
But the guy intentionally punctured it na...and the cell was not inside the battery pack.
It did not burst into flames on its own...In fact, the thing only released gases (which I know may be dangerous sha)

It was to demonstrate that it cannot burst into flames

But why would I intentionally rough handle something I sold a kidney to buy up to the point of puncturing it like that?

So that you can be rest assured that selling that kidney was safe enough

earthrealm:
great news, seems i would try it as well. to replace a disaapointing 12v 200ah quanta, that barely lasts the night on a simple load of 40w to 60w, in this dry season.

This is strange, hope it's not fake. There was a time I dreamt of purchasing a quanta

since a 12v 200ah batt is abt 2.4kwh, i guess i would be ok with a 1.4kwh LIPO4 battery?. i wonder how much that would be

You can try a 12v 100AH lifpo4 which is 1.35kwh. The guy sells that at 110k you can reach him via his number.

ceaser:
The BMS overviltage alarm trips and beeps at around 14.5v and it switches off the charging and the battery output to the inverter.

I think to be doubly sure, I'll measure the output voltage of the provided AC charger of the battery.

Sorry that was a typo I meant to write 14.3. Original post updated

eleojo23:
Isn't the self-combustion thingy more common with Li-ion batteries?
I have read from different sources that Lifepo4 doesn't do that.

Yes I believe it's a Li-ion battery syndrome. I read Lifpo4 are quite safe. Here is a video demonstration of a self bursted lifpo4:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMARDvMz62A

durodee:
Chief, you got mail!

Responded chairman

ceaser:
According to that SCC manual, the moment you select Lithium option as the charging parameter, the SCC algorithm disregards "float" setting and only reckons with the bulk charge, even though the float voltage is displayed when you go through the parameters, but it no longer takes part in the charging algorithm.


So I kukuma selected the lithium parameter, then reduced the bulk of it to 13.9v. Float voltage is inactive at Lithium setting.

In fact before I travelled few days ago, I increased the bulk to 14.0 volts.

Okay I don't have that option in mine so I had to set manually. You may want to check that bulk voltage of yours as it may be under charging the cells maybe you push your bulk to 14.3. My system cells has a charge up to 3.65 per cell (Which is 29.2) when I kept both float and bulk at 28.8 I experienced occasional spikes to 29.1 but things were stable with current settings.

desiji:
The Pylontech's come with registration of 10years warranty and the BMS is one of the best in the Market, there are LEDs which tells you state of charge and if you set the the cut off voltage it cuts it off without and still safegaurd itself from complete deplection by shutting down

Okay now I see why yours is more expensive, mine is 3 years warranty with over 3500 cycle serving up to 10 years of full capacity (at 80% DOD)

desiji:
Victron BMV 702------712

Thanks, based on the price this one na kiv o...make I rest from lifpo4 expenses first

desiji:
Sorry but it is if you want all this completely finished product with Warranty, I am using the Pylontech US20000 Plus that cost from my end 1200€ i am now upgrading to 2x us2000plus plus 1x us3000plus which when you change to Naira cost like the 2 Kidneys. but i have the absolute warranty i have testeted the 1 us2000plus for over one year i have about 267 circles on it i can add the others because it is modular

A quick check on the US2000plus series, it comes with a 2.4kwh. The one am using have almost double of that at lesser price and I think I may have forgotten to mention it earlier, it comes with warranty as well. How many years warranty do you get with yours? Mine is 3 years and It can also be paralleled

However yes those figures you are quoting indeed can cost 2 kidneys (depends on who is selling though) and ofcourse yours would/may have more bells and esthetic than mine. For instance I can't tell accurately determine the battery circle number but it seem yours monitors that.

Barezzi:
@bolded, I'm not sure you should be swayed by the difference, as it's not a true indication of battery capacity.
While Lead-acid battery voltage will sag under heavy load and Lithium remain fairly constant, the energy consumed should remain the same.
5kwh Lead-acid useable capacity = 5kwh Lithium useable capacity.

I believe why you witnessed an improved performance is because of the higher Lithium "useable" capacity.

Yes I agree it's not a true indication, I tried to use the daily battery discharge(see attached picture earlier shared) and the voltage to correlate things as well.

Meanwhile is there any better(close to accurate) way to determine true capacity of batteries?

Thanks