₦airaland Forum

olaboy1:
I don't get your comment on thermostat, please explain further. My TPS when throttle is fully close doesn't have any space for adjustment like other TPS I see. I can upload pixs, it uses screws that fit in completely in the sensor holes with no room to spin the sensor around.
Thanks about the IAT, but please I can't find my IAT sensor on my air intake plastics, and my repair manual for IAT fix is directing me to part of the 5 pins connector of MAF and manual states "the intake air temperature sensor is built in the air flow meter and senses the intake air temperature with an acceptable value of not more than 40 degrees Celsius and less than 1ohms resistance. My MAF sensor has two tiny wires inside and the little bulb like one outside.

I got these pixs on google and I think Toyota has put both IAT and MAF together

ECT & IAT temperatures would only be the same eg early in the morning before first start. During driving they will be different.

musco4me:
This is delta state nt anambra

Seconded. Airtel office on Nnebisi road to be precise.

Do you have a check engine light? Although a fuel pump problem would most likely not throw a code(at least for Japanese cars, Benz may be different) I have seen Kazeems change fuel pumps repeatedly for knock sensor problems.

What exact problem does your car have?

Current problem is most likely caused by the knock sensor code on bank 1 and possibly a clogged bank 2 catalyst (p0430).

With missing/faulty o2 sensors I expect the car to run in open loop, but mileage will head south.

alsudaes1:
How does one know which is from Thailand? Is it written on it?

There is a "made in... " badge

If going for Maxxis, watch out for the 2 variants; Taiwan and Thailand.
I have always gone with the Thai version and had good outcomes. All the people I know with bad reviews of Maxxis used the Taiwan version.

Was in Lagos recently and spotted this guy

Since its less than 10% you may still observe, however I hope your thermostat is not removed and fan running continuously?

Good fuel does affect trim values amognst the other things Egunmogaji listed. I have personally observed significant differences on my vehicle depending on the quality of fuel I get. Too bad we do not know the octane rating of the petrol we drive in this country.

Does your RPM rise sharply on first morning start to 1500 or is the rise a tad sluggish?

Oga Mayor2013 I see you.

At topic, this is very frustrating. I don't even bother anymore I just loose the old part and jet off to market. While there some sellers will even get angry when they bring slightly different parts and I disagree to close the deal.

One even told me 1 day "Oga we no dey use number (i.e. part number) buy plug (spark plug). I don give u plug for ur motor u still dey complain"

Sometimes u get the honest ones though

So I swapped my halogen interior lights to LED lights.
It's so nice, good ambience and its even brighter. Best of all I got them for N250 each!

1st pic is when I slapped in the LED light for the door lights with the halogen still (in front)

2nd pic install complete

searchng4love:
Hmmm you are right to an extent. We can spend the money if they Mechs can bear the consequences of their actions and inactions

You are right! Good service should be backed by guarantee

searchng4love:
or ikenna351 but he likes money too much...... just like his apprentice Gazzuzz

This is why a lot of cars on Nigerian roads are not well Peeps are not willing to spend good money for a good repair job. Labour in civilised economies is very expensive. This why a lot of Americans are DIY guys. In UK you dont bother repairing shoes; most times the amount the cobbler charges will buy you a new shoe.

I have been doing my own repair including suspension and AC work and can tell you that a good repair takes resources; mental exertion, internet, investment in equipment and shop manuals etc.

I wonder what would happen if air planes were repaired with the same mentality we have for cars in Nigeria.

My point in all this, labour is expensive because it costs a lot to do a good job. What a man decides to set as reward for doing a certain task is really up to him.

dumo1:
Oga edakun Pls post pics so we ur students can learn from your interesting practical class.
With your mileage would you do the general servicing of oil change and oil filter change as well?

Sure. Will post the video on my blog (diyautoworksng.com). I do my oil and filter change regularly without fail.

chukel:
they accept our cards. I buy from them too.

Accept our cards directly? That's cool. Thank God Paypal doesn't charge any commission

chukel:
are u not looking for trouble with those transmission pressure switches. Those things are not part of preventive maintenance.

Just like Honda does not list replacement of the transmission filter as part of preventive maintenance. I had an experience that totally convinced me that the replacement of the transmission filter should be part of routine maintenance. Other authorities online also agree on this.

If you Google the replacement of transmission pressure switches you will find that they deteriorate over time, besides nothing bad in putting in a new part .

DIYs loading...

1. Replacement of radiator: Current one leaks . Wanted to stick with single panel (single cell), so got this Denso aftermarket (after-all Denso makes the OEM version).

2. Upgrade to Ceramic brakes: The rotors I resurfaced last year have started their dance again . Will get the rotors locally. Peeps in the house best locally available rotor for 03 Accord 4cyl The last one I used was that one that comes in orange waterproof wrapping. Came across Asimco once but haven't sighted it again. Its best to replace pads with rotors.

3. Replacing my transmission 2nd & 3rd pressure switches: Just preventive

Parts just came in
Car just clocked 220k miles BTW

spora:
I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris that I bought in 2010. The car developed this issue about 2 years ago to which I have spent a lot without any solution:

1. If I press the brake while I motion, it takes a lot of time to pick up speed again when I decided to accelerate again.
2. I will have to press the accelerator to the highest level before it picks up, only to repeat No. 1 above again.
3. If I put on the AC, most times it works. Most times, the car will start vibrating until I am forced to put off the AC. The AC will also start blowing hot.
4. If I am unfortunate to enter "hold-up", the car will be vibrating so vigorously. It also off itself intermittently, which necessitates re-starting everytime.

I have spent a lot on it including taking it to auto-garages for scanning and repairs. I have changed practically everything, including fuel pump, filter, plugs, IC, coil etc etc.

I will be glad to get professional recommendation here.

You need a scan from someone that knows his onions cause a couple of things e.g. faulty accelerator position sensor, trottle position sensor, clogged idle air control valve(vibrating when stationary), knock sensor etc

Scanning would point one in the right direction

mayor2013:
Not possible. You can't drive and like wise take pix at the same time. Your Rpm makes everything evident enough. Rpm not even in the red zone. Oga Gazzuzz that 1zz-fe engine still dey?

A belated post but thanks Mayor, this was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the RPM at just 4000 or could it have been downhill? I really doubt this

copiescopy:
the mechanic did add close to 4 litres of the normal oil

I did a flush twice with 10 cans of DW1 some 6 days later .. that's 5 cans on two different occasions .

The razor and hose theory . what i meant to say was that when the hose was slashed by the sharp object . the mech simply used razor to cut one side off and fixed one end back to the pipe that supplies transmission into the gear box .

I will have to visit the mechanic shop this noon for a pic . and have a clear view of the pipe i am referring to . But please any sound advise on what to do ? till now the gear only enagages on reverse and take time to engage into reverse like pressure thing you talked about is involved

5 quarts is an overfill for this car, capacity is 3quartz and 3.1 quartz for 4cyl and v6 respectively. Was power used to flush the AT? Your description is not clear on how the flush was done. Honda advises against power flushes on its ATs

shotuns:
@piyke, I check on Rockauto.com , their stock is pretty cool and well documented based on every parts you can think of on any car. My questions is have you ever bought anything from them and how reliable is their services including payment options?

I have dealt with them on multiple occassions; very reliable and generally cheaper than Amazon prices. You will have to pay by paypal except you have a US based bank account as I do not think they accept cards from banks outside the US.

However, their system does not have reviews, I usually copy the part number to Amazon to see if the product is listed there with user reviews.

shotuns:
Bro, can you please share the web link you got those parts from. Would be appreciated. I'd like to compare with eBay if it's a different website.
Thanks.

I think they were from Amazon. At least I'm sure of the PS rebuild kit and the serpentine belt. The tensioner I guess was from RockAuto.com or Amazon as well

Piyke:
It's better for you to use a forwarder or some agent like shippyme.com, this way you won't have to pay import duty, because I bet you, duty for car parts are quite high compared to other products. I use shippyme and they are ok. Hope this helps.

Just for emphasis, never use shippyme.com or whatever they have morhed to, they are rouges. I made this post before befire they showed their true colour.

sammywemmy:
Thanks man. I will wait for d Amazon links from you.

For feeler gauges
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25349-Offset-Feeler-16-Blade/dp/B004FEPDJU

For jamnut tool
https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0

sammywemmy:
Hi Piyke,

i got a p1399 on my honda pilot 2003. routine valve clearance adjustment was suggested as the solution. Can you guide me on where I can get the feeler gauges required for the job. How many hours is it? ...

I believe Pilots are V6 so 24 valves (12 intake and 12 exhaust). Duration of the job depends, if its your first time, I would say budget 4hrs. I would advise you get the curved feeler gauges because of the orientation of the valve latches (Adanny01 how difficult is it to use straight feeler gauges?). Got mine on Amazon, will try to get you the link. If you do consider getting from Amazon you can pick up the jamnut tool as well makes it easier but not compulsory.
You may find this my post on the procedure useful;
http://www.diyautoworksng.com/valve-clearance-check-adjustment-on-2003-2007-accord/

The principles in the post are the same, differences include the fact that the firing order for your engine is different.

ColeworldMD:
Hapi new year to all chiefs Gazzuzz, luvinhubby, nas00 et al.. pls my EOD 2005 power steering fluid is shorting but not driping on the floor. Its currently below the low mark. I ordered for original honda fluid on konga but didnt get it. 1. Is there any alternative brand i can use? Or is there any place i can get original in abuja
2. What is the probably source of the shorting?
Thank you

You can contact this guy in abuja for the fluid https://www.nairaland.com/3528331/best-places-lubricants-more-abuja

victoremeji007:
Morning oga gazzuzz, luvinhubby and the other gurus in the house. Pls my honda baby boy won't start in the morning or when I leave the engine cold for long. It started a while ago... Just changed engine and its still doing the same. The first attempt won't start at all, the second attempt would start but jerks then go off, the third attempt will start, jerks and go off. I will have to keep accelerating till it starts and keep my foot on the accelerator for like 2mins before it start acting normal. If I switch the engine off and turn it on immediately, it starts after then. Some thing like a cold start issue. Also, the fumes coming from the silencer is watering the eyes.

Car runs pretty well! Just this issues! I experienced it before changing the engine, still experiencing same now. Please help!!!

Bad fuel, bad ECT sensor are possible culprits. You will need to scan. To rule out a bad ECT switch scan 1st thing in the morning, the ECT and IAT should read the same temperature. If different ECT is likely bad. You may also get a ECT code

afoxy17:
good evening sir, I use a 2003 Honda EOD, I switch off the car this evening ,and discovered the the car got stalled. all meters in the dash board remained,but the car refused starting. I have checked the battery head and it seems to be ok. pls wat is the fault, I am confused

Put the gear in neutral and see if it starts...Were u having any buzzing sound from left side of the steering before this?

uboma:
Another informative thread loading on your return leg atleast......

Did a thread on my previous trip. https://www.nairaland.com/3147460/best-route-owerri-abuja-road

Maybe I might do another since no two road trips are the same

Warburg:
Merry Xmas People,

I have a problem with my honda accord 2008 V6. Wondering if you guys have experienced such, and any advice or solution.

The drive D indicator keeps blinking, VSA and caution indicators are on.

The car really jerks on entering/changing gears(AFT automatic transmission) I have changed the fluid, but the problem still remains.

My mechanic suggested I change the gear switch, but is really the cause? please what could be the problem here, and Advice/solution please?

Also, the car drinks fuel like a b****, Ajah to mainland just once takes more than a 1/4 of my fuel tank, i.e 3k naira. Please advice as this is absurd.

I also hear a faint rattling noise on the highway any time the accelerator is pressed. What could be the cause?

Thanks in advance for the comments

In addition to what luvinhubby has said, what ATF did you use for the refill?

dumo1:
Should we be expecting a road trip thread Sir?

Sadly, didn't take any pics.

Road trips are really fun. Enjoyed my Abj - Enugu drive this week. Looking forward to the return trip in the new year

Very recently I replaced the front compliance bushings on the lower control arm of my 03 accord. These bushings tend to crack and make 'kpom' sounds when going over rough roads at low speed.

A critical step which none of my mechanics had followed when doing this in the past is; Honda recommends when reinstalling the front lower control arm, the bolt and nuts holding the control arm should be tightened lightly and then a jack used to raise the control arm to simulate normal ride height before tightening fully. I believe this step will improve the longevity of the bushings and connected suspension components.

I used the opportunity to make my first DIY video! see http://www.diyautoworksng.com/replacement-front-lower-control-arm-compliance-bushing-2003-2007-accord-4cyl/

or watch on Youtube;


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSkdIHrkl9Q


Merry Christmas everyone!!!