₦airaland Forum

Here's the one I use to buy from Next

Can anyone help with where I can get this in Abuja? I have a brake job coming up. I use to get this easily but it has proven difficult to get in the past weeks.
In fact I used to get one brake parts cleaner from Next but it's all gone and they haven't restocked.

I'm basically doing my drum brake and plan to use the contact cleaner as a substitute since it doesn't degrade rubber/ plastic and leaves no residue.

Certainly an adaptor of some sort. Not sure though. Shagati abeg spill the beans!

Bro how do you intend to secure these your items within the car at the ports?

My friend's car was vandalised at the port recently. They took one of the panels that line the boot of his Ford Edge.
May be find out the most secure means of shipping. Just so all the parts you worked so hard to get remain.

All the best!

austin4real:
It’s 4 cylinders

Just for the records, the filter on the 2007 Accord 4cyl is external

austin4real:
I've changed the tranny fluid but the problem still persists, and from what i learn honda transmission filter is within the tranny, hence the complete system has to be brought down, to locate the filter

Is your car V6?

franklin93:
Hello guys, pls I need help! I am in need of air fuel ration sensor wider range, upstream for my Honda accord 2007. It displays a p1157 code and all I see around me is oxygen sensor not the recommended air fuel sensor. Pls anyone with the information on where I can get an exact fit in new condition in Abuja should help me with contact pls. Attached is how it looks.

You should find this at Apo mechanic village; specifically Honda Arena. Just go with the old one, before you can complete 5 steps 3 guys should be saying "oga I get am"

austin4real:
Hi !r Gazzuzz, I've got a 2007 Honda Accord DC, recently the tranny started acting funny as it always give a Huge thud when changing from gear 1/2, the other gears shift fine and work well, I took it to a mechanic recently and he told me he checked all the gear switch and they all look fine, there's also no burning smell on the transmission dipstick, however he finally concluded that I have to replace the tranny. What can I do..

I know someone who got relief from this by changing the ATF filter, although his own thuds were only on cold starts. Doesn't happen during driving. Although may still need a new AT in the long run as Gazzuzz said

AutoElectNG:
Respectfully disagree.

That engine has no sludge problem.

change to 5w30 but carefully monitor oil consumption for the next 5,000 miles.

At every 500 miles interval, if that will determine if the decision is reasonable or not.

compare oil consumption with manufacturer specifications if within tolerances, continue using 5w30

shall I also add that someone close to me using the same engine switched from 20w50 to 5w30 after 5 years without issues to date some 4 years later

Thanks boss.
This was close to what I did some 5 years ago. I will give my firsthand experience to backup your position.

Yes Piyke used 20W-50 (Mobil XHP) in his 2003 Accord for approximately 4 years but switched to 5w-20!

After getting my car in 2009 I started using 20W-50 since I couldn't find the oil weight on the cap. I didn't know much about cars either.
When I started becoming Piyke I drew up a plan to return to factory spec oil and it was 10w-40 for about 3 - 4 oil changes, 5w-30 for a similar period and finally I have been using 5w-20 for as long as I can remember now; no shortages out of the ordinary. I use 4.73L (5qts) for 3000 - 4000miles. Where we differ is that I use conventional oil. For me any recommended oil weight with the API sticker is good enough for me. I use STP brand precisely, no smoking. At over 230k miles today it has gone well. NB: My car does not call for synthetic oil. If yours does use it. Regular oil changes is the key.
Caveat, my vehicle has been driven mostly highway for its service life. I will like to think that it could have been different if it was mostly city driving prior to the switch.

GAZZUZZ:
every Gen I have owned, Tap has been on, never gave me an issue.

Had a funny experience from the day my Sumec zero gravity 1500W gen was bought; it will overflow if you don't lock it . This was some 4 years ago. Since then I kinda obeyed the rule. Will try it out on this one

For closure...
Just to let everyone who supported this thread know that I finally got a TEC gen as planned. So far so good. It even has remote start
Just that you still have to manually open/lock the fuel tap. Would have just left the tap in the open position but the manual does not encourage that. They should have just automated the whole thing!

Thanks Gazzuzz for this. The many problems of using water in the cooling system.

Guys should also watch out for water and poster colour mix sold as coolant! My brother got this once.

The truth is that genuine car maintenance costs a lot, but many people choose to compromise.

lilkech:
my Oga since when have those cans been having these batch codes? Is it more than a year ago? did they have them in 2006?

oh my lord!! I hope I haven’t bought Dextron in DW1 package

Some earlier ones didn't have those batch numbers. If you go on Amazon you will see some that don't still show the numbers.
I use to have some genuine cans straight from the US which didn't have those numbers. However, the last time I was in the market for some, I noticed all genuine ones had it. Some of the fake ones have a hard bottle; the plastic is not as supple as the OEM. I have also coded the smell of the OEM . These fraudsters will stop at nothing

AutoElectNG:
Congratulations....

Note to self: start your own auto care blog

Thanks boss!

thebigkendo:
I once had a P0706 on my accord, it did not affect fuel economy, my bet is on P0113 IAT code or CKP

You are partly right.
The p0339 will cause poor mileage. OBD-codes.com does list p0705 as a cause of poor mileage. But I do think that CKP should have a more profound effect. P0113 is reported to cause no change in performance except an illuminated CEL

collinsfhk:
OP please pardon me.

Fellow nairalanders, kindly help me out on the attached scan results. The car is 2003 Honda Accord (eod).

The car consumes so much fuel. A full tank gave me about 209 km in four days.

Thanks.

Does the car refuse to start in P sometimes and then start in N? Does it start in other gears? It's the most likely the first code that is responsible for the poor mileage. Your transmission range switch may need replacement but you need to exclude poor contacts first.
When last was the air cleaner element (engine air filter)
changed?

pitastephen:
Hello Guys,

I notice the idle body of my wife's Honda accord 03 is partly close. Car doesn't idle well, it get worst when the Ac is ON

Pls kindly advice.

While cleaning the butterfly plate with the carb cleaner use a rag to wipe away carbon. Be careful not to spray on plastic or rubber or electrical sensors it will degrade them. Also you should do an idle relearn procedure afterwards. Just google idle learn procedure for the car. Do you have any scan results yet?

autologic:
Erratic idle issue doesn't mean the first thing is to start fiddling with the throttle adjustment screw. That screw is not even meant to be touched .
There is a lot of reason that can affect the idle speed to become eratic ranging from misfire ,vacuum leak ,lean mixture issues ,clogged idle valve .
Mind you, the throttle valve is not designed to close completely to allow air passage during idling ,so slightly opening throttle @ idle is normal.
First ,run diagnosis on your vehicle and check the idle speed if it within spec and if not service the idle control valve assembly. Also check for misfire and vacuum leak

1 up for this post!

mexxy1:
Pilot is fine. I've been doing my little bit of DIY but, not really having time in my hands for more invasive work like you are doing. I'm still learning from you guys.

My brother we are all learning. Time is a serious factor o. These days I have become quite busy with official work and basically have to create time for DIY repairs. I have quite a few minor (non-performance) repairs pending e.g right rear door actuator replacement, to address.

mexxy1:
Congratulations. Keep it up!

Thanks boss!
How far with the pilot? Trust good.
All the best.

Got an email, I initially thought was scam until AI decided to independently verify. It's legit.

Got listed on this website post;

http://interstatecartransport.com/101-most-insanely-useful-car-care-sites/

Don't know the criteria but also listed were 2car pros, ericthecarguy etc. If you want to see the listing just click the link and follow the DIY troubleshooting & repairs link. I have screen shots below.

I'm happy

Nice story Gazzuzz. I can attest to the raging sound of those early Honda generators; we used to have one those days; think it was Honda Clarke or something but the sound no be here. Very strong and reliable though.

aieromon:
There is actually a "Generator Talk" thread.

https://www.nairaland.com/2335449/professor-type-generator

Thanks. I actually meant a whole section devoted to power generators

GAZZUZZ:
Let me search for pics to make the story sweeter..

Make that a double. I am interested in this story o

GAZZUZZ:
Generators is where my journey began.
Meanwhile, what part is giving issues? The electrical or mechanical part?

Mechanical and electrical.
Electrical-light bulbs flicker. This is the current issue. Didn't use to do that before. They have changed AVRs no show. Before this, it just stopped supplying voltage, then they worked on something they call "ameture" (thinking this should be the stator). Also voltage is stuck below 200.
Mechanical - doesn't sound as right. NB: Use to smoke and piston and rings were changed. No more smoking. I know from first principles, the bore should be rebored, but I have had the ringing done once and it lasted for a long while. I miss my Owerri gen Kazeem. He was quite good.

[quote author=captainking post=66514663][/quote]Thanks boss. Is it the Optima series or the older one? Optima is the blue box-like one while the older one is yellow and rectangular

omotoda:
I have a Thermocool Generator Hustler (the older model) which I bought in January 2012.It is still in use till date.This is the first generation that came into the market and it is quite durable and very powerful.I cannot say much about the newer models but most gen technician will advise you to buy it if cost isn't an issue.

They could be quite pricey but I believe they are durable.

I have not had cause to use their technicians.

Thanks mate!

mayor2013:
Invest in a generator scan tool

Come and "service the nozzles of my gen"

I am considering getting a Thermocool gen given the good experience I have had with their professional aftersales fixes on my freezers/AC's.

My plan is that I will use their mobile van service for any repairs when they do come. Planning for a 5kva or so.
Any experience with Thermocool generators will be much appreciated. Even better if you have used their engineers for repairs.

Hello everyone,

Since there's no "Generator Talk" I'm posting this here. I believe I will get the best value here.

My generator Kazeems are dealing with my gen (currently Sumec) and I don't really have the bandwidth to fully take on gen DIY repairs.
You know how it sounds "oga once I change dis thing your gen no go be the same again" yet...problems persist....

Mine was subjected to full testing at a VIO testing facility on Kubwa express way Abuja.

Burnt brake light gave me an initial fail.

Modified:

Really depends on where you go to. My test session was a proper computerized one; tested suspension (various tests), emissions (was told my car had slightly increased CO on acceleration. This wasn't enough to be an issue, I believe it must have resulted from the blend of petrol we use in Nigeria) and the intensity of the headlights.

They also had a dyno there and my car rode on it. In summary I was impressed.

I did this video to show how to test the front suspension ball joints on Honda's. This is recommended when you have suspension noise to prevent ball joint failure.

The lower ball joint is the major culprit for the famous Honda tire pull out (aka k-leg)

The procedure is virtually the same across many other vehicles.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIutjnsxoXo&feature=youtu.be

ENDTIMEISNEAR:
2002 avalon . last engine service is january 12
use Total 5w20 4littres plus 1littre
no engine oil shortage . i need a good recommended oil

Your oil capacity is 5quarts not 5 litres although I doubt that is the problem. 5qts is 4.73L.
Are you sure the smoke started after the last oil change?
What is the colour of the smoke, white, blush white or black?