₦airaland Forum

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adanny01:
Thats something i have neither seen nor heard.

The vacuum is to expel air and water from the system and no oil is needed. Except that in evacuating the gas, care must be taken not to expel the oil too. Any oil lost must be measured and replaced.

I am researching on vacuum pumps. I have found out that a tyre pumping machine can be converted into a vacuum pump.

AC vacuum pumps use oil to prevent their engines from going kaput.

You will see it both from the pictures and description on this page:
http://www.amazon.com/Single-stage-Rotary-Vacuum-R410a-Refrigerant/dp/B00BXMRP4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449479339&sr=8-1&keywords=AC+vacuum+pump

https://www.diyautoworksng.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/20150509_095443.jpg

I've updated the procedure for my valve clearance adjustment which I did recently.

Find it here: [url] http://www.diyautoworksng.com/valve-clearance-check-adjustment-on-2003-2007-accord/[/url]

adanny01:
I have seen the pag oil on Konga.

On the refrigerant, i have seen several warnings to avoid products with additives such as leak sealant and others. The only additive that is recommended is UV dye to help trace leakage in future.

You mean the pag oil for the AC system right? I mean the oil you add to the vacuum pump itself, I don't think it's the same with the oil for the AC system

@earthrealm how do you get steady supply of the pump oil? Or you're based in the US?
Will be good if one can get this locally in Nigeria

I'm seriously considering getting manifold gauges, vacuum pump and possibly weight scale to take over AC DIY refills.

Still available!

More power to your elbow Spyder as you create the road

@Irohadis
My booking: S1505200055. I can no l longer see any history of it on the platform.

adanny01:
This is exactly why am scared of even checking the refrigerant charge. My car is 4 yrs in Naija and A/C has not been topped or worked on. Thats why am not considering a new condenser, the best is to recharge.

Naija ac technicians dont seem to do well. My friend recharged his refrigerant on a 2005 Tacoma and the system melted. The evaporator, pipes, condenser melted and the compressor went up in flames. Imagine that, every part of his AC system was affected and everything was replaced but refrigerant never lasted a week thereafter.

I dont see how the radiator will clog up with dirt when the condenser is positioned right in front of it. The condenser usually takes the dirt and hit from debri. Anyways, the way to test is to hold a polythene bag in front of the condenser while fan is only. The pull of the bag unto the condenser will tell you. Dirt and debri can be visually inspected and cleaned easyly so i wont consider it as a serious issue.

There's no risk in checking the charge, you just need a a set of manifold gauges or even some refill cans that come with a gauge.
If you do refill, I will ask that you steer clear from those local small cans. My technician used the big green cylinder and it's been more than a year with no issues

Hi Adanny01,

Another symptom that could help you determine if it's a low charge is if the right centre vent cools more than the left.
I had this happen when my system was low, charged it up and it disappeared.
The condenser looks compromised though.

The only pic I could get

Was driving jejely and listening to some cool music when all of a sudden, the loud droning revs of a power bike broke the air.

The hair on the back of my neck stood and I readied for race mode, hoping to catch a clear pic. I pulled my phone but while opening my camera app the beast whizzed as I saw the clear Harley badge. The rider looked a bit rough and tough: no leather jackets.

I managed a pic, the only reasonable one I could get. There was some light traffic and the guy meandered while I had to wait for a wide enough space to fit my car. In the end I couldn't keep up. Guess without the traffic I would have done better in my 03 Accord. :/
Those things are damn fast and their acceleration... no be here

aaidel:
please what can possibly go wrong when an engine is filled with too much engine oil? my kazeem put in 4.7 liters of engine oil into my engine and claims that is the correct amount i however read online that it should be 3.7 liters if filter wasn't changed and 4 liters if filter was changed. wondering should i leave the car as it is or should i drain a little of the engine oil the car is a 2005 toyota corolla american version

Asides the listed, it will increase crankcase pressure and predispose your car to developing leaks.

Thanks mod for helping, the spam bot had been banning me each time I attach the pic.

Got this recently called a jam-nut tool. I would recommend this for valve clearance adjustments, makes it easier to loosen/tighten the locknut while ensuring that the adjusted valve remains at the set clearance. For the 2003-2007 Accord it really makes it easier as the railing for the injectors get in the way when trying to use a spanner

ifyalways:
Oga Spyder, there should be an incentive in the form of discount for people that are forthcoming with their payments eg, fencing fee, nri ani or whatever else to be paid.

If all of us feign busy, broke, lets-do-it- later then this estate won't move at the pace we all want or expect. Fencing money was130K per plot, a few people paid, people that will pay next year will still pay 130K? I asked this question before but you ignored it. There should be an incentive for paying as and when due and "consequence" when you pay after a stipulated time frame.

For nri ani, what if I prefer paying for it directly? That means my bulldozer money remains intact with you. It also means that if for any reason in future, the bulldozer and clearing fee cost changes( increases), I will not be paying whatever is the new cost but if it reduces, I'll look forward to a refund. Kindly notify so I can effect payment.

I'm still not clear on the " development levy " but I will brb on that.

I agree with Ify on the incentive, more like early bird rate.

kkulaja:
Yea,so back to the basis,I'm taking my time because of my friend's experience,he just mean transmission change is try n error till u get a good working one,he had used a W203 that's C240 and I know what he faced with several gear change though it was converted,then when I hear valve body I run cos I really pity him.and then the gear costs about 90k I guess,maybe they were not much available as they are now.

Since you're in Lagos, you can contact Gazzuzz

thebaft:
Culled from the National Mirror ...

Excellent. I pray this is executed speedily. It will also be good we secure the property in time before investors start moving in in droves

This is recommended to ensure you do not wear out your CV joints!

My opinion,
Spyder880 should use the bulldozer money for the nri ani since massive bulldozing will cause erosion and besides how many of us are ready to start erecting buildings on their plots now?
Again asking people to start paying another sum in quick succession, in addition to the fencing isn't ideal.

I think the priority should be on doing the nri ani and fencing the estate ASAP.

Another pic

GAZZUZZ:
Good product, wish you were in lagos, but I will attend a wedding in owerri first week of dec will contact you.

Thanks Gazzuzz, will be on the lookout for you . I have now edited the initial to state payment on delivery for Owerri and Asaba.
If you actually need it before then, given your pedigree, I can ship to you and you pay after you receive the goods.

See applications below

Save the headache of repeated greasing of shafts, bearings and the like. Use synthetic grease fortified with molybdenum disulphide which has a high drop point (500oF) and doesn't liquefy easily. Limited quantity available and selling out.

Product: Valvoline SynPower™ Synthetic Grease is an excellent heavy-duty and multi-purpose automotive and industrial extreme-pressure grease.

Application: constant velocity CV joints, disc brake wheel bearings, all-purpose chassis lubrication suspension systems, universal joints, and steering linkage.

Special Ingredient and Character: Molybdenum Disulfide, Rust and Oxidation Inhibited, Extreme Pressure Fortified.

For the full spec sheet visit link to Valvoline site: http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower_grease.pdf

Cost and Payment: NGN3800.00, before delivery. Owerri and Asaba will be able to do payment on delivery.

Delivery: All states by courier. Locations within Owerri and Asaba will be delivered free to central areas.

1lb in weight

Interested? Send me a PM.

kingreign:
How much?

chukel:
piyke, where can one get this?

I got it at an everyday supermarket in Owerri. I trust they have branches at Abj. It sold for NGN480. If you don't find it anywhere I think I saw it once on Konga but was priced at NGN900 or so.

Dashboard care product with plasticiser

Mojibola:
More like the battery fuse. Usually an 100A fuse under the hood (fuse box). If you trace the positive cable harness, it should lead you straight to it.

Thanks a lot!

I'm guessing the ECU fuse in the hood fuse box got fried

Seems the dashboard is out of plasticisers, there are some car interior detailing products which contain plasticisers. Plasticisers help keep vinyl supple and thus prevent cracks. I started using one this year, though I don't have any cracks on my 03 Accord, so I can't for sure say if my particular product works, but from theory it should. The product I use is made by shield. Will get a pic tomorrow.

Thanks Kingreign for the insightful post.

ajaolu:
In terms of saving fuel, is it better to wind down the window or stick on the air conditioning when driving in hot weather?

I've always found it a delicious irony, given the greenhouse gas emissions that pour from their tailpipes, that many modern cars now boast in the showroom that they have "climate control" onboard. If only.

But it also reminds me how air conditioning has so quickly become a standard in our cars, whereas just a decade or more ago it was seen as something of a luxury. Something that, for many of us Brits, was deemed to be a very American sort of extra and, therefore, somewhat excessive. After all, what would we possibly want with air conditioning? On those rare British days when the car got too hot inside, you could just wind down the window to let in some of Mother Nature's own air-conditioning.

But now just about every model seems to have air conditioning as standard and, what's more, it's amazing how many people seem to drive around with it on regardless of the weather outside. We've become acclimatised to climate control.

It's a shame, as air conditioning significantly reduces a vehicle's fuel efficiency – by about 10% on average. But, then again, having the windows wound right down is clearly going to reduce the aerodynamic performance of any vehicle and therefore increase its fuel burn.

The general consensus of the car industry folk seems to be that the best environmental option is to use a wound-down window to cool your vehicle if you are travelling at speeds lower than 45mph. Once you go faster than that, air-conditioning becomes the better option, as driving in a car with a window down at speeds above 55mph can increase fuel burn by about 20%. Most of the industry refers to a 2004 study [pdf] by the Society of Automotive Engineers that looked into the issue.

Nice post. On the contrary, I trust Brits will need all the climate control their vehicle's got plus heated seats (if equipped) to make it through in winter!
Personally, I have no regards for saving fuel at the expense of not having AC. I just set the temp dial to condition the cabin.

erico2k2:
Nice one, Last DIY I did for my Bima was the changing of the brake pads ad upgrading to 17", however I have loads of DIY to do to my Jeep liberty when I get to Nigeria circa 2nd week of December. List of DIY IM doing to the Jeep
1 Change of Air filter
2 Change of MAF sensor
3 Change of all 4 O2 sensors
4 Change of front Swing bar Bushings(there are 2)
5 Change of front swing bar Linking rods(2 of them)
6 change of rear upper control arm plus bushing
7 Change of oil and Oil filter
8 Change of Engine thermostat
9 change of Auto belt tensioner
10 Change of all 6 spark plugs
11 change of #4 Ignition coil
12 Pass side window mechanism
13 Ignition Switch
14 Ignition key actuator
15 Engine temperature sensor.
Phew I got a big Job on my hand I have bought all parts and tools needed, but I know it will be fun, there is always going to be cold bottle of origin by the side curtsey of the Mrs.

Seems like you'll have your hands full. Only one scheduled for me for Xmas is changing my PS bearing.