₦airaland Forum

erico2k2:
My guy nomind me, I could not do more than %30 of it, I was so upset cos the Mrs left tools in the Boot and the real owners took them., I only did a couple and at that had the local Mech to instal them with directive from me .But i still got the bits like them ones for the ignition, I realized I needed to buy a new key barrel and re build it.I had issues with the throttle body,my SUV has no MAF,I learnt this on a closer examination what it has is called MAP, I have to buy 3 sensors round that so when I go back again I will have to line up new jobs lol plus buy new set of tools with me this time and lock them up when I'm leaving.How did your one go bro?

Mine went pretty well. Completely rebuilt my PS pump and finally isolated the cause of a low speed front-end rattle over uneven roads. The culprit? My right engine mount. Changed that as well.
Sorry for the loss of your tools. I misplaced the 3/8 to 1/2" adapter for my 3/8 torque wrench during the Yuletide. Will need to have it replaced.

ukata16:
@piyke please how can I get inner lights bulb (LED) for Honda Accord 98 i4 in Lagos.
The ones on the roof, front and doors are not bright. Thanks

I wouldn't know for Lagos o, may be Mexxy1 can help with where he got his.

chukel:
why exploit people when it's #208/$ when u pay in naira.

Never mind the 208 that Amazon displays, wait for the bank debit alert. Bank rates now, have gone AWOL; more like black market rates.

I was even shocked after I checked my Zenith bank statement! The transaction they sent an alert to my phone at 227.13 was actually revised to 262+ to the dollar. The revised alert never came o. So I advice all those using zenith to check their bank statements some working days after their online transactions. The 227 is scam.

noxide:
Oh my God! You mean power windows are wat dey call tapping windows As in tapping glass

And I've been searching Google for tapping glass

Another name for name iVTEC Oil pressure switch by Kazeems is "Raising Sensor" aka Firing sensor

I've learnt to either go with the part I'm looking for, or snap a picture of it with my phone

Just remembered one more...

Moonroof - openroof

GAZZUZZ:
go to the market without a kazeem dictionary and you will come back with nothing.

If you hope to buy parts yourself or to communicate effectively with your Kaz you will need this dictionary .
The day I went to a local parts market asking for O-ring I nearly slept there until one understood what I was describing and told me its called "seal" here

This is sometimes make specific.

o-ring - seal
iVTEC oil pressure switch - Firing sensor (For Honda's)
Ball joint - Bow joint
Catalytic converter - Indomie, cocaine etc

Feel free to add to the list.

Just one of the reasons why we should be careful with dropping off cars at the mech for repairs. Especially for repairs that come be completed in little or no time. Best is to stick around.
A neighbour once told me he saw his mech cruising his Venza in another town (over 30km away). He had business in that town coincidentally. Bottom line is, know the mech or workshop where you drop your car for repairs.

Really sorry to hear this and I guess I haven't offered any advice to alleviate the situation. I would say he should pay whatever he can while you complete the rest.

Mueeze:
Hi all,

I purchased my 2000 Model Corolla just over 2 years ago. Apart from the Coolant, Engine Oil and Oil Filter change, I have not changed any other fluid in the car. Most of the Yakubu's advice that i leave the fluids as long as the brake and transmission is not giving issues.

I personally don't feel comfortable with how long the fluids have been in the car mostly because i don't know how long it has been there before i bought it.

The question is should I change the ATF and Brake Oil? if Yes, where can I get quality OEM oils?

I would personally change all fluids in a Toks or worse a registered car. You are in luck, Toyota OEM fluids are all over the place (depends on where you live). The exact spec of these fluids should be on your ATF dipstick and cap of brake fluid reservoir. Your manual asides also listing the fluid specs will also tell you when to replace them.

adanny01:
Oh yes i did, 3 weeks ago before i took a trip to Enugu. Its blasting colder than it was.

The recharge process wasnt quite a good experience for me. My friend took me to his cousin whom he said is good at it but i just had a stuborn kazeem who doesnt want to learn.

I had no option than to use the small 300g+ since most of them didnt have the big one i prefered. He did exactly what i told him not to do, that is turning the can upside down during recharge. Since the A/C works, i just count myself lucky.

Good to hear it went well asides the Kazeem issues.

Bump Adanny01. Any update? Did you finally get a recharge?

FEGEITOK:
I'll spice it up with pictures.

Kinda busy but the story isn't finished yet...

I'll be back...

I have answered the question of the sort of vehicle in pictures

Picture credits: edmunds.com

Thanks

kingreign:
Oga mi good day sir, pls send me the number of the guy with the black camry SE V6 you referred to me concerning the overheating. I misplaced his number. Pls send his number via SMS to 07034581213.
Thanks.

Sent

aieromon:
Mazda MPV

Thanks

Last month I finally had the chance to rebuild my front brake callipers. My driver side had become a bit sticky and had multiple torn dust boots... Some good boots were also swollen as I had erroneously used petroleum grease on them once.

https://www.diyautoworksng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160116_135721.jpg

https://www.diyautoworksng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/20160116_152417.jpg

Although I did this on my 03 Accord, the principles are cross-cutting for many brands. A few manufacturer specifics may apply though...

The complete procedure is on www.diyautoworksng.com

Nice detail. A few pics would have made a goo feast for the eyes. Sorry if I missed it, what car did you do this in?

sultaan:
O2 for the car I checked are heated

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hyundai,2010,elantra,2.0l+l4,1444686,emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

I might be one of those skeleton models made for Nigerian market so it might have CEL but you don't know if it has that capability unless you trigger one by disconnecting a cylinder to cause misfire.

Case sounds like a misfire, but if the CEL actually works it is a case of either air or fuel starvation if there is spark.

Start with air first looking for vacuum leaks spray some aerosol(hairspray) around vacuum lines and listen for sound/idle change

If none tell mech to check fuel pressure at injector rail read it at idle and WOT to see if it maintains pressure if theat fails replace filter first(not wash) the fuel pump

I know it is not your car but this diagnosis applies to a lot of users

This happened about a month ago sef and I didn't really have the time to spend on the car. I'm leaning more towards Gazzuzz's explanation as the rockauto inventory for Hyundai only stocks American, Canadian and European specs and not Korean. I think the emission laws in America would not allow a car to run without O2 sensors (not sure though).
Would have been nice to have had more time with the car.

GAZZUZZ:
kia, hyundai from Korea up to 2010 (what iv noticed) do not come with O2 sensors Just a simulation. Funny thing is they have great fuel economy. Another crapy thing is the check light is very useless, you can unhook a major electrical part and it will not turn on the check light. Strange manufacturer.

No wonder! Thanks Boss. Quite surprising and good to know. Thanks again.

MrImole:
Are you sure this story was never written by anyone?

I don't plagiarise. You are free to google and search for this all over the web

So I was at my mechanic quite recently and he asked me to help him scan one 2010 Accent which was having an occasional vibration at idle. The Car would also hesitate sometimes when the throttle is called upon.

Well, the car had no CEL and since I had confirmed the CEL bulb wasn't removed, I decided to run livedata to take a look at fuel trims and at least try to rule out fuel supply issues, vacuum leak etc.

Fastfoward. I hook up my scanner, run a manufacturer level scan as expected no codes. I then proceeded to take a look at STFT and LTFT but the car remained in Open loop. I just started the car, so I felt it's still warming up but alas it remained so after 5-10mins. This was odd to me as my Accord would hit closed loop at the blink of an eye after startup.

I then decided we should take it for a spin to help it "heat up" . Holding the scanner while the mechanic drove, it still refused to come out of open loop. We drove maybe almost about a km, but I was on a schedule and had to move on.

Bottom line I didn't read the fuel trims.

This was quite surprising to me, but my plausible explanation is that the car probably does not use heated O2 sensors thus requiring a long warm up time before the the O2 sensors become active and then provide the data for the car to enter closed loop.

Any thoughts?

ifyalways:
Welldone Oga Spyder.

You can say that again. Bravo!

klipse:
Hi Nlanders,

I had my injectors cleaned and changed my 4 plugs. My mechanic said he cleaned the injector head with thinner and applied oil treatment to stop a tampering sound from the engine. Now my car drives quieter but the idle is high. around 1500 to 1800 on cold start and drops to 1200 rpm.

How can I reduce the idle to the factory default at 700? I read stuff online and it said I have to perform the idle re-learn procedure, what is that?

Car: honda accord 2008, 4cyl
Thanks

I fixed this recently on a friend's car. If the CEL is on you most likely have a p0570 code; idle speed too high.

All that is needed is to reset the ECM or remove battery head for some minutes and then perform the idle learn procedure as listed by Inception.

Except if the mechanic did other things, your car should be fine after the above

ukata16:
Hi guys, I want to say a speccial THANK YOU to Piyke@diyautoworksng.com.
I took delivery of the item I won on Monday thru express delivery.
(my network has been crazy since)
To my surprise I got 2 items instead of one.
I got the work eyeglass and ALSO th spray and shine.....
I'm so grateful Bro

Many thanks Utaka16 for subscribing to DIYAutoWorksNG.
Sent you the Spray n Shine as a surprise bonus
Regards,
Piyke

magikalz:
Thanks @luvinghubby

Piyke, are you based in Owerri? I need assistance.

Yes. You can shoot me a mail at piyke(at)diyautoworksng(dot)com

Hello Seun,

I really do not think NL should be accepting ads from Zaposta. Just saw one on the front page. So many Nairalanders have lost good money doing business with them. A little search will show you the stats. I still have a 7-month pending shipment with them with no end in sight.
Just my opinion.

Jedi Master Siena!
I really pity the person that would come in the stock 2.8L and want to have a dance on the M6 (or better, the Autobahn) just because the body shells look the same!
That 4.2L engine just looks like a caged wild animal waiting to be unleashed at the push of the pedal!

Mexxy1 really nice work with the LEDs, makes the interior more inviting...
Nice you got the Chilton. Keep it up!

My advice going from first principles would be to get your same exact replacement.
The CRV one may be plug and play but may not be exactly "tuned" to your Accord. I just did a search and the 2 part numbers are not the same on Honda OEM parts sites.

I don't know if you followed, but when I replaced my leaking VTEC pressure switch I used a grey one as against the black one I pulled out. Both were plug and play. Fast forward 2 months later I got a VTEC pressure switch code. I finally did some search and realised the grey ones were made for 95 Preludes or so (contrary to what part sellers told me) and were not interchangeable (at least from Honda's inventory). I'm now back to the black one which has the correct part number.
An alternator is a critical part and I personally would want to match what came out. I'm not a rewire and so may not offer much as regards getting a new rectifier, but if it's the only defective part why not.

Just my opinion...

OperaMini1:
Mail sent.

Replied

OperaMini1:
The car is EoD, it has gear and acceleration issues. If I' d get your phone no., then...

Send me a PM. or drop me a mail at piyke(at)diyautoworksng(dot)com . I wouldn't want to drop my number here... before I start receiving scam contract calls left right and centre

apexquest:
Its a fuel injector car, mechanic says its caused by bad fuel. Should I just keep ignoring it or be concerned

Change where you buy your fuel from, then observe.