₦airaland Forum

abatically:
The LX and EX trims of the 4 cylinder have disc brakes, only the base dx comes with drum.

4cyl LX has rear drum brakes.

Smartkids:
really nice thread. more grease to your elbow.

Thanks, now at 203,000miles!

Piyke:
Upcoming Fixes...

1. Valve cover gasket change. Current one is leaky
2. Will use the opportunity to do a valve clearance check/adjustment
3. Replacement of driver door actuator. Current one works intermittently

So I've DIYed the valve cover gasket replacement and also checked valve clearances. No adjustments were needed. Haven't yet got the time to do the driver door actuator, but will.

Replacing the valve cover gasket and the VTC filter assembly has ended my oil shortages! I no longer need to top up at all even with all my highway driving. The lesson I learned from this is that even though your leaks may not seem major (I was only having few drops on the floor), it can actually be major. Guess the hot exterior of the engine was evaporating most of the leaked oil.

Funny enough, my Honda manual says that even if using synthetic oil, you should keep to the recommended scheduled oil change intervals

adanny01:
Piyke, true to your words, the VTC filter screen was almost completely blocked with dirt and debri. A full can of carb cleaner was able to clean very well. There were alot of aluminum or metal fillets on the screen. Worst is that i saw alot of fillets and sludge on bottom of the engine oil sump. The sump wasnt suppose to come off until an assistant dropped one bolt to the VTC filter in it.

Seems previous owner really abused the vehicle with what I can see. Would you do a flush?
It appears there was a recall on the 2008's for this specific VTC actuator rattle and many who did the recall said it still came back. Didn't do a detailed search though. Guess you've seen that too. Following closely...

In other thoughts...there's nothing like having a mechanic who listens to advise. Its such a pain when a kazeem junks sound advise

adanny01:
My friend purchased a Naija used car described above. It was reasonably affordable plus good payment option. However, he knew he had alot of fixes. We didnt scan prior to payment. We were informed by seller that the engine had oil pump problems but was sorted meaning some work was done on the engine.

After scan, i got a long list of codes;
P0011 - VTC system malfunction
C1555 - Power steering
P0171 - Fuel injection system too lean
P2185 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected

Please not that there is an intake hose leak that was taped with masking tape. The hose is in budget to replace. The most serious is the VTC matter which search results says the VTC actuator has failed and need to be replaced. Part of the search says the engine will rattle at cold start for 2 secs then quiet. It does exactly that and a little more when downshifting after hard accelration to about 4k rpm. That is serious and too technical for DIY. The P0341might be as a result of out VTC out of time or.just may be the engine time was messed with and incorrect.

C1555 is least of my worries since the PS is working well.

P0171 may be as a result of intake hose leak, we'll see after it is replaced

P2185 i cannot confirm if thermostat is in place but fan is normal on automatic. My guess is its still in place but that will be surprising since am sure a Kazeem messed up the car in the first place.

I did clear the codes and drove for 2 days. The codes all came back with additional ones; P0300, 0301, 0303, 0304 ie cylinder 1,3 and 4 misfire. New plugs in budget plus the intake leak hoping to solve that one. Lest i forget, the engine idle is ok but misses under acceleration.

TPMS is on which i read triggers the VSA and then some power is lost becoming a nuisance. Driving the car, i have noticed once VSA comes on, considerable power is lost. The manual says so and futher says as TPMS is on VSA cannot be turned off.

My friend is almost losing interest in the car not because of the fixes but because he is a rough guy and cant take it easy with a lower suspension than his old 98 accord he demolished and sold off. He jokingly offered a swap with my 03 accord which i jokingly laughed off. Please advice accordingly.

For this I would advise you try cleaning the VTC solenoid and also the VTC filter assembly. Clogging can cause this. I replaced my VTC filter assembly recently not because it was clogged but because the rubber seal was weak and leaked. I have seen someone who had a VTC code because the VTC filter was clogged with dirt.

For those asking for how to get this, if you don't find it in the car parts market around you, you could send me a PM, I have a shipment coming in the next 2 weeks from jand and may be able to help.

Bigrovar in addition, I had to buy a set of adaptors; 3/8 to 1/2 etc. It sold cheaply on Amazon. As you know most single sockets that I've seen here are 1/2

bigrovar:
That looks like a 3/8 torque wrench.. where did you get this?

Sharp eyes. Its a 3/8, got it because it fits almost all the torque spec for my car. Got it from jand.

Raymie:
Please what's the cost of the tool?

Depends on the type you are buying. If you have someone outside the country cost be around 10k. Here it should cost higher

Spark plugs also have their recommended torques. Over or under torquing can cause the plugs to overheat with consequent combustion problems. Some people with experience though have learned to take on such tasks by feel. However, I still recommend using a torque wrench and a good one too.

Again, aluminum is a pretty soft metal, so its good to pay attention to listed torques when working on your engine. There are jobs I wouldn't recommend a DIYer attempts except he has a torque wrench e.g. valve adjustment.

I recently did a valve clearance check and replaced my leaky valve cover gasket. I was surprised to see how low some of the torque specs for the crankcase bolts were. Same goes to the different parts that bolt unto the block.

Stripping of bolts, threads and eventual breakage are all consequences of over-tightening nuts. This is one of the primary causes of broken wheel studs as shown in the previous pics. Some people just torque and torque lug nuts until they can torque no more . My car for example lists 79ft/lbs as the torque for lug nuts and since I started using a torque wrench I found out that I could still tighten the nut further after reaching 79ft/lbs. That's if I was just using a wheel spanner. Its even worse if you patronise a Macho kazeem vulcaniser you could end up with 500ft/lbs on the nut

Before we discuss benefits, a few pictures of...#coughs...not torquing to spec.

Saw the second pic and couldn't believe someone would be driving a car with only 2 lug-nuts

I added a torque wrench to my tool box some 2 years ago but never really made use of it till this year, and when I did, I got in love with the clicks!
Now I always tighten bolts to their torque spec, no more guess work

Below is a pic of mine

Segzie8180:
After all been said, they are all correct because 6 years is a long time to use a 20W50. The engine would have been use to the mineral oil but it is possible you change your oil to a 5W20. Just buy an engine flush and you are good to go. The engine flush will clean up your engine completely.

Segzie8180:
Don't be scared, 3 years is still better than 6 years. Just buy an engine flush to flush your engine before you use the new oil. It only take 5 to 10 minutes to flush the engine. Try Shield engine flush, it's very good. Synthetic oil is the best

Most manufacturers advise against engine flushes (I am sure of Honda) especially in modern vehicles. Except you have a valid sludge case, I wouldn't advice anyone to do an engine flush simply because you want to switch to a lower weight oil. Note that some people have developed problems following flushes. If you do regular highway driving and maintain oil changes as scheduled you shouldn't have sludge.

GAZZUZZ:
You are stuck with it until you get a new engine. For now you can go semi synthetic total quarts 7000 sold for 4700 it's 15w50.

Thanks for the explanation. Would you consider 10w-40 semi-synthetic light for this purpose? I believe it would ease the engine's workload a little and improve performance slightly. Castrol brand sells for 4700 as well on Konga

GAZZUZZ:
Don't even think about it! You might end up knocking your engine.

Gazz can you throw more light on this?

NnamdiChidi:
The death of all these sensors signifies that u need a new engine.Its always hard to secure those sensors so pls my frnd plan on buying new engine

Totally wrong!

azat:
Pls I have this code in my Honda Accord 1999, 4 cyl, Auto transmission, ULEV

Got this code after CEL came on while driving and it said it's air fuel ratio sensor malfunction.

Some people told me they are the same and so interchangeable, while some said they are not interchangeable.

I'm confused. My fuel economy is halved already.

Any experience/ideas/suggestions

lomomike:
Assuming youre using a denso to replace,
Denso 234-902 5 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
Denso 234-462 1 Oxygen Sensor
Miss any of those part numbers, you will get workdone=zero.
Previously, O2 sensors were used, but if your vehicle has upstream and downstream sensor, the upstream is an AF sensor.
Except i am using a toyota explanation then but...
Messrs Piyke, Gazzuzz, Siena abeg come explain.

Please pay close attention to the part numbers posted by Lomomike for the AF sensor. If not the disco light will remain illuminated. Gosh! I hate that light!
Your vehicle is ULEV designed to meet stricter California emission standards as such it uses a more expensive AF sensor compared to non-ULEV models. I do not know if you can find the new part here, you may need to look abroad.

lomomike:
But me I didn't use any container , neither did I take any photographs. I needed no distractions.

Nice one Lomomike, but why no pictures Na .

Never mind I perfectly understand recently did a valve clearance check/adjustment and it took so long because I was snapping my DIY pics as I went along.
It also reminds me of when I did my power steering rebuild without any pics as from the time I opened the pump...needed all the concentration I could get.

spyder880:
There is a possibility that we might decide to increase the price of each remaining plot of land in this estate. This increase will not affect those of you who had paid for their plots but it will be for new comers to this venture.

I am proposing this increase to cater for the community levy newly demanded by the town council authorities. They are demanding 10% of the total sum to endorse the land and sign off all necessary papers.

This will be open for discourse, I am listening to your suggestions.

Like I said earlier, this planned increase should not affect those of you who had paid money already.

Thank you.

I support this as most estate developers increase the prices of their unsold plots as they progress in acquisition and development. I think this is normal, my opinion though.

Modified:
You may set a date after which the new rates kick in, so that those who are yet to pay are given a fair chance

Digriz:
My car started jerking since last month but the jerking and stalling was minimal, I visited a mechanic and he adviced that I should change my plugs. I bought plugs and fuel filter but he replaced only the plugs and told me that my fuel filter is fine.
I left and the problem still continue and increasing day by day,it can stall when am overtaking which is dangerous.
I then bought a scanner and scanned it and it pulled this code p0457 (emission issue). I went to my mechanic but he couldn't understand where the fault is.I went thru Google and everything is pointing to canister valve bt other mechanics I visited told me that the valve is not the cause. I just left and don't want them to do their usual try try way.
pls does anyone know the solution about the code and if it is smtin I can do by myself bcus the car is now consuming too much fuel and i smtimes perceive fuel odor why driving.
The car is VW Golf Mk3 Auto.

Did you service your injectors recently? Smelling petrol while driving may be pointing to leaking injectors or some leak in the fuel lines. This will also explain the stalling with increased engine load

Engine pics at last. No animals were encountered but 'fear no gree me remove the cement bags to the right of the engine'

DECOtech:
Last week, I drove a Toyota corolla to Enugu. Due to my itinerary, I had to follow the Owerri route to Enugu.

I took off from Lagos with 45ltrs of petrol. my windows were wound down cos I didn't need the AC that early in the morning but on getting to Benin, the low fuel warning light came on. I was disappointed cos the corolla is not known for high fuel consumption. I pulled out my scanner and scanned the power train even though the CEL was not on and got no codes.

I bought another 45ltrs of fuel in Benin. This time, I needed the AC cos the weather had warmed up. I got to Enugu on half tank of fuel despite taking a longer route and using the AC.

Using the AC would demand more fuel but driving with your windows down will demand much more.

I think one MythBusters episode confirmed this. Above a certain speed (think 90km/hr) a car with the windows down, would burn more fuel because of the poor aerodynamics and consequent wind drag.

Lexusgs430:
We are still waiting for engine pictures. Abi black mamba don capture you?

Chibzee2:
Ghan Ghan Ghan!...... ezigbote resurrection.
Its all about the drive man....., have you got that inner drive to get it done, if yes, then its very possible to make that bug bang, but if no , then you fit start but might give up along the road or end up with something okay.
waiting for the engine pics though.

Pics still coming, haven't gone that way yet but hope to do so tomorrow.

GAZZUZZ:
Word!

You might be shocked engine is still prestine! There was no thermostat for tonychristopher to remove

I'm really considering a revisit, to attempt getting a shot of the engine bay. Hope I won't have an animal jumping at me Just hope it's not locked

The interior...quite gutted.

Front view...

GAZZUZZ:
Pike you wicked o!

Wait until I post the interior pics , you must be boxed up to undertake this

Piyke:
Rear view...

Unfortunately, I didn't try to open the engine bay. Python fit dey dia

Rear view...