₦airaland Forum

The secondary O2 sensor on this model is located on the catalytic converter on the underside of the vehicle, so raise and support the passenger side of the vehicle on jack stands. I supported but front and rear ends for better access. As always never work under an unsupported vehicle!

To begin you will first have to disconnect the connector and rubber grommet for the O2 sensor, these can be found under the front passenger seat.
Move the seat as forward as possible, then pull back the gap on the carpet this would reveal the connector (grey in colour) and the grommet (black and connected to the floor). Disconnect the connector and remove the grommet.

Tools:

1. 10" wrench
2. O2 sensor socket 22" or 22" spanner which should be able to take the place of the O2 socket.


My tool for this task. 2nd pic is the O2 socket up close.

Reason: P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank1, Sensor2)

I Picked up this code sometime ago and while sourcing the brand new Denso aftermarket part the second dreaded code appeared...P0420 .
Plan: I will treat the P0141 first and see if it was what triggered the P0420. If the P0420 reappears then I replace the cat
Having ruled out other causes of this code eg broken fuse for this O2 sensor circuit (no 18 ACG on the under dash fuse box), I was left with replacing the O2 sensor.

A snapshot from my scanner when the first code appeared some months ago

Something doesn't sound right, should it cost that high? Not a parts dealer though

Drgreatone:
if idling isnt good then and all one needs to do is drive off immed after ignition and be gentle on the throttle at first, what sort of maintenance would u advice then in terms of oil change and interval, plug renewal interval and any other as the case may be

Change intervals as per owner's manual would be the best

CityNG:
I know what you mean.

I bought one like this for this situation.

Yea. This looks built for the job, will look for it. Certainly.

missdebs:
u neva see situation where person direct u inside gutter, u go dey tell am say he don do, he go dey say come, i say come joors no b me dey hia...next thn na gutter

Lol.

I use the 3 mirrors mostly, especially when The only risk is scratching the sides of the car i.e. no direct rear obstacle. When there's an obstacle directly at the rear I use the mirrors but I look back as well as I get closer. Can't say if this is the smartest, just my style

CityNG:
Pic #1 Needle Nose Pliers

Pic #2 Regular Pliers

Regular, not needle nose pliers is the proper tool for those clamps.

Not sure why manufacturers resorted to putting filters inside the transmission.

Good job

Thanks CityNG. Been following Tessie silently and learning a lot...

I actually tried the regular pliers but the business end was not just wide enough to get all 3 prongs. Maybe extra large pliers will do, but the needle nose ones worked just fine when positioned as described though.

adeniyisavage:
im confused o...is that the transmission filter? that roundish metal thing?
im used to bmw and the likes...

exactly, the round black thing with hoses at both ends.

Resuming...Finally, fit in the new filter and follow the previous steps in reverse to put things back together. pix shows the new filter in place

GAZZUZZ:
Pike please look at the pictures I hope you considered the direction of the new filter?

Thanks Gazz, I sure did and at one point had to make a reference to these pix which I took earlier for making this thread

The hardest part of this venture was loosening the 3-prong clamps at the end of the hoses. What worked was placing the nose pliers as if it would pass through the filter. This enabled it to grip all 3 prongs.

With the clamps off, place a shop rag beneath the filter and wiggle each end of the filter side to side to break the seal and remove the filter.

NB: Before removing the filter note it's direction.

To continue, loosen the 10" bolt holding the transmission filter bracket. Bolt is already removed in the 1st pix. Bracket out in 2nd pix

Again you do not need to drain ATF to do this, the spill is minimal and can be caught by a shop rag.

Location of the transmission filter...This can be found if you look downward from the driver's side below the engine fuse box.

See pix below.

I recommend taking out the engine airbox, both the upper and lower halves, and removing the 2 bolts holding the fuse box. This would give you more room to take out the filter

The replacement part. I should note at this point that this model features an external filter. So,no need to bring down the transmission pan.

GAZZUZZ:
Following

Thanks Boss, welcome.

Finally had time to do this This Yule (actually doing a lot piled up DIYs). I remember running for months with an improperly covered transmission dipstick earlier when I got this ride, that added more reason for me to do this...

Materials:
1. 10" wrench
2. New transmissions filter (P/N: 25430-PLR-003, got the OEM)
3. NOSE pliers
4. Rag

disloman:
Honda palace is diff frm Honda place.Honda place is d sole honda partner in nigeria.Honda place apapa do accept american specs.I work there.

Hmmm. Never knew there was a Honda palace, but wasn't there either. Good to know Lag HP accepts American spec though Lag is just too off from my location.
My personal rule now is that I don't take my car to anywhere where I can't enter the repair shop floor. For the bigger tasks, I just do my research on the issue well, and where necessary guide my mechanic.

disloman:
Did u change them at d honda palace?

No it wasn't at a Honda Place, unfortunately Honda Place doesn't accept American specs. I've tried both Abj, PH and Enugu branches.

disloman:
Lolzzzzzz.so sorry 4 that(laughing)true, some of we professional don't av conscience.I tell pple who care to listen to check d kind of auto mech they give their cars to repair or maintain.U can give those road side mech who was trained with old model cars to handle such sophisticated cars.Dd 2nd part of changing d ATF oil,won't blame d mech cos he is talking frm experience.I had such experience.Some customers won't tell u what is wrong with d car b4 telling u they wanna changge their ATF oil.If I may ask,Ao much did u paid 4 d brake pad?

N10,500 6 years ago. The thing about the ATF stuff is that a lot of Nigerian mechanics and driver's alike don't respect ATF requirements, they just pour in any type of ATF and Honda transmissions are unforgiving when this is done.

Nigeria of today requires that every motorist know some stuff about their cars. I still remember an ugly experience I had at one of the so called 'professionals'; I mean the kind of place where you chill off in an AC cooled lounge watching DSTV and sipping juice while they work on your vehicle. Overgauged my oil the first time, then changed my brakes for a huge sum, claiming it was OEM only for me to discover it was the cheapest & useless AUTOBOSS brand weeks later...
These 2 experiences and lastly my asking my mechanic for an ATF change as per maintenance schedule and he declined saying the gearbox may fail afterwards made me forage into DIY which has been a very good experience. I also know when to seek help on tougher tasks and I perfectly understand you Adanny. Keep the DIY spirit up.

Do let us know how it went. Planning to do this as well but, think,I need more research before going ahead. Would change my head gasket as well in the process as I have some oil stains from there

adanny01:
Guilty as charged.

I just didnt think the car was that 'smart'. I do remember that my office car had always too low idle after battery removal. That one had electromechanical trottle pedal against my the 03 Accord with a purely mechanical trottle pedal. After looking all over the trottle body for idle atjustment i realised that it is ECu controled and will require a relearning process thats why it took a day to.

On the gear, i am fully convinced that the ECU has control over that too which has now relearned its previous settings since everything i have noticed have return back to normal.

The funny thought i have is, why did the ECU (probably) lock the selector to Park and start working only when the relearning process was obviously completed. I see a connection. The ECU wanted me to relearn it before driving?!

Almost everything has returned. I confirmed my ac drain condensation pipe is discharging normally. Only problem now which started yesterday is that the drivers door central locking mechanism has failed. So the remote does not completely lock or open doors

Your driver's door actuator for the central lock may be bad. Having this problem currently, would be changing mine soon though

HappyJoe:
I'm not sure that hotel is part of the global Golden Tulip franchise.

It started as Golden Tulip but after a few weeks got re-branded as Golden Royal

Repeat the procedure for the other wheels following the bleeding sequence...
I show below the setup for the rear wheels, the location of the bleeder valve is different, being that the rear uses drum brakes. Also the bleeder's lock nut is a size 8"
The stub above the brake line is the bleeding valve cover

When all is done take the car for a drive to confirm the brakes functions okay

To bleed, slacken the 10" lock nut of the bleeder valve, then depress and release the brake pedal a number of times. Do this until you see fresh brake fluid coming down the bleeding device. You will easily notice this with the change in colour. Again, in all this, never allow the brake fluid to go below the minimum line on the reservoir.
When you begin to observe fresh fluid, you can then tighten the nut. Remember you don't need an assistant to keep the pedal depressed at any point .

Tip: During the procedure I discovered it takes about 25 pumps to bring the brake fluid in the reservoir near the minimum line

The setup...Never mind the support stand and the stone, just using it to keep the bottle from falling

Continuing... remove the front left wheel and locate the bleeder valve, remove its cap and attach the bleeding device.

First kindly note that on this Accord there is a sequence for bleeding each of the brake lines. The sequence is clockwise starting at the front left wheel:

1. Front left wheel - 2. Front right wheel - 3. Right rear wheel - 4. Left rear wheel

So we start at the front left...
1. Jack up the vehicle and support on stands
2. Open the hood and the brake fluid reservoir
3. Aspirate as much old brake fluid from the reservoir as possible
4. When you remove as much as possible, fill up reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
5. At all times during this procedure ensure the fluid in the reservoir never goes below the minimum level line

The second pic shows the dark colour of the used brake fluid. New brake fluid is clear and transparent.

On this model, according to the owners manual, brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years independent of mileage. My replacement is overdue (had the car for 6 years with no replacement . I know better now.

Needed materials:
1. 8" and 10" spanner
2. Jack
3. Support stands
4. Aspirator (I improvised this using a syringe and pipe)
5. One-way valve bleeder (my substitute for the Mityvac vacuum bleeder )
6. Brake fluid (This model uses Heavy duty DOT3 not just DOT3)
7. Transparent water bottle

A few of these items are shown below. A closer shot of my cheap one-way valve bleeder is on the second pic (got it for less than 5GBP I think on Amazon)