₦airaland Forum

adanny01:
New update.

After trying all means to get my engine idle speed stable it stabilized by itself 24hrs later, that is, this evening. Secondly, the gear shifter lock that wasnt working started working about the same time the idle speed stabilized.

I have noticed a difference in the gear shifting. During fast acceleration, shifting is very smooth but its more pronounced on slow acceleration especially 1-2. Downshifting is not smooth from 2-1. It is strong like i suddenly stepped on the brakes. Overall, the gear is crisp and sharper but with the downsides of not so smooth up and downshift between gear 1 and 2.

Guess you didn't perform the idle learn procedure after the repair. This should always be done any time the ECU is reset or the throttle body is cleaned. As for the shifting, don't have a clue on what's going on

Thanks for coming back to update on the real culprit!

lonelydora:
Whats the sign you saw that made you change the PCV valve?

No sign actually, was inexpensive and besides my car is 190k miles so just decided to do it since its one of those maintenance tasks.

I'll go for the Audi straight! Simply because of the luxury and the fact that it's a sedan. The Dodge Ram just has an unappealing look to me.

Lastly inspect the fresh air inlet hose marked with an arrow in the first pic. If there are cracks replace.

Now this is why I said I regretted buying a Beck Arnley aftermarket PCV valve. It just simply broke on re-installation
I had to jeejeely give the old PCV valve a thorough bath with carb cleaner to blow off any dirt and then installed it back with no troubles

I used to think Beck Arnley were good. From today no more of their products!

With the PCV hose sorted, loosen the PCV valve and its washer using the 17" wrench. Once out, a good PCV valve is said to rattle when shaken. Mine still rattled...

With your 10" wrench remove the intake cover (the plastic that has IVTEC written on it). It is held by 2 bolts. The essence of doing this is to get to the other end of the PCV hose. See pic below. Remove the clamp at the other end of the hose.
Carry out an inspection of this hose for cracks and also blow air through it to make sure it is not clogged.

Down to business.
The PCV valve is located just above the alternator for this model. To begin, release the clamp from the PCV hose and pull off the hose.

To verify that the PCV valve works,
Start the car and allow to come to operating temp
Once warmed up, pinch the PCV hose with your nose-clip pliers.
When pinched the PCV valve should make a clicking noise.

The above info is straight out of Hyanes manual. I did not do it. Rather I have read from several online sources that if the PCV valve rattles its still okay, so thats the one I did after....

The parts of the PCV system we're going to be concerned with are
1. PCV valve and PCV hose. These are marked by the red circle
2. Fresh air inlet hose. Marked by the red arrow

The PCV (Positive crankcase ventilation) valve is one of those things we replace but often times can be neglected.
Since 200k miles is almost at my door step I decided to do this.

Materials:

1. Nose-clip pliers
2. 17" wrench or spanner
3. 10" wrench or spanner
4. New PCV valve (Got an aftermarket part: Beck Arnely...I regretted it)

Possible causes for P0705 are

- Faulty Park/Neutral Position Switch
- Misadjusted Park/Neutral Position Switch
- Park/Neutral Position Switch harness is open or shorted
- Park/Neutral Position Switch circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0705_honda.html#ixzz3MXACJbYS

Guess you've seen this already. So make sure connections are intact as well

The automobile policy of GEJ is definitely one of the best of his achievements. Global auto manufacturers setting up shop in Nigeria anyhow...good. I just pray FG doesn't suddenly shift sides like they did to Sir Branson with Virgin Nigeria

The Benz

abbeYhart:
I have been looking for where to get this o-ring in Lagos for a 2005 Honda accord V6. Could you guys suggest where I can get one in Lagos?

[quote author=erico2k2 post=28793248][/quote]If Amazon would take your time, pull out the o-ring from the car and take it to Naija parts market to the section that sells seals. You should be able to get the size there. Don't tell them you're looking for o-ring cos no one would likely know what it is. I think the size is 13X1.9mm if I'm not mistaken

Emmysteve:
Please help me, this problem has been persistent. I have to top water almost every time and i am getting tired already. I have traced every possible hole on the car but nothing. When ever i open the coolant, i would still see water on the surface then top it. I don't just know where exactly is leaking. Pls help. Thanks

Have you ruled out slack radiator and coolant reservoir covers?

The kind of love that preserves marriage cannot be possibly shown to two women at a time. I think what you have maybe infatuation or lust. I mean the real "till death do us part type"
To truly love a woman takes great effort and time. No man can do this to two at the same time effectively. Every woman wants go be the sole subject of attraction. Are u in for Twice the emotions, twice the arguments and co?

whirlwind7:
I actually made my last comment before I saw this. This sounds great. I support this plan. However, it left out the community development levy, to ensure they have no business in the land. Can you include it? That is one other obstacle that needed taking care of, cos it would still affect the development of the estate if left for individual owners to handle.

MODIFIED: I just realized that you are posting the different options. Let me wait till you are done with it, then I can vote for the one that suits me. I was hasty because my blood dey hot!

No be only you o. Blood dey hot here too. We need to seal this

Well done spyder. I am a just a bit concerned on the new price. I would prefer the initial estimate of 600k or just enough to grade the roads in addition to doc's.

We can shelve the school land for now so that we can apply these monies towards costs for registering the lands. Also since numbers are important lower costs would increase the number of people who can pay.

Just my own opinion. Still thinking though...

Spyder please continue with the investigation, we know your track record. And please don't spill any details here, if you do, some other mightier persons may outbid you and steal this piece.

I am still in.

Reporting for class!!! Hope I'm not too late. CityNG you still dey add to the arsenal Watched the video of the dollies...looks nice to push your car around

spyder880:
Yes we are looking at a gated community within the layout. This is not an estate yet but a piece of virgin land divided into plots, so far I am the second person to indicate interest to the community. The first investor is asking to buy only 100 plots. I could develop my own at my own pace and plans, just that I will need to ratify my plans with the lands town planning department and then register the deeds with the ministry of lands.

The cost of the gate will be considered. I am hoping to start collecting deposits to hasten the transaction and acquire the lands first.

If we are going to incorporate the fence, the price might rise to N800,000 per plot. But I think we better acquire the land first. For N600,000 I believe I can prepare each persons piece of land, deliver his original documents to him and be ready to start works in the bush.

I am adding a bonus of one trip of sand for the first 20 deposits, delivered on their piece of lands and picture confirmations shown right here on this thread.

As usual, I will always respect the confidentiality of the investor, no mention of the actual payees except where they demand me to mention it here.

Sounds right. I mean getting the land first

Much interested Spyder in this last piece. Will call you later today

Another sign I noticed, is fluctuating idle speeds. I was surprised how this vanished with new and good fuel

By far the most common sign the Accord gives me when I've got bad gas shows up the next morning after filling up...A sluggish rise in RPM at startup

Usually in this model of Accord once the engine is cranked, the RPM go sharply to 1500RPMs and then reduces as the car warms up. But with bad petrol sometimes, it would just sluggishly rise to 1500RPM. It may even stall!

I remember how I thought I had a fuel pump issue when I experienced this for the first time. I usually deal with this by driving till fuel light comes on then I fill up and add injector cleaner . Voila its gone

Should one drain the fuel rather than drive?

For my 2003 Accord LX rarely would it show immediate signs. But it did do so some years back by throwing a Check Engine Light once exiting the filling station. A bottle of injector cleaner and some driving cleared the CEL.

Didn't have a scanner then so I couldn't check for the codes!

Wished that our petrol here had octane ratings just like the UK or US. I guess the need for this thread wouldn't have arisen. I've decided to make this thread because this year alone, I've had 3 separate experiences of bad petrol in my car. I'm currently having one.

I also believe different car may react differently so what are the signs you normally notice when you buy bad gas.

I am not a distributor for Milemaster but had experience of this in 2 cars. I would detail them here:

1. 2003 Honda Accord LX 4cyl 190K+ miles

Good: More MPGs on highway driving (no gains were observed in-city driving), better acceleration and the car moved like it never had in years.
Bad: Oil shorts - This didn't start immediately as I monitored for it but stopped along the line since I didn't observe any shorting. Only for me to have a CEL one afternoon, I instinctively checked the dipstick and it was just at the low mark!!!
Worsened leaks -Prior to switching to milemaster 5W-20 I just had some negligible wetness. I noticed that this got worse after the switch. It didn't get to the point of dropping on the floor though. Maybe the milemaster cleared some sludge...

2. 2008 Toyota Corrolla 4cyl 89k miles

Good: I didn't observe any change seeing that we just got the car and only serviced it once with 20W-50 prior to using Milemaster.
Bad: None. No oil shorts or leakage.

My advice

If you have any form of wetness or leakage of oil in your engine, I advice you look for conventional oil instead as it would get worse with semi-synthetic. Also oil burning may be related to higher mileage cars. I discontinued it on the Honda but would have continued if not for the leaks.

[quote author=baaliyah post=27424116]Does absence of engine oil in a car trigger check engine light? [/quote )
Yes

lomomike:
Mtcheew! I been think say OP wan convert petrol motor to Diesel, comot the 4 cylinder engine, drop i6, change the drivetrain I no know say na lecture him wan give. OP you no try

You really cracked me up

CityNG:
Pontiac Aztek.

This looks like something out of Starwars