Macmilla:

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

Macmilla:

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

Do you have a scanner close by? If yes, check the idle target for the ECU. Staying at 1000 rpm is very unusual imo for your engine.

jceesquare:

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

This was my first thought too.

Macmilla:

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

Here's an idea; ask a technician to check the heat shields of your exhaust in front. Had a very annoying rattling sound when accelerating with my car and for a long time, I couldn't figure it out. Turned out it was a heat shield bolt and some weird resonance that caused it. The rattling then would only happen at 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm

Macmilla:

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

Idaok007:
Why do people go against you buying Honda as your first car?

Honda fans need your advice.

Because a Honda needs proper maintenance with the right fluids and parts. Do that, and you will thoroughly enjoy your Honda.

But most people, either through genuine lack or carelessness are not able to, and both them and their Honda suffer as a result.

Macmilla:

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Macmilla:

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.

Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

Macmilla:



Update on my 2003 accord k24:
So I replaced the VTC solenoid, cleaned the strainer, cleaned the vtec solenoid filter. Most dtc codes disappeared but car was sluggish af. Overtake on the highway was risky.
I remember I noticed my timing was off at a point and couldn't get it to align well, which means my timing chain was stretched. So I had it removed and compared it with a replacement. It was stretched by More than a tooth. Weird
So with a new chain installed, my timing marks were spot on.
On a test ride, car was powerful again
But I still have issues.
1. Check engine light keeps coming on with a "Pending code" p0011 no matter how many times I erase it. I was told it will erase on its own after some oil changes. I'm just hoping it does cos it's annoying. Car still moves well.
2. If I hold the brake and shift into reverse when idling, the engine has a marked vibration with a loud rattling from the belt side. Sounds like a piece of metal hitting metal. Like the timing chain is hitting something. This rattling started immediately after the timing chain replacement. I've replaced the timing chain tensioner and it didn't affect the sound. Belt adjuster, water pump and belt swapped and no change in the rattle. I'm confused at this point. This rattling is NOT present at normal idle and not present at high rpm. It is only present when reverse or drive is engaged while hold ing the brakes, or when I come to a stop holding the brake but still in gear. The engine vibration is high at this point.
I need help. Is there something like a bad chain when it's not physically deformed or stretched? Is there something I did or didn't do that is probably making the chain loose and wobbly to be hitting somewhere? Is the noise causing the vibration or the vibration is causing the noise? Make una help me please.

Er, not too sure what the problem can be, but I can suggest checks based on what you said.

1) I don't think the rattle is connected to the engine itself, since it is not present in normal idle or high rpms. Something might be loosely tightened around the adjuster area. It can also be your engine seats. Have a mechanic check them thoroughly to ensure none is damaged. I know the tranny side mounts can cause vibration in drive but not park, idle or reverse. Make sure to check the tranny mounts well for this.

2) That p0011 code is a pain in the ass, for lack of a better description. My Accord 2008 also has it, and I've done everything short of tearing the engine apart, still won't clear. Hopefully it clears, but I can't promise it will.
Check for sludge in your engine as a sort of a last resort.

2shure:
Scrap

Kashif:
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Final Update: complete driveshaft replaced. Parts sourced from hondajosh, pleasant man to deal with.

No more wobbling on acceleration and knocking sounds. Finally!!!

mrvitalis:
This is why $1 to 1600 is not yet enough

This is why the hunger in the land is still child's play

This is why the insecurity is still baby

Things would get worse... It would get to a point people like this would be taken from there and beaten blue black...

We just not sure how much Nigerians can take

Yorubas are close to breaking point let's see what it would take to break North

I agree 100%. Till the hunger becomes truly unbearable, these kinds of people won't be changed.

Even then, I doubt hunger can do it.

Emekayoung:

Visit oyingbo. Mechanics plenty there. Na one day them dey know person.

Not in lagos

Update!

After much work, the gear seat I just replaced was found to be torn and shifted forward, which caused the vibration. It was a battle getting it out

So I got another one and this time it was seated properly, and brethren, no vibrations!!

The mechanic said it won't last for too long, that new mounts were usually not as good an strong as tokunbo. So I know I need to get good toks mount for the gear now.

As for the knocking sounds, the right side strut mount was not tightened properly, and was redone. Yet, knocking persisted. Ball joints were checked again and readjusted, then the bolt for the lower control arm was discovered to be worn. That was replaced.

Knocking reduced, but I'm not satisfied with that. The axles were checked and the left side inner cup is worn, causing the wobbling when accelerating.

So concluded to get toks axles and gear seat. But for now, vibration is greatly reduced and knocking is greatly reduced.

Macmilla:

Ok. This did not work. I reset both my cam timing and my oil pump timing l, (both were not set correctly) but the check light reappeared next morning with exact same codes (p0011 and p0341). So I still need help. I'll start throwing parts at it.

How about the intake camshaft solenoid? It might be bad, or the tiny filters might be blocked.

At the mechanic's presently. This engine seat that was changed recently was removed and the mech said it's metal touches the side when in drive, and that's at least a cause of the vibration in drive.

I was just reading about this now, and opened nairaland and saw your post. I'll check this tomorrow.

Thanks a lot for the heads up.

kingreign:


No sir

Alright. Finding a good Honda mechanic has been hard.

Will revert when I have found one. Thanks for your reply.

kingreign:
Redo the whole suspension again. This time, let someone who's competent do the job.

Okay. Have any contact in Ibadan?

Cc nurey kingreign Auto manual hondajosh

Hi house. My Accord 08 engine sump and front shocks were recently changed. Ever since, I've been hearing a lot of knocking sounds from the suspension, plus an ungoldy vibration when you press the brake in drive. Not in other gears, just drive.

The mechanic who changed both parts looked over it and changed two mounts, one at the base of the tranny on the driver's side and the other on the side of the passenger.

That didn't fix the vibrations, but the knocking sounds are even my first concern. Accelerating, decelerating, and sometimes turning causes the knocking sounds. The car feels wobbly when accelerating, especially between 20kmh-40kmh.

Another mechanic also checked the car, couldn't find the cause of the knocking sounds not the vibrations. Both techs confirmed that the engine mounts are all good, but there's still that rubbish vibration. Ball joints, tie rods are fine.

Pls what can I do next?

theadeola:
Hello all.

I need to get a competent Honda technician in Ibadan ASAP. Recommendations are highly appreciated.

Good contacts appreciated. Anyone?

Hello all.

I need to get a competent Honda technician in Ibadan ASAP. Recommendations are highly appreciated.

wow. 4m? Naira

Brendaniel:
Please the entire south east should stay out of any national protest, we warned them about Tinubu, they didn't listen

Gbam!

ceragon123:
Where is my fried, Mr Una Neva C. Something

jceesquare:

No. It will also cause vibration while accelerating

Ah, exactly. This happens and seems to make the car a bit slower than normal. Is spider bearing the same as output shaft bearing?

I've called a mechanic to come and examine it. I wanted to be sure of what the issue was before calling anyone. I don't want wahala.

Any Honda mechanic in Ibadan pls.

No, not the Honda place abeg.

jceesquare:

A bad spider bearing will make a clunky sound when shifting from D to R and R to D.

Okay. But is that the only symptom, especially since the both sides seem to be worn out.

GreekDon:


If the engine mounts are good, the next suspect will be the strut you replaced. By strut, do you mean the shock absorber or the entire suspension assembly? You might need to take a second look at what was replaced. Inferior shocks can contribute significantly to vibration in the 2.4L accord.

I replaced just the struts with prt struts. They are not low quality parts.

I took the car for alignment today to see if alignment was causing the clunky sounds. The alignment man said based on his experience, the spider bearing (what our kazeems call Boris) was slacked for both sides. He said to replace them. I asked a technician if slacked or damaged spider bearings could cause both the clunky sounds and the vibration only I'm drive. Reverse is so silent I have to check if the car is still on by looking at the rpm.

But drive

My Honda Accord 2008 2.4l car just had the engine sump replaced, and now car vibrates excessively in drive but not in park or reverse or neutral. I've had the mechanics check the engine mounts and the two that were damaged were replaced.

The car wasn't vibrating in drive like this before, and I'm at a loss as to the reason, as engine mounts seem to be fine all round.

Also, there's this dull clunky sound when turning the wheels at low speeds that started after the front absorbers were changed (the engine sump and strut change were done together). I don't know what the issue is also, as the shafts and ball joints have been checked and nothing was found.

Pls any ideas as to what these issues are and how to resolve them will be appreciated.

Isokiscool:
APC destroyed this country economically,I know you know the truth but you will like to pretend about it since ur name is ADEOLA.

What has my name got to do with the APC? Can't you recognize sarcasm when you see one? Na wah o.