[quote author=diportivo post=124451767][/quote]

Raysleek:

The first right question to ask is how long did he drive in the city driving. How many miles did he cover in the city driving. Then you can compare the mpg and the mph

I did 29.2 miles in the city, and that took over 3-4 hours with a lot of stops in between.

Itsrm:


What we need to know is his average MPH in town. I believe honda vehicles have this information in their trip meter.

Without it, there's no way of knowing if 10mpg is okay or not.

My average mph in town is between 40-45mph.

kingreign:


10mpg in city driving is NOT perfectly okay.



Do you have a check engine light on?
If you do, scan and post codes, you'd also need to consider running a live data scan.

Check your whee alignment, intake air filter, plugs, injector, fuel pump filter, and your thermostat is okay.

If you stay in a city that has very terrible traffic like Lagos, your car may be experiencing such issues.

I don't stay in Lagos. The city mpg was gotten in osogbo. I recently changed my plugs and air filter, and my thermostat is present. I also did my alignment recently, so that is also out. I'll check the fuel pump filter and injectors.

A vtc code came on recently, but that's after I got 30.8mpg on highway driving, so I am not sure if that is the cause of the bad city mpg.

Hi house.

My 2008 Honda Accord got me 30.8 mpg on the highway but only 10mpg in city driving. I think the difference is too much.

Pls what can be the issue? Scanned the car, no codes.

RoadMozart:

Was it i4 or v6

i4. Did 30.8mpg too😁

143km/hr Ibadan to osogbo with a Honda Accord 2008 LXP.

jceesquare:

If your engine has sludge buildup in it.
You can ask your technician to clean the VTC strainer, clear code then drive around to see if the code come back.

The code has come back after about 25 miles of driving. The car has no power loss whatsoever, and doesn't rough idle or any other symptom of the p0011 code.

The oil life is at 70% though, after just 450+ miles. The previous owner was terrible at general maintenance. It's a miracle the car runs as smooth as it does. I'm a bit worried about the oil life thing, as some metal particles were found on the vtc strainer.

Do you have any advice for me on how to proceed? Car is fine minus this annoying issue.

I was lookingnfor a car to get before my wife gave birth, as I didn't want her to be flying bike with my kid. An acquaintance had a Toyota matrix he wanted to sell to raise funds from traveling abroad. I remember being so dazzled by the car. Life was just getting kind to me then, so it looked like manna from heaven.

I got the car without any form of inspection whatsoever, and boy did I pay for it. Changed engine and gear, changed suspension. (You can find the story here
https://www.nairaland.com/7638400/bought-lemon-now-want-use)

But the car runs great now, and my wife loves it. Me, I've moved to an Honda Accord 2008. Owner bought it near new in 2009, and only used it for 59k miles when I bought it recently. Couldn't believe my eyes.

Namzy:

It will definitely not do that. The spacer is to clear the check engine light.

Guessed as much, by was hoping it would. What can I do to reduce the noise or eliminate it?

Namzy:
Mine is the noise the car exhaust develops without the catalyst. How to remedy that?

This is my issue currently too. Does the spacer solve this, or is there anyway to solve this?

Aaaaarghmed:
Goat enter my road with full force while I was on speed on a highway long trip,as a long time driver,if I hold brake,car fit tumble,I kukuma maintain speed and slammed it,bumper peel.i continue my trip

Dozieson:


DIY. It is a simple task. Check YouTube on how to check if the solenoid is working well. Also make sure your oil is guaged

Okay, will do. I just changed the oil in the car after I got it. The former owner didn't do maintenance on time, was showing 15% oil life when I got it. So I changed oil with 10w 40 synthetic oil and oil filter.

That made the rocker arm code disappear, leaving this one. I hope I don't need any special tool for the diy thing Sha.

Thank you very much

jceesquare:

Then call 07089030689 if in Lagos

Unfortunately, I'm not. I'm in Ibadan, and I've been looking for a good Honda mech here.

DaddyRochie1642:




Oga to slap you dey hungry me

Honestly

jceesquare:

Are you still going back and forth on this?
Thought you've done it already.

I was going to do it, but need a competent Honda mech. Not sure about the expertise of my mech with regards to Honda.

Hello house. I scanned my 2008 Honda Accord and this is the code that came up;

P0011

I cleared the code and drove again, and the code came back. Research online shows that I should have symptoms like rough idle and reduced acceleration, but I don't. Car idles well and accelerates fine.

I want to tell a mech to remove the vtc filter and clean, but I'm not sure and I don't want any unnecessary poking into my engine.

Pls any competent Honda mech in Ibadan?

kingreign:


Keep driving the car for a while and observing if the code comes back.

Okay, will do. Thank you

Dozieson:


The P0011 code could mean the two things in my Toyota,

1. Oil is not up to guage or dirty

2. The vvt solenoid is stucked maybe with silicon gum particles or sludge. I have to remove clean and test with battery head to see it movement before installing

Hello sir. The car is a Honda accord, not a Toyota.

jceesquare:

If your engine has sludge buildup in it.
You can ask your technician to clean the VTC strainer, clear code then drive around to see if the code come back.

The engine doesn't have sludge in it, I checked. I'll tell him to clean the vtc strainer though, thank you

Hello house.

My 2008 Honda Accord had a P2646 code and a P0011 code on it before I got it. Changed the oil and cleared the codes, and then I rescanned. Only the P0011 code came back after driving.

I'm not sure how to proceed from here, since oil has been changed and filter changed. Mechanic initially insisted on changing the rocker arm, but after code cleared and didn't come back, he hasn't said anything again.

Pls help, as I need to know exactly what to do. I don't want anyone poking around in my engine.

Edit: the car drives fine and idles well too. Just want to be sure I'm doing the right thing.

I also need spacers. If you have a reliable plug, pls plug me o.

michaelwilli:
theadeola Please update this thread. I'm enjoying it

Hehe. Thank you man.

Car is running very well now. The engine is a JDM engine, and so has a bit more hp than the usual 1zz fe engine. The remaining issues I want to sort out with the car aren't major, stuff like getting very bright bulbs, doing a thorough paint job and panelbeating, etc. I tinted the car not too long ago because of sun for madam, and it's given the car a different and cozy feel.

All in all, money well spent.

Location pls.

Please where can I get a new fuel pressure regulator for a 2003 toyota matrix? And any ideas about the price?

Grupo:


I think your engine is okay sha.

I also hear that particular clicking sound when I remove the plastic engine cover.

Better let your car be. Or you go give it to kazeem make them. Scatter for you.

No way. No kazeem will touch my engine.

Thank you for your input. I'll keep the car as is.

Thank

Grupo:


I don't understand, engine has moving parts na, it's supposed to make some noise.

Do you hear this particular noise when you are inside your car?

Not at all

Grupo:


What you are hearing is just the movement of your camshafts against the valves.

How's it annoying?

It wasn't there until about a week ago, or at least that's when I started noticing it. I thought it might fade or something, so I watched it for a week.

Still there, though car runs fine.

I just want a very quiet engine

Hello guys.

I have an annoying ticking sound at the top of my engine that is only audible when i take the black engine cover off. The car is a 2003 matrix.

I scanned the car for the ignition timing to know if the timing was the issue, but its not. Timing is fine, and I'm not sure what is causing this ticking sound. When i rev the car, the sound 'disappears' till the engine is back at normal idle speed. Oil color is golden brown, level is fine also.

Please what can be the issue?

Hello guys.

I have an annoying ticking sound at the top of my engine that is only audible when i take the black engine cover off. The car is a 2003 matrix.

I scanned the car for the ignition timing to know if the timing was the issue, but its not. Timing is fine, and I'm not sure what is causing this ticking sound. When i rev the car, the sound 'disappears' till the engine is back at normal idle speed. Oil color is golden brown, level is fine also.

Please what can be the issue?

nurey:
I bet the problem is from wrong engine. The 1zz 20f is different from normal 1zz, even information on it is limited. Try to check online about your issue I know one petrol head did a rswap

Okay.

Does this mean I have to order for a camshaft sensor that matches the engine type?

Thanks a lot.

Hi house.

I scanned my car recently, and it showed that my camshaft position sensor was not functioning properly. I had it changed and the socket checked, but it's still the same thing. A rewire checked the current in the wires with a tester and bulb, and the bulb kept on blinking.

The man said my ecu is not supplying enough current to the wires, and that I should change the ECU.

I want to know if he's right before proceeding. The code the scanner brought was P0340. The car is a 2003 Toyota matrix with a 1ZZ J20F engine (a jdm variant of the 1zz Fe)