Macmilla:

So I forgot to update this page.
I didn't burn my car.
So I figured out how to test a VTC solenoid while buying one.
You unplug the connector from the one in your engine and plug it to the new one you want to buy. And have someone start the engine and rev it a couple of times. As the engine is reved, watch the plunger in the solenoid as it lifts and drop smoothly. The movement must be smooth and move with the revving. If it's not moving, moves with jerks, hangs at any point, etc, so not buy.
So after buy a certified functional one, no more p0011 code for months now.

Pray tell, this is the vtc solenoid, right?

Macmilla:

Well, not constantly. More like occasionally. Only when I can't manage without AC. Economy is not smiling o. Besides, I'm still monitoring and accessing the car to know if I made a good decision by selling my V6 accord to get a 4cyl. My next test will be to know how many miles I can get with regular AC use.

Bro, can I get your WhatsApp number?

olurotimi:
200km/h , Abuja Airport Road, 2009 Lexus is250.

Haa! Uncle, na you drive chariot wey carry Elijah go heaven?

Nbg4real:
Have you solved the problem? I'm not experiencing the same case. In addition the slow goes to below 1 and the car off itself. Corolla 2012 spot

For yours, I'd advise that you scan and post codes here.

Rexology:
Hello! Experts in the house,

I have been using only water for my TOYOTA CAMRY 2005, after reading through this thread I would want to start using coolant.

Kindly recommend the coolant suitable for my car brand and model and how can I use it, bearing in mind that I have been using water only.

Thank you for your anticipated response.

Before you switch to coolant, have a technician check your radiator well. Because you've been running water alone for a long time, chances are that the radiator would have 'developed' rust, and switching to coolant will lead to leaks in the not-too-distant future.

You might need to get a replacement rad if you want this change to be a beneficial one in the long term.

Macmilla:

I actually got mine for next to nothing. I just went to a junkyard cos I didn't want to spend much money on it since I wasn't convinced it was the problem. I got and tested one as described. After confirming it still works, I cleaned it thoroughly and installed it and that was the end of p0011 for more than a mo th now. Car also doesn't seem like it consumes fuel cos I get roughly 400miles on one tanks.
I'll also like whoever has same engine (k24) to tell me what they get from o e tank.

My fuel consumption is in the gutter. Barely 200miles on a tank. Radiator fans factory, thermostat intact, etc. only code is the p0011.

Don't know if it can cause such a massive drop in consumption. Did you notice a drop in your fuel consumption when you had the code?

And do you drive with AC constantly?

Macmilla:

So I forgot to update this page.
I didn't burn my car.
So I figured out how to test a VTC solenoid while buying one.
You unplug the connector from the one in your engine and plug it to the new one you want to buy. And have someone start the engine and rev it a couple of times. As the engine is reved, watch the plunger in the solenoid as it lifts and drop smoothly. The movement must be smooth and move with the revving. If it's not moving, moves with jerks, hangs at any point, etc, so not buy.
So after buy a certified functional one, no more p0011 code for months now.

Good job restraining yourself from burning it

Oh, great. I've thought about this as the genesis of my own P0011 too. So I have to take the car to the seller then?

Pray tell, how much did you get yours?

temi4fash:
Good morning sirs

I noticed that when i use my car with AC for a very long time and it get very hot, the car begins to jack, vibrates inshort it would look the car is having a nervous breakdown.

During this time, if its on idle, the car sounds very fine. However, i engage it the gear on drive, it begins to vibrate and struggles to move.

What could be the wrong please?

Scan scan scan

otosa:
but do u have any mechanic at that Oyingbo?

Not at all. I'm in Ibadan, not lagos

otosa:
Please can you share me his number I want to take my Acura MDX 2009 there tomorrow for general check-up?

He's not a mechanic o. He's a part seller.

Anyway, here's his number: +234706 575 3660

Macmilla:

So, unfortunately, the evil p0011 came back today for no obvious reason after exactly 1 week of no codes. I'm beginning to think my village people are after me.
I tried to set the car on fire but I no get money for fuel as fuel don cost.

I think at this point, the ECU should be looked at.

VeryWickedGoat:
I love Erisco Foods for dealing with foolish women.

Your moniker already says a lot about you.

Macmilla:

Maybe like a Love Machine.
The balance shaft is on the oil pump and has to be in synchrony with the crank shaft. If it's not, then your engine turns into a vibrator. Any woman in this forum can explain better.

I definitely do not have this issue.

Macmilla:

This p0011 na witch. I still don't understand it.
But for diagnosis, the list below is the order to follow
1. Engine oil (low, old, or wrong thickness).
2. VTC strainer (blockage by dirt)
3. VTC solenoid (not working)
4. VTC actuator
5. Cam position sensor
6. Oil channels (if you open the VTC actuator and see fresh oil, then your channels are good.
7. Oil pump timing (if off, will cause vibrations as well)
8. ECU

If none of these fails to fix the code, just set the car on fire.

Abeg o. For this tinubu era.

No 1 is not an issue now, was an issue when I bought the car. Have done three oil changes since then, more frequent than normal, just to clean the insides of the engine as the previous owner was TERRIBLE with oil changes. Use the right oil weight currently.

Changed the vtc solenoid too, same thing. Vtc strainer was cleaned and returned, so also out.

As for the oil pump timing, I highly doubt this, as the engine is unopened and I have don't have any out of the ordinary vibration. But just to know, what kinds of vibrations will oil pump timing cause?

adanny01:


They either weld or put something inside to permanently lock it.

If P0011 always returns, Yes it is locked. You experience lack of power especially above 2500rpm and rough Idle

It's a bit inverse for me.

Yes, my p0011 always returns, but the engine looks unopened and I don't have a lack of power above 2500 rpm. If anything, the car shoots forward like a bullet once I reach 3000-3500 rpm.

My idle is also butter smooth.

Do you have any ideas about what can be wrong?

Macmilla:

Nah.
I'm in far-away Minna.
Do you need my kazeem skills?

Chei

Your kazeem skills would come in handy my brother

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

Are you by any chance in Ibadan?

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

For this tinubu era, no do am o.

Macmilla:

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

Co-ask abeg

Dahniyel:

Did you later resolve this? I'm having same issue on my 2009. Cleard the timing sensor and the code, and it still returned back.

Not yet. I've tried all I know, even replaced the sensor, but the code is still there. I've concluded to have the engine opened so the issue can be rectified, but I've not had time to take it to the mechanic.

wisestman:

The seller probably got a better offer while the buyer was away. He just wants the buyer to either pay or ask for a refund if the new price is not okay with him. I don't see any wrong doing. Buyer should ask for a refund if not happy

Really? Buyer has already paid. Price increase is no longer the buyer's business. If it was just an agreement and no payment, it's a different case. Not when payment has been made.

Camaro5:



1.8m

Bros

For this tinubu era

Ekakamba:
Have been here too. I was scared it was my CVT. Checked CVT fluid, well guaged. Drove for about 3 months like that before one small panel beater discover this and fixed it. Darn happy then that i gave him 5k.

I know the feeling man.

That panel go happy die!

Macmilla:

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

Well, currently the best idea is that since the accessories around that area have been checked (and their pulleys), then it's best to probably inspect the camshaft and timing chain very closely to reveal the culprit.


Listened to that video again, and my best guess would be that this has nothing to do with the actuator. It sounds more like excessive clearance of some components that are hitting each other.

Then, the chain might not be the right one, though chances of that are unlikely. Since I'm doing this remotely, a thorough check like I said earlier would be best.

Keep me posted on it too.

Macmilla:

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

Macmilla:

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

Do you have a scanner close by? If yes, check the idle target for the ECU. Staying at 1000 rpm is very unusual imo for your engine.

jceesquare:

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

This was my first thought too.

Macmilla:

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

Here's an idea; ask a technician to check the heat shields of your exhaust in front. Had a very annoying rattling sound when accelerating with my car and for a long time, I couldn't figure it out. Turned out it was a heat shield bolt and some weird resonance that caused it. The rattling then would only happen at 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm

Macmilla:

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

Idaok007:
Why do people go against you buying Honda as your first car?

Honda fans need your advice.

Because a Honda needs proper maintenance with the right fluids and parts. Do that, and you will thoroughly enjoy your Honda.

But most people, either through genuine lack or carelessness are not able to, and both them and their Honda suffer as a result.

Macmilla:

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Macmilla:

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.

Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?