₦airaland Forum

Amotolongbo:
The bird was weak after a royal rumble with a colleague for food, water, sex and/or space, you could not pity it, you still went on to make it deficient in plumages. God is watching you.

The best you could to to the bird is to let it go and congregate with its relatives. The bird isn’t a pet and can never be a pet. It has never been made a prisoner by any other biological specimen like you.

It will just die if you continue to hinder its freedom of association with its families

The man who saw tomorrow. kiki don kpoof finally... 😭

mctfopt:
My Mist Fan is now 6 years. Battery is long dead. Brand is Swan

Crazy thing, every thing still works including the mist feature, which I hardly use, as I've upgraded to AC.

Mist fans increases humidity, so it's best suited for low humidity areas or outdoors. If used indoors a lot, mould can start growing everywhere

bassdow:
Wonder when I started caring if anyOne likes me or not. Do I get paid for being LIKEd ? na Una sabi

Ok

earthrealm:
Yeah, the science checks out ok.
All panels in series gives you a loss of 12%,
3257watts max possible harvest
31.2volts...avg vmp
Imp...105a

all in parallel is 11.8% loss

Arranging all similar panels in series then paralleling them would hvv given you over 70% loss....i think this was where the myth of derating to the smallest panel comes from

I would have connected the 650s in series, 270s in 4p2s and series them with the Jinkos. That way the Imp should be closed matched as much as possible across the array.

bassdow:
AnyOne with very basic knowledge would tell you how Hybrid inverters are more efficient which is true. And sachet inverters are much more efficient than even the standard sized hybrid inverters.
All is good till they go bad; then you quickly realize probability of successful repairs often are low.

As for sachet inverter, that one is even worse. As in, they ain't really meant to be repaired to begin with.

Hence reason I always and often advocate for normal transformer based inverters.

Back in the days when the Naira wasn't as weak as it currently is; when cost of sachet inverters were reasonable, I could suggest one BUYs one while waiting to afford a New / Used standard sized inverter.
Even then, I never suggest anything above 1.5-Watts and at most 2. Anything above, just do yourself some good by getting the standard real thing.

But nowadays, with how weak the Naira is, and how unReasonably high the cost of a sachet inverter is, as a frugal person that I am, I wouldn't suggest sachet inverter to anyOne. You're better off buying a well USED inverter or a cheap used UPS than buy a sachet inverter; else it becomes a case of Penny wise Pounds foolish.

Because the moment it goes bad, na to throw way am. Just like you would when your Bluetooth earphones stops working. And they are quick to go bad.

So you see why I asked He doesn't. At end of the day, the only person who looses when things go awry is the client / customer.

Even some Used charge Controllers are more expensive than brand new ones of funny brands I see you guys advertising in here.

Have on several occasions, seen performance increase after replacing higher rated charge controllers with lower rated ones.

If Una like, make Una ignore the message because Una no like the messenger, na Una sabi.

RIP to GAZZUZZ. Wonder why the good ones don't last long.

Er, ok. I hear you. I think you reason for discouraging him from buying a sachet inverter is not cogent enough, IMO.

Any electronic equipment can go bad, and be repaired or not, depending on the extent of damage. I was expecting some sort of performance related issue as your reason.

I personally have used a sachet inverter for years without any single problem. Heck I've even had mine drenched in rain and somehow survived. I only got to know rain was reaching it where I thought it was safe the day I didn't go to work, it rained buckets and I decided to check how the inverter was holding up. I was so shocked that I tiptoed for fear the place might be live and switched off the inverter.

I started from 1000w/12v to my present 5000w/24v I use currently. Mind you I have used Schneider 1.5kva hybrid inverter before, also mercury UPS as inverter. Non of them gave me value as much as the sachet inverters.

Infact I had one sachet inverter zap when I mistakenly connected it's output to grid. It was repaired at Arena market, oshodi. I did the same mistake a second time unfortunately. The repairer said it could be repaired if I had wanted to,but the cost wasn't worth it anymore.

I have seen pure sachet inverter destroyed by thunder and another that just started misbehaving get repaired for way more affordable amounts that regular inverters would have costed.

Lastly nobody hates you, quit taking discussions here personal. No knowledge is a waste, and a stiff ego will deprive you of adding to your knowledge. Be open to criticism. Smile. 😊

Dam5reey:
Capacity Test...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK1d6hmMovk

The background musical drowned your voice.

odimbannamdi:
Very good question, brother. But I hope sey you no dey expect reasonable, practical and experience-based response from that bros... ...coz you fit wait tire o

When someone asked him why he has so much disdain for lithium battery technology, see the response he gave. You understand wetin him explain for there?

He will come and bandy words around in a bid to confuse you when he responds, but no panic, we dey with you...

Hahahahaa....let's not throw away the baby with the bath water already.

Agreed he has his unique perspective to some things, but he does have a good deal of understanding of how electronics work. I still await his response...

To be fair to the old man, he did say part of his tactics was to reduce the purchasing power of the people.

This he has done effectively.

COME 2027, I GO VOTE AM BACK O, SINCE WHEN SOME PEOPLE WARNED ABOUT HIM UNA NO LISTEN.

bassdow:
To account for inefficiencies, and days / times of bad weather, I would suggest the following

1pcs 300-watts Solar panel
1pcs 200AH / 220AH battery
1pcs 20 / 30 / 40+ Amps PWM charge controller
1pcs Inverter / UPS
Aluminium / Copper Cables depending on distance between roof and your setUp

Above are thee basics and all you require most times.

With regards to cost, you either go Brand New or USED depending on your budget.

If you plan upgrading later (most times you would even if you think you wouldn't), would suggest you buy a minimum of 40Amps charge Controller. if you can't easily afford an inverter (please don't buy sachet inverter. Not sure I would have time to give reasons), buy a used UPS and we in here would direct you on how to use it; that's if you don't already know.

Would really like to know why for the bolded.

ask4bk:
Using original jinko panels too 8x555w (4440w) and even at 11am I'm getting 4.1kw.
Those panels are just so good.
I've one that shattered during transportation and still producing good energy. I just used it to power one fridge, shikena.

Whereas my cworth 350w panels only give me like 160w each. Very poor.

Interesting. Are the cworth on the same plane as the Jinko

wirinet:
Yes it's still serving me well. I actually use it to run 4 shops attached together. Two shops house a betting shop with 6 computers, 12 monitors, 2 TVs and 2 ceiling fans. My office with I standing fan and a mini desktop computer and monitor.
The whole adugbo (area) also charge their phones, powerbanks, etc in the shops in times of prolong black outs.
I hardly use my generator except if nepa takes light for 2 days straight and the sun refuses to come out.

Awesome

wirinet:
N2 million then (that was October last year). Now you will require between N3 - N3.5 million to install the same configuration - 4kva and 12 nos. 15kw panels .

Is it still serving you? What's the experience been like?

Ithream:
Very true. I totally agree. I can’t regret my decision cos my money is invested. I just hope I can raise another money to get an inverter system soonest b4 the prices gets worse off.

Thanks for the advice though 🙏

But then one investment doesn't directly impact your present quality of life, which IMO should take priority over another that simply seeks to hedge against loss of value of funds.

I had a full solar installation done before I even bought a car. Why spend millions on an equipment that depreciates, I don't sleep in, and I can have other options if the need arises instead of something that actually helps me sleep better, work more effectively, and benefits everyone in the house always.

To me, i'ld rather be a solarlord first before a landlord anyday.

GloryJoyeux:
The advantage of my properly sized ess. It has been raining since morning, however the rain has just stopped for an hour but you can see that in that 1 hour of less than ideal solar irradiation, the inverter has been able to store 100ah into the battery. Now, surely the rain will continue in the next hour or two, but between now and that time, I would have a full charge. This is despite 5 days straight of daily rainfall, I still get 100 percent charge within the very few windows of sunshine when the rain stops then continues.

The other thing is to make sure you always use quality panels, you can see my jinko PV1 is producing 5,156w out of a rated 5,280w. PV2 is also producing similar and all these is with the heavy loads in the house turned on.

This your coloumbmetre de enter my eyes. But rx don make am cost like kilode.

GloryJoyeux:
Hello,

When sizing your system an energy consumption audit is one of the most crucial steps. I can see that you also listed the electrical loads you intend on carrying in a latter post. Although this is different from a comprehensive energy consumption audit, I will work with that figure.

Firstly, you must understand there is always a strong tendency to improve on a solar system after it has been installed so a lot of folks just go big from the get go if they are able to afford it.

A crucial question is: are you sure you really do not ever want to run that air conditioner? I’m asking because it seems like you really want it included, but the truth is, if you want it down the line, you will have to upgrade your system. Now, the ability to upgrade your system down the line is also a major advantage of residential ess, it means you can do what you can afford now and with time get to were you want it to be.

Answering your questions:

I will assumes you are comparing 48v batteries because using a 7.5kw inverter with anything less than 48v batteries system is poor design choice.

Battery size : Two paralleled 200ah battery is 51.2v x 400ah = 20kwh. That is over double the capacity of a single 7.5kwh battery. Both of these can power your air conditioner and other systems mentioned during the day with your 7.5kw inverter. However, at night, if you use the air conditioner with the 7.5kwh battery, you will quickly run out of stored energy. But the 20kwh battery will be more than enough to run your ‘inverter’ air conditioners over night.

By now I’m sure you are understanding the concept? Bigger batteries mean more energy stored for when there is no sunlight, it means longer run time of electrical load and means an extra day or two of autonomy.

Days of Autonomy : this is also a major factor when designing systems. In Nigeria right now we are at the raining season and this means poor solar yield. You therefore need to design a system that can go through at least a day of poor solar yield i.e. a full raining day where your batteries would just add 10 percent charge.

The larger 20kwh battery will enable you to plan 12kwh for the night, and the balance 8kwh for the next night incase there is poor solar yield due to rainfall.

The 7.5kwh battery means you will have to plan 4.5kwh for the night and 3kwh for the next night incase of poor solar yield.

Now, it all depends on energy consumption. Someone might be very okay on 7.5kwh inclusive of days of autonomy, while another will be okay with 20kwh, some have up to 90kwh as home ess.

Solar generation : I see you listed 4 units of 580w solar panels. This is 4 x 580w =2,320 W. Now, you must understand that you will hardly get a sustained 2,320w of solar yield. Always aim for 90 percent solar yield which is 0.9 x 2320w =2,088 W. Now you must consider inefficiencies when converting current and voltage to charge the batteries. Expensive inverters and solar charge controllers like those made by victron offer way higher conversion efficiency. But, most cheaper inverters we use offer poor efficiency. So let’s go with 85 percent conversion efficiency. We have 0.85 x 2088w=1,774.8 W. Since you battery is 51.2v, it will charge at average of 53v so we have, 1,774.8w / 53v = 33.4 amps.

Take note of the figure 33.4 amps. If you go with the 7.5kwh battery which is 150ah. It will take up to 150ah / 33.4amps = 4.5hrs sunlight to charge. Now notice if you go with the 20kwh battery which is 400ah it will take up to 400ah / 33.4amps = 12hrs sunlight to charge

This above is only accurate if you are not running a single day time load. Once you are running a load during the day eg your freezer is turned on. Then, your 1,774.8w from solar panel will need to power those loads first, before sending the balance to the battery, meaning you will be looking at 27amps or even just 25amps charging current.

Now, not all sunlight is equal. Just because it’s daytime doesn’t mean you will be generating such high sustained figures. For a fact, you can only expect such sustained performance all day only during the dry season in the south, except you are living up north in Nigeria.

We can therefore conclude that your solar panel is completely underpowered.

How to size your solar panels : I will give you my personal calculation that works for me always. If you are resident in the south of Nigeria, size your panels to fully charge your batteries with just 1.8hrs of sunlight i.e 1hr 48mins of sustained peak solar pv should charge your battery to full. If you are in the North use 2.5hrs of sunlight for your calculation.

This means that, to size your panels divide your total battery capacity by 1.8 if you live in the south and 2.5 if you live in the north. So 20kwh battery / 1.8 = 11,000w total panels and 7.5kwh battery / 1.8 = 4,160w total panels.

I can assure you, if you size your panels this way and factor in days of autonomy for battery size. Come rain come sun, out of 365 days a year, you will always get full charge for a minimum of 340 days. The remaining less than 25days which translates to 4 times a month in the rainy season, you can expect minimum of 50 percent charge.

Regarding questions 2 and 3. Do not buy from some alaba marketers, to be safe just go straight to their official distributors and buy from them. I have seen situations where they print new stickers with higher capacity and paste on their batteries to deceive unsuspecting customers. Do you research and ensure you purchase from the right source or you will not get value for your money. For the inverter part, you can maybe google search the name of the inverter and add words like ‘repair’ , ‘fault’ , ‘common issues’, ‘problems’ and see if you can find any known issues documented online. This is a neat trick for researching any electrical device you intend to buy.

*sorry for any typos, I didn’t proofread this.

Crash course on solar sizing. Good job.

Judithjovial:
1000wh 12.8V

Looks like a good deal of the load is around 150w. Although the panels and PV controller specs is very small. It will be good for like a small kiosk or shop, during the day use. Or a student room for laptop, TV, maybe rechargeable fans.

bbally:
@valto can works something for you on 12v system. Like 12v/100ah lithium with sachet inverter and charger for 400k. Talk to him

What of solar?

Ithream:
Nobody is answering me, I guess I must have asked a stupid question

😂..it's not a stupid question, rather very optimistic. Your budget will get you a small power Bank at best. If your power needs exceeds that, then you need to reassess your budget.

Youngzedd:
Any review on cworth Lifepo4 battery?

I am looking for a good quality Lifepo4 battery brand that's not felicity.

I've installed cworth panels and inverters for clients, with zero complaints so far. I just got another 4kw hybrid for a client I'm about to install for soon. I have link to their office in alaba, Incase you need their product at close to factory price.

DIVINEEVIDENCE:
Solar installers in the house, abeg how much would it cost me to set up a 750W solar system?

That's like a 1kva system. For the most basic with 1kWp solar and a 220Ah/12v tubular battery. You need around 1m, give it take.

Judithjovial:
There's a 800W Solar Generator like this with Foldable panel of 200w from Skymaxy Global. Goes for ₦550,000

What's the battery capacity?

kristien4:
Why do you have a 5000litre Geepee tank, you dey rear fish??

😂

tetralogyfallot:
I sell

How much?

Olumighty123:
I did turned off everything and then cleared the error, I then proceeded to turning on the appliances one by one, now it's stable. Is there any chances it could go back to the BP mode? It's 2 tall turbular batteries 220ahms each, 3.5kva hybrid inverter.. the load rating doesn't go beyond 800watts, the batteries now reads between 26.8 to 27.5volt, it's a bet9ja shop. Just small tvs and computers.

Check and ensure the batteries are getting charged well via the settings both in controller and the inverter if there is AC supply.

Betnomore:
Dem dey sell ooo my oga. Na for fraudulent use shaaa. Na so hunger hold me that year I sell my Facebook for 10k oooo.

Eewo... 😂

Bobodee09:
11yrs Old Twitter account for sale. (Opened in 2013)

Contact +234 904 193 2128 whatsapp if interested.

Dem de sell Twitter account? 👀

My own don old oh, how much una de buy am

OmejeGuy:
Still available

Pictures.

Can you do pay on delivery?

Olumighty123:
I still need help with this biko🙏

Your monicker looks familiar. You may need to take it to the company. Go through the manual and see if there the list of error codes has this one and gives a reason for it.

ksmart027:
Sorry to ask boss, using 20a mppt charge controller, can i connect two of these panels in series?

If their series voltage is below the controller max input voltage, then yes. But if it's for 12v system, you will be losing a lot of solar energy generated.

Queed:
Wow! So good you understand that they push current for some fraction of seconds and stop, it will make the explanation easier!

Now lets look it this way, picture both a pwm controller and a buck converter having 4 terminals, 2 input from the solar panel, 2 outputs to the battery. Assuming that all negative terminals are connected together (this is not usually the case but for simplicity sake), and for the positive termins, connected as such:

Case Pwm controller:
Positive from panel, to electronic switch (FET or likes) then to positive battery terminal.
When switch is closed, it pushes current to battery for some fraction of a second and current stops to flow immediately the switch is open, then repeat s for the next cycle.
So in this case we have a 'current is flowing and a current stops flowing' for each cycle (mind you we could have tens of thousands of such cycles in a sec)

Case Buck Converter:
Positive from panel, to electronic switch (FET or likes) then to an inductor, then capacitor, finally the positive battery terminal.
When switch is closed, current flows from the panel through the switch, the trough the inductor before finally arriving at the battery (which is in parallel with the capacitor), but when the switch is now open ehh, you see that high voltage gap you always crave for when you're selecting an mppt controller, together with the current the was previously flowing when the switch was closed, would have caused a corresponding amount of energy to be stored in the inductor within that time, which will now be released to the battery now that the switch is open..

So in this case, you close switch, battery dey charge, inductor too dey charge (from excess voltage) , then switch open, inductor start to the dey discharge itself inside the battery, at every point in time, current dey flow enter the battery.. you get the point now?

Without the excess voltage, your MPPT/buck is as good as a pwm controller or even worse as there must be losses through the inductor, some MPPT will bypass this inductor in such case.

Regards.

Explained it perfectly. Abeg, I wan come learn work o. 😊

Iinnov8:
There is no way he will quote you for 10mm2 and use 16mm2. Just ensure he gets and uses what he quotes you for so that you get maximum value for your money and your system works well

Also, please, be sure of the source of your panels. It makes a whole lot of significant difference as it will determine the quality of your harvest. I personally will advise that you buy from Fouani and get it right from the get-go

I can get him new 450w panels (with screen cracks), 3pcs for 210k. Or non relabelled, used panels. But the used panels may be close to what others are quoting for new panels.

Those cracked panels are a life saver, but some people still don't get it.

dollarnaira:
Well, it will serve you depending on your loads.

3000w Satchet nverter + powmr cc(old version) = roughly 200k

Solar panels = 600w ( 300w ×2)
= Jinko 440w × 2 = 248k

LifePO4 12v 300k roughly.

Cable : hmmmm used 8core pure copper Ethernet cable.

Output on a good day is 16a to 26a without cable getting hot.

The above is my set up apart from the Jinko and am off-grid with sense ni oo. The most important appliance is the freezer.

So prioritize you load and enjoy free energy.

Dont copy some people here ooo these guys pluck money on trees.

@bolded. You split them into 2 pairs of 4 wires each? What's their rates amp capacity, or gauge?