remi4ever:
Hey everyone, my car's RPM stays constant when the AC is on or off while it's in drive, and it vibrates even more when it's in reverse. This decrease in RPM when the AC is on leads to vibrations, despite no check engine light being on. I've already had the throttle body serviced, and all my engine mounts are fine. It's a Honda Accord 2009 with a 2.0L engine.

Hello, you may need to check you engine mounts again since it only vibrates on Reverse especially the small mounts beneath the gear.
Also, your AC compressor may be a manual compressor which may cause your car to vibrate when turned ON.

Turn off your AC and check again...engage the reverse and drive gear and check if it still vibrates.

kelvinmnet:


Hello, you may need to check you engine mounts again since it only vibrates on Reverse especially the small mounts beneath the gear.
Also, your AC compressor may be a manual compressor which may cause your car to vibrate when turned ON.

Turn off your AC and check again...engage the reverse and drive gear and check if it still vibrates.

Without AC on reverse the vibration is minimal. I recently changed the top transmission mount. I have been meaning to check the lower mounts too.

Thanks for your response.

remi4ever:


Without AC on reverse the vibration is minimal. I recently changed the top transmission mount. I have been meaning to check the lower mounts too.

Thanks for your response.

Then your AC compressor may be the culprit, its probably a manual compressor.
I am able to analyze this because I use a 2007 accord and same thing happens.

kelvinmnet:


Then your AC compressor may be the culprit, its probably a manual compressor.
I am able to analyze this because I use a 2007 accord and same thing happens.

Replace your ac compressor back to the original one and your wahala will fly out of the window. Trust me.

https://www.nairaland.com/8065335/maintenance-tips-toyota-cars

.

kelvinmnet:


Then your AC compressor may be the culprit, its probably a manual compressor.
I am able to analyze this because I use a 2007 accord and same thing happens.

How can you tell? I'll look it up, but I want a firsthand experience.

remi4ever:


How can you tell? I'll look it up, but I want a firsthand experience.

I use a 2007 Accord (DC) and I have same issue. My friend uses same car and has same issue.
Once the ac is ON, you'll feel the vibration and heaviness of the vehicle.

I asked a couple of AC technicians at ladipo and other places, they explained that the manual compressor is the cause.
Manual compressors gets very cold immediately you turn them ON but the automatic compressor takes time to build up till it becomes very cold

My previous car, Camry muscle had an automatic compressor. I didn't feel the vibration but the ac takes time to get cold but once cold....its very cold.

kelvinmnet:


I use a 2007 Accord (DC) and I have same issue. My friend uses same car and has same issue.
Once the ac is ON, you'll feel the vibration and heaviness of the vehicle.

I asked a couple of AC technicians at ladipo and other places, they explained that the manual compressor is the cause.
Manual compressors gets very cold immediately you turn them ON but the automatic compressor takes time to build up till it becomes very cold

My previous car, Camry muscle had an automatic compressor. I didn't feel the vibration but the ac takes time to get cold but once cold....its very cold.

Thanks Bro. Mine is even more evident because for a large Sedan, my car uses a 2.0L engine.

cardoctor:


Replace your ac compressor back to the original one and your wahala will fly out of the window. Trust me.

https://www.nairaland.com/8065335/maintenance-tips-toyota-cars

.

All accords up to 2011 used the manual compressor from factory

remi4ever:


Thanks Bro. Mine is even more evident because for a large Sedan, my car uses a 2.0L engine.

Oga your vibrations can come from either one of the following 4 places in scale of most recurrent

1. Bad engine mounts

2. Bad IACV

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump

Check which it is and fix

Cc kelvinmnet

Conner44:


Oga your vibrations can come from either one of the following 4 places in scale of most recurrent

1. Bad engine mounts

2. Bad IACV

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump

Check which it is and fix

Cc kelvinmnet

.. Wawuuu.. I'll check all these in the order that they appear. I was looking for the IACV on the throttle body I didn't find it. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong place.

Conner44:


Oga your vibrations can come from either one of the following 4 places in scale of most recurrent

1. Bad engine mounts

2. Bad IACV

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump

Check which it is and fix

Cc kelvinmnet

I forgot to add, my Belt tensioner is loose. The Hole where the knot is supposed to go is stripped. I'm scared of these guys removing the engine, because that's the only way they can retread it.

Could that also contribute to the vibration?

I think I will check the throttle body again for the IACV and clean it, I will also check the lower mounts.

I'm not so sure about the harmonic balancer.

remi4ever:

I forgot to add, my Belt tensioner is loose. The Hole where the knot is supposed to go is stripped. I'm scared of these guys removing the engine, because that's the only way they can retread it.

Could that also contribute to the vibration?

I think I will check the throttle body again for the IACV and clean it, I will also check the lower mounts.

I'm not so sure about the harmonic balancer.

At the bolded above concerning your tensioner, I doubt its issues will contribute as much vibration as having each of the other 4 options I listed above.

Harmonic balancer issues can arise if you've ever had a timing chain work done in the past.

Engine mounts have China and tokumbo. Using China mounts in strategic locations will always give vibrations. Use proper original mounts always to eliminate this. The mounts that cause vibrations on idle are mostly the engine side ones, the mounts that cause thumps on gear changes are mostly the transmission side ones.

If your throttle body is electronic I'd advise you just replace it. Especially if you're sure of all other options being ticked off.

repair the stripped tensioner soon to avoid getting broken bolts along your other serpentine belt driven components

Conner44:


At the bolded above concerning your tensioner, I doubt its issues will contribute as much vibration as having each of the other 4 options I listed above.

Harmonic balancer issues can arise if you've ever had a timing chain work done in the past.

Engine mounts have China and tokumbo. Using China mounts in strategic locations will always give vibrations. Use proper original mounts always to eliminate this. The mounts that cause vibrations on idle are mostly the engine side ones, the mounts that cause thumps on gear changes are mostly the transmission side ones.

If your throttle body is electronic I'd advise you just replace it. Especially if you're sure of all other options being ticked off.

I usually purchase tokunbo.

I suspect my transmission side mounts, I can hear some faint thump when I brake or the car downshifts. This car was bought new in Nigeria, and none of the mounts except the top one was bad which I've changed. I'll check the bottom tranny mount tomorrow. Also, the engine hasn't been opened before, neither is the gear. As for the throttle body, It doesn't throw any code and car moves well, so i doubt. The IACV is on the throttle body right?

Thank you so much for your time.

remi4ever:


I usually purchase tokunbo.

I suspect my transmission side mounts, I can hear some faint thump when I brake or the car downshifts. This car was bought new in Nigeria, and none of the mounts except the top one was bad which I've changed. I'll check the bottom tranny mount tomorrow. Also, the engine hasn't been opened before, neither is the gear. As for the throttle body, It doesn't throw any code and car moves well, so i doubt. The IACV is on the throttle body right?

Thank you so much for your time.

Yes it's somewhere on there.

Good morning car gurus on the house.
I use a 2008 accord 4 cylinder as my daily car.

Last week Wednesday and Thursday, I discovered oil leaks where I parked overnight. I took the car to a ram and we checked under. He said the power steering rack is bad and the leaks came from the driver side rubber boot covering.

He advised that I change the power steering rack. I have bought a tokunbo rack for 55k.

My confusion now is that since last week Friday, the leaking has stopped completely, and the power steering reservoir level has not gone down one bit. The steering system is working perfectly with no noise whatsoever.

I don't feel like changing the rack because of so many things they have to dismantle to remove the bad one. I am always scared of my car being piecesed by mechanics because they tend not to return the components to how they met it.....like one may end up with problem B while trying to fix problem A.

Please advise on what the leak could possibly be, because I have checked the atf and brake oil, they are both at the usual levels. Thank you.

234GT:
Good morning car gurus on the house.
I use a 2008 accord 4 cylinder as my daily car.

Last week Wednesday and Thursday, I discovered oil leaks where I parked overnight. I took the car to a ram and we checked under. He said the power steering rack is bad and the leaks came from the driver side rubber boot covering.

He advised that I change the power steering rack. I have bought a tokunbo rack for 55k.

My confusion now is that since last week Friday, the leaking has stopped completely, and the power steering reservoir level has not gone down one bit. The steering system is working perfectly with no noise whatsoever.

I don't feel like changing the rack because of so many things they have to dismantle to remove the bad one. I am always scared of my car being piecesed by mechanics because they tend not to return the components to how they met it.....like one may end up with problem B while trying to fix problem A.

Please advise on what the leak could possibly be, because I have checked the atf and brake oil, they are both at the usual levels. Thank you.

If the leakage has stopped and your PS is working well, then why change it? But have it in mind that if it leaked once, it can leak again. I'll advice you pack the steering rack you already got in your packing store and enjoy your car. Continue enjoying it till whenever the steering rack starts acting obviously. Don't pursue what is not pursuing you just because you can afford it.

Conner44:


Oga your vibrations can come from either one of the following 4 places in scale of most recurrent

1. Bad engine mounts

2. Bad IACV

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump

Check which it is and fix

Cc kelvinmnet

These point listed are possible causes though...

1. Bad engine mounts
Very possible

2. Bad IACV
The IAC valve should affect the RPM even at idle speed without engaging the transmission. This controls the Idle Air and will be very unstable. Not sure this applies to his situation here.

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration
Not aware where this is located, will look it up.

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump
I know this is popularly called 'WEIGHT'. I knew about this in Camry muscle. If this weight in removed or not properly set, ull hear a loud noise while in motion from the engine. Am not sure all cars have this weight in them.
Any heads up on this?

234GT:
Good morning car gurus on the house.
I use a 2008 accord 4 cylinder as my daily car.

Last week Wednesday and Thursday, I discovered oil leaks where I parked overnight. I took the car to a ram and we checked under. He said the power steering rack is bad and the leaks came from the driver side rubber boot covering.

He advised that I change the power steering rack. I have bought a tokunbo rack for 55k.

My confusion now is that since last week Friday, the leaking has stopped completely, and the power steering reservoir level has not gone down one bit. The steering system is working perfectly with no noise whatsoever.

I don't feel like changing the rack because of so many things they have to dismantle to remove the bad one. I am always scared of my car being piecesed by mechanics because they tend not to return the components to how they met it.....like one may end up with problem B while trying to fix problem A.

Please advise on what the leak could possibly be, because I have checked the atf and brake oil, they are both at the usual levels. Thank you.

You need to be sure it's the rack that's leaking oo. Currently, am battling with an issue on my 2007 Accord. Sometime ago, I saw oil leak on the floor by the driver side.

I check and saw oil around the tranny and on the beam. Mechanic checked and said steering rack was leaking. We repaired the rack, steering is fine but there is still oil leak. I just tire.

Mech checked again and said there's still oil leak from tranny seal or the tranny cable as the source of the leak could not be ascertained.

Tranny cable seal was checked and it was dry, no leak.
Shaft seal was replaced, there was still oil leak.
Changed shaft seal again with a different mech and trying to assume the first seal wasn't done right, same noni. Tranny is working and selecting fi e, just the oil leak.

Right now, I am just tired and in a fix. The car no just hungry me drive again. The stress too much.

Later dem say I should change the complete shaft that the shaft there is for Civic.

That's the next plan right now. Hoping to do that by this weekend. Called market and they said complete shaft for driver side is 30k.

Please house, what's could be the possible cause of this issue, Abeg ooo

kelvinmnet:


You need to be sure it's the rack that's leaking oo. Currently, am battling with an issue on my 2007 Accord. Sometime ago, I saw oil leak on the floor by the driver side.

I check and saw oil around the tranny and on the beam. Mechanic checked and said steering rack was leaking. We repaired the rack, steering is fine but there is still oil leak. I just tire.

Mech checked again and said there's still oil leak from tranny seal or the tranny cable as the source of the leak could not be ascertained.

Tranny cable seal was checked and it was dry, no leak.
Shaft seal was replaced, there was still oil leak.
Changed shaft seal again with a different mech and trying to assume the first seal wasn't done right, same noni. Tranny is working and selecting fi e, just the oil leak.

Right now, I am just tired and in a fix. The car no just hungry me drive again. The stress too much.

Later dem say I should change the complete shaft that the shaft there is for Civic.

That's the next plan right now. Hoping to do that by this weekend. Called market and they said complete shaft for driver side is 30k.

Please house, what's could be the possible cause of this issue, Abeg ooo

This oil leak of a thing ehn.
I'm currently battling it on my Honda baby boy the gear oil leaked and the guy told me it's from the "Gear oil cup seal" I can't remember the exact grammar so he bought the seal and fixed it, drove for some days and noticed the leakage again from same place.
I'm just tired and I need that car because it's fuel efficient unlike the highlander that drink fuel like water.
Is it that the oil seal he bought is not good enough or what?

Good day everyone.

Please I would like to know the price of the following items for Honda Accord 2010.

Master brake replacement
Power steering replacement
Catalyst
Kick starter

I want to compare it with the price my mechanic will quote

XPaul:
Good day everyone.

Please I would like to know the price of the following items for Honda Accord 2010.

Master brake replacement
Power steering replacement
Catalyst
Kick starter

I want to compare it with the price my mechanic will quote

Go to the market.

Macmilla:

Go to the market.

🤣🤣🤣😂😂

Dream2:


This oil leak of a thing ehn.
I'm currently battling it on my Honda baby boy the gear oil leaked and the guy told me it's from the "Gear oil cup seal" I can't remember the exact grammar so he bought the seal and fixed it, drove for some days and noticed the leakage again from same place.
I'm just tired and I need that car because it's fuel efficient unlike the highlander that drink fuel like water.
Is it that the oil seal he bought is not good enough or what?

The seal is most likely not good.
Yesterday, I was able to successfully stop the oil leak after buying another shaft and seal. I am still monitoring and praying the leak doesn't reoccur.

I sell original Castrol Lubricants, for those who might be interested. I saw a few posts about how unsure they are on where to get one.

kelvinmnet:


The seal is most likely not good.
Yesterday, I was able to successfully stop the oil leak after buying another shaft and seal. I am still monitoring and praying the leak doesn't reoccur.

Changed the seal yesterday as well for the driver's side and the leak still persist albeit from the other side after I test drive it so I changed the passengers side seal and it stopped because some have being telling me it's the oil pump inside the gear that's faulty which to me sounds scary.

Hopefully I pray that will be the end of it.

Macmilla:

Run from that olodo you call mechanic.
Note that reinstalling the thermostat alone will not stop the "always on fan". You have to also locate the wiring abuse and revert it. Check the ECT sensor at the base of the radiator. That is most likely the location of the abuse.

Thank you

Conner44:


At the bolded above concerning your tensioner, I doubt its issues will contribute as much vibration as having each of the other 4 options I listed above.

Harmonic balancer issues can arise if you've ever had a timing chain work done in the past.

Engine mounts have China and tokumbo. Using China mounts in strategic locations will always give vibrations. Use proper original mounts always to eliminate this. The mounts that cause vibrations on idle are mostly the engine side ones, the mounts that cause thumps on gear changes are mostly the transmission side ones.

If your throttle body is electronic I'd advise you just replace it. Especially if you're sure of all other options being ticked off.

repair the stripped tensioner soon to avoid getting broken bolts along your other serpentine belt driven components

Cc kelvinmnet

Please what's the local name for the IACV??

This is the only thing I can see that fits that name..
Pardon my ignorance.

Modified
This is the purge control solenoid valve Honda

We opened the throttle body according to a video, but no IACV found. my car is originally called Honda Inspire, because the engine bay is different from the regular evil spirit

remi4ever:
We open the throttle body according to a video, but no IACV found. my car is originally called Honda Inspire, because the engine bay is different from the regular evil spirit

Chai! Bro, all Hondas (and most others) that use drive-by-wire do not use IAC valve. The computer controls the idle through the throttle actuator. So a separate IAC valve is not needed.

Macmilla:

Chai! Bro, all Hondas (and most others) that use drive-by-wire do not use IAC valve. The computer controls the idle through the throttle actuator. So a separate IAC valve is not needed.

God bless you o, i don Google tire...

In this case, how do I deal with the rpm issue that falls to 500rpm when my car is idle and ac is on?

Since there's no IACV to clean or change.

remi4ever:


God bless you o, i don Google tire...

In this case, how do I deal with the rpm issue that falls to 500rpm when my car is idle and ac is on?

Since there's no IACV to clean or change.

I may be wrong o but I feel your AC compressor is the issue.
Does your car emit black smoke? You can check the tail pipe.
When I changed my engine at Oyingbo, the mechanic washed the manifold with petrol and also the ejector mouth and this helped. My car runs on a little above 500rpm on idle with ac ON and it functions well.

kelvinmnet:


I may be wrong o but I feel your AC compressor is the issue.
Does your car emit black smoke? You can check the tail pipe.
When I changed my engine at Oyingbo, the mechanic washed the manifold with petrol and also the ejector mouth and this helped. My car runs on a little above 500rpm on idle with ac ON and it functions well.

My AC compressor is factory fitted. Still works fine. I have cleaned the injector mouth as well. No black smoke at all.