Cry cry baby… so you do not want to do business with me anymore? LOL. do I wish to do business with someone like you too? I am not pulling down any review because that is exactly what happened. Take a lawyer and sue me if you think I lied and all the evidence will come out. Do you have pictures of the two pieces of cable you sent to me?
Is my roof the first roof you are damaging on Nairaland?
Am I the first client to have issues with you here? If you want me to do a search of the other clients you damaged their roof, I will post proof.
So what is new? A simple search of your antecedents will tell prospective clients what they need to know.
I wanted you to feel the pain and anger I felt when you insulted me on top of my money and patronage for no fault of mine. I see you have felt it now so I am satisfied.
you have gotten pound of his flesh and is still not okay for you?
It's 4 weeks now @chichilas wrote a defamation of character review on google that
1) I stole his cable 2) I damaged his roof
I will like to update the house that he has received additional cables since 3wks ago, was called and he confirmed he received his cable
Secondly he never told me anything about a leaking roof since around 2019 we installed for him. There have been several modifications on the said installation by other installers which I have also offered support remotely. We have spoken several times on the phone nothing of a leaking roof was mentioned. He suddenly remembers his roof is leaking towards the end of 2023. No evidence and nothing.
Since he still have issues with the cables, I have since then requested he sends the cables back to us and get a refund which he is unwilling to do and I don't know why.
@chichillas also @theoilguy is very toxic and I don't wish to do business with him furthermore.
Tell him to pull down his false review. I did not steal his cable and did not damage his roof.
I hope nairaland mods will one day do something about defamation of character.
@mynd44
he will need to retract the review because it is very obvious he is on mission to tarnish your image. I will suggest you cancel the deal
sintolord: Na everybody dey do yahoo? If they can not afford expensive inverter/battery/panel, will you be happy if they invade your house & loot everything in it so they can afford it? You are meant to encourage people to buy what they can afford which is still good enough to do the job. How many can afford Deye or Victron product? How many can afford to live in Lekki or Ikoyi? How many can afford a 2023 car or Jeep?
I am sorry but that is BS. I am not a pro but in my quest to build a solar system I have had to watch a lot of YouTube videos, read a lot of solar forums and followed this section on Nairaland as it is clear there is a lot of cowboys, quackery, ignorance, misinformation and “anyhowness” in the Nigerian solar space, this is even before those who just want your money and will tell you anything to get it. I have been to a well known solar installer with its own OEM branded axpert products that couldn’t tell me the brand of lifepo4 cells in the lithium batteries they sell.
Cells are either Certified Automotive grade or they are rejected cells. Any rejected cell is a grade B cell. Once you are dealing with rejected cells (which could be rejected for a number of reasons) you are on your own. They may be cells good enough for home storage but not for the automotive demands or they may be outright bad cells.
1. QR code means nothing as they are faked 2. Eve started stamping their Rejected cells with “B” grade on the QR code but Chinese resellers have found a way to “remove” the “B” stamp. B does not mean a cell is bad, however the problem with B is that it can be good or it can be bad. Most A cells on the market are B cells, so they could be good or they could be bad. 3. That a cell tests ok for capacity does not mean it is a good cell. Many cells will test ok for capacity but will drop voltage under load. Just like a bad lead acid battery, it depends on the load on it. I will post a video below highlighting this. 4. Your battery is only as good as the worst cell in your pack. If there is one bad cell it will bring the whole battery down. 5. There is nothing wrong with the better “B” grade cells for ESS (which people falsely call A- or outrightly sell as “A” but you need the r Test reports so you know what you are dealing with or test them individually and match them for voltage, capacity and internal resistance. Otherwise the cells start to deviate as you charge aand discharge due to different internal resistances of the cells and before you know it the individual cell voltages go out of whack, your BMS is shutting off charging or discharging because one cell is hitting low or high cut off voltage before the others and you are not getting the available capacity you have despite having the capacity. Cells with different internal resistance will discharge at different rates to each other. So you see it is not just about putting cells together with the same capacity. We need to know what the internal resistance of the cells put together are…hence the need for matching. 6. What you need for any cell is the manufacturers test report. Do not buy a cell from anyone without a manufacturers test report. You need that to match the cells in a pack. QR code even if legit is meaningless on It’s own. what you need to assemble a battery is consistency/matching of the cells so the cells charge and discharge in unison. 7. When you see a battery with a recommended continuous charge/discharge rate of less than .5c it is a sign the battery contains poor grade cells. The popular lithium batteries beginning with “F” is an example of this. If you check the specs of reputable batteries like pylontech or BYD. You will see they are .5c continuous. There is a reason they cost more. Also a sign of poor grade cells is when a battery has its cut off voltages limited in the BMS or you are restricted to 80% capacity to keep the cells in the flat range where the voltages will not diverge due to inconsistent cells. 8. Again the overwhelming majority of these batteries are not certified grade A but some can be used so long as they are matched for capacity and internal resistance and for peace of mind you need the manufacturers test report. QR code means nothing when putting cells together. I was watching a YouTube video only yesterday of a guy in the US who actually makes and sells batteries and he says even from his reliable Chinese cell supplier, sometimes 4 out of 16 cells will be bad cells and if you are buying from these suppliers buy 20 if you need 16. Unfortunately I can’t find the video. 9. If a cell is not certified automotive grade, it is a “B” cell. If it is certified automotive grade, it will have a manufacturers test report. There are good “B” cell, many reputable battery manufacturers assemble good reliable batteries with “b” cells after carefully matching them and many resellers would the world a lot of good if they just say these are good “b” cells with the matching documentation and test reports. The minute someone is telling me a cell is “A” grade A- or whatever and has no test report, he is either ignorant or lying to me. Every cell whether A or B has a test report. If it has no test report you have to ask why is your reseller not willing to show you the test report. Assume any cell without a test report is a B cell because if you have a true “a” grade cell you won’t need to ask before you are shown.
When you tell them your price they will run to the other person. And when the real experience of poor quality comes after the sweetness of low price, they will come there to generalize.
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