₦airaland Forum

Rumplesteelskin:
Right. I have updated the initial post.

Update: Following AndroBlaze suggestion, I combined sources, my inverter charger (30a), external 24v lithium battery charger (20a), and PV (under 10a, it's a rainy day), and I was able to fully charge the battery. It took almost 6 hours of consistent charging at roughly 60a. Now sitting pretty at 29.2v and floating back and forth.

Now it's time to test its full capacity.

Thanks to all that contributed.

bassdow:
When we get to the Alpha stage of such battery Chemistry, another round of people would come to talk down on all previous battery chemistry as being rubbish and not worth it. They would disRegard the issues with the Salt based battery, and focus on only the Good sides of it

Rumplesteelskin:
Thanks for the follow up. Yes, I did. After it went off at 20.8v, I disconnected the battery and used an external 20a charger to charge, and I arrived at a different conclusion. The battery recommended charge current is 40a and all my power sources are under 40, 30a mostly. I figured the battery require serious charge current from 26.4v upward and my charging sources can't provide that. From 26.5 to 26.6 takes almost an hour with the 20a charger. With this charger, I would need like 14 hours for a full charge.

My options now are either to upgrade the inverter to one that charges from 40a and above, or get an external charger above 40a.

ask4bk:
Now permit me to sincerely seek your advice.
Would you advice me to constantly run my deep freezer, refrigerator, occasional washing machine and blender on the 6kw Growatt inverter (from fouani) in a dusty environment of far northern Nigeria with constant 40ºc temperature?

If you think it's OK, I'll get it. If not, give me a better alternative.

Mrreed:
Prices remain the same or lower.
12v 3.5kwh 430k wooden, 440k plastic
12v 4kwh 445k wooden, 455k plastic
24v 7.1kwh 840k wooden, 900k metal
24v 8kwh 870k wooden, 930k metal
48v 14.3kwh 1620, metal case 1.720m

BigDickProblems:
I can’t argue with you sef, cos you’ve been here long b4 I even developed interest in Solar.

I'm more of the typical theory guy, who was the best in physics back then in Sec School.

BigDickProblems:
Yes it’s true, I know that as well. The statement does not oppose Li-ion, but do you see Li-ion in that high capacity range (20Ah, 23Ah, 50Ah etc) like LifePo4? I guess the answer is no. It’s not common to see them, not like they don’t exist.

This is also obvious in this thread, because a lot builders here uses 3.2Ah or a little above capacity. If there were 20Ah Li-ion cells around, nobody will have that luxury of time to weld 644 cells when you can easily do so with just 8cells. Haba. This is why I said that LifePo4 contains high capacity in small body.

bkuranga:
No, I have these 8KWH build.
Maybe I can retry this and see if it will work this time.

BigDickProblems:
I prefer LifePo4 battery to Li-ion battery for so many reasons:
-they can contain much larger capacity in a small body.
-Their connection is not hectic compared to you welding 644 cells of Li-ion batteries, especially when you can achieve such with just 8 cells of LifePo4 like you did.
-Fire safety
-lasts longer etc.


But Bro can you show us an image of your output (discharge) and input (charge) connections if it possible.

The bolded in theory is not correct. Lion are more energy dense than Lifepo batteries and if the same materials are used to construct them, the Lion will have less weight and give more power.

This is one of the main reasons they were so popular in mobile phones before fast charging led to a lot of them exploding

Rumplesteelskin:
This is close to what I tried earlier but I will take a run at it again. Thanks much!

bkuranga:
No, I see no difference.

ask4bk:
The bolded letters seemed like you are shouting at me. Calm down.
I may have made a quick less informed mention of Deye and SRNE, but I know for a fact that Growatt in the USA is seen as a poor alternative to better inverters. They get very bad reviews generally over the years. Because of the 120v output? I don't know, but it's not considered a good brand. But we praise it here as one of the best.

emekam12:
Please experts in the house do I need to have DC breaker between inverter and battery?Most of the set ups I see don't have it but my Installer said it is necessary.

If it is very necessary should it be 1 pole or 2 pole Dc breaker? My battery is 200ah Lifepo4 battery.

dollarnaira:
Home 247 why?

Lol, you will become the sacrificial lamb and take the place of the BMS noni

But yes, if you set everything proper, you can get away with it.

favouredbymercy:
By direct cells do you mean using the battery pack bare? Are there people using their battery pack bare with no issues?

bkuranga:
I attempted this today.
Inverter isn't coming up, not sure I hit the BMS LVD, but I set the inverters LVD to 20V which is the lowest.
When I check the current battery voltage, it's ready 22.8

Do you think this should solve it?

ask4bk:
Bro... It's cheap.
You'll get quality 5kva inverters 48v from $2k with 5 years warranty. Deye naija price is $900-1100. They are considered as cheap for who can't get strongly built ones.
Anyway, wetin I know

ask4bk:
I mentioned the use case where it's better. You purposely excluded that use case.

If I say 2010 corolla is better than 2025 tesla Y in naija bad road doesn't mean that the corolla is a better car than tesla. Tesla is better than it, but not in that use case.

ask4bk:
We Nigerians praising inverters like Growatt, SRNE etc which are cheap and high frequency shows our shallowness in good solar applications..

Growatt in the west is meant for the poor who can't afford solid inverters and for 80% users they die on them after 18 months or 2 years.

Manufacturers of inverters make it clear to users not to use high frequency inverters for heavy loads. They are not meant for devices with inductive loads like fridge, freezer, pumps, AC. They are not meant for offgrid home applications when you know you'll use the loads. High frequency inverters (without transformers) are for light equipments like lightings, TV, phones, laptop, security cams etc. That's why they are Damn cheaper than low frequency ones. There components are not meant to handle heat for long.

But for us, we will use them with AC, pump, freezer etc and since it's working (of course it'll work), we claim they are the best. But they won't last on the long run.

A low frequency felicity inverter is multiple times better than your highest brand (Deye, Growatt, Tesla) high frequency inverter for offgrid use with heavy loads.

If you are going for offgrid, spend the extra money and get yourself a low frequency transformer based inverter. They are made to withstand heat, dust, heavy loads and harsh environments.

If you need inverter for your office, farm or home, for just light, laptop, TV, printer etc. No need to go for low frequency. Go then for high frequency inverters and save cost

Dam5reey1:
Anyways. Me no get chill

Incoming to Lab. Teardown will be done.

Abeg no get chill. Na u understand the concept of this thread pass

Dam5reey1:
Test from DC shunt or AC output?

Okay, I will get that done. Just didnt want to bother as someone did 110ah already.

Dam5reey1:
Why I managed to pull 100ah from Cworth is that the cells are 120ah with 100ah Left..

Their 200ah and 300ah no reach at all.

Taico has full capacity

Darey00:
Who knows anything about this battery?

My installer says that's what he uses