₦airaland Forum

earthrealm:
So had a dying powerbank/car jumpstart.
Decided to open it up..
Who knows what type of battery those are and if replacements /repair are easy..

3ndly, anybody has >330w canadian solar panels.
Could the person gimme the dimensions, need it for something urgent

If it's those yellow portable ones that also has torchligh, it's LFP that's inside. Usually 4 pcs of thin LFP banded together, together with some robust circuitry is what provides the surge power for jumpstart. I opened up one before after it shorted and burned off when it was in use. It was used to starta car while it was raining, so I assume water seeped in to short the circuitry.

ojeysky:
Hmm... that isn't accurate, I can agree with active balancer but not for BMS. They are useful for any age of battery. While there is a chance that well matched cells (with max 0.03 difference) will usually not differ significantly during charge and discharge, the BMS also will continue to contribute to that.

The other thing is that yes you may be able to get away with the bottom voltage through your inverter but setting a safe top voltage without a BMS in place to prevent overcharge will be risky.

As to the inverter, it's an axpert clone just like felicity and if the same (or less) amount will get you a higher spec why not. You never can tell what the future brings with your consumption. If there is no extra cost for getting more value for money, one naturally should go for it.

Talking of not using BMS, here's an 18650 gone ballistic. Note that I've several modules like this working successfully without BMS for months and still going good.

But this one nearly burned down the shed.

Dam5reey:
To me it's simple, any inverter that has custom settings to set Bulk, Float, and LVD, and also disable equalization, will do the job.. you can even bypass the BMS by connecting directly to Battery terminals. Since your charger will handle Overcharge and Discharge voltage.

I plan to get this: and try out the 24V 200AH LifePO4.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_B05a7N
The seller sent me the Manual in PDF format, it will do just fine..

You may not be able to bypass the BMS. Reason is that the BMS function is not limited to only high voltage disconnect and low voltage disconnect, but it also acts as a balancer between the cell series that make up your battery bank. Rembwr the lithium cells are of 3.2v, 4.2v, or 2.5v nominal for Li-ion, LFP and LiTo respectively.

So except your inverter is so endowed that it even has balancer capabilities, then it may not be possible to ignore the BMS.

That being said, I will so much love to see an inverter with those capabilities. It's gonna make life so much easier and sweeter, mostly for DIYers of course. You only need to buy your LFP cells, the connecting wires and nuts and then you cook for yourself a sumptuous LFP meal as your pocket permits.

Dam5reey:
Simply put, in order to use LifePO4, I must change my inverter to one with custom settings, that I can change float, bulk and Low voltage cut off..
That's why I learnt from several YouTube videos, what if you don't have time to babysit, battery monitoring is not an option

I think you can just get an MPPT SCC with the necessary parameters and hook it on. You can even go for SCCs with remote monitoring capability.

That way, you still get to keep your rugged and trusted inverter.

adrusa:
I actually mean "dangerous dangerous", but not in the way many think. Lead acid and our inverters have been married from factory. Most inverters will cut off from battery around 10V. Your battery's SOC is still substantial at 10V if you have some reasonable load on. So, the arrangement of your inverter cutting off at 10V suits the Lead acid battery very well. When your inverter cuts off your lead acid battery is unlikely to be substantially at risk of destruction. The situation is different with Lithium Battery.

Your Lithium battery's voltage will not drop like that of lead acid. So, when you have used 80/90% of your Lithium battery capacity, your voltage is still well above your inverter cut off voltage. So, before you inverter cuts off at 10V, your lithium battery will be at or precariously close to dangerous levels. However, if you have a good BMS, it will cut off your battery before it gets to this dangerous level. But, some BMS have a reset button which allows you to reset your BMS and still fire your battery a little more. By this time, your battery may actually be on its deathbed.

I therefore opined that you should invest in a battery monitoring system if you are putting money on Lithium. If you have batteries that has BMS that can talk to you, another monitor may be redundant, but if your BMS is deaf and dumb, it is advisable to have a monitoring device to monitor your discharge rate, your voltage and your DoD. Lithium battery is less forgiving of abuse than lead acid batteries. That is the (potential) danger.

In addition to the battery BMS, I have the volt-out terminal of the SCC controlling the on-off switch of the inverter. With the LVD on the SCC set to 12.0v, inverter switches off at a voltage well above the LVD of the battery BMS.

Topmost11:
How much is the 12v 100ah going for?

110k, 3k shipping.

saint2ace:
Good to hear u're enjoying ur battery bank, i hope to join the gang soon even if it's just 12v 100ah. But pls can u enlighten me better on the bolded, the word dangerous just shocked me back to life. By the way what's the capacity of ur battery bank

Fret not.

What he means is "good dangerous" rather than "dangerous dangerous" or "bad dangerous"

He simply means that you get carried away by the sustained voltage over a long time despite load that you won't border to even check out the voltage again. At that point, you may miss when the voltage starts to drop on the meter.

With Lead chemistry, once you put a big load on it, the battery drops by 1volt or less. Then the volt drop with use and time is a linear relationship. However in the case of LFP(compared with Lead for capacity for voltage), if the battery was fully charged to 13.3v (for a 12v LFP battery), you won't really notice the drop in voltage and it can remain at that 13.3v for several hours before you notice any drop. That's the characteristic discharge curve of lithium.

Having said that, the BMS will do justice to ensure you don't overdischarge your battery.

@ Adrusa. I hope to take delivery of an extra 12v 100ah LFP tomorrow. I needed 120ah but 100ah was the last samurai that I was lucky to meet left. Damn, he was even sold out on 24v and 48v.

Valto:
buy an LG duo linear inverter fridge, or Samsung inverter fridge.. consumes around 70 to 90w

Na wa o. This is even better.
What are the volumes and model number?

But I meant freezers o. It seems you spoke about fridges up there.

queenfav:
I thought as much bro.We got most of them because we couldn't get what we wanted with a power power consumption.We will work on getting an energy saving fan,i have been seeing the qasa here on nairaland.Our lights are all led,max 12w for the big ones.I will stop using the chimney with inverter.You are right about the fence,it has a battery backup.The tv is a 65" led tv like you said,model no A600.Pls how do we reduce it to 80w in power saving mode? checked their manual, didn't see anything to help with that.Thanks so much oga.

Okay.

I would have uploaded a picture of the remote control of mine here so that the navigation will be easier to explain but I'm far away from home.

If yours comes with power saving options, here is how to go about it.

• Press setting button on the remote
• Select "Pictures" menu
• Scroll to "Backlighting" and select it. A horizontal gradient bar will show on the bottom of the screen. Some models may show just 3 limited options (high, medium and low)
• If yours is the horizontal gradient bar, then you use the 4- way navigation button on your remote to move the cursor to the right (increase) or the left (reduce) the backlighting. I think the default is 96%. I reduced mine to 30% and the consumption dropped to around 76 watts.

Note that the effect of reducing the backlighting is that the luminance of the screen reduces. If the ambient light in your room is not so bright, you still get excellent viewing experience. If the ambient light is highvor if the TV is situated directly opposite a window with high incident light, then you may be able to go up to 50% reduction in backlighting.

To really appreciate how the consumption drops with this option, you need to have a wattmeter plugged in line with the TV, or if your inverter has a wattmeter installed, try to appreciate the consumption changes as you make that menu adjustments on the TV

mctfopt:
Judging by this



I'll say the solar charger controller is already stretched for a 24V system as it currently has 1200w panel while below is the spec of Epever 40A MPPT:

Max.PV input power: 12V/520W,24V/1024W
Battery voltage range: 9V~32V
Max.PV open circuit voltage: 100VDC



@OP I'll suggest you get a Makeskyblue 60A Solar Charge controller capable of handling up to 2kw PV even though it has a rated maximum PV of 1440W, the idea is to add two extra PV to boost your total PV to 1800W. Also you can only use the power guzzlers (hood, etc) during peak sun and ditch 'em once the sun is down if you cannot ditch em forever.

Na wa o. 41k

This MakeSkyBkue has become foolishly expensive. They've started flexing muscle. I bought this 60amps for 20k then.

I needed to buy more CC and saw that they've started growing wings. I just went the way of their competitor straight. PowMr product. The last two 60amps I bought was for 23k each. Aside from the fact that PowMr has not been able to come up with a Bluetooth version of their CC unlike MakeSkyBlue, every other thing about their product is as good as, or possibly better than MakeSkyBlue's.

I noticed that the PowMr CC has a menu option/page that shows the error code that the CC may have. The manual teaches you how to interpret the error codes. The MakeSkyBlue does not have that such that if the CC has any issues, you're left with gambling for what the error is.

queenfav:
u are right bro.We have to minimize heavy loads on it.pls how much did u get the battery meter?

It's available on AE for around 2k5 each, I think. You will need to be an electronics DIY person to install it though cos the terminal connections are not exactly straightforward like that.

queenfav:
I am.in ph.The panels are not dirty cos it rains here and that washes off dust from it.our set up is as follows
-

2 pcs 200ah mpower battery
4 pcs 300w mono panels
prag pure sine wave 2.5kva inverter
40a epev er mppt charge controller

.
please how many more panels do u think we should add to the setup to achieve a fast charge this rainy season?Total average daily load is-

Either hisense tv of 200w or hisense fridge 150w
(we don't use both at once)
2 Fans -55w each
lights approx-48w
Electric fence charge controller-15w
Hood range/chimney (occasionally used during d day-218w
gotv -30w (not on always)

Your appliances are power guzzlers, it appears.

Aside from your fridge that may not have power saver options, I believe that your Hisense TV should have options to reduce the consumption to much less than what is on the nameplate, perhaps something as low as 80 watts or 100 watts. Except if yours is LCD, 65 inches Hisense LED TV has a nameplate consumption of around 150 watts which can be reduced to around 80 watts power saver mode.

Please change your fans to QASA DC/AC types that consume about 30 watts at maximum speeds. They cost just around 10k5 on Jumia.

Hood range will definitely consume so much (the fan inside does that because the lights are mostly LEDs). I learnt that early. Those days, I DIYed an exhaust range that uses DC power.

If you can do without using the hood range, it will be good. 218 watts load on a solar set-up from a non-essential appliance requires a review. Although if your kitchen does not have adequate ventilation, that may be a difficult decision anyway.

15 watts for an electric fence isn't bad. I wager it's a DC powered type with a back-up battery.

Are your lights LED bulbs? If not, you might consider changing to LED.

Abigai:
please bros connect me to the the guy...

Guy's on this thread. Moniker is Justcallmenuel

Number is sero hate one sis hate nine hate sis four sis one

ojeysky:
Am interested!

Abigai:
Ojesky, I live in Minna Niger State, please can u help me get a trusted person that get this 12v, 34watts, 56" ceiling fan from Lagos, I Was told the price is around N15,500 and N13,000..

I'm not sure Ojeysky is a marketer o. He's a consumer like us. I stand to be corrected o.

Justcallmenuel will do justice to sale and delivery for you.

adrusa:
I'm on my way to join the Lithium family. Expecting my delivery from JEMAG tomorrow. Thanks to Ojesky for the link.

Now they are showing their face.

Mr man, you are one of those that did panic buying of lithium battery from that guy. breeze don blow fowl nyansh open

I spoke with him to get info on his offers and 2 days later when I had the chance to forward money to him he told me he's sold out. I just deflate. I was like WTF!

Guys, people are going lithium now o. So wake up.

ojeysky:
I was actually surprised with testimonies about GT. I have known them to charge high rates so I just try to work with USD card as much as possible. You can get their USD debit card

How to go about that?

BetaTechnicians:
You made a purchase and checked how much was deducted?
They debited me at a rate of 377.

Oops. I only reckoned with the check out price that was written in Naira.

Perhaps I'll have to compare to what was deducted from my akanti.

mctfopt:
Tell them you want to buy copper bar or earth bar.

Thanks. Please like what is the price range, before I get swindled with inflated price?

30 billion for the akanti o.....

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please who can hook me up with a seller of rechargeable solar fence lights of good quality?

I am in need of 12 to 20 pieces at least.

I can be reached on 0 8 0 8 11 4444 2

Justcallmenuel should be capable.

I eventually got some stuff from the guy. Once he ships the items, guy will not let you rest from call or WhatsApp messages until you declare a receipt of the item. In-between he tries to address hiccups with transport if any comes up.

I think he is dedicated to customer relations, I just hope he keeps it up cos most of 'em start out as impressive but later fall by the wayside.

mctfopt:
If you don't get, buy flat bar (often used as earth bar) and DIY your battery links.

What do I tell the seller that I wanna buy?

mctfopt:
What's their rate?

GTB always makes sense jare. No knee jerk reflex when it comes to hiking exchange rate or even reducing same when it drops. The latter is what peeps bank on when refunds from AE and Alibaba are made. GTB usually pays back in the prevailing exchange rate.

Rate as at yesterday on AE is 365 naira.

ojeysky:
Here is the one I am eyeing: NGN 19,476.69 24%OFF | Smart 7S ~ 20S ANT Lifepo4 li-ion Lipo LTO Battery Protection Board BMS 400A 300A 100A 80A Bluetooth APP 10S 13S 14S 16S Balance
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dVaHSQ9

That's a good stuff there and not too expensive despite the Bluetooth add-on.
It's like this spambot is sleeping o because me I don't know how you got away with posting an AE url without earning a ban.

eleojo23:
They are shipping out items faster now. Stuff I ordered yesterday was shipped today. I am waiting to see if it will arrive within the next 3 weeks.

I ordered for a solar submersible about a week ago only for the yèyé seller to mail me after 3 days giving a foolish excuse of not being able to ship to my country. Then asking me to request for refund by selecting "other reasons". Me I just ignore the guy. Let AE arbitrate on their own and penalize him for not shipping on time.

Besides with this dollar-naira jagajaga increasing, I wont mind a little delay so that by the time I will be refunded, it will be at the prevailing dollar exchange rate - that means some more profit for me

Peterlove11:
I thought thermocool freezers r energy efficient....am sure that ur freezer can't consume more than 140w. Are there freezers out dir much more efficient than those thermocools considering size for size

The Thermocool freezer I intend to sell has been worked on by a technician and since then the consumption has shot up to around 180watts. I've since gotten a replacement Thermocool also, 209 litres that consumes 110 watts continuous, 520 watts surge.

Someone has advertised Hisense freezer to me that it has much more efficient and power saving inverter compressor, much better than Thermocool size for size, volume for volume - and I think I saw something like that written on the sticker of the Hisense freezer sample I saw with the vendor. I'm planning to get one soon but not before trying it out with a wattmeter.

eleojo23:
I use this DC plug (first picture). Got them from AliExpress but it's available on Jiji for as low as N500 for a pack of 10 pieces. The second picture is also an option.

@Topmost11, that second picture by eleojo23 will be perfect for you if you don't wanna go thru the hassles of soldering or twisting of wires together. It's plug-and-play.

ojeysky:
Ah I think I remember your post on this gold(something)..... Keep enjoying your Lifepo4.

I have actually adviced that particular seller to consider using BMS with Comms that provides opportunity to monitor/manage the status of each cells. It's one of the reason I will be trying out a DIY in my next Lifepo4 quest. Still gathering the indigents....but this recent USD surge may show down things

In my own case, if I can no longer stand those unusual peculiarities of his installed BMS, na to get better BMS with bells and whistles (to quote Niyiomolyunade ) and swap it in to the cells.

But let me lay hands on the battery pack fess .I think I can manage a gamble with tweaks on 130k LFP battery. Besides LFP unlike Lead acid, will still be forgiving of some maltreatment

I once came across an LFP BMS with in-built WiFi on AE. You can monitor the activity of every cell pack remotely. Will search for it again.

ojeysky:
I used GK though currently am using felicity hybrid 3024 as a stop gap.....my MPP 3024GK is faulty.

@bolded. That isn't sounding good o. Hope the issue is addressable sha.

eleojo23:
Ceaser has answered your question.

Please make sure the decoder is not connected to the battery while it's charging. I don't know if it can take up to 14.5V without damaging it. When I have a spare decider, I'll do that experiment.
To be on the safe side, you can put a voltage regulator in between.

Correct. Although I've gone as high as 13.5vdc with it. What I noticed in such instances is the decoder unit getting hotter.

Topmost11:
Correct me if i am wrong. The decoder is wired for dc operation. So the what happens is this: the followcome power cord converts ac to dc. Hence why the power cord is not an ordinary plug but a laptop charger type. That is why you were able to connect dc plug to it directly. Mine says output is 12v, 1.5a.

I don't mean connecting the DC source to the GOTV adapter o. What I mean is that the same power-in port for the adapter on the decoder is the same place you'll plug in your 12v direct DC source. In fact by the time you are through with direct DC connection of the GOTV, you won't be needing that AC power pack (adapter) that comes with it, except of course you decide to cut off the DC plug end of the adapter to use for the direct DC connection. But I would advice it's better you get your own DC plug and solder in your wires to connect to the 12vdc source.

spartacus11:
eleojo23

Pis of how u take connect ur gotv to battery biko

The GOTV decoders have external power pack (adapter). The ratings on it is usually 12vdc 1amp. So you just need to DIY a 5.5mm X 2.5mm DC plug that goes into the same input port for the adapter, then appropriately connect the positive and negative terminals to the battery. The decoder still works well on voltages as low as 9vdc.

Those old, big DSTV decoders have their power pack in-built, so it may be a bit of a challenge to have them run on DC volt direct.

There was a time the UPS in the picture powers a GOTV decoder and 14 inches portable TV/DVD for 3½ hours.