Ceaser's Posts
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ojeysky:The default setting I have on a MPPT connected to a gel battery is 14.4 bulk and 13.8 float. I have swapped about two batteries with the SCC not really minding the specs on the battery and they have both done fine. Although I later realize that the specs sheet of the batteries too indicated 14.3 and 13.8, so I'd say I was lucky. So if your battery specifies 14.4 as bulk, then I think you should follow that. But I'd still say you should also wait for the opinion of others. |
olatade:I assume your 12v panels are 150watts each meaning you likely have 4 of it. Simply connect the 12v panels in series to make 24volts and then in parallel to make a 2s2p configuration. You end up having 24v 300 watts setup rather than the 12v 600 watts you had before. |
ceaser:So in the prolonged absence of answers to the question I posted on here, I decided to take the plung anyways and experiment. And it has been a good performance for two weeks now. The sinometer took a long time coming (ordered on AliExpress and yet to arrive) and running outta patience, I DIYed some simple automation to control the freezer one-off cycle depending on the SoC of the battery (100ah 12v AGM) hooked to a 1200 watts continuous PSW inverter, 600 watts solar panel 32amp breaker between panel and SCC and 30amp PWM SCC. Toying around with some PWM SCC I have lying around, I discovered that the parameters are user optional. So I used it to replace the non-user option one that had hitherto handled the freezer. I opened up the inverter and measured the switch terminal voltage to be around 13.2v, great. Then I soldered wires to the two terminals of the switch and ran it outside the inverter case and closed back the inverter. I salvaged a 12v relay from a burnt TV surge protector, the relay has 5 terminals (2 for the solenoids and 3 for the NO (normally open) and NC (normally close) terminals on the relay. I identified the NO and the NC terminals and decided to go with the NO instead. This implies that the NO works (and therefore consumes battery energy - 50mA at 12v) only when the relay is energised which always coincides with daytime when the battery is charging. I connected wires to the DC control terminals of the SCC and put DC out settings at 24hrs output, Low voltage disconnect at 11.9v, High voltage reconnect at 14.1v and panel off voltage (boost charging voltage) at 14.2v. This ensures that the battery always gets to 14.1v full charge everyday (usually by 9am in this sunny period) before the inverter switches on. The wires from the DC control terminals are connected directly to the terminals of the relay solenoid while the two wires that run from the NO terminals connect to the terminals of the inverter switch. If peradventure the generator is switched on even before the solar panels start to have any appreciable insolation, the external charger connected to the battery charges the battery and the moment the battery voltage on the SCC reaches 14.1v, the inverter switches on. By evening by the time the battery voltage drops to 11.9v, the inverter switches off till when the external charger comes on or till the next morning. I tried a low voltage cut off of 12.2v but I discovered that the voltage of the battery drops to 12.0 when the freezer switches on, a voltage at which the inverter is supposed to switch off. Still thinking of designing some sort of few seconds delay circuitry to span the time the battery voltage recovers to above 12.2v before the freezer picks up, so I can increase the low voltage cut off to around 12.2v. This is to serve as guide for those with similar challenges in simple automation. Now I don't have to worry about the battery dying from over discharge. Life's good. |
chris81964:How d'you mean by this please? Plan to get a 120ah 12v li-po to replace 12v 100amp AGM battery that powers a 114 watts deep freezer. The startup power draw of that freezer nears 700 watts. I really hope that lithium BMS will be able to handle it. |
Penuelseun:No. This is a DIY stuff. It has a BMS and lithium SCC purchased online. |
Penuelseun:18650s with same port BMS, 3s12p, 26ah capacity, nominal 11.1v, full charge 12.4v, low voltage protection 10v. I assume the battery pack works okay cos it charges well with solar via SCC even with adequate balancing and I've had to reallocate it to a place where it functions as a direct 12v DC for 12v applications. I am away now, so I can't get pictures. |
obi4eze:Your bedside freezer shouldn't have a surge power of more than 500 Watts and a continuous of about 70 Watts at worst. But to be double sure, I suggest you seek for that info on the rating label usually stuck on the rear of the freezer. Refrigerators and the likes are best run on pure sine wave inverter. I think a 600watts pure sine inverter should do the trick comfortably. Pointstores, two posts above seems to have that on offer. |
pointstores:Indeed, your prices are attractive. ![]() |
pointstores:Thumbs up bro. You already won me over. The prices are reasonable cos the limited supplies I have have always been from AliExpress at prohibitive shipping prices. But I have a reservation about that number 8 point of yours o! 8. High level of safety, vision Lithium ion batteries catch no fire and cause no explosion in breaking experiment, with acupuncture, smash, drop I think maybe you are referring to Lithium phosphate polymer rather than Lithium iron in that statement. |
Gurus in da house. Okay, there is this 12v 1000w MSW 20amp solar hybrid inverter that started acting up. I have had this inverter on intermittent operation for the past two years, cumulative of about 3 months total. It was always used with lead acid batteries For the first time, I plugged it into a DIY 12v Li-ion battery pack and I used it with appliances for about one and a half hours before retiring to bed, at which point I switched off the inverter, the appliances still plugged in. 5 am, I heard beeps coming from the living room and got there to find the fault light of the inverter on and the fan blowing like mad! This inverter is not switched on o! Okay, I tried to switch it on and off maybe that will correct the anomaly, but it does not even output power anymore. I disconnected the battery and reconnected again, but the moment I reconnect it, the beep starts, the fault light comes on and the fan again starts blowing. The load I placed on the 1000 continuous power inverter wasn't even up to 60 Watts. The fan does not come on until about 150 Watts load. Please anyone with any idea? Thanks. |
pointstores:I have your digits saved. Will get in touch. Where are you gonna ship from anyway? And are the batteries "protected or unprotected 18650s"? |
ajl: |
pointstores:Are the quoted capacities real and not falsely overderclared? If the capacities are really true, then you may have secured for yourself patronage from me. |
bisiriyu7hamed:If it is directly from their company, then i think that makes it easy as 10 months is still likely to be within warranty period and you can claim a redress. On the alternative, are you sure you treated the batteries well, i.e do not deep discharge them and charge them appropriately at the expected charge current, charge voltage and float voltage? Did you add the two batteries to an already existing battery bank that you have been using before now? |
adotse1:I think for those requirements of yours, it's more power conservative to use a direct DC power bank for those appliances. It powers the laptop directly, your phones and tablet via USB while you utilize the laptop power bank to charge the power bank or you use the provided charger that comes with the power bank. There are sellers that have this. |
mamaafrik:Are you Egun (Dahomean)? Cos that statement you posted up there looks like the language. |
earthrealm:With that your link that you posted, you're not even worried about that bot that bans arbitrarily. I dislike that bot with passion. |
BetaTechnicians:Well, generally Modified Sine inverters always output rough, jagged RMS in their AC output while PSW inverters have fine outputs. Some Modified Wave inverters have cleaner output than others and therefore can still be used within safety limits for some equipments than those with rougher outputs. And with all modified wave inverters, while it may work with your capacitance loads or IC loads like TVs, sound systems and laptops, what you get is undesirable humming feedbacks in the circuit that manifests as lound hums from the TVs or sound system. I have experimented a Modified PWM with a table fridge once before and while it worked for a day, the compressor got unbearably hot, something I believed was due to the modified wave input from the inverter. I have placed an automatic gate opener (with AC RMS motor) on a modified wave inverters and it worked but there is this same high humming sound that the motor makes when it works. You can safely use a modified inverter with most rugged TVs and even with most decoders (since their power pack is external) but most other sensitive equipments may have shortened lifespan. |
BetaTechnicians:Finally someone looked the way of my question. I had decided to go with experimentation the way I got around a couple of hitches that remained unanswered here. At least I will be glad to relay back here the success or otherwise of the experiment. @BetaTech, I still think going with a high ampere rating than the one in the circuit will fall within safety limits. I still intend to go with the experiment when I have the opportuned time, but I still welcome more guidance as yours from others. |
Topmost11:For your first question, yes that is Li-ion, the 18650 (186mm by 50mm dimension) battery. Except if it is used, fake or with a falsely declared may rating, each costs nothing less than 1,500 naira. So I doubt the 4200mah that costs 500 naira each for that offer. Also the highest mah any quality Li-ion like NR Samsung 18650 batteries have is 3000 nah. I have yet to see an 18560 with more than 3000 mah capacity. So that battery you have there, if new, is likely fake. At worst, a used one. But you can test the authenticity of the declared capacity if you have a Li-ion charge-discharge meter or a rough estimate if you have a mini weighing scale to just estimate the weight and compare it with the expected weight for the declared capacity (you can get those reference values online) |
ceaser:
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earthrealm:The BTS does nt have battery type selector switch, at least not the 12v 1kva spec that i am familiar with, but I really can't say if other higher specs will have those sweeter features as upgrades. It should be of note that even though it has in built NEPA charger (10 amps for the 1kva, I guess) It was imperative to get an external charger. This is because as an AVR, in moments when the mains voltage drops to below 190v or thereabout, it shunts the only available power to powering the plugged in devices while starving the batteries of charging current so that at the end, the batteries basically remain at a static SoC. But when the voltage is adequate, it gives a direct supply to the plugged in gadgets while at the same time it charges the battery. However when devices are not plugged in, it shunts all available power to battery charging. |
earthrealm:the MakeSkyBlue has nothing like log records, just the harvest for that day resets at the dawn of a new day. And probably the same can be said of the PowMr since they have the same form factor. |
earthrealm:The original MakeSkyBlue (I think it is the original because of the users' reviews) have been working fine for close to a year and only recently found out about their feud with PowMr on who has the original product. While I think that there may be a fake MakeSkyBlu* imitation out there that troubles PowMr, I plan to also have a unit of that PowMr soon just to verify their claims and find out who is lying out of the two. But for now, I can't categorically verify PowMr CC performance |
zeestone99:Li-Po or Li-on 18650s? |
earthrealm:BTS inverters have 20% and 50% selectable DoD switch. They have the same form factor (the shape, the screen display and all that) as Prag, which in my opinion is overpriced. The BTS even has inbuilt AC chargers and AVS function too; features that Prag also boast of in their line up. A 1kva BTS as a cheaper alternative to Prag (spec for spec) has served faithfully for 3 years and still going strong. They are available on Konga and Jumia |
BetaTechnicians:So guys, talking of timers, can something of a sinotimer be connected between the battery and the inverter for some form of automation? I wonder if it will not amount to inverter damage if the timer effectively repeatedly connects and disconnects battery supply to the battery terminals of the inverter rather than the factory way of using the switch of the inverter, bearing in mind the fact that the AC load is already primed/switched on to start in all these scenarios. Thank you.
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Topmost11:While I may not really think of applying this your principle to a solar panel-CC-Inverter set up, I strongly feel it will come in handy in a solar water heating concept i am working on. The usual AC water heater (Aniston products), around 15 litres capacity, swap a 24v DC heater in for the factory AC heater and connect directly to 24v solar panels. There will be two units of this and I have been thinking of ways to swap the two between a single solar panel supply once one is fully heated. This idea of yours comes in quite handy in this. I feel the only thing left to think about now is how to automate the switch between the supplies to the two heaters rather than a manual changeover switch. |
solasola:Good one. But if you will have to run power socket points on DC, especially from room to room, the drop in DC voltage that occur over long distances will preclude that. You will also require thick gauge wires for those long distance connections if DC appliances that it will handle are more than ordinary DC lights, eg A 30watts led TV some 15 meters away from the power source will require some thick gauge wires, same for an 80 watts refrigerator. You will also need to ensure the voltage of your DC power thru the wires is higher than the nominal voltage of your appliances and then use a DC-DC buck to get the desired voltage at the point of termination to each outlet. For instance, what I do is have btw 16v-24v running from to the charging ports around the house and then USB wall sockets (12v-24v input range) buck convert to 5v output. Light supplies of 16-24v get supplied to CC-CV buck packs that supply 12v to light bulbs for other appliances (cctvs, alarm systems, sprinklers etc). DC, though desirable for efficiency is not as good as AC for very long distances. |
And apparently, you don't pick that call. Check your missed calls. Chat up the glo no that ends with 607. |
piuspaul:Okay |
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