₦airaland Forum

olaolu11:
The 219H is chest freezer while the other is giant fridge. How many watts will bith consume per day if i on them for 4hrs every other day?

I think you should take the pictures of the name plate (appliances have it slapped on their back) instead of the products name and model. It will have all the information you need, or at least most of it.

Dishtech:
I can but I hadly have chance.

Eeya. Too bad.
Thanks.

ojeysky:
My thermocool has a fan, light and buzzer under its lid; this ensures there is equal distributed temperature within the freezer (I love the freezer unfortunately I lost all the features in the hands of kazeem few months a ago when it developed a fault). What's the consumption of your other thermocool?

If the condenser is changed, the new one may not be a good power saver as the stock. Also these Kazeem technicians will install fan once they work on any freezer. That's added consumption.

ojeysky:
Am really interested in this freezer, I currently have a 5 years old thermocool ccf-219t which is rated 140w but recently went bad and my technician here did some guess work that made it start working but since then it's been operating on 200w and performance has even degraded.

If I may ask, does the hisense have interior lights and fan? Have you tried checking how long items remain in it before it gets defrosted?

Bro if this freezer is really what Namzy claims, then it's the bomb. Just go for it. Just make sure you go shopping armed with your wattmeter for proper confirmation.

Other factors worthy of considerations though, will include the number of hours it is able to keep foods frosted off power (a factor of insulation), cos you can't leave it working overnight. Also in the rainy season are days of poor solar harvest which ma require some shedding. In such times, good insulation of cabinet freezers come into play.

I'm not happy now cos I should have heard about this freezer 6 months ago when I secured that Thermocool.

But going forward, I think I will take more notice of some selected Hisense products in power saving capacity over Thermocool and LG products that I have grown fond of.

pointstores:
Solar generator kit now in stock

Solar generator 30watts 35,000
Solar generator with TV & fan 100,000

External charger for inverter battery 10,000
Pure sine wave 300watts 17,000
DC bulb now in stock 5watts 600naira
Solar DC fan 18inches 14,000
Rechargea clip table fan 4,000

Inquiry call 08166117634

Okay.
• What are the dimensions of the 300 watts PSW inverter?
• Is the stated 300 watts the continuous or the surge power?
• Is the cooling fan of the inverter the "always on" type or "temperature-controlled" (episodic work) type?

DJEhimond:
This thread still dey breath? It's now a year since I switched to Android - This is my second Redmi Device although I still have my Lumia at home but not using it.

For those still using their Lumia, una dey try o!

Guys still use windows phone, more for reasons of love for the ecosystem than for any other reasons. I still use Lumias 1520 and L650 (double SIM variant). I have other four Lumias down the line that is collectibles, along with few other symbian editions.

Sadly, by December I may be forced to switch to some other ecosystem as MSFT has stopped support for Windows phone. The result of this is that software developers will cease to give updates of their products on the store and may eventually remove such apps from the store.

I got a message from WhatsApp 'bout 3 weeks ago notifying me that the app will be pulled out of the store by December and may cease to work on Windows phone by early next year.

Basically I sense some conspiracy in all these. Windows phone ecosystem is inherently a tough one to toy around with in terms of users' data and information unlike android and iOS in which the only thing needed to get users' info is for the companies to compromise the standard just as android does with snooping on users on their platform.

If the huge mobile users database is to be as inclusive, valid and useful as possible, then there is need to narrow peoples' choices by doing away with OSes like windows and BB OS that is inherently unfriendly to such cause.

Just my opinion though.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Your observations are not incorrect - I am just seeking a plausible explanation - a universal answer as it were.

The things I suspect are

1) Watt meter calibration and internal operating design. Watt- meter is normally expected to read approximately same regardless of operating voltage.

2) A sort of measurement bias if you keep unplugging and plugging the watt meter to make your measurements.

It is dangerous to assume that you could use a larger load on an inverter simply because it has higher nominal voltage. A 1kw rated inverter should handle nearly 1kw whether it is 12v, 24v or 48v. The size of transformer, quality and gauge of windings and other internal components would go a long way to determine what load could be safely borne. I always advise temperature derating of inverter load at a minimum - for Asian origin inverters people usually do max 70% of the inverter rated capacity.

Okay boss.

harizonal123:
Very possible but you have to choose which cc charges each battery with the change over one at a time. You can't charge the two batteries at same time

If I were in his shoes, I will consider using AC charger to charge one set of the battery that is not connected to the solar with the AC output from the set connected to solar panels during sun hours. Then do the switch over later. That way, he won't have to use two SCCs and he won't have to divide his solar panels into two to create two different charging circuits.

The AC charger will ensure that the battery is topped up as early as possible and the charging functions of the chargers are automatically turned off once the battery is full, hence he needs not worry about overcharging his batteries with AC charger

Dishtech:
You can use ups but with some modifications like
1. Battery cable, 2. Adding Fan, Adding MOSFETs if there is space or use a higher rate ups for 1/3 load ( 1,500 VA for 500va Load). 3. Use external charger solar system for charging. Then you are good to go without any problems. But for me I can build mine from scratch.

@ Dishtech.
I feel you could help to repair a damaged 500 watts/24v PSW inverter. Shebi?

mcTrinity:
hi Ola,

you're looking at something like this... the two separate battery banks can be independently charged with inverter or solar...

please, ensure you use a quality Change over switch. I used 100A A&Bt brand ... or you look for MG brand. confirm the thickness of the current-carrying part...

Hope this helps

cheers

Just thinking. Can this set up be automated with some combination of timer relays and battery SOC sensors? Those timer relays that handle up to 40 amps would do.

Dishtech:
For I have small package like that, 2 used 40ah LiFePo4 battery (10k each), 250watt solar panel (33k) 40A pwn charge controller ordered from China (6.5k) and a homemade inverter made by my self (7k), cable (3k) TOTAL #69,500. This power my 32" Led TV, home theater, decoder, my standing fan, charge my phones, and 4 Led bulbs. Am usually home from 7pm which my appliances comes on then, till 11:30pm or 12am bed time TV is off leaving light and fan till 3 or 4am when weather is cold fan is off leaving light till day break. If am home I equally use the system when battery is charged from noon and the system is running smoothly for 6 months going. Below are my setup!

Why don't you with time, consider replacing your inverter with an inexpensive pure sine wave type in order to have more efficiency from the system? A 500 watts peak, 300 watts continuous power PSW inverter will suffice for your load requirements.

I am sure your inverter will have a high no-load current draw that will reduce the efficiency of your system.

By the way, you dey lucky with your Li-Po batteries o. That size is perfect for some waka wey I get for plan. Abeg you fit show me the way? Na beg adebeg

Penuelseun:
Pls link of the seller and if possible pictures

wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C">https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32954335647.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C

Had to make a re-order as I burnt off the one I had before while I was doing some tweaking with the gate opener. Took the delivery yesterday and fixed it same day.

As you can see, the delivery took less than two weeks.

The whole system (inverter, battery, SCC) was modular, in a plastic conduit box inset in the fence. I noticed sometime ago that the inverter occasionally cuts off the power output during the daytime. Trouble shooting revealed the over-temperature protection feature causes that. The midday sun and afternoon sun literarily shines directly on that box. Sadly the inverter fan is the "always on" type and it is not a powerful one (not powerful at all) and you can hardly hear the fan when it works. So I considered replacing the stock 24 volt fan with a spare powerful, equal dimension 12 volt fan I salvaged. I couldn't recall where I kept the CC-CV buck converters I had in storage. So I decided to go with in-line current limiting resistor approach. Hooked things up and as I was connecting the 24v battery supply, the fuse and apparently more things burnt cos the replacement of the fuse did not revive the inverter.

Now the replacement does the same over-temperature protection shyte and I am wary of even tweaking anything now.

I have tried removing the top of the inverter to leave it open for some air to circulate but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Since it's modular (for the opener alone), I prefer to leave it in its position embedded in the fence. I also don't wanna put some small roof covering to shield it from he sun in order to keep the aesthetics of the fence.

Peeps please what do you suggest?

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How much is the
12v 12ah
12v 18ah?
I've had pretty disappointing experience with 18AHs (about 5pcs so far) that I used, all bought off of Konga at different times from different sellers. Perhaps those I bough then were expired ones.

Do you have the 12v 24ah?

Namzy:
It's grid power although my axpert inverter has bypass mode but I use grid more often and allow the inverter rest

Sorry i just went through your submission again, carefully.

So if it's less 70 watts connected directly to grid, that my brother is some cool shyte. That's one heck of a great power saver freezer you got there. Even the regular DC powered freezers consume no less, capacity for capacity and are way more expensive.

Namzy:
It's grid power although my axpert inverter has bypass mode but I use grid more often and allow the inverter rest

It's still on the inverter though. What I think is "completely disconnected" from the inverter and plugged directly into the mains via the wattmeter, then note the wattage consumption. And oh, also note the instantaneous AC Voltage input to the freezer as measured by the meter also.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have an alternative hypothesis - the watts consumed by an appliance changes at different stages of work/duty cycle the appliance is in, other factors like mechanical state, maintenance e.t.c may influence the wattage e.g an electric iron may consume 1.3kw at full power when heating up the element but say 800w at a lower power setting and even less watts in standby.

What you are experiencing as different watt readings has no correlation to battery or mains voltage within a standard operating band, rather it is the device's operating efficiency and amount of work being done that drive the watts consumed - so a freezer may start up at 1000w briefly then go to 180w then after 24hours and all food frozen go to 70w. If you opened the freezer a bit, compressor may kick on again and go back to 180w.

The amps drawn by a device will vary based on the voltage of the power source so if measuring DC amps, the same wattage load may show twice the amps or more if measured at 24v source vs. 12v source.

To clarify the science, if all other factors are held constant, the watts an appliance consumes will be influenced only by the device's design/operating efficiency and the stage of work cycle the device is at. The amps draw on the other hand will vary with the operating voltage of the source being measured.

If you are measuring thesame device and getting different wattage readings, it is either different stages of the work cycle or calibration error of the measuring instrument.

I considered all the possibilities including your alternative hypothesis when I clearly noticed the trend and while it may give some acceptable though not incontrovertible explanation for the changes in watts of the freezer cabinet with different stages of refrigeration, ambient temperature, lid closing-opening cycles, it definitely won't explain the nearly half reduction in measured consumption of the sliding gate opener when removed from a 12v system to a 24v system. It equally doesn't explain that phenomenon as it occurs with the TV.

Now what I presume is this: The intrinsic consumption of any device remains the same when placed on any system (12v, 24v, 48v). However a measuring device to measure the current consumption on a 12v system may require some re-calibration when it is to be applied to a 24v system or other systems. Remember these measuring devices are not CC-CV (constant current-constant voltage) devices. And the reason isn't really far fetched. The same reason I can comfortably use a 1000 watts device on a 24v 1kw inverter without the inverter to some extent whereas the same rating of 1000 watts equipment will not be tolerated by a 12v 1kw inverter.

The 24v inverter will operate that 1kw equipment at 500 watts tolerable limit for the system while the 12v inverter will operate the same 1kw equipment at 1kw intolerable limit.

Though no experience with a 48v system yet, I believe the same extrapolation will go for a 48v system which will operate the same 1kw appliance at a much lower (maybe like 250 watts). In all instances, the wattmeter will measure somewhat different
consumption.

Another similar experience i had is with use of generator. I had a freezer connected to the gen via the wattmeter. I also had a washing machine and pumping machine plugged in at different socckets in the house but without wattmeters.

With the freezer only working, the freezer wattmeter read 227v/115 watts. When the pumping machine kicked in about 2 minutes later, wattmeter freezer readings changed to 200v/139 watts. A minute later that washing machine was used, generator output dropped to 185v and the freezer mmeasured wattage shot up to 156 watts.

In all of these scenarios, I think it's basically the Voltage-Current inverse relationship that played out and in this the law of V=IR and Power=IV applies. Remember that AC wattmeters function on the "hall effect" which involves measuring the CURRENT using electromagnetic induction in a coiled inductor around the LIVE wire to the appliance.

So the standard i believe, is to measure using 220v grid power which is almost always constant,although the "half and low" current that bedevils Nigeria's grid supply may defeat that.

I still stand corrected in all my assumptions though.

lexi28:
the sqflex is a submersible pump. though it will pump if it is submerged with inlet at least 18" below water surface. so it will work from a shallow body of water as long as conditions are met.

lift of the sqflex 2.5 is 250m max, but flow rate improves the smaller the head required. I.e the deeper the borehole the lower the flow rate and vice versa.

here's a link to purchase:
grundfos sqflex
http://www.solarshopnigeria.com/accessories/grundfos-water-pumps/grundfos-sqflex-2-5-2.html

Lorentz pump:
https:///agege/plumbing-and-water-supply/lorentz-ps2-1800-c-sj5-12-solar-submersible-pump-system-for-4-wells-6005750.html

https:///lagos-mainland/plumbing-and-water-supply/lorentz-ps2-4000-c-sj3-32-solar-submersible-pump-system-for-4-wells-12359108.html

these links should give you a head start on.your enquiries.

I have personally worked with both pumps they are good. good pump impellers, mppt function.

here's a link for literature:
https://www.lenntech.com/uploads/grundfos/95027330/Grundfos_SQF-2-5-2.pdf

https://www.lorentz.de/products-and-technology/downloads

https://partnernet.lorentz.de/files/lorentz_ps2_product-brochure_en.pdf

http://www.solar23.com/pompe_grundfos_sqflex.html


you will need 8nos of 300wp panels, storage tanks, pv pole mount, reticulation e.t.c to complete your setup.

cheers.
disclaimer: I do not represent any of the above companies. I am not sure if posting the Eauxwell reps number here is acceptable. anyways, you could forge ahead with the above info.

Thanks for these details. Much appreciation.

BetaTechnicians:
What's the model and cost of that inverter, does it also have charging capability ?

Neither solar charging nor grid charging capacity. Got it off of AliExpress. Got delivered to me in 12 days.

Namzy:
Yes but I measured the watts during grid power as the rains have been too much and we have been having stable grid power

So measuring on grid power you got 70 watts consumption? 205 litres? Abeg where person fit buy that model, Online? Showrooms? And please what is the model again? I wan sell Thermocool buy Hisense wey get more sense.

I have good experience with their 65" smart TV, so I think they have reliable products on offer.

EDITED ON AFTERTHOUGHT: By saying "grid power" do you mean that the freezer is connected DIRECTLY to the grid or thru the inverter which in turn is plugged into the grid? Cos if that is the case, the freezer is still technically plugged into your 24 volt system and the wattmeter will still give the same readings as when the inverter is on solar alone.

To be doubly sure, unplug the freezer from the inverter, then plug it directly into the mains thru the wattmeter and check the readings again.

mcTrinity:
lollzz... the "white" copper is actually Tinned Copper (attached pic) But what those Alaba bad eggs do is that they will even use copper color to coat an aluminum cable. Some fake Alaba panels comes with Aluminum cable coated with copper color.

Generally, I discovered that aluminum flex cable breaks easily. Using ordinary hand to try and twist the cable (like, try to join it with a copper cable), it'll just be breaking like what I dont know....imagine when you try to use plier....hmmmmm.
and when you scratch a copper-coated aluminum cable, you'll see the real aluminum color

Cheers

Chai! @ bolded. Serious one chance.
Thanks.

Namzy:
Kk just got home. The rated watts is 120w but I have never seen it hit that. The alarm light [ I call it danger light] is on meaning the refrigerator has not hit its optimum temp for preserving foods. In the light is off its between 67 to 72 watts. Now it's about 76 watts from watt meter

Hmmm. Your system is a 24volt system, isn't it?

ojeysky:
I think mine may also be having similar issue, when it's connected to charger and fully charged, it reads 27v but if charge source is lost, it goes down to about 25.6v

There appears to be nothing wrong with your battery. Nominal 12v battery reads around 12.7 volt on standby. Your 24v system reads 25.6 when charging source is removed divided by 2 gives 12.8v). You won't expect the battery to still retain the voltage shown while it's charging when the charging source is removed. You naturally expect the charger to have a higher voltage, which is the voltage that is shown while charging is taking place, than the nominal of the battery to enable a potential difference that pushes the current into the battery.

dragnet:
Yes there's "white" copper, if you scratch or cut through it, you'll notice the normal copper internally but the surface is actually silver-like. But one should be careful not to buy aluminium wires marketed as white copper or even aluminium wires coated with copper brown color as copper. One needs some intelligence in those markets especially alaba.

Toh. That's copper wire electroplated with Aluminium then.
Thanks.

dragnet:
Please explain the bold paragraph.

I had noticed that the watt consumption of appliances plugged into inverters usually changes as the battery voltage decreases with use. A 32" tv showing 42 watts when the battery is 13.2 volts eventually goes to around 48 watts when the battery voltage reaches around 12.1 volts. Of course I know that current-voltage inverse relationship, but I just didn't put much thought to it initially.

Then came the time to make a standalone solar set up for a sliding gate opener. I insisted on a DC powered variant but the Nigerian merchant convinced me of the better reliability and long lasting AC motor over DC motor, including the fact that the AC motor is easier to come by in case it needs replacement. I suspected sale gimmicks though but I had little choices since there is no local seller with DC variant on offer.

I tested the consumption on 230VAC national grid and it came to 180 watts working, 2 watts standby. To be sure it can be run by solar, I tested it on a 12volt 100amp battery solar set up and it gave the same watt consumption.

I then decided to make it's modular supply a 24 volt system.
* 50 watts panel x 2 connected in series
* 12v/24v 10amp PWM SCC
* 7ah SMF (ups battery) x 2 connected in series. The batteries can do 4 cycles of opening and closing before the inverter beeps low voltage.
* 350 watts 24volt PSW inverter.

When I tested the appliance in the set up with the wattmeter plugged in, it showed 100 watts consumption, a variance with the 180 watts it shows on 12volt system.

So basically while it still inherently consumes a standard stated power, although fictitiously altered/reduced by the increased voltage, it gives a somewhat misleading readout on the wattmeter. Reason I asked if your freezer is hooked onto a 12v or 24v system or standard grid AC when you tested the consumption.

Namzy:
Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

Waoh. And I though I was the luckiest with 114 watts consumption. But did you say the hisense is 100 litres capacity? Cos the Thermocool I posted is 203 litres capacity. I would have loved to do a capacity-for-capacity comparison.

durumibaka:
Thanks bros for that answer, but am corrently using 300w/24v×3 solar panel, what will be the effect since am using 20a 12v/24v solar charge controller. Thanks.

It's either you reconfigure your panels into 1s3p and make your batteries 24v system (12volt x 2 connected in series) if you are to use a PWM SCC and at least a 40amp PWM SCC.

OR

You just get an MPPT with a voc of around 100v to 150v, do your series configuration as 3s1p and hook it up to any battery configuration between 12v system or 24v system.

lexi28:
I got a toks 24" BUSH LED TV for 26k about a year back from Alaba. it consumes 20w only. I took along my wattmeter (that's standard practice now). sellers thought I was weird.

you could do the same when going to buy your next gadget.

. They'd indeed think you are weird. Don't mind them. I have a spare wattmeter in the car in case I need to stop by and window shop in transit.

These vendors should cultivate the habit of listing the power consumption and pushing it as part of their selling points to their customers. A lot of them don't even know what a wattmeter is.

Nonsense. Just selling energy hogging appliances and just giving somebody unnecessary headache.

lexi28:
thanks, I know. having issues uploading pix of battery as tested with battery meter. once it uploads it will appear on the post.

gracias

I think a "discharge test" will be more persuasive than the "voltage test" which is what your battery meter will do. Don't you think so too?

Deluxe8000:
Thanks for your response.
it read 18v. pls what 12v charge controller will you suggest? i have bought 2 charge contoller already

Your "energy saving" bulb is no longer the in vogue energy saving light bulb. I guess it's CFL bulb and it's what they call "your time don pass".

So please get a 8 watt LED bulb (that is equivalent to a 36 watts CFL) and save the remaining 18 watts for increased back up time.

Also your 32" LED TV traditionally will gulp something in the range of 70 watts at full blast. Does it have "energy saving mode" feature? If yes, activate it and see your 32" 70 watts appliance run at 30 watts. You get to save 40 watts. Add that to the 18 watts saved with the use of LED bulbs and you have 58 watts gold.

That's just appliance sizing alone. It's not what may be primarily responsible for the early death of the solar set up. Other experienced readers will give expert opinions on that.

olaolu11:
I have been informed that my cable is ready for collection. Though I had to settle for 6mm because the 10mm is no longer available. Will give feedback by tomorrow when I do the connection. The man says it is white copper(hmnn)

White copper ke?! I have not heard copper being white unless if electroplated with white metal o, in which case the wire inside is still copper and retains the Cu colour. Copper has its peculiar colour and taste (when you suffer from metronidazole overdose, you get the sensation of copper taste on your tongue).

The gurus in the house can give more insights.

lexi28:
that's always the basic & best idea. the grundfos sqflex 2.5 does that pretty well. it takes ac/DC voltages up to 300v ac/DC. works with any kind of panels as long as minimum volt of 120v is achieved.

idea is to pump water while the sun shines and store in tanks, steel or plastic for use later or immediately. its always cheaper to store water than to add batteries to enable pumping at odd hours of the day.

cheers

Is this pump submersible or surface? What is the "lift" like (in meters)?

Any purchase link or url?

harizonal123:
I just placed my order this morning.

Nice.

Please do keep in mind to give your user experiences on this thread.